The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: tomslik on November 26, 2005, 09:01:40 PM
i think i'm gonna try some of this stuff on a couple of frames, anything i should be aware of?
rough idea on how much to buy?
what's it take, about a quart for each frame?
pint?
anybody?
I would do it outside, as the fumes can kill you. I used it on my Poncho frame; didn't stick in a couple places, could've been my fault. You might also want to put bolts in the threaded holes, as you won't get the bolts in later if you get the paint in the threads. The drilled holes may also get smaller, so watch it if they're tight to begin with. Wear gloves, etc, and put papers or something on the floor.
I bought a gallon, can't remember the shelf life after the can is opened. I put a plastic bag on the can before reinstalling the lid. Be sure to keep the lid channel clean. After about a 1/2 gallon was gone, I opened the can later, and there was a very thick scum on top that was pretty hard. Cut it out, and used the liquid below with good results.
BTW, after doing the 41 frame, Ford rearend and Nova sub, I've used about 2 to 3 quarts.
What Phil was trying to say....is this stuff can be messy. If you get it on your skin, you will have to wear it off. It will even go through bluejeans! Happened to a friend of mine. And you thought this was going to be one of those...like the country song says..."Don't ask me how I know."
Quote from: "58 Yeoman"I would do it outside, as the fumes can kill you. I
did you spray it or brush it on?
used it on my Poncho frame; didn't stick in a couple places, could've been my fault. You might also want to put bolts in the threaded holes, as you won't get the bolts in later if you get the paint in the threads. The drilled holes may also get smaller, so watch it if they're tight to begin with. Wear gloves, etc, and put papers or something on the floor.
I bought a gallon, can't remember the shelf life after the can is opened. I put a plastic bag on the can before reinstalling the lid. Be sure to keep the lid channel clean. After about a 1/2 gallon was gone, I opened the can later, and there was a very thick scum on top that was pretty hard. Cut it out, and used the liquid below with good results.
BTW, after doing the 41 frame, Ford rearend and Nova sub, I've used about 2 to 3 quarts.
kinda thinking about buying it in the 4 1quart package but did any of you guys topcoat it?
I used it on the underside of the running boards and fenders, then undercoated over it. I'f used both por 15 and the stuff Eastwood sells. My stuff is only a couple of years old so I wouldn't qualify for an expert. I brushed on some of the POR, sprayed some and sprayed the Eastwood.
I didnt notice any fumes! I would not spray it! Defenetly ware gloves and paper on the floor! If you spill on the lid sealing ring and replace lid and dont cleal it up, you will DESTROY the can trying to get it open again! If you can dip down into the can and get it out. A pint goes a long way! This stuff is like water.
Tom, I brushed it on. It says on the can that you should use POR15 topcoat on it; I don't know if anything else will stick to it or not. I bought the gallon can as it was 'cheaper' at about $90. I think it was George that posted on here about the fumes being very dangerous, even while drying.
First off, it won't stick good to clean metal, old paint, or anything else that isn't rust, including itself on a second coat.
It can be top coated with just about anything, but if you don't want to sand it, very difficult, you should at least prime it within 24 hours. After 24 hours, it should be sanded thoroughly. If it is going to be exposed to the sun, recoat it with something, it is not UV safe.
I've switched to Rust Bullet, similar applications, but no need for sanding up to 6 months for recoat, you can fill over it, it will stick to clean metal, and old paint, and about the same price.
you are better off buying 4 quarts, than a gallon, unless you are going to use it all at one time. Neither one, Rust Bullet, or POR 15 keeps well once the can is opened.
Quote from: "enjenjo"First off, it won't stick good to clean metal, old paint, or anything else that isn't rust, including itself on a second coat.
It can be top coated with just about anything, but if you don't want to sand it, very difficult, you should at least prime it within 24 hours. After 24 hours, it should be sanded thoroughly. If it is going to be exposed to the sun, recoat it with something, it is not UV safe.
I've switched to Rust Bullet, similar applications, but no need for sanding up to 6 months for recoat, you can fill over it, it will stick to clean metal, and old paint, and about the same price.
where might i find rust bullet?
how's it with UV ?
any cheaper than POR-15?
the UV bit probably not a big issue but i think this gmc is gonna geta flatbed and a little of the frame might be exposed.
whatcha think?
you are better off buying 4 quarts, than a gallon, unless you are going to use it all at one time. Neither one, Rust Bullet, or POR 15 keeps well once the can is opened.
there is a guy selling it on EBay. the price is about the same as POR15.
I second the need to top coat. It will get chalky after a little sun
exposure.
Is the rust bullet an encapsulator or an inhibitor?
A lot of times I paint the frame with plain rustoleum, cheap and effective.
I use Rust Bullet instead of POR for a few reasons. You can paint directly on bare metal, it's UV resistant (doesn't chalk), you can top coat it with most any kind of paint without prep after 24 hrs and up to 72 hrs, it's just as tough as POR, and it's cheaper in the long run because you don't need all the "System" stuff POR wants to sell you. Check the FAQ's and other info on their website http://www.rustbullet.com/ . I got some from Amazon.com recently. I think it was $32/qt. It sprays good but there are isocyanates so use a respirator....same as POR.
Some of the por15 doesn't chalk just have to buy the right stuff
Here is a tech tip in a pinch you can use it instead of fibreglass laminating resin paint on add some fibre paint over works great for small repairs
make sure what you are applying to is free of old paint. will not last long over a painted surface.must be down to metal.
Ed.
POR-15 also makes a top coat that is UV resistant. It sprays like an enamel, and it gets very hard. Then you can buff the bejesus out of it.
I used it successfully on my suspension parts:
(http://www.classicroad.com/modelA/parts.JPG)