The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: GPster on May 24, 2020, 04:41:37 PM
I put a 1992 S10 tilt column in the Jeepster. The Jeepster is wired with an '87 S10 harness. The tilt column's directional signal switch is bad. The '92 column had the high/low beam switch mechanism, cruise control and windshield wiper switches are also in the directional signal wand. Is there a simple switch that will fit this column? What years? GPster
The turn signal switch itself is the same switch used by most GM cars from 1978 on. All that monkey motion is in the handle mechanism. If you get rid off al the handle stuff, you should be able to install one of the old style handles on it.
Well the switch is not bad. I have installed new (I've had them probably 25 years) trailer type tail lights on the Jeepster and after proving the switch's correct function and checking the wiring's continuity to the rear end of the car's body I took the lenses off the lights to find the bulbs bad and the sockets corroded. After correcting that problem and having the tail lights work it lessened the amount of wiring problems. One quick question. Because the wiring harness is from the S15 donor truck it originally had side lights in the circuit. Those have been eliminated but the flasher is still the original one. The correct lights come on but they don't flash. Would that be because the reduction of the load on the switch is less because the number of lights is less? If so can someone give me a part number for a flasher that might work? Now I will try to get the indicator light to work in the instrument panel. GPster
Quote from: "GPster"Well the switch is not bad. I have installed new (I've had them probably 25 years) trailer type tail lights on the Jeepster and after proving the switch's correct function and checking the wiring's continuity to the rear end of the car's body I took the lenses off the lights to find the bulbs bad and the sockets corroded. After correcting that problem and having the tail lights work it lessened the amount of wiring problems. One quick question. Because the wiring harness is from the S15 donor truck it originally had side lights in the circuit. Those have been eliminated but the flasher is still the original one. The correct lights come on but they don't flash. Would that be because the reduction of the load on the switch is less because the number of lights is less? If so can someone give me a part number for a flasher that might work? Now I will try to get the indicator light to work in the instrument panel. GPster
I do not remember that the side marker lights flashed as part of the emergency flasher circuit. I am going with a bad or incomplete ground on this one. I would check that first and in the mean time I will roll this around inside my empty head some. There are light load flashers that can be bought at most auto supply stores. They are often used when converting to led lights.
You need a solid state flasher, like this https://www.amazon.com/Dewhel-0-02A-10A-Electronic-Flasher-Signal/dp/B07JFPXM21/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_2/130-3645662-0311910?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JFPXM21&pd_rd_r=45f63aa0-3bfb-4c6e-9623-776a8631ecf4&pd_rd_w=RYsEp&pd_rd_wg=ZZn1W&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=HX6CYVAHWHNNG90K8DYG&psc=1&refRID=HX6CYVAHWHNNG90K8DYG
But I do agree to check the grounds first.
Well the new bulbs and cleaning the light sockets fixed the rear lights. Then I started having trouble with the front lights. That took me by surprise because I had put in new sockets and new bulbs in there. The problem that I had found previously is that normal bulbs would not fit behind the panel light lenses so I had used special short bulbs. The combination worked during testing but when those bulbs started failing when put under duress. I put regular bulbs in those sockets and everything started working and the directional signals started to work. I now have headlight both high and low beams, panel lights and tail lights and turn signals but nothing on my instrument panel or gauges. What it looks like is the printed circuit is folded and messed up. I don't know what I'll do about it yet. I may just install after-market gauges and hard wire the gas gauge or look for another dash panel. I was trying to get the thing drive able to make a cruise-in this weekend ( I'll wear a mask) and what I have may be just enough. GPster
Well yesterday was spent trying to get it across the street and then trying to get it back home (see post in 2020 happenings). When I got it back home after the thunder storm I just left it in the driveway. Came inside and Linda told me that the "Cruise In" had been canceled due to virus restrictions. Well it's back in the garage now,it ran so rich that it hurt my eyes in the enclosed space. It's been so long since I've played mechanic that I forgot that it has a computer and I have a reader. Three more weeks til the Lyon's club car show. Maybe I can get it to run long enough to get it there, it's only three blocks.. Maybe it will happen, different state different rules. GPster
Quote from: "GPster"I now have headlight both high and low beams, panel lights and tail lights and turn signals but nothing on my instrument panel or gauges. What it looks like is the printed circuit is folded and messed up. I don't know what I'll do about it yet. I may just install after-market gauges and hard wire the gas gauge or look for another dash panel. I was trying to get the thing drive able to make a cruise-in this weekend ( I'll wear a mask) and what I have may be just enough. GPster
Well, I now have after-market gauges (but a small oil leak on the oil line). I also have lights on the gauges but still nothing on the instrument panel. Spliced into the plug that went to the panel but didn't cut any wires. I'll just keep my eyes open for another instrument panel, maybe one with no gauges (the wiring says they had them). I might "gut" the panel I have now and "hard wire" the gas gauge because it and the "speedo" are all I need (I never had either in my model A). This virus has created more time for me to work but the sun makes it hard to work in a metal building. The virus made them call off the Fathers Day car show and the other day they canceled the Sternwheel Festival so I'm not any further behind. The fact that the engine was quitting and it hurt my eyes when it was running in the garage might have been due to the choke valve connections had come un-plugged from the air cleaner. I didn't run it long enough to see because of the leak in the gauge's oil line at the engine. GPster
Quote from: "GPster"The fact that the engine was quitting and it hurt my eyes when it was running in the garage might have been due to the choke valve connections had come un-plugged from the air cleaner. I didn't run it long enough to see because of the leak in the gauge's oil line at the engine. GPster
Well Today it ran and didn't stop. The choke connection must have been the problem. I put probably about 3 miles on it over brick roads (not Indy), pot holes, parking lots, park areas and rail road sidings and boy is it noisy. I got it fast enough to hear the transmission shift. It might need some power steering pump work because it was real noisy in a hard turn, but seemed to quiet down the more I drove. The mechanical water temp gauge showed 200 degrees and didn't seem to go any higher. That may be due to where I had to put the bulb for the gauge in the by-pass/intake manifold heat system under the thermostat (whatever temp it is). Sometimes it sounds like the fan is hitting something, but I haven't even raised the hood yet. It's just sitting out on the street in front of my house so it knows where it's supposed to rest and maybe it's posing for a picture. GPster
Here's what we look like being still. GPster
Anytime they're out of the shop and on the road is good. :)
Great news GPster you have been at it a long time . nice to see it on the road.
A long road, but you made it to the end. I'm proud of you Joe.
Outstanding! That's a good day!
It's always a good feeling to get the first ride! :D
Well I raised the hood this morning and all I can see is maybe the engine fan is maybe hitting the radiator support. The radiator sits in front of the support but the fan is only about a 1/4" behind the support. There's a 2 1/4" thick spacer between the fan and the water pump pulley and there is nothing on the front of the engine that would not let me use a thinner spacer. I must have just put it together with what I had laying around because the engine originally had a clutch fan on it. Are all the water pumps the same bolt circle on the flange or is it early model or late model? the engine is an "87 2.5L Iron Duke four cylinder and none of the stuff I had laying around would have been for anything but a small block Chevy. But early or late would be the question. I'd have to pull the radiator to measure it but then I'd have to put it back together un-fixed to be able to drive it until I found the part. GPster
Do you have a close by friend who can use a lathe to shorten the spacer?
That water pump is 87 to 93 in the s10 and some other models. If you can measure the bolt patter I can go through my spacers and find one for you. No charge, you have done enough for me.
Thats just pretty neat. A long road but you made it.
With Bonneville going on this week, I remembered you giving me the VW engine blocks to take to the bonfire at the bend in the road. They don't do that anymore.
Good job Joe.
I remember the Bonneville bonfires.
:D :D
Hope to see all of you soon.
Quote from: "enjenjo"If you can measure the bolt patter I can go through my spacers and find one for you.
I must have forgot as I must have pulled it off a working vehicle. It has metric bolts and they are the correct length As best as I can measure it the bolts are on a 1 7/8" radius. With the Jeepster out of the garage I'm able to find stuff that I forgot I had. I found one that is "one size fits all" that probably came with a fiberglass flex fan. I'll get some bolts and try it but I can't find any shiny places on the fan that would indicate that it's hitting something, so it might be something else. It" when it's moving and it doesn't have any count that matches what's happening. Oh well nothing's right the first time. GPster
Joe, Congratulations on the maiden voyage! Working the bugs out is all part of the journey. It usually teaches new words for our automotive vocabulary!
Quote from: "GPster"Quote from: "enjenjo"If you can measure the bolt patter I can go through my spacers and find one for you.
As best as I can measure it the bolts are on a 1 7/8" radius. With the Jeepster out of the garage I'm able to find stuff that I forgot I had. I found one that is "one size fits all" that probably came with a fiberglass flex fan. Oh well nothing's right the first time.
GPster
I have spent days doing other things and I had put the belt back on today but it came right off so I put it back on . Came off again and it's a new belt. I still had the old belt so I put it on and it came off too. I had not tried it after I moved the fan with the different spacer from my stock. The spacer I had and the new position of the fan must have been the cause for the belt jumping off. Of course I didn't even raise the hood when it started right up the day I took it out of quarantine. It seems like I'm not doing much right these days only seeing with one eye and hearing with one ear it's bad when you only have half a brain.So the spacer for the fan I would need has four bolt hole about 1 3/8" apart, on a radius of 1 15/16" with the centers being 5/8". The original spacer is 2 1/4" so something 1 1/2" to 2" would be helpful. I'm going to put my original one back on and see if I still have a problem with the belt jumping off.It's still in my driveway but it has plates on it but someone probably thinks I'm trashing up the neighborhood with me working on it in plain sight but it's cooler under a tree than in my garage. All for now. GPster
I'll take a look tomorrow.
I have both 1 1/2 and 2". let me know and I'll send it.
The problem that I found with the after market fan spacer made me cautious about the pieces that I originally put together . That plus the fact that it looks like most of the S10s had clutch fans (this one did) I was more cautious when I put it back together with my original choice of parts. It seems that the flange on my water pump and the fan spacer that I used also may have interfered with each other. I just happen to have a 5/8" drill bit so I provided the extra clearance to the assembly. It bolted together better than I have ever seen and the only connection I could think of with it throwing the belt before was the noise from the power steering pump. The noisy pump while working the steering while the car was sitting in place didn't give me a thrown belt. I'll make a decision about changing what I have after I have a chance to drive it again but if I feel the need for change it would be with the 2" one. I don't have a fan shroud but if I need one it would still keep the fan/shroud as a simple deal. GPster
Okay.