The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: kb426 on August 25, 2019, 05:45:52 PM
I'm starting a thread just in case this develops into something worth discussing. :) Today I ran a compression test of the 5.0 engine after having it running a few days ago. 7 cylinders with 145lbs. I with zero. Not 60, not 20, zero. I connected the leakdown meter and can hear air passing both valves. I'm hoping that I can pull a head and find a simple repair. The od has 114,000 miles on it. I don't know if it works or not. :) The 145lbs is higher than most of these I have worked on so I'm hoping the cylinders are round and not scuffed up. I may end up replacing bearings and the oil pump because of it having been upside down and surely running some before the inertia switch shutting off the engine. I found out the drive shaft was bent also. I have something of a plan but I'm going to wait until teardown to see what I have to work with before saying much.
Aw come on... try it IDJ-style and blab it all to the world! :)
Then, of course... follow through! :arrow:
Once again at O&S I turned a 2 hour job into about 7. :) The chassis is stripped except for the fuel pump. The rear has been removed, all the wiring is removed and the engine and trans is removed. When I started removing grease to find the bolts, I found the wiring to the o2 sensor. The pig tail was pulled from the sensor and was stuck in the grim under the engine. I don't know if every gasket leaks or they couldn't hit the filler when adding oil. It's been a while since I worked on anything this dirty.
Quote from: "kb426"Once again at O&S I turned a 2 hour job into about 7. :) The chassis is stripped except for the fuel pump. The rear has been removed, all the wiring is removed and the engine and trans is removed. When I started removing grease to find the bolts, I found the wiring to the o2 sensor. The pig tail was pulled from the sensor and was stuck in the grim under the engine. I don't know if every gasket leaks or they couldn't hit the filler when adding oil. It's been a while since I worked on anything this dirty.
Hey ...Just like Detroit Diesel ...Leaking oil is the best rust-proofing .... :roll: :roll: :lol:
Bob.. :wink:
The Harbor Freight looking trailer has a full load on it.
I finished stripping the chassis and took it to it's next resting place. No longer my mess. :)
This is why there was no compression on 1 cylinder. This engine looks like it didn't have the best of oil change intervals. Not terrible but not good. I found one bolt in the flexplate that was cross threaded. There are signs that some of it has been worked on before. I am concerned about the quality of work performed. :)
Do you think the previous work performed was on the bottom end of the engine? That could be a mess if it comes apart at speed..
It's going to get looked at. I trust nothing when it comes to engines. :)
Quote from: "kb426"I am concerned about the quality of work performed. :)
That made me smile.
I disassembled most of the rest of the engine today. I haven't pulled the cam but everything else is out. Here's the synopsis: the engine had been hot before. It had a fairly recent radiator on it. They might have considered doing that before they got the engine hot. There was scuffing on one side of the pistons. It had run for some time since that occurred. The bearings are wore as a high mileage engine. It's had dirt run through the bottom and some scratching on the crank and in the bearings. The cylinders have inbetween 1.5 and 2 thou of taper. They look better than the pistons. The crank measures round. I threw the heads in the vat with out disassembling them because they were so nasty. The side with the valve out is the one that was worked on. The valve heights are so off from one to another that I'm surprised there wasn't more burnt valves. They had cut the exhaust off because they thought the converter was plugged. Because of the noise, I couldn't have heard the valve noise. There's some place between .060 to .100" difference in valve stem heights. A couple of lifters should have been talking pretty good. There was some sludge in the pan but not bad for the condition of the outside of the engine. :) I don't have a plan yet. It cost less to think so that's what will happen for a while. I have more to inspect to make a decision properly. However, I have quite a few parts laying around that would allow for a nice engine to be built with another pile of money added to it. :)
Seems like money is always added to projects. Helps make them more fun. #sarcasm
O&S had a little more discovery today. I disassembled the heads, vatted the crank and a bunch of bolts. I'm not sure the crank will polish up but the head with the dead cylinder has 2 problems. I don't know the order of happenstance. The dead cylinder has a crack between the valve seats, Who ever thought they were a head man ground the seats down about 80 to 100 thou. That would have taken all the clearance out of the lifters. The 2 pics are of the damaged cylinder and another to show the difference. Back to thinking. :)
I spent more time cleaning this afternoon. The block is starting to look like cast iron. :) I'm not finished but close. Just a few small spots that are left. Big pile of grease carried to the dumpster.
Just remember to use a soup can for your bearing shims. If they had changed oil more frequently, beer can might work but I think soup for this puppy.
You are souping it up, aren't you? :lol:
Seriously... more mess than you bargained for, build but with lowered expectations,,, what do you think? Scrap heap or drag strip hero?
There's an experiment looming in the future. I think it will be interesting enough to warrant watching this most boring progress. :)
Quote from: "kb426"There's an experiment looming in the future. I think it will be interesting enough to warrant watching this most boring progress. :)
Not so "boring" to me, I could stand to watch a bunch of this. 8) Much to be learned from your experience, expertise, and experiments. Keep it coming. :)
Im gonna bet you are done this one before bob's A or my T :lol: :oops:
I spent part of the afternoon cleaning parts. The block is clean until it's time for assembly. All the bolt holes are cleaned and retapped. The broken bolts are removed from the block I think you'll like this creativity. :) I threw the oil pan in the vat. The 2 pics are of the inside and outside. When I drained the oil, I knew there would be a story. The inside shot shows a rethreading plug that was large enough that the bottom half of the plate-nut was broke off. They left the plug in and drilled the center of it. Then there was a nut braised over the top of the plug to the side of the pan. There was a small fine thread plug in the end on it. The orifice was small enough that it took a substantial amount of time to drain the oil. The pan is going to get modded for the experiment. :)
hmmmm, the engine had a few oil changes at Walmart ?
I had a neighbor with a 1 ton GM truck , Big Block engine , cast aluminum pan.. His son borrowed the truck. Son had the truck serviced at Walmart as a favor to his dad. LOL Walmart guys Cross threaded the drain plug. This was near 20 yrs ago... I was told the pan replacement at GM dealer cost Walmart near 700 dollars.
After lunch, I returned to the land of nasty and ugly. The crank is polished. I cleaned pistons and valves. Then I cleaned up the mess. :)
Some of you will enjoy this. :) It got up to 72 degrees today. I had the roll around engine stand outside removing the chevy mounts getting ready for the sbf. I rolled it inside and rolled the block outside to do some de-burring. In the bright sun, I saw places that weren't clean. I knocked all the plugs and cam bearings out of it and took it to the vat. It was obvious to me that my best efforts weren't going to be good enough. In the morning, I'll pull a clean block from the vat. :)
Quote from: "kb426"Some of you will enjoy this. :) It got up to 72 degrees today. I had the roll around engine stand outside removing the chevy mounts getting ready for the sbf. I rolled it inside and rolled the block outside to do some de-burring. In the bright sun, I saw places that weren't clean. I knocked all the plugs and cam bearings out of it and took it to the vat. It was obvious to me that my best efforts weren't going to be good enough. In the morning, I'll pull a clean block from the vat. :)
Sounds like buffing. :roll: Don't we wish there was a vat for that. :idea:
Resume next to Godliness :arrow:
O&S was at it early this morning. I retrieved the block from the vat so it would be out of the way of "working people". :) After it warmed up, I repaired the damaged oil pan. I'm out of sequence with what I did today but it got up to 74 degrees. I painted the block, oil pan, heads and valve covers. I'm going to throw the front cover in the alum. vat and leave it natural. I'll have to be careful from here on but the weather forecast shows the cold returning.
weather wise: Tuesday was windy , rainy & cold here in Arizona.. Wednesday is suppose to be the same or worse. This stuff may be headed your way. I'd suggest a nice holiday sweater for yourself.
Working some the last two days. Expansion plugs installed and it looks like a short block. :) The logic is that an assembled engine takes up less space than parts spread all over the shop. :) If the weatherman is correct, I won't work for a couple of days. I have a plan to modify the engine stand, now. O&S speed at a normal cold weather pace. :)
so , the bottom end was good shape... the heads junk ? Camshaft?
Tony, most of the internals are being reused. I'm repairing the head to be able to complete my experiment. This block is roller era but wasn't drilled for the lifter spider. I installed a roller cam and lifters to see if there was any other work needed. I installed the original cam that is needed to make the efi work. When the test is completed, I have lots of other parts that may end up on this engine. It would need a good rotating assembly to make use of the heads and cam that I have. Time will tell how this ends up. :)
I discovered a problem at the end of yesterday. I was tired so I quit after that. It was bothering me so I turned on the heat and went to work this am. I found 2 problems. The front cam bearing seemed to be egg shaped towards the rear of the engine. I used a razor and removed just a little material in 2 places about an 1/8" wide. I put the cam back in and everything seemed good. I bolted on the cam gear and the engine locked up. It turns out that the new cam gear is 12 thousandths shorter on the spacer part that goes through the cam plate. The old gear showed almost no wear so I re-installed it. End of that problem. Cam plug, rear seal and front cover are installed with the pan and pump. I had polished the end of the crank so the seal repair sleeve went on real nice. I put the balancer in the lathe and cleaned the snout on it. Those repair sleeves sure go on clean surfaces nice. :) The good head is assembled. The repair on the other one is next on the list. O&S and out. :)
O&S at it's finest. :) I visited the scrap pile for some materials to make mounts for the engine stand. This was a big block chevy irrigation engine stand. I reused the rear mounts. The block will have long studs put in those 2 holes to fasten the block to the stand and the bellhousing to the block. I had some pieces of 2x4 rectangle tube that was collecting rust. I reused the original mounts that I had made for the 32. There's a flathead biscuit on each side. I have plenty of room on the front for the water pump and drive. I have entirely too much in this today. Around 4 hours! :)
Engine mounts and brackets look Yuge in the photos
Tony, the bolt location is about 1 inch farther out from the stock explorer mount. I extended them to cover the biscuit that everyone uses. I found a broken bolt twice. That's when I removed this and built a different style on mount. I found out the cobra guys were using a Dodge 6 cylinder mount on each side. That was the basis of the replacement. That was years ago and no more broken bolts. :)
Even though it got cold, I decided that I would heat the shop and get some more work accomplished. Please do not forget the head repair is only supposed to last long enough for some experiments. :) I used the burnt valve stem to make a pilot. I put the head in the mill and leveled it. I used an offset boring bar to cut and lower the new seat areas. Not near good enough for long term but there is a crack in there. :) The valves I used are from a gt40p head. They are a little larger than the truck which also is also the same size as a standard mustang gt. As near as I can tell, the truck and mustang share the same small port head. Because the head bolts were of unknown origin, I bought some studs to use. The factory bolts are torque to yield and can be reused three times but who knows what this engine has been through. :) Today's stopping point has the heads on, valve gear on and pushrod clearance checked, distributor in the hole to check the new o-ring and valve covers on just for dust protection.
just curious..
when you install the rockers on that ford engine... did you check the lifter preload by holding the rocker arm open and checking that the gap is between 0.090 and 0.190" if its less than 0.090.. you need to shim the pedestals.. if its more than 0.190... you need to grind the base off the pedestal fulcrum.. or change it as its worn where the rocker arm pivots..
check your manual for the exact numbers.. those are what i use on many fords..
0.060 and -0.060" pushrods are also available for many fords but you knew that. sometimes they are +.030 and -.030..
i have not looked up a 302 pushrod set..
somebody came up with starter mounts for various fords... this is a 428FE from several years back overloading my phone mic..
Wayne, I measured inbetween the pushrod cup and the retainer in the lifter at tdc on each cylinder. Easy with the intake off. :)
O&S decided that it would be better to heat the shop this afternoon rather than in a few days after it gets colder. I took my speedhandle and primed the oil system. I cranked until all the pushrods were oiling. The intake hadn't been cleaned yet. I brushed and scrubbed until it less offensive. :) It won't be on long for the 1st part of my experiment. Happy Thanksgiving, everybody! :)
KB, is there a reason you don't run the factory headers for that engine? They used to available in every salvage yard. Just asking to add to my post count. :)
Dave, this is a truck engine and that's what was on it. In my part of the world, there are no mustang parts in the salvage yards. The last set I used on the rolling dumpster, I paid more than I thought was fair and had to weld a crack before I could use them. When my experiment is completed, there will be decisions to be made about the future of this engine. I thought about buying some headers but I can adapt to these headers fairly easy to run some pipes and maybe some kind of mufflers.
I was looking on ebay for a bellhousing and came upon a plate to bolt the starter to the back of the block. I went to the metal pile and got a piece large enough to build the plate. I have the plate cut out, starter adapted to it and obstacles appeared. The right rear engine support was hitting in several places. I trimmed several spots but I can see that I will have to remove the engine to trim some more. I may have to remove part of the mount and do something different. It's getting dark so I quit. :)
At really O&S, I spent a couple of hours in the garage. The starter is on and looks operational. I thought I could thread the tube in the 2nd pic under the top of the intake manifold. Wrong, exhaust breath. :) It wasn't a big job to remove the top of the intake. I ran the injector harness while I had it off. The top is bolted back on. I did a quick fab job of some exhaust extensions to point the noise in the same direction.
Last fall when I had this running, I had to hot wire the fuel pump. The relay was full of water and I didn't have a spare. They are unique. This afternoon, I ran all the wiring and connected the fuel pumps. The fuel pump relay didn't energize. I hot wired the pump and let it run. It won't build up enough pressure to open the regulator. Either that or the regulator has a problem. I primed the engine and it fired. It was getting dark so I cleaned up the mess and quit. I'll trace the wiring to the relay and see if I can find a problem next. If that checks out good, the problem can be the ecu. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail that makes it simple to check fuel pressure. After those 2 items are addressed, I should be able to complete my experiment. The weather is supposed to change the next few days so I'm done for a while.
Without knowing how the wiring harness works, I'll just mention something a friend of mine discovered the hard way with a baby Blazer. After 2 weeks of effort to diagnose a side job after work he discovered the fuel pump had been hotwired to a keyed terminal on the fuse box. He knew the fuel pump would run and shut off, he knew it built fuel pressure so he assumed all was well.
Totally out of ideas (and this guy is GOOD at diagnostics) he figured out that supplying the fuel pump from a source other than intended in the harness was the problem. The ECM believed the fuel pump wasn't drawing power. Since no fuel was being pumped it made no effort to fire the engine. I don't recall if this was with the key in start, run, or both positions.
I played a little more today. Fuel pump, problem no.1: I had a new pump that I bought for the 51 that I hadn't used, yet. I purchased that because all the Mustang's electrics quit as you might remember. :) I connected that and powered up the system. Still no power from the ecu. By using my manual relay, the pump runs and ran fuel out the bypass. Now I have fuel pressure. I connected a bypass on the neutral safety wiring going to the trans so now I can use the ignition switch to crank it. It won't fire the injectors. The system has to receive a signal from the pip sensor in the distributor to tell the ecu that the engine is turning over. I'm using my spare tested distributor for the 32 in this. I check the wiring from the ecu to the fuel pump relay. Continuity on both poles to energize the relay. I'm back to the ecu. I run the ecu number and eventually figure out that it fits a 1989 Bronco with the 351. :) I'm pretty sure that the ecu has problems. It won't spit out codes on my code reader. It's time to decide how much money to throw in the pit. LOL I primed the engine again and it fires instantly and runs ok.
The used ecu arrived today. The fuel pump is energized now. It still won't run without priming. The next item will be to remove the fuel rails and swap the injectors for another set I have. In retrospect, when I had it running last fall, something wasn't correct. My guess is the injectors are plugged. This will be fairly simple to accomplish.
I have swapped the injectors. The originals looked very poor. Still no fuel. Today I dug out the breakout box I purchased after I had the 32 running. I found one that was cheap and thought if I have one, I should never need one. :) Today I plugged it in. No voltage at the injectors. That devise makes it easy. :) I spend a couple of hours tracing wiring. I found a ground that wasn't connected but there is a short on the positive side somewhere. I was mentally tired enough that I quit. After putting up all the stuff, I had an idea where to start next. Because this never did work properly, I'm still in "diagnostic " mode. I'll be looking for parts failure and wiring complications. This has been a drawn out affair compared to the others I've done. The good news is that it has complete failure. That's better than intermittent. :)
What you are describing sounds a lot like the reason I run carburetors and a distributor. :)
Good luck with the search.
I worked on this for a few hours today. I'm at the point of doing research to verify what it appears the computer has to do. Everything I did today pointed to a failure in the computer. I plugged the original unit in that wouldn't activate the fuel pump and got the same result. I don't think it's probable to have 2 computers with the same fault. Thinking time ahead. :)
Yes, I agree. Complete failure is better than one that comes & goes... then some.
I had a GMC truck 1973 with intermentant electrical problem : No run or stuttering - then quitting... I crawled into the engine bay one evening with the engine runnin (454) .. I started pulling, moving , shaking wire harnesses. Found it. Harness than ran across the firewall. It had rubbed thru in a couple spots , shorting out power , but not blowing fuses.
I spent several hours working on the engine harness this afternoon. I put the harness on a large table to have straight runs to trace. I went over every circuit on the engine and found nothing. Next, I'm going to run power through each 12v. circuit with out the computer plugged in to see if there's something that I can't see with eyesight. The brain is tired so I quit for the day. :)
FINALLY! :)
Quote from: "kb426"FINALLY! :)
I am guessing . You found a problem in the harness or ecm?
Quote from: "Crosley"Quote from: "kb426"FINALLY! :)
I am guessing . You found a problem in the harness or ecm?
He's one of those guys Tony, he's not gonna tell us. :D
Harness. After running it a little, I got curious and plugged in the original ecu. It will now run the pump circuit. This caused me to be more curious. I went and got the original distributor that had the tfi unit I had replaced. I put the original unit in and it started instantly and worked properly. I looked at the instrument panel and had no oil pressure. I pull the distributor to check the drive shaft and it's as it should be. I install the unit and start it up. No oil pressure again. I twist the connector on the sender and have a reading. I probably should have checked that 1st but because I had just pulled the distributor, I thought I may have screwed up, again. LOL I swept up almost 1/2 gallon of dirt that came out of the harness. I had to wash most wires to see what color they were. :) I'm not sure the adventure is finished. :)
Frank posted while I was typing. Not a fast process. Not too many secrets in my world. I screw up all the time and with all the pics I put up, everyone knows it. :)
Quote from: "kb426"Frank posted while I was typing. Not a fast process. Not too many secrets in my world. I screw up all the time and with all the pics I put up, everyone knows it. :)
Hey I resemble that remark! :lol:
Its alive. I smell victory. 8)
try not to use any mustang parts ! :lol:
Ladies & Gentlemen, the adventure continues! :) Nothing fits. If you are surprised, go to the back of the room and be quiet. :) I have 4 areas that I'm aware of that need machining. The manifold won't clear valve covers. It's not machined properly to fall into the valley to allow bolting up. The fuel lines are too close to the distributor to clear fittings at this point. For those of you that remember, this had the fuel rails on the outside. I converted it to the inside to get rid of ugly. :) I'm not sure what the answer is for that, yet. The next time I heat the shop, I will disassemble the unit and stick it in the mill to correct the deficiencies. I think this could be a fight at every step of the process. :)
Great Googly Moogly! :!:
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
:D 8) );b(
That sure is pretty !!!!!! :D
One step closer today. It takes way too long to disassemble this mess. :) The statement I made about fighting all the way is coming true. I had to remove the way cover from the mill to have enough room to machine the sides. Due to no memory, I'm numbering parts in order on this. :) The base is bolted on. I'm going to have to get hex head studs for the center 4 fasteners. I had cut that area as much as I dared when I worked on this the 1st time. I can get 12 point bolts in but can't get a wrench on them. More thinking tomorrow dealing with the fuel lines.
kool 8)
very nice induction setup.
O&S at it's finest. I changed the bolts out in the manifold. I used needle nose pliers and a real small 5/16" box end to tighten the center 4. :) Obviously, I hadn't spent enough time on this, yet. I swapped the injectors back to the outside. There wasn't an easy way to clear the distributor with the front fuel line. I used a set of ev1 injectors because of there size. I had adapters to change to ev6 on the injectors. I had what was left of the harness on the 99 explorer engine that went into the 32 in the shed. It was eec v with the ev1 connectors. I dissected the harness and installed it on the injectors. I have made the connections to change from sequential to batch fire for this eec iv computer. I'm using the small cap adapter that I made some time ago and have the tps mounted. I have to make 2 adapters for the fuel lines and the regulator next. Also on the list is the knock sensor. The original is mounted on the rear of the block. Sun exposure caused it to give up it's life. I didn't find one of those for any decent price. Seems that 1988 might be obsolete. They make one for newer v6's. The original is 1/2 thread and the new one is 12 mm. I'm going to take a piece of round shaft and machine an adapter to take care of that. That leaves the idle air control off the list. For my purposes at this time, that isn't necessary.
The fuel line fittings arrived so it's time to go to work. The original knock sensor became the donor for the new one. I stuck the old unit in the lathe and machined it flat to facilitate welding a 12mm. nut onto the base. With the little research I did, the sensor is a microphone for the engine, sensing vibrations which in turn causes the little disc sensor inside to change the voltage readout. I went about connection the wiring harness and fuel apparatus. 1st attempt, it doesn't start right up. I prime it and it fires and dies. I open the butterflys some and it fires up. HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM! It's running rough. I mess with the fuel regulator and it changes it some but doesn't fix the problem. I shut it off and check the tps. The injectors are made for a GM tps. I thought a tps was a tps. Not so. The Ford has a voltage wire that the sensor reads to monitor voltage fluctuations. The GM doesn't do it the same at least on this unit. As the tps rotates, it changes the voltage going in and out. The 1st time I had it running, it had full voltage at idle and reduced as throttle opening increased. Lets just say it's running rough. I swapped wires going to the tps and now the reference signal decrease as throttle increase. The Ford doesn't do that. I'm going to do some research about this but the best remedy maybe to machine an adapter to use the Ford tps. Are we having fun now? LOL
More testing today. I believe I solved the tps problem. I changed out the injectors for a slightly smaller set just in case that was a problem. I installed a different gauge on the regulator because the other one acted wrong. Started it up and it still had problems. I adjusted the fuel regulator and it didn't make a real difference. I unplugged the spout connector and set the timing with a light. With the spout unplugged, the TFI module is bypassed. It ran way better. I have an almost new TFI module left over from the 32 spares. I installed it. Same thing. Runs ok with the spout disconnected. As soon as the TFI and the associated circuit takes over, it starts miss-firing. I swapped computers. Same result. Time for more thinking. The regulator is suspect but I don't have anything to exchange for it. All the rest of the parts were on the truck intake and the engine ran as it should. I'm going to find something to replace the regulator before I try it again. :)
Engine sounds! :D Nice going, KB. 8)
I tried again today. More testing, same result. I connected the breakout box and checked voltages. I didn't find anything. Won't run with the TFI connected. More thinking ahead.
Ladies and Gentlemen! Over here at amazingly O&S, I have found the problem. This morning I remembered that when I had the engine running stock, I was using a different distributor. I swapped that out this am with the old tfi module. Same result. I installed the new spare again. Same result only better as in the tfi wasn't perfect.
I decided that the only way to determine what had happened was to reinstall the stock intake. So I did. Same result. This left only one item to change. My small cap on the distributor. Dilemma solved. The geometry on the stock cap will work fine in a conventional ignition circumstance as when the spout is disconnected. The EFI controller was not able to control the timing for some reason. Large cap installed, everything is back to normal. This leaves me with no simple way to have the efi control the timing with the 8 stack. There is no room for the large cap which is why I built the adapter to begin with. More thinking on down the road. :)
would something like this work with the TFI module? Holley Sniper 565-301BK
I don't think so Frank. I could adapt it to a remote adapter for the TFI but I have no idea how different the signals are from the hall effect sensors. My 1st thought if I decide to pursue this is an offset distributor head. Same as the offset drives in drag racing with big blowers. I'm going to have to decide where I'm going with this. If I build a hot rod with an exposed engine, this manifold would be nice. If I have to hide it under the hood, I'm not as excited. I'm going to find out what all is wrong with the 78 and decide if this engine needs to go in it. I like learning and I learned something. :) Years ago, some of the comp eliminator racers were swapping crank trigger units around and found that the size of the crank pulley was important. That was way down on my list of what I thought was wrong. I wasn't going to remove the 8 stack until I exhausted my available stack of resources. That happened today. LOL
the offset distributor drive would look good with the stacks . Some of those systems used a gilmer belt to drive the offset drive if I remember . I think there was one for a cam driven distributor that was offset so you could still drive a fuel pump off the front of the cam for bbc and sbc using a gilmer belt for the dist.That type of drive might be fun to whittle out on your mill. Those stacks are awesome!
I disassembled the cylinder head I picked up from the salvage yard yesterday. I don't see anything that looks bad. It's off to the vat and then get painted if it ever warms up again. :)
This is the fix I have in mind for using the 88 fuel tank without the external pump. The pic shows a standard mustang gt pump next to the truck transfer pump. The oem pump is 8psi and would work with a carb. The gt pump is the standard 40psi unit with plenty of capacity for 250 hp. I believe the truck engine is rated at 185 hp.
Why not , you seem to have had good luck with mustang parts in the past :lol:
^^^
At least you didn't tell me to metalflake it. LOL
Quote from: "kb426"^^^
At least you didn't tell me to metalflake it. LOL
That comes later.... :lol: :lol:
Bob..... :wink:
At least the pump is new. May be manufactured by the lowest bidder, though. :) The box has no country of manufacture. Does that mean it's a knock off of a knock off? :)
I spent the afternoon swapping out the cracked head with the one from the salvage yard. I have a new water pump to install and all the front drive accessories to bolt on. I'll probably fire it to see if everything is all right. Then it will be ready for it's next home, whatever that maybe. :)
Fancy!