Messages

on my 400 ford (78 ),  do i need to hook up a wire to the side of the carb? what purpose is this? i have a 2 barrel carb on it. if i need to hook this up, is this a constant 12v or?

forgive my stupidity, thanks

robert

gpster

no offense taken, i just (last weekend) removed the wiring harness for the engine compartment, and rewired it from scratch, moving the selenoid under the cab, the ignition control module, in the right kick panel, and the coil to the left lower fender well as well as adding a new one wire altenator, and getting rid of the external voltage regulator. was attempting to "neaten up the under hood apperance.

i like the looks of the clean up job, so far.   now to get the hood done....

most people run a heavy cable from the battery to the starter seleniod, then run a wire to the ammeter and the attenator... using the "battery side" of the selenoid as a "junction post"

robert

just did this....

wire from altenator goes to battery +
wire from ammeter goes to battery +
wire from other side of ammeter goes to key.

if turning on accys (lights) with motor off and guage shows a charge, reverse the 2 wires on ammeter.

robert

Cal, I posted on the Ford Barn when I posted here.  Nothing heard back from there though.  Thanks for the tips on California and Texas.  If those folks are willing to ship that may be what I'll have to do.  Keep those tips a comin.  Thanks.

Lee

lee,
i looked for quite a while.... gave up and built my own.... they are really quite easy...

robert

Last sunday I stopped by Harbor Freight to check out the vehicle dollies they had on sale. $80.00 for four dollies rated at 1000lbs each. I knew I couldn't make them for that , so I bought a set. I assembled them and oiled them up. Today I set the 70 Challenger on them to slide it out of harms way. I could not budge the car. I rotated each caster so all sixteen were aimed in the direction I was pushing, still couldn't budge it. I even tried a long 2X4 as a lever. I gave up, took the car off the dollies and shoved it out of the way, wasn't all that hard to move. Tomorrow I'm going back to HF and get a refund. I'd sure like to find a good set of dollies for a reasonable price. OK, now I'll stop bitcxen.
         Jbird

i bought a set.... and now use 14" wheels layed on there sides, and set a  motor in them.... great motor dollys....

Great looking truck AV8, thank you for the info on the bars you got...

Probablly end up doin the same

ok... so i have been working on the 1950 f1 panel for quite a while, and like the look of the stainless bars for the grill...  looked at quite a few vendors, and nobody had them in stock, they were backordered at  d.carpinter, macs, b drakes, and my local shop wescotts, all were real close in pricing, so i went with  Wescotts ( cuz i wanted to support the local shop, and save a few bucks on shipping), i ordered on july 15th, was told it would be a couple weeks.... fast forword to 8/17, the brooks truck show is next weekend, still no parts... wescotts says they are still on backorder, i frantically call other sources, and everyone else is still backordered, so i just repeat several times... it is just not meant to be.

So after the show (first part of september) checked in with wescotts, assured them that yep i still want them.... they called on 10/13 and said they should be here by mid november, so cool they will get here.

10/20/2004, wescotts calls me and the part is here, so i ask to ups them to me ( acroos town), i get them this morning and i am disapointed..


1. Package says Dales manufacturing in OKC, OK

2. Parts are stamped with MADE IN TWAIN ROC

3. The retainer clips sent with the "kit" are made by Dales

4. the slot on the back of the stainless steel grill bars ( for the clips to slide in) are 1 3/16", the clips are 3/4" x 2 1/2".


so i called wescotts and they verified the clips, are "supposed " to fit in the groove, so they said I can either return them, or Modify the clips to fit.

so my gripe is you pay $189.00 for 5 pieces of stainless steel, wait 3.5 months and they are not manufactured to the full specs. What do i do.... modify them or send them back?? if i send them back, where do i find some quality parts?

Or am I just being to ANAL RETENTIVE here?      :?:  :?:

Robert

I saw the designer/builder  at the Brooks, Oregon Truck show this year, he is a engineer, and in  the late 60's early 70's, he got fed up with truck manufactures who did not care about fuel economy, so he designed and built the first "Paymaster", he had his own trucking company, and used the trucks in his own fleet. he had 2 trucks at the show.

Robert

got a 4.6 crown vic 1995, and the motor is seized up... anyways, trying to pull the motor, and how do you remove the 4 nuts holding the torque convertor to the flywheel? I cant spin the motor to get to them.... so how do i seperate the motor and tranny??

Robert

flushed the tranny   , New filter, drained the convertor, ran 24 quarts thru the tranny, it still slips. when the pan was off, there was a lot of naterail on the magnet, and the pan had a black "slit " apperance to it.
I ended up replacing the tranny.

Robert

one of my drivers.... ok ex driver, ( he quit)

put brake fluid in the tranny, and drove the car... the transmission slips.

I did not realize he had put brake fluid in it,   till i  had already pulled it out, and replaced the tranny. I noticed the strong odor of the fluid, (not a burnt smell, more of a solvent odor), but never put the puzzle together, untill i noticed the 2 empty brake fluid containers in the trunk.

THERE IS A REASON THAT MY DRIVERS ARE ONLY ALLOWED TO CHANGE FLAT TIRES.

with all that said, is the tranny toast?

OBTW this is in a 95 crown vic  aode, the tranny had 22k on it since the rebuild.

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perhaps a "pusher fan" mounted in front of the radiator? mid 80s caddy had a nice unit, about 12" in diameter....

Robert