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Just wondering if these tailights?  They are imprinted with "Made in Germany" but I can't find anything that looks familiar.

Thanks in advance!

Last year I found the plug in cylinder # 6 fouled, so I cleaned it up and I started running much better.  Then I started to notice that I was losing coolant, and was begining to overheat at idle.  Additionally, I started blowing alot of white smoke out of the right side exhaust once the car is warmed up.  I do not have water in my oil, or oil in my water,.  I am guessing that I either have a leaking gasket, or a crack in the head around the # 6 cylinder combustion chamber causing coolant to leak into the compression chamber, but not into the bottom of the engine.  Based on everyones experience here, am I on the right track?  Obviously I'm pulling the right cylinder head; does that sound more like a gasket, or a cracked head, and is there anything else that I might be overlooking as a cause.

Thanks!

I was having a dual problem with my cooling system.  It was running cool when I was driving it (never above 120) but when I stopped @ a light etc, it quickly went up to 225+.  I replaced the thermostat, that solved the too cool problem, but it would still overheat in idle.  Coolant level is OK and reasonably fresh (1 year).  Then last night I noticed that my headlights dimmed @ idle too.  Acting on a hunch, I ran the car this morning until warmed up, let it overheat, then stepped on the gas while in park, and the temp started to drop again.  Over the winter, I would occasionally hook up a basic battery charger set to the lowest setting (5 amps) and "top-up" the battery, but one time I forgot and left it for a few days.  My voltmeter drops to below 12 volts in idle and I'm beginning to wonder if I screwed up the battery by leaving it on the charger too long.  It's a Opitma red-top by the way.  Would this make sense?  I would rather not buy another battery if not necessary, but I can't think of anything else.  I'm going to clean the rad as a "hail mary", but it would appear that the rad isn't getting enough airflow @ idle only, and this was never a problem in the past.  I certainly can't leave it like this, because when the temp outside hits 90 and I have the A/C running, the problem will only get worst.  Up till now, the only time I start to go above 200, is in the middle of summer, 90 degrees, A/C on stuck in heavy traffic.  Like I said, if it's doing it now in 70 degree weather, no A/C, I'm going to have big problems later on.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Rob

I have little hair left from pulling it out, I'm stumped
Since replacing my front brake set-up this winter, I have had no rear brakes....

My set up is as follows

1" bore corvette style master cylinder-7" power booster, all under the floor.

From the master cylinder to the rear, I have a 10 lb residual valve (wildwood) to OEM proportioning (combination) valve from an '87 S10 and then on to my rear (drums, '85 pontiac Bonneville)

For some reason, since I've been trying to bleed the rears, I've lost pressure to the rear brakes, the fluid has just started to "dribble out" where as before is squirted out across the room.  This has started since I changed from the adjustable prop. valve in the rear to the OEM style.  What I have noticed is that the rear chamber of the master cylinder has air bubbles coming out of the hole in the floor when I press the pedal with the M/S cover off.  I also remember reading here some time ago that the Wildwood residual valves were problem prone. Could either of these situations be the problem.  I'm really getting tired of spending $$ and not getting the problem fixed!

For what it's worth, the front set-up is from ECI, 78-81 Camaro calipers with rear rotors, with a 2 lb residual valve.  I wasn't getting huge front brakes when I first tried this set-up out, but the folks @ ECI suggested it might be the adjustable prop valve I was using, which is why I replaced it in the rear.

I'm REALLY stumped and frustrated, and would be forever grateful if someone has an answer.

Thanks

May be a stupid question, but are the OEM (GM) combination/proportioning valves sensitive to their position.  In other words, do they have to be "right-side-up?  I'm installing one on my '37 after a ton of problems with my adjustable unit, but it would fit better and it would be easier to keep the lines tucked up against the framerails if I turned the valve on it's "side"

Thanks

Does anyone have any info on the changes that have to be make to a 40 Ford frame to accept a 700r4 tranny?  I know that Chassis Engineering makes an such a piece that involves cutting the X member and welding in a new piece, but If anyone one has pictures and measurments that they could share I'd really appreciate it

Thanks

Here's one you have probably not seen before...

I'm getting ready to go to K'Zoo.  Being the paranoid individual I am, I was installing wheel locks to prevent my wheels from walking away @ night.
Somehow I didn't notice that my torque wrench was adjusted WAY up, and I managed to strip the internal "Key to the lock and now they won't come off.
The locks are the type with the unique internal configuration with a matching "key".  If it was the key that stripped, I could just get another one sent from the manufacturer, but it's the lug nut itself.  I'm thinking I may need to find a REALLY good TIG welder to spot weld the key onto the lug so I can turn it off, but I don't want to ruin my aluminum wheels.

Any thoughts?

It's taken over a year, but the 37 is home and painted!!!  Hopefully the weather will co-operate and I can finish assembly, get the interior done and be on the road in the spring[/img]