The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: msuguydon on July 02, 2007, 12:09:12 PM
Man if its not one thing its another.
I am concerned about the rudder on the tuna boat. I went for a twenty minute ride yesterday to the little ice cream place down the road and at times the steering seemed to be floating, no feel in the steering wheel. SO when I got home I popped the hood and gave the steering column under the hood the once over. I got rubbing.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/msuguydon/P7020018.jpg)
Picture One.
This is where the under the hood steering shaft mounts to the power steering gizmo. The heads of the bolts are rubbing against the top of the power steering box.
Picture Two.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/msuguydon/P7020020.jpg)
I can pull the steering column up, toward the fire wall, it exposes the silver shaft, but bolt tops do not rub.
As I write this I know Frank and others will be saying... Check you shop manual... ok, ok, DAD!!.. I will!
Shop manual says exessive play or looseness in Steering Mechanism may be due to a loose worm thrust bearing adjustment.... ahhh ... okay ..now to find the worm thrust bearing....
Quote from: "msuguydon"Shop manual says exessive play or looseness in Steering Mechanism may be due to a loose worm thrust bearing adjustment.... ahhh ... okay ..now to find the worm thrust bearing....
Its inside the steering box :wink:
that steering thingy the steering shaft hooks to. :shock:
prolly be easier to replace the whole steering box thingy than to tear the steering box down and relace the "worm gear thrust bearing"
just put an inboard with a jet drive on it, that'll fix 'er right up :lol:
Vance
Quote from: "EMSjunkie"Quote from: "msuguydon"Shop manual says exessive play or looseness in Steering Mechanism may be due to a loose worm thrust bearing adjustment.... ahhh ... okay ..now to find the worm thrust bearing....
Its inside the steering box :wink:
that steering thingy the steering shaft hooks to. :shock:
prolly be easier to replace the whole steering box thingy than to tear the steering box down and relace the "worm gear thrust bearing"
just put an inboard with a jet drive on it, that'll fix 'er right up :lol:
Vance
Is there a screw with a lock nut on the top of the steering box.. Look in the manual Don. If there is the play maybe adjusted out with that but the steering needs to be dead straight while making this adjustment..
Dave
ps; love them squirt boats..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/58-64-Chevy-Caprice-Impala-605-500-Power-Steering-Box_W0QQitemZ290133866900QQcmdZViewItem
Look at the kinda shinny aluminum cover.. see the screw and lock nut ..
Dave
Inj fact i see yours in the first pic. Some times they have been adjusted enuff that they cant be adjusted anymore.. Aslo you could have worn tie rods Etc.
Dave :wink:
Quote from: "jusjunk"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/58-64-Chevy-Caprice-Impala-605-500-Power-Steering-Box_W0QQitemZ290133866900QQcmdZViewItem
Look at the kinda shinny aluminum cover.. see the screw and lock nut ..
Dave
You mean the LASH ADJUSTER SCREW?
Quote from: "msuguydon"Quote from: "jusjunk"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/58-64-Chevy-Caprice-Impala-605-500-Power-Steering-Box_W0QQitemZ290133866900QQcmdZViewItem
Look at the kinda shinny aluminum cover.. see the screw and lock nut ..
Dave
You mean the LASH ADJUSTER SCREW?
10-4 good buddy that would be it...
Dave
I'm going to hazard a guess. I think '58 may have had power assist that involved the power steering slave cylinder type of assist. I would predict that the steering box may have been changed to a newer one and what-ever "rag-joint" that looked like it would work was used. I'm making this assumption because the normal joint at the steering box involved the use of a 12point bolt, not the newer than '58 6point. If those assumptions are correct then the "Book" would not be correct. This might need you to go clear-up to the steering wheel as far as identifying what you have. Is the key in the steering column (not a '58). Is the shift indicator correct ( '58 had a 2 speed automatic)? Normally the two bolts on the "rag-joint" would have the nuts on the side away from the steering box. It also appears as that "rag-joint" is being used as a universal joint. I know this doesn't fix anything but I hope I didn't make it too much worse. GPster
Joe i did a google on 58 boxes and found a used one for sale on a racing site (dam puker crashed here so i dont have it handy) It was the same as the one in dons car so im thinking thats a stock box.. Ill look in my book when i get home. Idstill have someone loook at the tierods and also the ball joints or what ever 58 uses. It could be a number of things..
Dave
Okay, I will tell you what I know and don't know....
The power steering unit on this car is not a 1958 power steering unit, this is a later model saginaw power steering unit. This is where my knowledge starts and stops on that front.
I was concerned about noises, bangs, bumps etc... coming from the front end and approximately 3 weeks ago had a licensed mechanic go through the front end, he replaced A-Arms, re-aligned everything, found bolts/nuts that were missing, replaced those, tighened up the steering box, bleed the brakes, installed new bushings.
Things were very good, no noises, bumps bangs.. now as I turn the wheel I get these brieft moments of looseness or slop.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/msuguydon/scan0001-1.jpg)
ok don with the car safely in park fire it up and reach under the hood and turn the steering shaft by hand while watching the pitman arm on the bottom of the box.. See if it moves as soon as you tru to rotate the shaft. if it doesnt maybe the lash adjustment will fix it or it could be sumpin else in the box. Also note it there is any movement of the box it self like the bolts to the frame are loose frame cracked etc. You can also put your foot on the tire and feel your way around this also.. If its a replacement box i think its a 605 i can confirm that also.. I think...
Dave
Quote from: "jusjunk"ok don with the car safely in park fire it up and reach under the hood and turn the steering shaft by hand while watching the pitman arm on the bottom of the box.. See if it moves as soon as you tru to rotate the shaft. if it doesnt maybe the lash adjustment will fix it or it could be sumpin else in the box. Also note it there is any movement of the box it self like the bolts to the frame are loose frame cracked etc. You can also put your foot on the tire and feel your way around this also.. If its a replacement box i think its a 605 i can confirm that also.. I think...
Dave
Ok, while safely in park, I fired up the car and turned the steering shaft by hand, the pitman arm moved as soon as I start rotating.
The box does "flex" when I turn the wheel. There is some movement of the steering box.
As you may recall, the box did break away from the frame and was re-welded by Rooman about 6 weeks ago.
Don, I'm assuming that when you pull up on the steering column shaft, that the clamp with the single bolt isn't moving on the shaft coming out of the box? The shaft inside the box is moving with the clamp/steering column, meaning that the clamp is tight?
Quote from: "58 Yeoman"Don, I'm assuming that when you pull up on the steering column shaft, that the clamp with the single bolt isn't moving on the shaft coming out of the box? The shaft inside the box is moving with the clamp/steering column, meaning that the clamp is tight?
Well, you might just be on to something... if you look at the second picture you see that nice shiny bolt between the black rubber gizmo (rag joint?) and the steering box... well ... I tightened that bolt up... it seems to have a fixed the issue... does this make sense... it kinda does to me.. but what do I know!!
Quote from: "msuguydon"Well, you might just be on to something... if you look at the second picture you see that nice shiny bolt between the black rubber gizmo (rag joint?) and the steering box... well ... I tightened that bolt up... it seems to have a fixed the issue... does this make sense... it kinda does to me.. but what do I know!!
That is the bolt I was refering to that should be a 12point bolt. The correct bolt pulls that collar closed and into the splines on the steering box shaft. The bolt should be in a position to slide in a groove in the splines on that shaft or along the flat side of the splines. If that bolt wasn't tight (and was the correct one) the splines on that collar would expand and not fit in the corresponding splines of the steering box shaft. If it worked that way for a while the steering column might only be turning the steering box because the side of the bolt is flat against the flat side of the splined shaft out of the steering box. I don't recall but the un-threaded side of the correct bolt might be a little larger than the un-threaded shank of a regular bolt. I personally think you should be out looking for a replacement "rag joint". I used to have a 3/8" / 7/16" box end wrench that was longer than most that made short work of taking out the correct bolt on the steering box shaft but I must have left it under the hood of a "Junker" somewhere. GPster
Don...If I am understanding properly, the " Rag Joint" ,( Black thing on the end of the steering shaft with the "rubbing bolt" in it ) , is loose on the steering box input shaft -( "silver thing" that gets exposed when you pull up on the wheel ) ...It may be as simple as tightening that bolt...The input shaft has a "notch" in it , ( look at the manual picture) , that the bolt needs to line up in before being tightened...It does not go "through" the shaft, it kind lays "alongside "it ...Move the rag joint up away from the steering box approx 1/4"...enough to make the bolt heads clear the steering box & then tighten the bolt.....It is VERY unlikly the box had an internal failure all of a sudden...they seldom go bad that way..Try tightening the bolt first...the rag joint coupler is NOT supposed to slide up & down on the input shaft...It MUST be tight on the shaft & the "rubbing bolt " is what keeps it tight.....
THAT settles it :!: :!: I MUST learn to type with more than 2 fingers & get rid of this dumb dial-up thingie.... :oops: :oops: Another case where the problem is solved & the car is road tested...Where am I :?: :?: :?: I'm still thinkin' & punchin' buttons.....Pappy always said I was " Slow" :roll: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: :shock: :shock: :shock: "Team Smart" :?: :?: BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA :lol: :lol: :wink:
Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"THAT settles it :!: :!: I MUST learn to type with more than 2 fingers & get rid of this dumb dial-up thingie.... :oops: :oops: Another case where the problem is solved & the car is road tested...Where am I :?: :?: :?: I'm still thinkin' & punchin' buttons.....Pappy always said I was " Slow" :roll: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: :shock: :shock: :shock: "Team Smart" :?: :?: BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA :lol: :lol: :wink:
Keep it up and your gonna be suspended :!: :!: Ill take 750 driver points and 2 owner points just cause your not smart enuff to be an owner :lol: :lol:
Back to topic.. Don ol buddy I hate to burst your balloon here but just for safety sake please check that frame again. That box should not move around on that frame. On a home built hot rod then ok ill buy it but not on that big old heavy 58 chevrolet frame... Now I could be talking out my ugly olds here Or my ravvyn :lol: :lol: :lol: But im thinking bout you and the family.. Jack that thing up get some jack stands a flashlight a trouble light a mercury light ya ok..
Just look at it real good .. Your a lot of fun lets keep it that way....
Dave
By the way please dont give up either ... since you dont know JACK your easy to train.. :wink:
I'm preparing a reply.....It should be posted about Thursday... :roll: :roll:
Quote from: jusjunkNow I could be talking out my ugly olds here Or my ravvyn :lol: :lol: :lol: quote]
Hey Hey Hey Hey bondo breath... :x
I will not stand for that kind of defamatory talk... :evil:
This is a family site and that type of reference will NOT be tolerated... :twisted:
Clean up your act FAST...or else... :)S(
Capitalize those names boyo. Show a little respect... :roll:
It's Ugly Olds and Rayvyn... 8)
:lol: :lol: :lol:
I don't believe that steering box is original to the '58. Chevy p.s. through '64 used the ram type power assist not an integral box as they are called later on the steering linkage. The integral boxes seem to last forever.
I would go back to square one and check the installation. It seems to me that we determined a couple months ago that the frame had been modified to utilize this box. It's probably a '65 or later full size car box.
Given the number of loose parts and finger tight nuts and bolts you have run across I'd check everything.
Charlie
Quote from: "Charlie Chops 1940"
Given the number of loose parts and finger tight nuts and bolts you have run across I'd check everything.
Charlie
Man you guys seem to know WAY TOO MUCH ABOUT my car... at what point do I lose my gold chain status,.... you know, like do I lose my virginity if I get to second base, third base, or do I have to go all the way home? Another question what are the bases.. changing the oil is first base, second is opening the hood and taking off the fan belt, third base is changing a tire, home base is actually getting grease on my hands?
I think I am about to Host the TUNA BOAT Memorial Cruise-IN.... we pick a spot... I drive the TUNA boat there.... you guys all show up with jack stands, screw drivers, wrenches... and you are assigned a bolt or a screw, your choice and we each take turns tightening our assigned fastener .. until Enjenjo and GPster say we are done... then we drink beer and you guys can make fun of me!
Sounds like a weekend!
Ha...you don't get off that easy....just cuz you started late doesn't get you a free pass. Ya gotta go through the steps just like the rest of us poor slobs. LOL.
The problem with hot rods is that a lot of regular mechanics don't have a clue what they're looking at either. Have you ever heard the term "institutional memory"- the product or process memory carried by all the old timers at whatever the facility is. I worked a large part of my career (20 years) for the old Continental Motors but I didn't know near as much as the guys that spent 40 years there and as they retired and the company changed hands and the technical resources dwindled away, our combined knowledge got smaller and smaller.
A number of us on this board have been at this for 45 or 50 years...we've learned a few things and forgot some too. Hang in there you'll catch up.
Charlie
Charlie is right, that's not a '58 box. Here are 2 pix of mine (don't be looking at the rust).
(http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/1035DSC00015-med.JPG)
(http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/1035DSC00016.JPG)
I think I am about to Host the TUNA BOAT Memorial Cruise-IN.... we pick a spot... I drive the TUNA boat there.... you guys all show up with jack stands, screw drivers, wrenches... and you are assigned a bolt or a screw, your choice and we each take turns tightening our assigned fastener .. until Enjenjo and GPster say we are done... then we drink beer and you guys can make fun of me!
What do you mean then we can make fun of you then.? We can do that here. They are right you know, check everything for tightness. That moving of the steering shaft at the box is NOT acceptable, nor is the bvox moving. Charlie was right, I saw the same thing where I worked for 43 yrs. I was off for 6 months one time came back and the only other guy who knew the job was gone and the guys taking his place didn't know s%^$ it takes a while to learn. Hang in there and don't be afraid to ask questions. The only dumb question is the one NOT asked
That rag joint soesn't look too healthy either.
I'm with Dave on this, the box shouldn;t move, if it is, there is a problem. I am guessing that the box mounting bolts don't go all the way through the frame, and may be working loose because of that. Also, if possible, use all 4 bolts for mounting.
Quote from: "enjenjo"That rag joint soesn't look too healthy either.
I'm with Dave on this, the box shouldn;t move, if it is, there is a problem. I am guessing that the box mounting bolts don't go all the way through the frame, and may be working loose because of that. Also, if possible, use all 4 bolts for mounting.
At least someone agrees with me... :lol: Ive seen home built frames with box mounts with no gussets and also stock frames with no boxing or not enuff boxing near the steering mounts move. Not that its unsafe but it can interject (wow big word) a false sense of something being loose in the steering or suspension. This can also lead to funny steering and bump steer etc etc.. So with that said back to Dons problem (hope ive got enuff time) :shock:
Again and frank and I agree. That frame should not allow the box to move so it needs to be looked at closely. Ya the rag joint should prolly be checked out also.
Your doing good Don but we all agree here your gonna have to learn by yourself.. You might think were mean but like i said in the earlier post your trainable. Some people arent :lol:
Dave :arrow: :wink: :arrow:
Lets stop here a minute and re-cap. (I feel like the news anchor covering a big breaking story). :roll:
1) The steering box is not out of a 58.
2) I checked the three (3) bolts mounting the steering box. All three are so tight I cannot move them.
3) The mounting plate, welded to the frame was recently rewelded. It was done by a professional NHRA chassis builder, he added gussets etc... I am confident in the mounting of the adaptor plate.
4) The rag joint is not looking healthy.
5) I tightened the bolt around the input shaft, this made a huge difference. The steering shaft no longer moves up and down, the bolt that I tightened no longers rubs on the top of the steering box.
6) Don is trainable.
7) Ugly olds cannot type fast.
8) The Tuna boat memorial Cruise-In is cancelled.
9) Dave smells like bondo and has road rash.
Here are things we need to work on...
1) I used the term "flex" when describing the steering box when it is under load, meaning it moves a tiny, tiny bit.. like any mechanical device when its under load. I am gonna have the kid do a little driving in the drive way and in front of the house, while I walk along side and see if it moves.
2) Where do I purchase a rag joint, and I assume that is not the official name of this steering shaft /universal joint/ rubber dampener?
3) Ugly Olds typing skills
4) Dave's showering habits.
Someone was repoping them there rag joints don but i cant remember who it was.. Remember google can be your friend although i couldnt google a good restraunt in woodbridge VA last week but in 30 seconds i found the state liquor store was only a block and 1/2 away.. Imagine that. :lol: 8) :lol: .
Im gonna make an educated guess here that the bolt for the clamp on the rag joint was loose inducing free play both up and down and back and forth in the joint because it wasnt tight on the splines. Dont stand in front of the car with the boy driving and dont * him off before you try this :lol:
I think your on to the root of the problem.
Dave
oh i shower all the time and your still trainable but dont get too smart.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+400574+115+4294815103
Try that link .. made by ididit and sold by summit racing and no i dont know ehat spline your box and shaft has but if you can hold it closer to your monitor ill take a guess.......
if its a 605 replacement box the look here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F-1955-1956-1957-CHEVROLET-RAG-JOINT-FOR-605-STEERING_W0QQitemZ4649127277QQihZ002QQcategoryZ34200QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Dave
Quote1) I used the term "flex" when describing the steering box when it is under load, meaning it moves a tiny, tiny bit.. like any mechanical device when its under load. I am gonna have the kid do a little driving in the drive way and in front of the house, while I walk along side and see if it moves.
The flexing may be in the frame, as it was not originally designed for the loads it is seeing now. It can be fixed if that is the case, but it's a job for a pro.
Quote2) Where do I purchase a rag joint, and I assume that is not the official name of this steering shaft /universal joint/ rubber dampener?
You can get just the rubber part of a rag joint at most auto parts stores, to get the conplete joint, you may have to see a dealer. A common misconception is that a rag joint will act as a Ujoint. They will not last if they are misaligned. They are there to dampen vibration feedback from the steering. If the shaft is misaligned at the steering box, a Ujoint with vibration damper from Borgeson, or Flaming river is a better solution.
Quote3) Ugly Olds typing skills
His real problem is he can't spell. He went to a small country school, and the teacher only knew 11 letters, so that's all he knows. Also, he can only count to 7
Quote4) Dave's showering habits.
No help here.
Hey Don, what was actually done for you by that helpful HAMB'er, a little while back. You remember, wife was out of reach, kid had to be to a new job, you were at a track.............Wasn't there some repair done to the steering? Maybe it was just a temp fix. CRS has settled in.......Frank
Quote from: "slocrow"Hey Don, what was actually done for you by that helpful HAMB'er, a little while back. You remember, wife was out of reach, kid had to be to a new job, you were at a track.............Wasn't there some repair done to the steering? Maybe it was just a temp fix. CRS has settled in.......Frank
As mentioned before, the power steering box that I have on my car is not a 1958 assist.
So welded to the inside of the frame rail is a metal mounting plate and the power steering box is bolted to this plate and through the frame rail.
What happened was that the weld broke along the top of mounting plate and frame. This break allowed the steering box to move all over the place but it stay attached to the frame as the top bolt held.
We unbolted the steering box from the frame and steering shaft then
Rooman, Hamber and professional chassis builder re-welded the mounting plate back to the frame rail, added some gussets and we re-bolted the steering box in place.
Quote from: "msuguydon"Quote from: "slocrow"Hey Don, what was actually done for you by that helpful HAMB'er, a little while back. You remember, wife was out of reach, kid had to be to a new job, you were at a track.............Wasn't there some repair done to the steering? Maybe it was just a temp fix. CRS has settled in.......Frank
As mentioned before, the power steering box that I have on my car is not a 1958 assist.
So welded to the inside of the frame rail is a metal mounting plate and the power steering box is bolted to this plate and through the frame rail.
What happened was that the weld broke along the top of mounting plate and frame. This break allowed the steering box to move all over the place but it stay attached to the frame as the top bolt held.
We unbolted the steering box from the frame and steering shaft then
Rooman, Hamber and professional chassis builder re-welded the mounting plate back to the frame rail, added some gussets and we re-bolted the steering box in place.
Ya ok so lets look at that rag joing and fix it or get a new one or as Frank suggested maybe better to put a regular ujoint in there.. And yes we got the picture thats its not a 58 box so im guessing its a 605..
Get off the computer and get out there and get r fixed.. :lol:
:lol: :arrow: :!: :wink: Dave
Don, looking back at the pictures, it appears to have cracks in the frame near the top of the steering box.
Frank, I think that what you are seeing is the 'boxing' of the frame from the factory; there are actually two layers there. Mine is the same, only has a little more welding done along the joint.
Quote from: "enjenjo"Don, looking back at the pictures, it appears to have cracks in the frame near the top of the steering box.
Good eye Frank im seeing the same thing. :?: :?: :?:
dave
You guys got better eyes than I do...if there is cracking maybe there isn't a crush tube or tubes where needed inside the frame rail. If not, tightening the bolts that go all the way through only crush the frame rail and loosen up because the rail moves in under use.
Charlie
Frank, You looking at the one that is about at the rag joint and appears kind of rusty, or the line that runs out of the small hole about 2 inches in front of the rag joint? I think the rusty one is just a double layer too, but I would be tempted to weld it anyway.
Don, like Charlie says, are there crush sleeves between the 2 sides of the frame where the steering box bolts? Or is the frame drilled and the bolts only go through the plate that you had welded up?
Doug
WOW :shock: :shock: Look at all the letters :!: :!: :!: I'm still working on my rep
I think that the area enjenjo is talking about is this one.
At the right end of the top rectangle, there looks to be a crack that does down the inside of the frame. Also, what they said about the crush sleeves.
I hope everyone had a safe and happy 4th. Lots of rain here, but we did have a chance to grill some steaks and take a dip in the pool!
Spent most the day installing interior windshield and door garnish, man I hate those * interior window felts and the stupid staple attachment .... but the new pieces make the car look NICEer!
Crush tubes, I am no frame guy but there are round openings on the outside of the frame and inside portion of the frame rail. I can reach into them and feel metal material, some of the tubes are bigger, some are smaller, I assume these are crush tubes, if so, they are there.
Cracking... I have done my best to really look at this section of frame, I believe what you are seeing are seams from the 2nd skin. They are all welded in place, I see NOO cracks.
I made an inaccurate statement earlier, the steering box is held in place by 3 bolts, however only one goes through the frame, the top bolt. The others mount to little ears, that are welded in place to the bottom of the frame and to the mounting bracket, this was an area that Rooman added gussets and rewelded in place. The did not break, but he cut them out and added some stuff and re-welded in place.
A "crush tube" is like a piece of pipe that the bolt goes through. It is fastened to the inside of the rectangular sides of the frame so when you tighten up the bolt it prevents you from crushing the one side of the frame to the other. These are not always in the form of a tube but may sometimes be a pre-bent piece of metal that fits in the frame and circles(?) around the bolts in such a way that over-tightening the bolts won't cause one frame rail to get closer to the other. Using those access holes to help guess what's inside the frame might be a fooler. Remove the bolt that goes through the frame and use a wire in that bolt hole to see if there is something in the frame that would guide the bolt to it's target. If you can put the bolt anywhere in a conical direction and have to guide the bolt to the hole in the other side of the and the steering box then there might not be anything there to keep the frame form crushing. Feeling through the access holes might have been confusing if the bolt was still in-place but with the bolt removed you may be able to hazzard a better guess. I do have a few more ideas. If the bolt through the frame is not the proper bolt or the two bolts on the bottom are not right, you might be tightening the bolts til the bolt shank is bottoming in the threaded boss of the steering box. If that is the case then what you're feeling as tight might just be that the bolt ran out of threads. With it having the wrong bolt in the "rag joint" the assembler may have used what "looked right" and it might have been hidden until a problem like this developed. Also the washers are usually of a thicker stock than normal. I apoligize for the "WORDYNESS" but I try to cover all the bases. I'm not an expert but when I try to cover all the bases most people are left with the impression that I don't know anything. GPster
This is what I enjoy about RRT. The help offered to members is outstanding.
While you are under the hood checking out that steering box, you might want to bend that preasure line from the power steering pump so it doesn't rub on the steering box. Looks like it might be doing that when you take the boat out for a cruise. (you can see the marks on the box and hose) As far as that "floating feeling" are your tires inflated properly? How is the alignment? Tie rods? etc. Like the guys said, there should be 0% flex in the box.
Thought I'd drop my two bits :roll:
Good luck.
I have a stupid question....... :oops: Is it me or does the spline on the input shaft of the steering box look striped or am I seeing things? The flex coupling is bolted to this spline.
I am old AND blind so maybe one of you automotive hawk eyes could check it out. :lol:
If I am wrong I will kick my dog as punishment. :shock: