Topics

What do you guys normally use to hold the carpet in place?
It has to be removable to get to the master cylinder.

On another note, what is the general feeling of Kanter Auto Parts?

I'm putting a Harrison 6 volt in our '49 Dodge that has the original 6volt positive ground system.
Question is, which lead goes to power and which lead goes to ground?

Question.
What's your best guess of how many revolutions a fuel dragster engine turns per run, counting burn outs?

Need some advice.
My Dakota has the classic warped disc brake feel, pulsing as I stop, except i can't feel it thru the pedal or steering wheel. Only thru the seat.
Took it to a Tire Shop and they told me it is the front rotors.
They tested by driving the truck and stopping with the emergency brake which, of course, uses the same brakes as the rear wheels. Said there was no * then.
The part I have trouble with is, they said those were throw away discs, can't turn them.
Is it the general consensus that this is true?
Hate to spring for new rotors if it is not needed.

Because the '49 Dodge I bought came from sunny southern California, it doesn't have a heater. I'm wondering what the possibilities are of at least putting in a decent heater without changing to 12 volts.
If I have to change to 12 volts, anyone have an opinion about how well the starter will live?

Well, I bought the '49 Dodge I was looking at. And now I'll need to get it shipped. I live in Missouri and the car is in the LA area.
I'm looking at 2 shippers and wonder if anyone on here has any experience with either of them.
They are United Road and Express Auto Transport.
If anyone has any recommendations I would like to here them.

Hi;
I'm looking at a '49 Dodge that has the Fluid Drive transmission.
Is anyone here familiar with them.
Are they nothing more than a standard transmission with a clutch that can slip when you come to a stop?

Hi;
This may be a question no one has any interest, but I'll ask it anyway.
Does anyone here on the RRT pay any attention to the "collector " cars on Ebay.
Having rebuilt a couple of older cars, I know it is not something done cheaply, but the big disparity between the reserves and the price people are willing to bid simply amazes me.
I also realize most people are not in a position to just run over and look a the cars because most end up being 500 to a 1000 miles away, so they are reluctant to bid the asking price.
So, am I missing something.
I'm not looking to sell anything, it's just a time killer for me.

 :?:  :?:  :?:

I would like to make all of the electrical connections from my instrument panel to go thru one multi pin connector.
Does anyone have ideas of where to buy something like that.
To also have spares, it needs to have about 12-15 pins.

I mentioned on a post the other day that I had sold my cars and was building an airplane.
There was some response that they were interested, so here is probably more info than you want.

I had a '41 Chevy, that I bought as a restored stock '41, took most of it apart and rodded it.  350 roller SBC, 700R-4, '88 Caprice Rear axle, MII front suspension, and Vintage air.
While I was changing it, I got a '65 Buick Skylark and did a cosmetic restoration on it.  Paint, interior, windows gaskets, and wheels. Wish I had it back.

My son and I also Did a restoration on a 1969 Bonanza during this time and after he moved out of state( I was probably working him to hard) I did a cosmetic restoration on a 1969 Cessna 150

For a long time I have been interested in Experimental Airplanes and have owned 3 over the years. Finally worked up the nerve to build one.
So to free up money, I sold the cars.
The Rans S-16 Shekari had always looked good to me, but was out of production, so I looked for someone that had started one and quit building. After looking for about 6 Months I found a gentleman East of San Francisco that had quit building about 3 years ago and it was just setting in a hanger. We talked back and forth for about 2 months and finally agreed on a price.
I gathered up every tool I could think of that we would need. Loaded the truck and trailer and headed west.  Picked up our son in Santa Fe(yeah, he didn't get off that easy) and went to Byron, CA.
Took us parts of 3 days to take it apart to and load.
I was 8 days gone and one wore out old dog when I got home. 70 years old and counting
The plane is a 2 place, low wing, fixed gear, fixed prop. It will be powered by a Continental I0-240, 125 HP

I have a paint question, and I realize it's a bit off topic, but the people on here have a wide range of experience, so.
I have an experimental airplane that is getting close to time to paint.
Is there anything out there that is comparable to Imron for less money?

As usual I'll welcome any and all opinions and criticisms

Harry

Has anyone on here installed their own carpet.  My floor is modified so I don't think one made for my car will fit.
What I don't understand is how you mold the carpet over the transmission hump and the driveshaft tunnel.
Is there a special kind of carpet that can be molded? : : :?

I had a conversation with a neighbor of mine this evening and part of it was about gasket sealers.
He strongly touted ane called AMABOND and I had never heard of it before. His implication was that any one  who used it wouldn't use anything else.
Does anyone here know anything about it? :?:  :?:  :?:

Frank I'm trying to reuse the hose I had made up for my other P/S rack, but I can't find a ferrule for the hose end.
The local Napa store has changed the type of hose and fittings they use so they no longer stock parts like I have.

Can you tell me if this is a Weatherhead hose end?
The ferrule was a double angle ferrule, it had an angle on each end

Thanks

The Mustang power steering rack in my '41 Chevy has leaked almost from day one and I finally got tired of it leaking on the hanger floor. So, I took advantage of the Auto-Zone lifetime warranty and got a replacement.

It seems there are 2 different racks for the '79 Mustang, a Ford rack and a TRW rack.  The Ford rack, which is what I had is made in two pieces, one part steel and one part aluminum and it leaked where the 2 pieces bolted together.
The TRW rack is one piece all aluminum, so I figured it would be less likely to leak, plus it would clear the MII crossmember better.
So I talked them into giving me that one, but now I have to make new P/S hoses.
I have a '95 S-10 pump, so originally I cut ends from a Ford hose and a GM hose and had a hydraulic hose made to fit. I never did like the way it looked plus it really wasn't  very flexible. So now I would like to use a regular P/S hose for the flex part and silver solder the correct  ends with some hand crafted (home made) ferrules.

Does this sound like a dumb idea?
Aren't there some Ford products that used a Saginaw pump?

I'll appreciate any advice

Tonto

My brother in law has a stock '29 Model A that we need to rebuild the transmission in. Where is the best place to buy parts for it?

Finally getting around to putting an "E" brake on my "41 Chevrolet, and of course the cable lengths are wrong.  What's an acceptable method of  splicing the cables?
As always, appreciate any and all the help.
tonto

I have a pair of front seats out of an '87 Geo Sprint and the seat out of a '41  
Chevrolet Business Coupe to give away, if anyone is interested.
I can post pictures if anyone wants.

My brother-in-law has a stock Model A with a 15-20 year old amateur restoration. It's been setting in his garage for the last 7 years and now he wants to get it going again.
One of the reasons he quit driving it was, it has rust in the gas tank, and  of course, every time he drove it, the filter stops up.
Any suggestions?  
He also has a transmission problem, but I think I'll get this part going first.

Got a question about changing wheel offset or back spacing.
'41 Chevy business coupe with MII front end. Stock 15 X 6" Chevy wheels.
I don't like the wheels setting as far in as they do and wonder  what  the effect would be on the rest of the front end , ride height, steering geometry and so on,  if I put on wheels of the same size, but with ~2" less back spacing?

I'll appreciate any and all advice and comments

Well, after 40 years, it appears my Craftsman 180 decided it has did enough welding.  No matter what amp setting I use it will barely strike an arc, then it won't maintain it.  I did the usual for me, took the cover off, cleaned the contacts, checked the voltages, checked for shorts as best I know how.  Friends tell me the transformer is probably bad, so I guess it's time to look for another one.
Anyone have any advice.  Since my welder sets more than my plane, which is a h--l  of a lot, it doesn't have to be an expensive one.
About all I need is around 200 amp AC, 220Volt. I guess having AC-DC might be better, but I've never used DC, so I don't know.

Harry :oops:

Our son is looking at a 1998 Monte Carlo with the 3.1 engine.  The car has 45K mi.  and it appears that the coolant has never been changed .
It still has that  brownish looking coolant, that if I'm correct, GM says is supposed to last 100K mi (LOL).
I've read several boards where people seem to have a lot of trouble with coolant getting in the oil past the intake manifold gasket.
Anyone have any experience.
I'd appreciate any advice.

Harry

Well, I've finally gotten far enough to think about getting the front end aligned.
Does anyone know the numbers for a MustangII front end.
As always, I appreciate any help

Hi;
'41 Chevy Business Coupe with a Mustang II front suspension.
I finally have the car basically driveable and am wondering about a front sway bar.
If I remember right, I used a Street Rod Engineering crossmember with stock M II control arms.  It's the crossmember that bolts to the Chevy frame in the original holes.
Are the sway bars pretty much universal for the M II front suspensions, or does each manufacturer make a special one for each application.

I'd appreciate some advice :oops:

Thanks

Hi;
'41 Chevy Business Coupe with a Mustang II front suspension.
I finally have the car basically driveable and am wondering about a front sway bar.
If I remember right, I used a Street Rod Engineering crossmember with stock M II control arms.  It's the crossmember that bolts to the Chevy frame in the original holes.
Are the sway bars pretty much universal for the M II front suspensions, or does each manufacturer make a special one for each application.

I'd appreciate some advice :oops:

Thanks

I have a Q-jet on a 5.7 SBC that drips from the nozzles at idle. And adjusting the idle screws dosen't change the idle at all. Is there any reasonable cure for this? :oops:

Hi;
Been a while since I've posted. Been playing with other stuff.
Got the '41 out today to run it a bit and decided it's time to get a little more serious about a carb.
I've got a Quadra-jet that I put together from 3 different carbs and it's not working out at all, so I am thinking , just go buy a new one and quit wasting time.
I have a '88 350 SBC with Performer intake, mild cam, ~9 to 1 comp, aftermarket HEI, Chevy truck exhaust manifolds and dual exhaust.
700R4 and 2.88 gears.
Is the Edelbrock 1406 a decent carb to put on there or is there something better?

I appreciate any and all suggestions