"OLD" IFS question..HELP!!

[GPster]

So if I go to buy parts, like a new rack, should I ask for early pinto, and then maverick parts for the brakes?
Was maverick 5-lug?
I almost want to whack this off since the stock "A" crossmember is still there                                                                                             To me they look like Pinto spindles. I notice there are no brake backing plates shown so I would think you would have a hell of a time putting Maveric drum backing plates on Pinto disc brake spindlesunless they've already figured out how to do it and you've got those parts somewhere and they actually fit. Most drum brake spindles have a place cast and machined in them for the top anchor of the shoes and I don't see one there.  I am surprised by the "U" joint on the rack. Most early Pintos that I've seen used a flexible shaft for the mis-alignment so even though that rack looks like it was made for that set-up the "U" joint or maybe the whole rack may not be found in a Pinto parts diagram. The first couple of years 6 cylinder Maverics had 4 lug wheels. Then somewhere along the line they put some V8s in them and used 5 lug wheels. Then they got tired of having 6 cylinder or V8 parts so they all went to 5 lug wheels. The early 5 lug Maverics could have had disc brakes so to be sure I would think you are probably looking at '76 and newer. NOW Most of the conversions that I've seen with a factory crossmember they put them on whatever surface is flat. The Model "A" frame is flat on the bottom BUT it slants to the ground instead of being paralell to it. This usuall gives too much anti-dive and too much caster. Both of which are un-sightly to align out of them. Putting fender braces on them or stock fenders around the spring hats usually reguired a lot of cutting on sheetmetal and a Model "A" radiator mounts right above the crossmember. Most independent front ends for Model "A"s use a rear steer rack. Looking at these problems plus ones that I might not remember I would suggest you loose that stuff. I noticed that the back of the Model "A" front crossmember has been cut, which is common. If they left enough for it to structurally handle a spring that wound be good. If not re-placement crossmembers are available. Ford used front axels with the spring above the axel from '28 to '34  and the '32 to '34 are a better choice. The only real reason for wanting an "A" axel would be if you were restoring and needed the correct wishbone to fit the mount on the "A" transmission. If you split the wishbone it is better to use later. Most of the brake kits won't fit "A" spindles anyway. Please excuse any mis-spellings as I'm not going to read this for correctness, I'm going back to bed. GPster

[sirstude]

Hi all,

I did one of those early 71-73 Pinto front ends on my Studebaker.  They may look like the MII front end, but NOTHING interchanges.  The rotors are .125 thinner even.  Of course I did not find that out until after everything was built and I was putting on my new 5 lug rotors.  My best advice is to make sure everything is square and straight, put in lots of temporary bracing and cut out the Pinto stuff and replace with the MII or aftermarket front setup.  The other thing top remember is that the stock upper control arm mounts will not clear the fenders on an 'A'.  All the ones I have seen have some kind of 'bump' in the fender to clear.

Doug

ps,  just reread what GPster said, and he covered the fender/radiator problem already, but I am too lazy to pull it out.

[Bib_Overalls]

If you want to run fenders the Mustang II type suspension is a problem.  The fenders will require a "bubble"  to fit over the spring caps and upper "A" arms.  And the fender brace will also requiresome work.  For the home craftsman modifying fiberglass fenders is easier than beating out the metal.  But either way you go you are talking about a lot of work to get a good result.  Heits and a couple of other vendors offer Model "A" specific IFS setups but they are pricey.  I'd check out the swap meets.  You should be able to find a used traditional front end set up for sale. That is the way I would go.

[grumpy]

If you want to run fenders the Mustang II type suspension is a problem.  The fenders will require a "bubble"  to fit over the spring caps and upper "A" arms.  And the fender brace will also requiresome work.  For the home craftsman modifying fiberglass fenders is easier than beating out the metal.  But either way you go you are talking about a lot of work to get a good result.  Heits and a couple of other vendors offer Model "A" specific IFS setups but they are pricey.  I'd check out the swap meets.  You should be able to find a used traditional front end set up for sale. That is the way I would go.

Thanks to everyone who replied. BUT, I decided I couldn't stand to look at it, so it's getting whacked off tomorrow! I wanted to go fenderless in the first place, so that's how it'll be!

Thanks again. I'll ask more dumb questions while setting up the new ibeam frontend.

[2buck]

I think you made the correct decision. The way it is positioned it would have your front end up in the air!
Trying to hide the rack sticking out front would have been a problem as well.
Bucky