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Messages - Jim in Texas

#1
Rodder's Roundtable / SPEEDOMETER COUPLER
February 11, 2005, 10:38:59 AM
Thanks, Bruce --

I'll contact them.

Jim
#2
Rodder's Roundtable / SPEEDOMETER COUPLER
February 10, 2005, 11:15:51 PM
Years ago, I saw a coupler some where that allowed you to couple 2 speedometer cables together.

Anybody have an idea where I could find one?

Thanks,

Jim
#3
Eastwood sells some undercoating remover; you're supposed to spray it on and after it loosens, spray a cleaner/ neutralizer on it and wipe it off.

It makes the biggest mess imaginable! That stuff runs off everywhere and will get on your lift, the floor, and on you!

The remover smells like turpentine and is sort of soapy, the neutralizer is nothing more than naptha.

It will do the job, but it's slow work, very messy and expensive!

I have stripped most of the bottom of my 57 T-Bird, and tried everything from the Eastwood stuff, oven cleaner (which didn't work well) naptha, a heat gun with a scraper, wire brushes on my drill, 3M stripper discs and still have the underside of one wheel well left to finish it out.

It's a tough and dirty job.

Eastwood shows a single or double row cup wire brush in this month's catalog that looks interesting.  The #'s are 13367 a 4" double row brush for $34.99, and a 13369  2 3/4 single row brush for $19.99. I'm going to Harbor Freight and see what they have that might work (lots cheaper).

My thoughts are that you really need to be careful with spinning wire brushes, wear good eye protection, a mask to keep the undercoating dust out of your nose, long sleeves and gloves! Wire brushes tend to sling wire pieces! Be careful!

Good luck!

Jim
#4
Rodder's Roundtable / LOW BACK BUCKET SEATS FOR SALE
February 01, 2005, 03:24:01 PM
(I hope it's OK to post this here).

These new bucket seats were originally built for a GM  van in the early 1970's, they and don't appear to have ever been installed. The only flaw I found was a small pinhole on the bottom side cover on one seat, and unless you knew it was there, you'd never see it.They are clean, and don't have the old odor or moldy smell found in seats from a junkyard or seats that have been improperly stored.

They are made of perforated vinyl which is tan in color, are adjustable with new sliders which were custom fitted to the seats ~The backs are fixed and don't tilt forward.

They measure: 19 1/2" wide,  25" tall, and the bottom of the seat cushions from front to back measures  23".

These seats are absolutely new, and would work well in a pickup, A-100, roadster or many other street rods.

I decided to change the interior color on my Econoline Pickup to black, and couldn't bear to have these nice seats recovered.

$120.00 plus $50.00 shipping -- lower 48 states.

Thanks,

Jim

davvet2(at)yahoo.com
#5
Here's a manual switch for $329.99 at Harbor Freight Tools -


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42163


Don't know if it's what you're looking for.............

Jim
#6
Quote from: "TKD_Master38"Welcome to the group from another Newbie.  I am also retired Army.  Retired from Special Forces as a Major in 1981.

I like your Econoline pickup, Back in the corner of my garage is a dodge A 400.  It is somehere around number 10 on my priority list.  :-)

Like you, I am thinning the herd, down to about 40 -50 vehicles right now. :P

Bruce

Bruce,

I just sent you a PM.

Jim
#7
Gee, thanks!

The area I live is restricted, so I can't build a metal building -- would love to have one. Another problem is the size of our lot, about 1/2 acre and the house takes up most of it, and the garage would have to match the house in design and materials.

That means a 2 1/2 car garage (which is the largest I can build) will cost about 30K -- and that's more than I have to spend. Cheaper to sell a couple of the cars (my wife says).

The only high dollar cars I have are the T-Bird & Delorean which I've had for over 10 years, the rest are just fun cars. The Ranchero stands the chance of being the quality car -- as the Alston chassis was installed by a pro on a jig. I could never have done that quality of work with my limited welding experience.

So, it's park 'em where I can and go on.
#8
Thanks, Bruce

I don't have that many to worry about, thank goodness!

Problem is I only have a 2 car garage, and the T-Bird & Delorean are in it.

The others have to sit outside. The Ranchero is on the car trailer, Falcon parked in front of it in the backyard behind the fence, the Econoline is parked in the drive, along with our 2 daily drivers.

I plan to probably sell the Falcon & Econoline this year if they're ready.

Then again, I may just build another garage to keep them in!



Jim
#9
Neat!

I like Pro Streeters.
#10
Thanks!

I am retired Army and have some time to piddle these days;

here's are shots of my '62 Falcon.

BTTW, I will be thinning the herd this spring.

Jim
#11
I'd been looking to information on how to build an English wheel for some time, most of the plans were above my limited capabilities -- this one wasn't.

I truly appreciate the "how to".

I'm an old street rodder that somehow got off track into Pro Street cars, and planned to build some scoops -- wanted them out of metal instead of fiberglass, we'll see if I can do it.

Here's a shot of the Ranchero -- it needs a lot of work!

Jim
#12
I'm working on several things; first of all a '63 Ford Econoline Pickup with a 454 in the bed, a '62 Falcon with a 460 C-6 and a '62 Falcon Ranchero with an Alston tube chassis which will have a 460 C-6.

Also have a '57 T-Bird which is completely apart for restoration and an '81 Delorean with 10K actual miles that's covered up in the garage.

My new year's resolution is to finish one of them; which will probably be the Econoline. Motor/trans is out - motor's done, trans is next. Then I have to get the body work done. All this for a truck that was running & looked decent when I got it home!
#13
That's also what Frank told me to do, so now I'm going to give it a try.

Thanks for the help.

Jim
#14
I'm in Waco.

Frank emailed me on how to sand the bearing, now I just need to do it!

Jim
#15
First of all, thanks for the "how to" on the English Wheel -- it appears easy enough that even I can build it!

I have one question, though -- it was stated "the bottom bearing should have a flat about .075 wide sanded in the center, and blended into the radius. Not totally necessary, but it makes the wheel more effective".

How do I sand the bottom bearing  and blend the radius where it's the same on both sides?

This is my first post -- glad I found this site!

Thanks!

Jim