The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: jaybee on March 17, 2009, 02:38:14 PM
Has anyone here pulled a used fuse block for use in another car? How much money might honestly be saved by going this route over a wiring kit by the time you pay for wire, terminal ends, and the like? Are there other advantages to using a kit over and above time saved, written instructions, and clearly labeled (preprinted) wires? Any advice over and above picking up a copy of Skip Readio's book? Other resources I should look at?
Sorry for playing 20 questions, I never really considered other than using a kit. I'd say there's about a 75% chance I'll be parting out Son's Lumina soon and I see it has a nice, compact fuse block that mounts in the dash without a bulkhead connector through the firewall.
Quote from: "jaybee"Has anyone here pulled a used fuse block for use in another car? How much money might honestly be saved by going this route over a wiring kit by the time you pay for wire, terminal ends, and the like? Are there other advantages to using a kit over and above time saved, written instructions, and clearly labeled (preprinted) wires? Any advice over and above picking up a copy of Skip Readio's book? Other resources I should look at?
Sorry for playing 20 questions, I never really considered other than using a kit. I'd say there's about a 75% chance I'll be parting out Son's Lumina soon and I see it has a nice, compact fuse block that mounts in the dash without a bulkhead connector through the firewall.
Many years ago when I built the WZ JUNK truck, I robbed the wiring out of a 78 Camaro. I mounted the fuse block to an aluminium plate and I added terminal strips at that location. I then added all the Camaro wiring back to these terminal strips. It has worked fine all these years but I would not do it again. You can purchase a good wiring kit for less than $200 and they are worth the money. At the time I did the truck I had more time than money.
My 2 cents.
John
I've done it both ways too. Using the junkyard block i learned an awful lot about wiring, but it took a long time, I didn't use the donor car harness though, i did the one wire at a time deal; using the kit it was done in a few hours, less frustration, but more money. I am starting another build and I think I'll use another junkyard block because this one will be very basic, ignition, lights and a horn..well maybe a horn... :lol:
I've done a bunch of wiring, I have done it both ways. If I am doing it for a customer, unless it's a really strange job, it is cheaper for them if I use a kit. For the most part wire, the terminals, and connectors will cost nearly as much as a kit does complete. that said, my own stuff I usually wire from scratch, because I generally have enough left overs to do my own.
I pirated a harness out of a Lemans for my 32 Chevy. Worked great, but quite a mess spread out on the living room floor. Also it was a 20 year old harness and all that tape and goo were real messy.
On my 34 Chevy I bought a panel assembly but not the harness. I can see where it would help to have all the pre-marked wires. But in looking at what the panel kit included, I figured I could make my own cheaper.
So on my 33 Chevy I wired it from scratch. I bought 2 ten circuit fuse boxes. I hooked one up for hot al the time, and the other I hooked up for hot only with the key on. I like it.
.bjb
I used to wire Hot Rods for a buddy of mine that had a Hot Rod Shop in the 70's. We would use the latest GM car we could find in the bone yard. There were no kits then but I think I used enough butt connector to buy a harness at todays price.
I put a EZ-Wirirng harness in my Dodge and will never use a doner car's harness again. I think the fuse block and wires are better than you can get at the bone yard.
That is my two cents worth.
Rick
I pulled a late Ford pickup fuse box out to use as a fuse block in my 31 on 32 rails roadster project.
Need to check it out close to see what's up with how the wires attach.
(Got it with some other stuff, put it on the shelf and kinda forgot about it.)
I wired my 32 with a couple of 12 terminal power station type terminal blocks.
Nice way to go, #10 screws and long enough to stack 2-3 terminals on one position.
Bought 20 panel fuse holders and mounted them in the sheet metal seat riser.
They're very accessible and at the same time out of sight.
Also have a couple of fuse blocks under the seat.
The 32 has a lot of circuits, one wire goes to each device.
And they're fused individually.
One for left high beam, one for left low beam, etc.
Sorta aircraft style.
My thinking here was, why lose every light in the car for a problem on one wire.
Worked well, 15 years, 49,000 miles and no problems.
Cost?
Like Enjenjo says, about the same as a wiring kit by the tme you buy the individual components.
One thing I did learn was, I shoulda bought the wire in 100' rolls instead of 25' & 35' - depends on gage as to the length you get.
Use fuse link wire for major feeds.
If you run an MSD ignition amplifier box, you'll find their instructions say to run direct to the battery.
Screw that, I fused it anyway.
If the circuit or box fails it could burn up a lot of wire or worse and the fuse blowing would do the same.
Used Buss glass style tube fuses on the 32.
If I use the Ford fuse box - probably will - the modern two prong plastic case fuses are a little better way to go in my opinion.
Buy good quality wire with a somewhat high individual strand count so the wire will flex without any problems.
You don't need to use the really flexy stuff like you'd find on quality test leads, but you don't want it so stiff that the wire will break.
Take care where there's a chance the wire will lie on a sharp sheet metal edge or hot engine piece.
A lot of wiring jobs - even from factories - are just an accident waiting to happen.
Tie the wire back with nylon ties, hold it down with Adel clamps (available at True Value hardware stores in bulk or individually) and run it through flexible tubing or even fuel line hose in out of the way places where it doesn't show.
Especially don't let it lie on stainless hose.
That stuff is a slow speed saw and will cut through most anything including sheet metal....
I used a OE fuse panel on one vehicle with store bought wire. it was time consuming and not really economical once I was finished.
I wonder what is a good rated wire now. I see assembled kits that offer wire with rating of GXL or SXL .. ?
Folks do not think much about wiring till something goes out or burns up
Hello;
I did my 57 Chevy two years ago and I used a EZ wire harness. I had never wired a car completely but at the time, a friend helped me that had done it a couple times. It took us a couple weeks (working on weekends) to get it done but that was one of the best things I have done so far to this car! Everything works (electrical) way better! Lights, horn, radio, you name it!
My kit didn't have any connectors but I have a complete tool box with all the necessary stuff inside and I picked up a couple extra goodies that I needed to complete the job. It's all in the planning and laying out the harness to get every wire pointed in the right direction.
The cost was around $200.00 and the results were priceless!!
Bruce
The jury is in, sounds like there are better places to save a little green unless you already have a drawer full of quality electrical bits.
I used one from a Chevy Luv truck, but that was back in the mid 70's
:D
I too have done it both ways ...
At first I used a Vega wiring harness ... but then when kits became available ... I tried a few different ones. I just did a American AutoWire 15 ... in my 32 3W coupe.
(http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/pics/2346_1.jpg)
Go here for the video ... http://www.americanautowire.com/
About 3 hundred but it has about everything you need and GOOD instructions ... :)
Some of the so called fuse boxes on the newer cars are actually Central Processing Units,or "CPUS'. These contain internal relays systems and are very confusing if you don't understand them.Some even have to be reprogramed to accompany other modules in the car.Probably be a good idea to pick up a universal fuse box from a wiring jobber.The same plastic "mini" fuses take up less room and are easy to check. they aren't that expensive. When it comes to wiring,the straight forward approch is best.Believe me,youll be lot happier in the long run.
I am doing my second vehicle with a donor block and wires. The first was a Chrysler because most kits only had connectors for Chev and Ford. In both cases it is a learning experience, both good and bad. I've had no problems with the Chrysler unit in 94,000 miles. The other unit is camero in a 47 Chev and is not to the point of testing yet. Either method depends on your budget, your abilities and your willingness to learn. Best wishes either way.
Fred