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Finally finished welding the floor in my 40 and sealed the seams with Duraglass. Thinking about rolling on some bed liner before I put down some Dynamat.

Any pros/cons or brands that works best?

Had the exhaust reworked last week so I could add a Progressive rear sway bar. Made a big difference in the handling. Added rear QA1 single adjustable shocks last year and it helped a little but the rear sway bar did the trick. One of the other guys with a 40 recommended it, don't remember who it was but I appreciate the tip. Wish I would have added it a long time ago.

I have Wilwood caliper and ~11 in rotors on the front of mu 40 Tudor with MII suspension. The ones on there now look like Wilwood no. 120-5343  calipers. The brake line comes out at the bottom and if I turn the wheel to far the brake line fitting hits the strut rod. Turn to far and it shears the fitting off.
I contacted Wilwood and they have a set, GM D52 Dual Piston Caliper no. 120-10936, with the brake line fitting comes out the center of the caliper body on the rear. Plenty of clearance then, but.... they are about $178 Wilwood or $164 Summit dollars each, ouch.
Any one know of a GM caliper with the fitting that would clear the strut that didn't cost an arm and a leg each?

My 40 Tudor with 87 IROC 5.0 TPI would not start the other day. Check.. no spark. 12 V  to coil and distributor control module.  Pulled cap, contacts on pickup coil was green. No resistance on ohm meter. Got new pickup coil, Jeg's Excel module and coil. Set timing @ 6 deg with brown wire disconnected.
It runs but * when accelerating and misses above idle. Code 33 at ALDL. No vacuum leaks to be found.
This has been converted from a MAF to a MAP sensor when I built it over 5 years ago.
Ran fine before pickup coil went out.

Any suggestions?

Just put in a rebuilt T-Bird power rack, GM pump with remote res. I bought at Good-Guys PPG last year in my 40. Turns hard to right when I'm sitting still. Turns OK left and both ways OK when moving.
Turned steering wheel L/R to centered rack, install rack, set toe in to 1/8, didn't re-set caster or camber.
Any suggestions?

Had a set of Yokohama tires put on my 08 Nitro last fall and now I get a vibration intermittently. I work with an x-mopar engineer and he had the same problem with a set he had. He clams when the belt end line up in sinc you get a vibration until you turn and get the belt end out of sinc. It feels like hot spots in the rotors but I can feel it even without braking but much worse when braking.

Anyone had this problem?

Went to a small town car show this summer that's was close to home. We parked the car and in an open spot close to a corner and since the sun was blaring down on the side of the street we parked on, we set up our chairs on the opposite side in the shade. We where sittin behind a nice coupe, about a 36 if I remember correctly. Lots of people looking at all of the cars when this guy walks up to us and said, "Nice car, I'm glad you didn't BASTERDIZE it with a Chevy motor." To that I replied, "O this isn't my car, it is nice though," the coupe, "my car is parked across the street, the 40 Ford with the Chevy engine in it." The guy just raised one eyebrow and walked on.  I laughed it off at first but the more I thought about it the madder I got. I realize everyone is entitled to their own opinion but I put in a hell of a lot of time and a bundle of money in this project. It's like my parents used to tell me when I was a kid, if you don't have something nice to say keep your opinions to yourself.  I've thought of a few humorous whips for the next time this happens. Still ticks me off when I think about it. Glad I got that off my chest, I feel a little better know, until the next time.

Anyone know a descent transmission shop in Lexington, Ky.
I'm down here working a contract job and my 97 Yukon trans started to slip. I think its got a 4L60E in it.
I've been looking to replace it anyway.
Anyone have an opinion on Chevy HHR or Nirto RT?
To bad they don't make a HHR with a TPI or a ZZ4.

Thanks

I dropped a tooth off the cluster gear on my Non World Class T5 5 speed going to the Springfield swap meet last Friday. Wasn't sure I was going to get it back to Columbus. Makes noise in every gear except 4, 1 to 1.
Anyone know where I can get a Word Class T5 with GM 26 spline input, that wont cost me an arm and a leg? It needs to be out of an F body with V8, 1988 to 1993 I think.

87 IROC TPI I installed in my 40 Tudor started idling at 2k last week. No codes, no pending codes, numbers on analyzer within specs.
Cold start, fast idle for a couple of seconds then it idles down to ~ 700 rpm. Let it worm up shut if off and restart it goes to 2K. No vacuum leaks, except Idle Air Control fast idle passage. You can hear fast idle vacuum from throttle body just like cold start.
TPS set to 0.58v.
Jump ALDL to extend IAC pental, disconnect plug and remove IAC valve, measures 1" shoulder to end of pental, (should be ~1 1/8 to 1 1/4").
I have 5v to Coolant Temp Sensor.
Replaced old 1227730 ECM with rebuilt NAPA unit, no change.
IAC, TPS, CTS new this spring.
As I said no codes, numbers within specs on analyzer.
Double checked all grounds.
Something is telling the IAC to retract. It's driving me crazier than I already am, if possible.
Anyone got any suggestion?
I'm loosing cruising time, only so much allotted for summer in Columbus.

I need a couple of power window kits for the door glass on my 40 Tudor.
Anyone have anything to say, good or bad, on some of the less expensive universal kits such as Its-A-Snap or others.
Anyone tried the cable type or are the direct drives better?
I've had the door glass cut for no vent windows like a 39.
I have the glass but its to hard holding them up while driving, especially the passengers side.

Also a guy I work with just bought a 41 Willies with a MII suspension and is looking for a set of tubular A-arms that's 1" shorter for more tire clearance.
I know, I know, I keep telling him to offset the rims so he doesn't screw up the geometry but he's determined to run shorter a-arms.
Heidts & Fatmans as 5/8" shorter and they're pretty pricey.
Any suggestions?

Anyone have any recommendations on a gas heater for my 2 car garage? It gets pretty cold in Ohio in the winter.
My air tools keep freezing up.
I was looking on the web at infrared heaters but I guess it needs to be vented in order to keep the moisture down.
Any preferences?

Finely got my 40 drivable a couple of weeks ago. It's not anywhere close to being finished but it will get down the road.
Been working overtime on it evenings after work and weekends. A friend had a nice shop he was leasing to build his 37 Chevy and my 40 Ford. He didn't renew the lease at the end of September so it was ether work on it almost every night or trailer it back home.
Thought I could have it driveable for Goodguys this summer in Columbus but that was dreaming, there's always next year.
Anyway it runs pretty good.
87 Iroc 5L TPI with 5 speed, MII and 9".
Street & Performance burned a chip for me to switch from a MAF to a MAP sensor.
I have an inline fuel pump for now but I plan on putting one in tank this winter. Have to key it several times to get the pressure up to start.
Here's a few pictures.

I am on my second set of NAPA premium ceramic brake pads and slotted rotors on my 97 Yukon.
The first set of rotors developed hot spots and warped after a couple of thousand miles. I put premium ceramic pads on at same time. Calipers, slides etc. in good shape. Rear brakes OK.

Replaced the first set with loaded calipers with ceramic pads (UP 4422138CMX) and new set of slotted rotors (UP PR85962L). 2k miles later same problems, hot spots and warped rotors. And yes I put the slotted rotors on the correct side.

We've have another customers 96 Chevy Tahue in with the same problem and a couple other shops told NAPA that they are having the same problem with similar models.
NAPA salesman brought in NAPA brake tech rep in and he blames the GM anti lock brake system on these specific models.
I think he is full of, well you know.
Anyone else had problems with NAPA ceramic pads or these model trucks and if so what is the fix?
Anyone recommend any other brand of other ceramic pads.
I hate to go back to regular dirty pads.
I'm getting ready to order another set of performance slotted rotors; NAPA is paying for them again but I'm getting a little tired of replacing rotors every 2000 mi. Plus it never fails, every time I get my truck up on the rack we get busy.

Here's a picture of the 37 Chevy I helped a friend build last summer.
Got it running for 05 Columbus Good-Guys.
Made it on the first day but couldn't keep it running; bad set of heads sucked air bigtime.
A new set of heads and it runs very good. 350/350
We still need to do more bodywork and interior but its coming.
I need to get my 40 Tudor on the road before we finish the 37.

We have customers 57 Chevy in for work.
We're getting a 700 R4 trans built for it but our transmission man is have a hard time finding a valve body.
He needs a 1988 auxiliary valve body out of a Z28, Corvette or police interceptor transmission.
Anybody know where we can pick up a valve body:?:
40_Tudor

I've been helping a friend with his 37 Chevy 4Dr from stock to streetrod, setting up IFS, 350 sb etc.  We've got the frame/engine pretty much finished. We have the body on a rolling frame and we are replacing rusty panels and floor sections.
I've almost got him convinced we should chop the top, you know while where at it. My thinking is we can practice on his 37 then chop my 40 Ford Tudor. I know neither body style will be as easy as an earlier straight post top design.
Has anyone chopped one of these and do you have any suggestions and or photos.

Dear Friends,

I lost my best friend, my lover, my wife on Saturday Christmas Day.
My wife Jackie passed away Saturday after a very long battle with Emphysema.
This was Jackie's favorite time of year. She loved decorating for Christmas and having friends and family over for her Christmas Eve party. We often had as many as 50 people over. A tradition she started when we first got married 28 years ago.
Her best friend and her husband where visiting us on Saturday. I was sitting next to Jackie in her hospital bed that Hospice had set up for her in our living room a year ago. I had my arm around her when I felt her life slip away. It just about ripped my hart out.
It's been a long and difficult year trying to comfort her as best I could. She would have done the same for me, but she would have done a much better job of it.
I will miss going to Lake Erie fishing with her and so many other things.
She put up with my streetrod rod parts scattered all over the garage and even held a wrench for me once in a while.

She was my North, my South, my East and West,
My working week and my Sunday rest.

This is a big empty house without her.

Viewing is Tuesday from 2-4 and 6-8. Funeral services are Wednesday at 1pm at Schoedinger Funeral Home at 3030 W. Broad St., Columbus, Oh.
Donations can be made in her name to Riverside Hospice in Columbus.

Joe

Looking for a program to replace the old Card File, for the shop I work at, to track customer information, print labels for customer mailings etc. The bosses son has bought out the shop from his dad and is updating some long over due equipment and software. We have Mitchell's On Demand 5 but not the management part.
Has anyone used this or can recommend any others?
I haven't been logging on for a while because my wife is seriously ill and it's been a full time job taking care of her.

Thanks in advance.

Has anyone used OBDII software for a laptop to check out systems?
I would like to get the software and cables for this.
Any recommendations?

I have a 5-digit number on the driver's side of the firewall on my 40 Ford. I cant find any references to this number anywhere and was wondering what the heck its for, body style or what. I have another frame under it since the original was pretty bad shape so I cant check it against the old serial number. Does any one have the answer? The number is 42612.

Getting a friends SBC 350 in his 37 Chevy ready to start after rebuild the other day. He had an old starter and flex plate on the shelf, both in good shape, so we stuck them in and hooked it up to a battery and cranked it. It turns the engine over but made a lot of noise. Picked up a rebuilt starter from a reputable rebuilder and we get the same noise. The engine casting numbers is for a mid 60 to late 70 350 four bolt. Thinking we had the wrong starter, staggered bolt pattern, I took my 87 305 starter over, straight bolt pattern, over to try. The straight bolt pattern starter won't bolt up, mounts too lose to flexplate.
The flex plate is a 14" 168 tooth. I've shimmed the starter from 1/32 to about ¼ but still too noisy.  Cranks pretty had with plugs in with this starter. We can turn it over by hand so not sure if its starter, flexplate or something else?
Has anybody had the same problem, and how did you solve it?

A friend needs a sandblaster to blast his 37 chevy floors and a few other rusty patches. I have a cheep 80lb pressure blaster from Harbor Freight but it doesn't do a very good job and it runs out of sand pretty fast. He checked on have the body blasted but the local company wants a little over $500 to do the job. We thought why not spend that money on a good blaster a little bigger than the one I have so we can use it later on other projects.
Anybody have any suggestions on brands of sandblasters that do a good job?
Thanks.

I was surfing around the other day looking for something to spray on, or have sprayed on, my new floor in my 40 for insulation, sound suppression and to limit rust. I was thinking maybe Ryno or one of the others and ran across a product called LINE-X. Supposed to be a two part spray on liner like Ryno but stronger. It's used on truck beds, floors, foundations and lots of other stuff.
Has anyone used this on a streetrod or truck bed and does it hold up like its advertised?

Well we'll try this one more time.
I posted this message a little while ago but it must be stuck in syberspace. Must be the new software, couldn't be me.  

FYI _ If anyone is interested, there's a swapmeet at Springfield Ohio fairgrounds this weekend, Feb 14 & 15.
I usually get a flyer but a friend saw the listing in the paper.
I tried to look it up but their websight is down. In other word double-check this info before driving 200 miles.

FYI _ If anyone is interested, there's a swapmeet at Springfield Ohio fairgrounds this weekend, Feb 14 & 15.
I usually get a flyer but a friend saw the listing in the paper.
I tried to look it up but their websight is down. In other word double-check this info before driving 200 miles.