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Right now it does better then the original 352 around town so even with the 3.54 gears I will need overdrive on the highway so I will have to decide if I want to keep the C-6 and add a Gear vendor type o/d or go with a manual trans and find a NV4500,

Problem with the C6 is that it does not have a lockup converter, and fitting an overdrive to it may not help as much as you expect.
If you want to stay auto, how about an E40D transmission ?
This has both an overdrive and a lockup converter, and being electronic, you can tune the electronic brain to work exactly how you want it to work.  

Or go full manual transmission.

Taller gear may only be of benefit if you live in dead flat country.
If you live in the hills, taller gear than 3.54 may actually hurt economy.
A good spread of ratios + overdrive will give the best of everything.

Right now it does better then the original 352 around town so even with the 3.54 gears I will need overdrive on the highway so I will have to decide if I want to keep the C-6 and add a Gear vendor type o/d or go with a manual trans and find a NV4500,

Problem with the C6 is that it does not have a lockup converter, and fitting an overdrive to it may not help as much as you expect.
If you want to stay auto, how about an E40D transmission ?
This has both an overdrive and a lockup converter, and being electronic, you can tune it to work exactly how you want it to work.  

Or go full manual transmission.

Taller gear may only be of benefit if you live in dead flat country.
If you live in the hills, taller gear than 3.54 may actually hurt economy.
A good spread of ratios + overdrive will give the best of everything.

It all depends on what is most important, horsepower or miles per gallon, and the available budget and ongoing future costs of the project.

We are living in difficult financial times, and things are about to get a whole lot tougher for most of us, especially in America.  
Each of us has our own priorities.
But the key to this might very well be making best use of what you already have.
I know this is a Hot Rod Forum, but we also have to be realistic....

I suppose it would depend on the condition of the 307, and why it was removed in the first place.
If its totally stuffed, It probably isn't worth the trouble. But then again it could be in absolutely prime condition or just have one minor easily fixed problem.
Give it a leak down test and eyeball the bearing shells, and have a good look over it, then base your decision on what you find.

Yeah, its pretty rare, but once you have seen it, you never never forget....

Another way to go about all this might be to use an aftermarket gear drive starter such as produced IMI.

http://www.hitorque.com/searchresults.asp?cat=25

http://www.hitorque.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=IMI%2D301%2D003

IMI make starters for both rotations and for a very wide range of applications.
I am sure they may either already have something (marine SBC maybe), or could build you a "special" by assembling a mix of existing off the shelf IMI parts.

Four things will be needed.
1/ A reverse rotation motor (standard)
2/ A reverse rotation clutch/bendix
3/ The correct pinion (tooth pitch and number of teeth)
4/ The correct mounting nose to fit the bellhousing and properly locate the pinion depth.

The way these IMI starters are put together, it is pretty easy for them to mix and match parts to suit just about anything.

It might be worth contacting IMI and see what they say.

The only other reverse starter application I can think of that has not already been mentioned would be Mazda rotary.
These have two alternative starter motor locations.
The most common type is behind the flywheel, beside the gearbox.
Some less common rotary models had the starter bolted right on top of the engine in front of the flywheel.

As I traveled up the rubber top hose the temp would drop as follows; 1/3 up=182; 2/3 up=174 and on the top tank to the left of the hose I got a reading of 167/165ish on the aluminum Griffin.

It sure does sound like there is insufficient water flow at idle.
Could be very high leakage around the pump impeller, or pump not turning fast enough.

I would pull the pump and have a look inside.
Check out some pictures of a few replacement pumps on the internet, and see if you can spot one with a bigger more meaty impeller that fits your engine.
Some engine variants come with different engine pulley sizes and pump impeller sizes and fan sizes for different vehicle applications.
You may have fluked an unfortunate combination, high rpm pump, and slow pump  pulley size.

The way this works, a manufacturer may decide to turn the fan faster to get a lot more air, and then fit a smaller capacity pump to reduce high rpm cavitation.

It may also be worth  flushing out the radiator just to be absolutely sure there is nothing in there restricting the flow.  
Its very rare, but I have heard of people finding a rubber "flapper" lurking inside one of the radiator hoses where the rubber has de laminated and folded back on itself.

Now that the economic downturn is ending.

I would not bet on that.
Stock and bond market crash dead ahead.

If you are keeping the original wheels, hubs, discs and calipers, the relationship between all the various parts cannot be any different.
All that happens is that both the ball joints should be located two inches lower on the spindle.

Unless these new spindles reduce the front track width, the lower ball joints will not be spread further apart, just move downwards.
So even clearance to the backing plate should not decrease.

I have no experience with those actual spindles, but I just cannot see a problem with wheel/caliper clearance is possible.

It would definitely discourage tail gating.

I would go around to a bulk appliance store, a place where they sell washing machines, refrigerators, dishwashers, etc...

These products often ship in big * cardboard boxes, and you should be able to score some big stiff thick sheets of cardboard and useful chunks of polystyrene packing material for free.

Then get creative with some duct tape and make that hood look respectable.

The shipping companies will then usually just measure it, weigh it, and accept it without comment.
just another package....

You could almost carve a whole Xcalade outa that thing.

That looks expensive...

I have a '94 Caprice wagon, LT1 and 4L60E trans. The trans is shot. What other trans will fit? These trans are not for just this year only, are they?
Thank you for any help.

Harry, the 4L60E has been used over a great many years on a very wide range of different models and applications, and is a very common transmission.

But you need to be careful....
There are some significant differences that can cause you grief.
I am no expert, but these are some of the differences between various 4L60E transmissions that I know about.

There are two different output shaft lengths, all two wheel drive transmissions have an output shaft that is about three inches longer than all the four wheel drive transmissions.

The newer 4L60E has a six bolt pattern on the back, older 4L60E has a four bolt pattern on the back.
There were quite a few different rear extension housings made with very different gearbox mounting locations and other odd features.
Provided it has the long output shaft, and the right rear bolt pattern, you can very easily swap over your existing rear housing to solve that problem.

At the front there have been two types of bell housings. The later ones are a full 360 degrees, and earlier ones have a removable cover plate on the bottom.  They look quite different, but as far as I know either will work in any application.
The removable cover is a good feature, much better for access to the torque converter bolts, but the later 360 degree cover is stronger.

You should be able to find something fairly easily at a friendly price if you know what features to look for.

It would be interesting to find out how the official factory service guys do it.
There is probably a special tool listed with a very long part number that costs at least $385.00