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I make the wheel suport rings also. I have sold to folks on the HAMB. No complaints. They are $44 including shipping.

I made a little plate that extends forward under the bottom lip of the dash. It is held on by the column drop bolts. The swich is mounted so it sticks up through the plate with the key down. With the key out,nothing shows. With the key in, you just see the key ring and keys. I like it. I made another plate that is mounted or the far left under the dash also. It has the idiot lights and the high beam switch. Only the black lever for the switch is easily seen.

I am not a fan of the Deuce Factory dead perch. It is too long and moves the whole car off center. The shackle ends up being almost straight down and binding. I would suggest you make your own. A friend made his by measuring the angle of the shackle as installed in his car and welded the links to his perch bolt. Looks stock and works great.

Dingus, Thanks for the input. Good to hear from someone who has a lot of experience with the dead perch setup. I would very much like to see the drawing you made.  You wouldn't by any chance remember which issue of Rod Action that is in would you?  I have a complete set and can look in there if you don't want to do the email thing. Thanks.

trackster[/quote
I don't remember the issue. It has been quite a while. I had the drawing so I could print it on a standard piece of paper. I can e-mail it ,I think, if I had your address. I will try to attach it and a pic of it installed and post it tomorrow.

I have run a dead perch on my car for 15 years or so. It works great for me. I have built some for friends and they like them too. I have built them from old perch bolts and also from new bar stock. The one shown in an earlier post is too long from bolt to spring mount and moves the car off center with the axle. I can e-mail drawings of my design for those interested. My drawing was published in Rod Action some years ago.

The Vett covers  with the straight across holes are still available new from Chevy!!

I just got an old Offy manifold with 2 AFB's.  Looks old but in good shape. No tags on carbs, how can I ID carbs and get info on how to set up this combo for a SBC?  Good web sites?

Thanks a bunch!

I might be able to tell you something if I had a pic. e-mail me if you can't post.  ajraff@texxa.net

I have a friend that is building a 41 Studebaker as a 60's gasser. He has a 55 Chevy 4-sp hydro and would like to modify the fluid coupling for more stall. I had one that was modified way back by bending the vanes but I don't remember witch way. Anybody good on these things or have any lit. from B&M from the 60's? Thanks

My bad! I somehow decided it was a front steer deal. Too many MII's  I guess. All sounds good.  By!  :oops:

I think the rack should be moved toward the rear if possible. The angle between the line from the ball joint to the tie rod end and the direction of the end of the tie rod should be way less than 90 degrees. If you look down on a front steer car it is visable that the linkage is to the back. My 60 Chev is a good example.
To check for bump steer, assemble the front end without springs. put a piece of plywood vertically near the outside of the wheel(no tire) Move the suspension up and down and take measurements at the front and back of the wheel They don't have to be the same but the  front and back measurements should maintain the same differences as it moves.

I think that the back of the frame may be bent down! My experience is that the tank just bearly slides in. I would take some measurements off the flat portion of the frame ahead of the kick-up and see how low the ends of the frame are. If you can do this and would like a check measurement from me, let me know.