The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: WZ JUNK on July 13, 2010, 08:03:02 AM
Recent developments have made me think more about how to insure our specialty vehicles are not taken by thieves. I have been thinking about an antitheft device for some time. I thought I would put the idea out here and let you poke holes in my proposal before I make one.
I intend to drill four holes 90 degrees apart in one of the front disc brake rotors with each hole located just between the inner fin. A receiver hitch lock or a bolt with a nylock nut could be placed through two of these holes on each side of the calilper. The idea is that this would prevent one front wheel from turning. It is very difficult to push pull or load a vehicle with one wheel locked, especially if it is park close to another vehicle. Years of loading wrecked vehicles has taught me this. I know this would not prevent a creative thief from taking a vehicle but it would slow them down and possibly make them look for something easier. Your buddies car for instsance.
What do you think? Does someone have a better idea?
John
Would some sort of hidden brake line lock be simpler and just as effective?
Or...have the same type of pin/bolt but instead of through the rotor just push the brake pedal down and install the pin to keep it locked on.....maybe...perhaps... :lol: or a removable pin that locks the 2 halves of the steering shaft together...when you remove the pin the steering wheel just spins around and doesnt turn the wheels.
I know it sounds like a stupid idea...I was just getting my post count on the move :oops:
My only concern about the brake lock would be disabling the brake lights, but that could be overcome with a switch.
I have thought about a couple of things that involved the brake system. A line lock would work but cutting a brake line or disabling the electrical system would defeat the line lock.
I think, that in the situation I was close to, the thieves merely took the car out of gear and rolled it into a box trailer. I have tried to put myself in the position of a car thief and how I would go about stealing a car. I would probably look for the easiest, and if something made it difficult, I would go on to another vehicle.
I am hoping I will have some response and discussion as this is something I intend to do and I want the best possible outcome.
John
Quote from: "WZ JUNK"Recent developments have made me think more about how to insure our specialty vehicles are not taken by thieves. I have been thinking about an antitheft device for some time. I thought I would put the idea out here and let you poke holes in my proposal before I make one.
I intend to drill four holes 90 degrees apart in one of the front disc brake rotors with each hole located just between the inner fin. A receiver hitch lock or a bolt with a nylock nut could be placed through two of these holes on each side of the calilper. The idea is that this would prevent one front wheel from turning. It is very difficult to push pull or load a vehicle with one wheel locked, especially if it is park close to another vehicle. Years of loading wrecked vehicles has taught me this. I know this would not prevent a creative thief from taking a vehicle but it would slow them down and possibly make them look for something easier. Your buddies car for instsance.
What do you think? Does someone have a better idea?
John
You would kill 2 birds with one stone. Security and vented rotors. I think a line lock might work and you could use it for burn outs.
Good thinking John, but kinda "messy" .... Do you really want to slide under the car every AM to remove a bolt from a rotor?? ( On my Olds you need to remove the wheel to SEE the rotor.... :shock: )
What about this .....For those of us running GM (or aftermarket) steering columns, turn the wheels to full right or left lock before removing the key??? I doubt if car thieves going after street rods know the tow drivers "method" of straightening the wheels to roll the car out of a parking spot ...If a "determined" thief wants the car, they will arrive with a "Wheel-Lift" wrecker.... ( Think "Repo-Guys"..) Hard to stop them....
It's just one more idea to "slow 'em down"......
I'd think about one of those mechanical diskbrake handbrake kits that attach to the driveshaft and then locate the pull-on handle in the locked trunk or in a pickup under the seat or inback of the seat.
Don't think most folks would think about a spare handbrake.
I know on all my rides when I park out of town somewhere I always disconnect the battery with a quick disconnect I have on them for casual security as well as other reasons.
So to me pulling a hidden hand brake lever and disconnecting a battery wouldn't be too much for me to do.
Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"Good thinking John, but kinda "messy" .... Do you really want to slide under the car every AM to remove a bolt from a rotor?? ( On my Olds you need to remove the wheel to SEE the rotor.... :shock: )
What about this .....For those of us running GM (or aftermarket) steering columns, turn the wheels to full right or left lock before removing the key??? I doubt if car thieves going after street rods know the tow drivers "method" of straightening the wheels to roll the car out of a parking spot ...If a "determined" thief wants the car, they will arrive with a "Wheel-Lift" wrecker.... ( Think "Repo-Guys"..) Hard to stop them....
It's just one more idea to "slow 'em down"......
The particular car, that I had knowledge of, was an open wheeled car. In this situation I thought you could park the car with the front end towards a parking block between two other cars. With one front wheel locked, even a wheel lift wrecker would have trouble moving the car backwards. This car was a open car, without a locking steering column. It made it an easy target.
John
QuoteThe particular car, that I had knowledge of, was an open wheeled car. In this situation I thought you could park the car with the front end towards a parking block between two other cars. With one front wheel locked, even a wheel lift wrecker would have trouble moving the car backwards. This car was a open car, without a locking steering column. It made it an easy target.
John
[/quote]
Oops ...... :oops: My one track mind forgot about that .... :roll:
What about one of those "U-Bolt" shaped motorcycle locks around the spindle arm/radius rod/pittman arm .... OR ....Through a wheel "opening" so the lock hit the caliper :idea: :?: :?:
Just ramblin' here ....
Bob.... :wink:
there have been a huge rash of cars stolen.. while they were parked inside car trailers....
the trailers are usually on the road and crossing the border into mexico before they hit the hot sheet...
there are products like this..
http://www.trailercanelock.com/Trailer_Cane_Lock.html
these could also be used on cars... depending upon on clearance around the brake rotors or drums..
i have not had access to a lathe or mill in a while.. but for styled wheels.. i have always wanted to make custom shapes that stick through the wheel openings that have a rotating shaft to catch inside the wheel so the wheel can not turn a full turn without hitting the caliper.. careful design would produce them with a HDPE sleeve to prevent scratching the wheel..
another idea was to have drilled rotors...
think of a slide bolt ... built into a tube with a C shape at the end.. to reach around the back of the rotor... the slide pin then goes through one of the drilled holes and a padlock keeps the pin engaged.
i have on some customers stick shift trucks.. put eye bolts through the floor board on both sides of the clutch pedal ... just above the pedal pad.. so when the driver gets out.. he sets the parking brake... reaches in. pushed the clutch pedal down with his hand and slips the long shackle padlock through the eye bolts locking the clutch pedal to the floor...
one could also create an actuator driven spring loaded drop down jack arm device.. so when you get out.. the actuator releases the spring tension and a steel arm swings down out of its box... to drag the ground.. i would install it so it would extend even farther if the car was moved forward... sort of like when you break a front u joint and the drive shaft drops.. but this would actually be rigid...
perhaps somebody who makes shifter cables.. or clutch cables... could device a secondary shifter cable... that has enough movement.. but can lock the transmissions manual lever in park with an electric actuator pulling on a spring that pulls the cable .. so you don't just rip the manual lever off...
there are a bunch of different designs for trailer locks....
this company sells some for fifth wheel and pintle ring
http://www.truckinglocks.com/
this is a really neat design for ball hitches on trailers.. only 25 bucks..
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200172024_200172024
the best idea.... to buy a LOJACK.. put in a hidden gel battery for it..
I've been thinking about this issue after the car being stolen in Missouri. I think LOJACK is the way to go, with a hidden battery for it. The car can be stolen but recover is likely. Don't know what the cost is but piece of mind would be worth a lot.
I agree that LOJACK is probably the best defense against theft, but at almost $700.00, it is a bit pricey, although given the cost of our cars, it is money well spent. I am simply wondering about a cheaper alternative that can be installed. I thought I read once about a device you could install in the brake system that acted as a type of emergency brake--you step on your brake, activate the device, and all four wheels are locked. And I don't believe this was an electrical device--I thought it was mechanical--but given my memory I could be mistaken. Does anyone else remember this besides me?
here you go
http://www.mico.com/products/displaysubinfo.php?id=43
You guys should do some research about LOJAC. I think you'll be disappointed at what you find. The wheel lock is similar to the brake lock on a cycle. The only downside to a bike is they carry it off.
If you look at coverage area for Lojack they are not in every area or even state. For example it doesn't even show Missouri or Kentucky on the list
That is what I was thinking of. I knew I wasn't crazy! Thanks, Frank. :D
Quote from: "rumrumm"That is what I was thinking of. I knew I wasn't crazy! Thanks, Frank. :D
When I worked for the power company, I installed quite a few of them.
To immobilise a vehicle, or a trailer, might I suggest a boot. You can buy one for under $200, and they require no modification to the car. You can make some modifications to a standard boot that will make it harder to defeat, and custom pad it to protect your wheels. Being brightly painted, that alone would act as a deterent. Plus, it can be installed on the car, or the trailer, or both. Heck some of you guys could make your own custom boot.
A cell phone, turned on, and concealed in the car can be tracked. You can wire it into a charger connected to the car battery to make it last longer. Connected to a motion detector, that would alert you to the car moving, it could do double duty. Do it yourself lojack!
just ran across this...
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0710phr_gps_tracking_secuirity_system/index.html
waynes comment. this article is 3 years old.. the product has probably been improved.. or changed..
text from link
GPS Tracking Secuirty System - The GPS Snitch
From the October, 2007 issue of Popular Hot Rodding
By Steven Rupp
Photography by Steven Rupp
It's 2007, and by now many expected us to have warp engines and flying cars. While those predictions from old sci-fi movies haven't panned out, the 21st century is still delivering some cool technology. For instance, take that constellation of satellites known as the Global Positioning System (GPS). Originally launched by the military to track troops and aim bombs with pinpoint accuracy, it's now used for myriad purposes, including knowing where your musclecar is located.
Once a thief makes off with your car, it's highly unlikely you'll ever see it again. Let's face it, there are a million places they could take it and the cops are just too busy to search them all. To you, it's your pride and joy, but to the rest of the world, it's just a car. If you want to avoid being a victim, you need to take matters into your own hands. Alarms, steering wheel locks, and kill switches stop the amateur thief, and at best, slow down the pros, but once they have the car in their possession, those gadgets are useless. Enter the GPS Snitch, a miracle of modern technology that won't stop someone from taking your ride, but will greatly increase your chances of getting it back.
How It Works
The GPS Snitch is a mix of GPS and cellular technology that is designed to be easily hidden in a car or anything else you want to track. This allows the Snitch to provide real-time position tracking over the Internet. Log onto its Web site from a computer or Web-enabled cell phone, and you can see exactly where on the globe the unit is. We asked Yves Carrier of Blackline GPS (the makers of the Snitch) how the tracking process works. He explains: "Whenever your Snitch is online, you can request its location at any time because it's a track-on-demand product. Once the 'locate' button is pressed, our computers generate a wireless communication with a customer's Snitch, requesting its GPS location. The GPS Snitch will then calculate its position and send this information back wirelessly to our computers so that we can show the information in your GPS Snitch account." All of this happens in just a few seconds, and seconds count when someone is making off with your ride. In addition to location, the system also provides altitude, ground speed, and heading.
The Snitch is also small, about the size of a deck of cards. This gives great flexibility where you can stash it in your car. Inside this compact package is a high-sensitivity GPS receiver, a GSM cellular system, a rechargeable battery, a motion sensor, and a circuit board to control it all. The battery can power the Snitch for up to seven days, so once charged, you can simply turn it on, arm it, and hide it in your car. The company also offers a hardwire kit ($14.99) that lets you continuously charge the unit off your car's electrical system. If a scumbag steals your ride and disconnects the car's battery, the Snitch will still rat him out for up to a week. Given the portable nature of the Snitch, you can easily move it from car to car, hiding it virtually anywhere.
At times, you may elect to turn on the unit's perimeter alert function; the unit will automatically track the Snitch every five minutes for two hours in the event your car moves. In this mode, you'll have a record of where your car has been, even if you can't get online right away to track it. It will cost you 24 "tracking credits" (about $1.20), so make sure you disarm this function before you go for a cruise.
Tracking The Snitch
Inside the Snitch is a mechanical motion sensor. If the Snitch (or your car) shakes, the unit will send a "motion alert" to your e-mail. Once the Snitch detects movement, it automatically sets up a GPS perimeter around itself. If the Snitch leaves this security perimeter, a second alert message is sent to you to tell you that your car is on the move. This alert can be sent to two e-mail addresses and text messaged to two cell phones. According to Blackline GPS, the Snitch knows the difference between a simple vibration and actual movement. We took the Fairlane-with the Snitch in it-to lunch. Sure enough, once the Fairlane moved outside the pre-set perimeter, it was tracked every five minutes for two hours. It even caught me heading back to the office
I don't think there's any doubt about it, based on what I've seen ANYTHING that makes the car a little slower to steal, or makes them have to do a little extra thinking will usually cause them to seek another target.
just ran across another article on trailer theft
its 5 or more pages...
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticles/corp_1006_trailer_security_guide/index.html
how about this... electronic actuated parking brakes
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/67059/the_electronic_parking_brake.aspx
Some of the platforms that have electronic/electric parking brakes include:
• 2001-current Audi A4, A5, A6 and A8;
• 2010 Subaru Legacy and Outback;
• 2002-current BMW 7 Series and 5 series;
• Lincoln LS;
• Jaguar S-Type, XF and XJ;
• 2003-current Volkswagen models; and
• 2009 Buick LaCrosse and Cadillac CTS.
There are two variations of the system
This is an electric caliper the uses a stepper motors not only to actuate the parking brake but also replaces the hydraulic piston.
available. In the more-traditional "cable-pulling" type, an electric motor simply pulls the emergency brake cable rather than a mechanical handle in the cabin. A more complex unit uses two computer-controlled motors attached to the rear brake calipers to activate it.
It is expected that these systems will incorporate other features in the future. Some automakers already have a system where the emergency brake initiates when the car stops and then goes off as soon as the gas pedal is pressed preventing the car from rolling downhill.
To service these systems, it requires a scan tool. Do not try jumping 12 volts to the various pins of the connectors to extend or retract the piston or cables. Chances are you will set a malfunction code and turn on the brake light when the EBCM exercises the unit for the first time. The worst case scenario is that you could damage the unit.
this might be able to lock the wheels on both cars.. and trailers...
How about a cable stretched through the wheel windows and securely locked. That would slow them down and they'd have to bring their own wheels or a torch....................