The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: chimp koose on December 02, 2013, 11:45:19 PM
Ok ,I think I have settled on using block hugger headers on my sbc in the T coupe.Are there ones to stay away from? Are there any that are standouts in price or quality? I also need one dimension from anyone who has a set on their car. Since the back exhaust pipe on each side will be behind the original firewall I will have to move the firewall back. I will have an inset into the original firewall that is about 26" wide. How wide are the headers on the back 2 cyl. on anyones sbc block huggers?I am reading product descriptions on the interweb that say anything from 3 1/2 " to 4 1/2" ON THE CENTER PIPES. The end pipes go behind the center ones into the collector so they should be narrower? If I could get a measurement from Exh flange to outside of a back pipe that would probably do.I hope to have 1" clearance from the header to firewall edge. How much clearance is too little?
I have used Sanderson blockhugger headers on two occasions. As far as I am concerned, they are top of the line. They are not inexpensive, but in my opinion, they are well worth the price.
Well, on the bottom feeder end of the spectrum I got a set of stainless block huggers from this ebay seller:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=racingtrack23rd_performance&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.Xhugger&_nkw=hugger&_sacat=0&_from=R40
I'm pretty sure they're Chinese but they fit great, have the cutest little tig welds, the bolts fit my Snap-On 7/16 socket like precision and they don't leak.
Mac, those look good in the pic. I wish he had a greater selection.
Thanks mac I am high bidder on a set,ends in an hour. What dimension are they from the exh face on head to the outside of the rear tube. If its too wide I may have to cut them apart and massage them.Anyone have an opinion on how close is too close for an exhaust header pipe to the side of a recessed firewall?thanks for your responses.
Quote from: "kb426"Mac, those look good in the pic. I wish he had a greater selection.
I thought the selection was pretty good.
That was a search for "huggers only" within the seller's store.
Chimp, I'll get a measurement for you in the morning.
Thanks Mac, I did win the auction. Nice to know what kind of quality to expect before bidding!$159 shipped and brokered. Just have to hope UPS sticks to the quote!
I got a stainless set from Speedway. Fit good, but they turn goldish, yellow right away. Don't really care for the look. Larry
Yup. SS headers will turn gold. But they will not rust, so it is a trade-off. My Sanderson ceramic coated headers are no longer shiny, but after ten years, they have no signs of rust anywhere.
Quote from: "chimp koose"Thanks Mac, I did win the auction. Nice to know what kind of quality to expect before bidding!$159 shipped and brokered. Just have to hope UPS sticks to the quote!
A little late now I guess, after your trigger pull, but mine measure 3 5/8" off the head surface on the back primary tubes.
Hope they work out for you. Mine are on for not quite a year now and they don't look polished any more. I would say they have a "patina" but I didn't buy them for bling anyway.
You might want to spring for better gaskets. Mine came with plain generic ones. Just remember; tighten, re-tighten, re-tighten, re-tighten during the first 100 miles.
One thing I should have mentioned. I would advise springing for a set of Stage 8 locking fasteners. I used them and have never had to re-tighten the bolts.
Mac that dimension will leave about3/8" clearance. Oh well ,never expected this to be a bolt together hot rod.I have not cut the firewall yet so I may have to look into how I can widen the inset area. The 26" wide inset job would be a no brainer ,now I may have to think on it some. As far as yellowing on the pipes ,I used to rub lemon oil on my chrome headers to take away the yellow. It would lighten the brown, but the blue was there to stay. I have heard of a product used on bike exhaust "never blu"?. you coat the inside of the pipes before initial fire up. Supposeed to coat the inside making heat transfer more difficult(thermal barrier). probably better on a bike with exposed pipes. Once these headers arrive I will be able to finalise motor mounts and trans crossmember.
seems i am late to the dance...
but i like these as they seem to use the ball connection rather than a flat gasket...
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/SBC-Block-Hugger-Header-JBA-Stainless-Steel-NEW-Hot-Rat-Street-Rod-350-Chevy-/00/s/MTI0MFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqR,!okE63(r1qSRBO8ny-RP7Q~~60_58.JPG)
but the first ones on the ebay link seem to have more clearance... for the #7 and 8 cylinders..
i had a friend build a tuning tube to slip into the collector flange of his 255 HP honda.. just installing the tuning tube increased his power on the dyno 265hp.
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/016060a4-b4d9-4f15-bd08-64e547dace6a_zps07f8bae4.jpg)
i figured that the where the 4 tubes came together.. the pulses assisted the other tubes in scavenging... and then the exhaust would expand in the collector and slow down.. but when this is added.. the scavenging works at the front.. but the individual exhaust pulses flowing thru the length of the tuning tube create enertia and actually lower the pressure in the collector area at middle to higher rpms.. the flow thru the tuning tune was basicly constant.. so there was no way for reversion to bounce off the muffler and reflect back up pipe and into the next pulse..
oh.. and his honda.. no longer sounds like a honda.. all raspy and nasty..
it sounds like a healthy big block chevy..
it turned or tuned his exhaust into a 2 stroke extractor exhaust..
Most of my bikes have had stainless pipes for better than 15 years. They all turn gold after running. This appears to be a quality of the stainless used in the systems. I've done no research to see at what temp. this occurs. I know that farther back on a system, they don't change color.
Quote from: "Mac"Quote from: "chimp koose"Thanks Mac, I did win the auction. Nice to know what kind of quality to expect before bidding!$159 shipped and brokered. Just have to hope UPS sticks to the quote!
A little late now I guess, after your trigger pull, but mine measure 3 5/8" off the head surface on the back primary tubes.
Hope they work out for you. Mine are on for not quite a year now and they don't look polished any more. I would say they have a "patina" but I didn't buy them for bling anyway.
You might want to spring for better gaskets. Mine came with plain generic ones. Just remember; tighten, re-tighten, re-tighten, re-tighten during the first 100 miles.
I only use copper header gaskets, clean all surfaces real good w/laquer thinner & apply a small bead of hi-temp red or orange silicon for insurance. No leaks, I'm happy.
Quote from: "wayne petty"
i had a friend build a tuning tube to slip into the collector flange of his 255 HP honda.. just installing the tuning tube increased his power on the dyno 265hp.
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/016060a4-b4d9-4f15-bd08-64e547dace6a_zps07f8bae4.jpg)
i figured that the where the 4 tubes came together.. the pulses assisted the other tubes in scavenging... and then the exhaust would expand in the collector and slow down.. but when this is added.. the scavenging works at the front.. but the individual exhaust pulses flowing thru the length of the tuning tube create enertia and actually lower the pressure in the collector area at middle to higher rpms.. the flow thru the tuning tune was basicly constant.. so there was no way for reversion to bounce off the muffler and reflect back up pipe and into the next pulse..
oh.. and his honda.. no longer sounds like a honda.. all raspy and nasty..
it sounds like a healthy big block chevy..
it turned or tuned his exhaust into a 2 stroke extractor exhaust..
I'm wondering if your friend did much of any experimenting with the anti reversion cone length? And was that a NA engine?
My older son, that I mentioned in another thread is in the Rice crowd, has a turbo'd Acura 1.8 in a Honda CRX that chassis dyno'd at 350 hp. This tuned downpipe might interest him.
Quote from: "Mac"
My older son, has a turbo'd Acura 1.8 in a Honda CRX that chassis dyno'd at 350 hp. This tuned downpipe might interest him.
MAN that oughta SCOOT
later jim
That CRX may not be old, but thats a hot rod in my books!
I never drove his `Rex, as he calls it, but I've been for a ride :shock:
You can imagine how hard it is getting that power to the ground, the car doesn't weigh much. He was running street style slicks on my ride and I think he could have lite them up at just about any speed. 2 stage boost control from the dash.
That probably enough Asian hotrod talk, they'll shut us down.
QuoteThat probably enough Asian hotrod talk, they'll shut us down.
[/quote]
Like I've been telling people for years :
"That sideways engine thing just ain't gonna catch on " ...... :?
Bob...... :wink:
Quote from: "Mac"Quote from: "wayne petty"
i had a friend build a tuning tube to slip into the collector flange of his 255 HP honda.. just installing the tuning tube increased his power on the dyno 265hp.
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/016060a4-b4d9-4f15-bd08-64e547dace6a_zps07f8bae4.jpg)
i figured that the where the 4 tubes came together.. the pulses assisted the other tubes in scavenging... and then the exhaust would expand in the collector and slow down.. but when this is added.. the scavenging works at the front.. but the individual exhaust pulses flowing thru the length of the tuning tube create enertia and actually lower the pressure in the collector area at middle to higher rpms.. the flow thru the tuning tune was basicly constant.. so there was no way for reversion to bounce off the muffler and reflect back up pipe and into the next pulse..
oh.. and his honda.. no longer sounds like a honda.. all raspy and nasty..
it sounds like a healthy big block chevy..
it turned or tuned his exhaust into a 2 stroke extractor exhaust..
I'm wondering if your friend did much of any experimenting with the anti reversion cone length? And was that a NA engine?
My older son, that I mentioned in another thread is in the Rice crowd, has a turbo'd Acura 1.8 in a Honda CRX that chassis dyno'd at 350 hp. This tuned downpipe might interest him.
no not turbo ... just a straight CRX sourced H22... with as much compression valve oversize and cams one can wedge in..
the 3 inch long front wheel studs look really weird on it.. i have not seen his slicks for the front..
he just had the muffler shop create it for him.. i don't think he did any adjustments or changes to see... he might have hit it perfect on the first try.. but 10 horsepower for 20 bucks is pretty cheep.. and change in sound is tremendous.. when i am saying it sounds like a healthy big block chevy.. i am not kidding..
the brraaappppppp is totally gone from the exhaust..
Quote from: "wayne petty"
no not turbo ... just a straight CRX sourced H22... with as much compression valve oversize and cams one can wedge in..
I'm thinking you mean CR-V for a 2.2 litre but regardless that's real bang for the buck and the exhaust note change is tastey icing fer sher.
...unless you're a hardcore, flag waving Honda banger lover who's become enamored by the raspy blat. This might describe my boy.
Well the postman dropped off my headers today and they are nice! $159 to my door. Tried them on my car and they do not hug the engine like another set a co-worker had let me try. I could cut and reweld these at the flange to make them hug more but I would have to resort to a shorty type spark plug.Not interested. Anyhow the co-worker has agreed to swap headers with me , his are going in a sbc/53 ford 1/2 ton ,no fit issues at all . Now I should be able to get back to work on the car.
Well, glad you worked things out in the end. I bought my set when some coated ones I had fouled the motor mount on the drivers side. You gotta buy these things with crossed fingers like a pig in a poke, huh?
I was going to post earlier but didn't think my input was needed .. I tried to install a set of the generic "block hugger headers" from Speedway on my Olds a few years back .... The bottom flange was at the same level as the block coolant drains ... It was soo close to the block that it would not clear the petcocks I installed there for draining the cooling system ... :roll:
The drains make my maintenance easier ... :idea:
The manifolds went back on & down the road we go ........... 8)
Bob... :wink:
The product information given on many of the ads is minimal at best. I knew enough from you guys and your input that the quality of the ones I got was good. I had the exchange with my co-worker figured out before the purchase of these just in case the fit was off. His application has no fit worries at all.Thanks to all who replied to this thread.