The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: kb426 on April 28, 2008, 06:44:20 PM
I used 2 layers of Ram Audio mat on the firewall of the 32. This product is similar to Dynamat. I'm not happy with the amount of heat that I'm getting. Anybody have a solution to this? The truck has a full hood with 20 louver side panels.
I used an insulation product that Lobucrod is producing and selling and I couldn't be happier. In fact, it worked so well that I was alittle bummed driving Big Olds from Austin, TX to Nashville, TN last Dec. It was very cold and Big Olds doesn't have heat. I normally get quite a bit of heat from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment BUT since the installation of his heat and sound deadening product, I've gotten none. Was a cold ride.
The insulation is a fraction of the cost of Dynamat.
http://www.lobucrod.com/
Tell him you're a pal o mine
Quote from: "HotRodLadyCrusr"I used an insulation product that Lobucrod is producing and selling and I couldn't be happier. In fact, it worked so well that I was alittle bummed driving Big Olds from Austin, TX to Nashville, TN last Dec. It was very cold and Big Olds doesn't have heat. I normally get quite a bit of heat from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment BUT since the installation of his heat and sound deadening product, I've gotten none. Was a cold ride.
The insulation is a fraction of the cost of Dynamat.
http://www.lobucrod.com/
Tell him you're a pal o mine
Hi Denise
This stuff sounds great, roughly how much did it take to insulate the Olds, I want to get some insulation/sound deadening for my 66 mustang coupe.
Steve
just a thought.... is it localized exhaust heat...??????
if so... i have in the past when i had access to a muffler pipe bender...
took a larger diameter exhaust tube.. bent it to duplicate the bend... reduced the end diameter in a (i forget what they call it) then cut it in half with a cut off tool... this allowed me to place it over the exhaust piece that was too close to the floorboard... it blocked the infrared radiation being a quarter inch above the exhaust tube... there are some on new cars in various locations... some are removable... and some are nice stainless...
cccCCCCCCCCCCCCccc so the ends are clamped or tacked to the main pipe and the middle is held off ... blocking heat transfer...
Quote from: "sal37"
Hi Denise
This stuff sounds great, roughly how much did it take to insulate the Olds, I want to get some insulation/sound deadening for my 66 mustang coupe.
Steve
I don't remember exactly how many square feet he sent. I do know it came to $66.00 including shipping to do the whole car. Tell Mike what kind of car, he should know exactly how much is neccessary.
Wayne, this is from the firewall. The floor has 1 layer on it also. There is almost no heat coming up. The mufflers are behind the cab. The temp hasn't been above 90 yet so I'm wondering how bad this will get. I'm not quite done with the ac but I don't want it to be ineffective because of too much heat.
I used that stuff from lobuc too. I like it.
I wished I had used it on the firewall instead of the junk I used :x
he's pretty reasonable.
Vance
Does the insulation go all the way to the top of the firewall?
Mine stops short about a foot from the top and that's where I get a lot of heat.
So far, no A/C required in my roadster, but it only gets up to 112* F here....
C9, it goes all the way to the top. I thought that the Ram mat would fix everything but I need more. I made my own Coolcar ceramic insulation and sprayed it on the floor and the rest of the cab but not the firewall. I put a layer Of Ram mat on the back, the floor, and the doors and then quit. I'm investigating the Low E insulation. If it has no flaws, I'm going to get enough to put a layer on everything.
What I have been using on firewalls. At the swap meets there are guys selling rubber foam mats about 1" thick. I have been using them after cutting to size, and wrapping them in Tonneau cover vinyl.
I have also used several layers of the closed cell foam with good results.
I'm going to use some peel-n-stick foil backed rubber looking sound deadener/insulation from ABC Supply on the floor of the '40. It was about $55 for an 18"X33' roll. Lots of good reports on it over on the HAMB a month or so ago. All I had before was the old jute stuff under the carpet. I'll give a report in a few weeks after I use it.
Charlie
Hey Billy, how much you need :?:
I got at least one full roll, and prolly a partial roll. :idea:
should be enough to do your ride :-o
Vance
Quote from: "enjenjo"What I have been using on firewalls. At the swap meets there are guys selling rubber foam mats about 1" thick. I have been using them after cutting to size, and wrapping them in Tonneau cover vinyl.
That rubber was originally designed for insulation use. It is available in different thicknesses. It is commonly seen preformed to fit household water pipes. That material is used in industry to keep the cold in. Like refrigeration systems. Then guys on the jobsites found it worked well to cut pieces and use it for kneeling pads. Now pieces are seen for sale with cut out handles just for that. The common size in industry for that material is about 3' x 4'. It normally has an open cell look to one side and a slick finish on the other. There are a few brand names. I have a few sheets that I plan to cut and use inside my doors and the back of my cab.
Enjenjo - how does the carpet hold up and feel with that thick and soft of material under it on the firewall? I didn't think it would work well anywhere that feet went. OR are you putting it on the engine side of the firewall?
QuoteEnjenjo - how does the carpet hold up and feel with that thick and soft of material under it on the firewall? I didn't think it would work well anywhere that feet went.
I don't carpet it, I use Landau vinyl. Similar to naugahyde, but heavier. I glue it on with regular upholstery cement, wrapping the vinyl around the sides, and a bit on the back side. I have not had one come loose yet.
The rubber I got was about 1" thick, and looks like what you described.
On steel bodies, when I am filling firewall holes, I weld several 1/4" by 2" elevator bolts on the inside of the body. This works good for holding the insulation, any brackets for AC and so forth, and a place to mount the fuse box and wire harness.
I'm at work now so I went and got a box label. The stuff we are using is AP Armaflex manufactured by Armacell in Mebane, NC. This box is 3/4" thick material with a part # APS34043. It is 3' x 4' x 3/4". There are 8 sheets in a box. This would probably be oversized shipping, but not heavy. On top of the label it says R-3. Do you think that is all the insulation value it has? We used to use a product called Rubitex or something like that. It was the same stuff.