Messages

You know Isadora Duncan the famous dancer (because she liked to dance nude) was killed when a scarf wrapped around her neck got cught in the wheels of the touring car in which she was riding.  That was back in the 30's I think.  Broke her neck!  I wish I was wearing my helmet when I was hit by that car on my bicycle last month.  I lost two days.  Why is it you always think of safety after the accident?  :oops:

Orlando is still $2.46 most places.  But I did see a $2.39 off the beaten path last week.  I put a motor on my bicycle and get 100 mpg!   Take that oil cartel!

I agree with the other guys Crosley.  Don't crush it, sell it!  The parts will go well enough.  Put the shell on e-pay with no reserve and the thing will sell!  Don't sweat the tires, tell the guy it's up to him to get it home.  I've sold two cars on e-pay and they both went to local guys.  They thought they got a deal!  You know what they say; there's no accounting for taste!

HI John,
    This is John.  I had similar problems with my Chevy-Ford.  Like EMS I used Alan Grove brackets.  The Alternator was on the TOP left side.  (I'll e-mail you a picture.)
    I powder coated 'em and then found that the power steering mount put the pump in the middle of the steering column.  I made a new mount that raised the power steering pump 6 inches.

Yup, it's a great idea to use the set up before you build the frame.  I had some killer Weld Wheels that I wanted to use on a Street Least.  I found that they didn't fit the first time I put the body on.  With a Street Least you MUST use front wheel drive type wheels because of the rediculous set-back.  Many of the buyers said that they didn't like the look of the off-set wheels.
#1)  Right, set up the frame with the wheels before you get too far into the project.
#2)  If you buy a Street Beast don't plan on using any "normal" looking wheels.  Ha!

I can run the 87 in my small block without any problem.  The advances in swirl technology are amazing!
As far as ping goes ... look out!  30 years ago I had a 327 that had rebuilt with about 10 to 1.  I ran too much advance and it would ping when I hit it hard.  Being so smart , I thought, "this won't hurt the engine much, I just won't stay on it too long."  In less than 30 K she completely came unglued.  Nothing in the block was salvagable!  That includes the cam and lifters.  God bless the knock sensors that turn us back from too much ADV on rash impluses.  Beware the PING!

I took one of my grand daughters to see it.  She loved it!  I thought it was great but the humor was pretty adult!

Why don't you make some of your own?  I had to drill a hole in the handles and put a screw into it anyway.  Make some "billet" out of aluminum bar stock.  I'll bet it will be cheaper!

Until I can get to the shop, I changed to the pink springs!  It stopped the backfire and improved power 80%.  I may even need stronger springs as it bogs on WOT.

Jetting by the plugs is difficult at best any more because of the crap they put in the fuel now. best way to do it is with an Air/fuel meter.

I never thought of that!  Maybe I can wrangle some time at one of the work stations.  Thanks.

Yes the Edelbrock has an air valve. Normally what is happening to you is caused by leaning out. I suppose there is a possibility the air valve was left out. My car will do that if you roll into the throttle with a cold engine, but never once it warms up.

Thanks for the advise guys.  Wires are correct.  I'm sorry, I was thinking power valve like a Q-jet.  That huge butterfly on top is what you are talking about, right?  How can it be adjusted?  It does this hot or cold, sneaking into the secondaries or WOT, sitting or driving.   I originally had larger jets, and rods, in the primaries but went one step leaner because the plugs read rich. (that was when the mixture was way too far retarded because of the timing tab being off)  I could easily go back to the original jetting, although the plugs still show a bit rich on the mixture.

China is driving tranny core prices up  THey buy the cores for metal scrap

Is that like the Asian metal rotors Ford had a few years ago?  The rotors were so soft the brake pads wore a groove in the rotor instead of vice versa!

If the carb is the problem it could be the air valve opening to quickly in the secondaries( the new ones are supposed to be adjustable) or you need bigger jets in the secondary. Does it run ok at WOT from a standing start or does it act up from cruise to WOT?

Everytime the secondaries open up it backfires, even sitting at the curb!  Does an Edelbrock have an air valve?

Nope!    I pulled the carb apart and there are no blockages in the secondary circuit.  The coil is an Edelbrock HEI super coil with 1300 miles on it.  There don't seem to be any vaccum leaks, but I'll give it the old carb cleaner routine and see what happens.  Thanks, guys!

More pieces to the puzzle.

As I said in a prvious topic, the timing tab or the cam must be off because setting the initial timing with the light at 12 degrees sucked.  We disconnected the vac. adv. and advanced the dist. till we got a tad under 20 inches of vaccum.  That turns out to be about 24 degrees by the bolt on timing tab, so it's obviously wrong.  She runs smooth and gobs of power until the secondaries open .. then the problems.  I am running an HEI, good plugs and they turn brown.  I had to lean out the primary rods (Edelbrock) because the 650 came too rich to begin with.  I guess I'll go out and pull the carb apart again to see if anything is plugged.  Tape at 11!