The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: Topsterguy on June 29, 2006, 12:37:55 AM
Okay, on my 32 roadster I've got the usual 39 spindals, GM calipers, and Granada rotors so I have the small Ford pattern. I want to change the disc setup for a good drum setup and have the same bolt pattern for more of the Old time look. Any suggestions on what to use for drums, brakes etc and where to get the pieces would be greatly appreciated! :D
Hooray..........another guy who likes drum brakes. :D :D :D You and I are Dinosaurs, but I hate to see discs on a traditonal rod. I know they work better and all, but I ran '40 Ford brakes on the front of my '27 for years, and it stops on a dime.
Ebay is your source. You will need new spindles (yours have probably been modified to run the discs) you will also need backing plates '39 to '48, shoes hardware and brake drums. I am running Buick drums, and they look great.
Downside is this stuff is getting expensive. You will have to shop wisely, but more and more guys are wanting this "old" stuff, so prices are going up.
You will have to probably change your master cylinder too, to a drum model.
I'd give you more info, but I am late for work.
Don
If swap meets and other local sources don'e work out for Lincoln self-energizing or F-100 brakes and appropriate drums you could go the Wilson Welding in Texas route. He does steel 12" backing plates and new hubs that work with Ford 12" drums or Buick finned. Bob has a web site but I'm not sure how extensive it is.
http://www.wilsonweldingandmachine.com
Bob's a nice guy to work with but moves at a slower pace than most of us.
Charlie
If part of your plan is to go to the '35 Ford 16" wire wheels you will be somewhat stuck with '40 - '48 drums or Lincoln stuff to use those wheels, It takes a drum with a hat to bolt those wheels to. If you're just going with steel wheels then the stup might be for early ('49 -"56) Ford 1/2 ton trucks. They only have 11" drums but are of the self-energizing type. GPster
As always, I knew I could get good answers! Thanks Folks! Larry
I wanted to touch on this the other AM, but I was running for work. Depending on what your ultimate goals are, the brake kits sold by So Cal speed shop aren't a horrible deal anymore. They sell for like $ 1600.00, and are actually disc brakes enclosed in a setup that looks like finned Buick drums. I saw a car at Daytona last fall that had these, and they looked really old timey and nice.
Now, admittedly, this isn't cheap, but even stock Ford stuff is starting to go through the roof. The rat rod/ traditional craze has made them suddenly desirable. For example, a set of backing plates with set you back about $ 125-$ 150 a pair, stock drums will cost about the same, Buicks will go for about $ 200 to $ 300. Then you have to rebuild everything, so shoes and wheel cylinders will be another # 250 to $ 300., then you need to have the drums turned and new wheel bearings installed, another $ 150.00 for all that. When you are done, you are real close to the SoCal setup.
I.ve been squirreling these setups away for future projects, buying them on ebay when they are mislisted or otherwise overlooked, but I can see the handwriting on the wall as the prices are starting to really climb.
But, if you are patient, and shop wisely, you can put these together with a little savings. However, you have to be careful, as you sometimes will get unusable junk instead of good parts, especially on Ebay. I've been burned a few times, just part of the game of dealing in 65 year old parts, I guess.
Good luck.
Don
Quote from: "donsrods"But, if you are patient, and shop wisely, you can put these together with a little savings. However, you have to be careful, as you sometimes will get unusable junk instead of good parts, especially on Ebay. I've been burned a few times, just part of the game of dealing in 65 year old parts, I guess.Good luck.Don
This is something I did back in the '70s (before the Asbestos deal) that you may be able to pull off if you find someone to do it. There is a limit as to how far you can turn brake drums but that limit is taking into account the diameter of the new shoes. I did a set of the early brakes one time and had to go oversize on the drum turning to get them to clean up. I was not concerned because there was still plenty of meat on the drums and it was a fairly light car (might be a good deal on a Model A hydralic brake upgrade). The old brake shoes were riveted on so I just had thicker linings riveted on and the had the linings radius ground to the drums. This worked well for me for 4 years and probably for another 5 years while the car was still owned by someone local. Another little tidbit. '41 to '47 1/2 ton truck backing plates havethe lower anchor pivits that are excentric and bolt on. These excentrics allow you to tune-in the the shoes to the drums if you want one more thing to play with. GPster
Find a guy who put a volare front end under their 53 f-100 and offer to dispose of the old brakes. I got lucky and knew a guy who did just that. He gave me the old brakes. Got new raybestos drums and all new guts for em. Uesed the backing plates and whatnot. My car stops very nicely.
Quote from: "Nick32vic"Find a guy who put a volare front end under their 53 f-100 and offer to dispose of the old brakes. I got lucky and knew a guy who did just that. He gave me the old brakes. Got new raybestos drums and all new guts for em. Uesed the backing plates and whatnot. My car stops very nicely.
If you go back to the early F100s ('48 - ?) get tha spindles too. The kingpins are the same diameter as the early Fords and the whole spidle can be used. The are set-up for drag link steering but with some playing around can be used for cross steer. GPster
Great stuff! Thanks again guys! :D