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What should I look for on a Chevy crate motor to identify the size and build configuration of the engine? I know there won't be the VIN normally found on the passenger side deck pad.
The engine is in a car so the rear of the engine behind the head might be hard to see.

Thanks

dave

I had originally Hijacked River1s post and thought it best to start another.

In my earlier post on Jim's thread (Sorry about that Jim) I had voiced my concern about some "Timken" brand bearings I had purchased for my Ford 9 inch diff.
Enjenjo had responded that I should look for the Timken etching on the race, well there is only the word China on the seals and the only place Timken shows up is on the box. That is what I get for buying something from A _ _ _ _  Zone. NAPA was not able to get the Timken or any other major US name and the counter man said his bearings were probably from Japan so I went to A Zone, I will return the Timken Chinese bearings tomorrow and have NAPA order what they can get and see what shows up.
I really prefer going to the traditional auto parts stores because they know how to leave the computer and go to the catalogs and will try to find any thing I need.
I am tired of the young snots that were born after my newest set of wheels were built try to tell me what I need in auto parts. Most of them can barely read and fewer can make change even with the help of the cash register, Lord only knows what would happen if the power went down.
I will let you know what bearings I end up with.

Sorry about the soap box, but man the inferior parts get old.

dave

I have a 47 Ford long door coupe that has suffered a poor frame clip job. It has a 78 Camaro clip that was mounted 2 inches too far forward so that the car now has a 116 inch wheelbase. Stock is 114 inches and now the front wheels are not centered in the fender opening and also it appears as if the front track is a little too wide. It took me a while to figure what about the car looked wrong.
I want to put a stock frame under the car and start all over.
I have had 2 other 47 long doors but that was over 40 years ago so I am relearning the car. When I had my other 47s the process was more simple, (hop up the flathead, pull the flathead put in an Olds, pull the Olds and put in the Hemi, then start collecting transmission parts)

My questions for the great knowledge base here:

1. Will the frame from other 46-48 Fords fit without modification (2 door sedan, short door coupe, 4 door sedan and ragtop)?
2. Opinions of M II IFS conversions, who does it right who does it wrong?
3. What about a dropped axel for this car? Who is best?
4. What about raised crossmembers?
5. Suggestions for a good rear, the engine will be a mild 350 of about 275 hp and a turbo 350 or 700R4,  I will be running 15 inch wheels front and rear.

I know this is a lot of questions to answer and I do appreciate any help you can offer.
I will be glad to send you my email address to your PM if you wish.

Thanks to all
dave

48 Ford please check your PM

Thank you
dave

Hello, This question has probably been answered a hunnert times but I missed all of them.

What is your experience with PAW? I am most concerned with the amount of over bore and the tolerance used to fit the forged pistons in their block kits. Basically how good is their attention to detail?
I have looked at the available crate motors and decided to build my own, a chev 350 somewhere in the 325-350 hp range.
I have all the needed measuring tools for the build.
My main focus is dependable street power.

I would use local machine shops but they all have a reputation of over priced mediocre work. The largest in the area is a rebuilder that specializes in rebuilds using blister pack parts from Brazil.

This engine will be put in a 47 Ford with a  700 R4 and will be street driven only.

Thanks for your help and opinions.

dave