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I have been gathering some history on my 37 roadster. Recently, I met the guy who owned it 40 years ago, so now I have created an exclusive page just for this. I know some guys here know a bit about it, as I was using the brains trust on the RRT to guide me along in the rebuild. So, for those that remember, and those that don't, go here for a bit of Aussie history.

http://www.pepsgarage.com/pieces_of_the_37s_history.htm

Will this appear?


I posted this on the Aussie site, but thought it would be interesting for you guys as well..Frank will notice something interesing as well that I said I would  do a while ago....This site has a good coverage of many  Aussie runs. Just not rods, so you will see something different.
Go here and scroll down to Video Interviews...spot the 37 then click on it.

http://www.carsofaustralia.com.au/downloads_and_fun.php?cat=5

Where in the US sells them for a 37 Ford? Pref companies with a web site...but old fashioned ones are welcome as well. Thanks in advance.

This is what I made when I was building the 37. I have taken this from my web site. I have now driven the rod for a few miles and can confirm it works well. You could have the rack in a slotted mount and raise and lower until you achieve the correct position.

This is my primitive bump steer checker. I used a stiff wire rod cut to 14" and attached it to the stub with the castellated bearing nuts. I chose 14" as it would be about the radius of a wheel. I then used my primitive  plum bob to mark a vertical line on an old cardboard box. I centred the steering rack then attached the tie rod ball joint into the steering arm. I then adjusted the ball joint until the stub axel was close to straight ahead. I also leved the chassis. Once I was happy with the positioning,  I then jacked the lower control arm up to full height. I then moved the box in front of the pointer. I then lowered the jack slowly and observed the deviation. I expected the movement to be in a shallow arc, after all, the arm is pivoting  around a mounting bolt. What I hoped to see is at the lowest point of travel, the pointer should come back to the marked line, and to my delight, it was spot on.






This is the moment of truth. With the suspension at its lowest point, it is still pointing directly at the line This is the extreme as I have not fitted the bumps stops, so the travel is more than normal. Still, I believe a slight toe in at the highest point is acceptable. The last pic is to confirm the line is still vertical. This may be wrong, and I would like to find out if there is logic in my thinking. As it stands, I feel confident that the rack is in the optimum position and I should not suffer from bump steer.

Well it was the first time I took the 37 to mingle with other rods. The event was about 260Kms from home. 3 day event and 160 odd cars. She ran great except the brake issue I had when it went to the trimmers came back. No big problem as I had some tools this time......but....I was shocked to win top open car at the run  I didn't build it for shows, but I did say if other rodders like it and vote for it, good and well....I am pleased they like it.

I have just given Bob Drake the flick as they are only prepared to use a certain courier. They want 90 odd buckes( US ) to get a 2 Lb , 6"x 6" package to Australia. Anyone know of other suppliers in the US that I can use? I have tried Sacremento Ford, but they dont have what I want..That is..outside door handles for a 34 Ford and the fender spacer plate that fills in the gap between the fenders.

I got it back from the trimmers, on time and in budget...Now that's a rare occurance in the rodding industry  and I couldn't be happier with the workmanship. Here are a couple of pics...and a link to my web page for more.





http://pepsgarage.com/December%202006.htm

For those that frequent my site and haven't been for a while, here is my 37 roadster...nearly finished. I hope to have it registered within the next few weeks. Trimmer soon after...





and the way is was way back

OK...for those that remember, I have been toiling away with building my 37 Ford roadster for over 6 1/2 years. Last weekend I reached a mile stone. I started the engine for the very first time. The engine was built about 9 years ago and never fired, so there was a lot of anticipation whether it would run or not...here is the link to the page with the result. There is also a link to a video of the start on the page.
http://www.pepsgarage.com/September%202006.htm

for those that remember, I am still toiling away with the 37 roadster. I have just had it painted and it's going together quite easily and quickly. I have just updated my web site for anyone that's interested.
http://pepsgarage.com/June%202006.htm

I have posted this on the Aussie site, but I think you guys may also have valuable input on this.

What is the definitive answer, are the new extruded aluminium coolers better than the old radiator style coolers?. I have conflicting theories.

For those that remember, I am still building my 37 roadster. I have now made it to actually putting the body back onto the chassis......looks like a car now instead of a pile of bits. Here is a link to the current web page.
http://pepsgarage.com/April%202006.htm

Any of you guys had experience with their paints......any good?.....bad?. I have an opportunity to use their stuff at a fairly good price.

Guys...I've had a few issues with my host server. It appears it can't handle Frontpage extensions very well. The solution was to move it onto a new server that can. The only way I could do this is by using a registered domain name....so now pepsgarage.com is my new web address. So any one that has booked marked my old address, can you replace it with the new one....www.pepsgarage.com

I have a mate that has an original 65 F100 that he is contemplating selling. He tells me it has an original Y block but when I search the net, the specs says it had an optional 352 ( FE I assume ) but didn't mention a Y block...Are they similar to look at, can there be confusion between the 2. I'm no expert on either F100s of FE/Y blocks. Thanks for any help

Riding in a rod with a healthy hemi..if you can't do it for real...then this is the next best thing


http://www.deadendcruisers.com/videos/jimmywhitevideo.wmv

For those that know Boris, Hair just right, nice boots and clothes. You probably don't believe he can get down and dirty. Well here's the proof he can....here he is block sanding the 37 last week end. He done the entire front by himself...even with worn wet and dry paper. Of course, I was shown the little blister at the end ....but I appreciated his efforts. It left me to do other stuff.





And to prove he was there at the end.

For those that remember, I'm still toiling away with the 37 Ford roadster. I finally got the front sheet metal back on last week end and took a picture. This is probably the closest its going to look complete for a while. It's coming apart and being store while I get back into the chassis.
here is a pic but if you want to see the entire build, just go the the front page and scroll down to "build Index" then go for it.

I have done something quite silly ( yeah, add it to the list ) In my frustration in trying to get a brake M/C to fit onto my son's car, I grabbed the die grinder with a cutting bur and ripped into the aluminium flange to elongate the holes. After a short time, it wouldn't cut any more. I had a look and it was completely clogged with aluminium...Doh!!!. The way the cutting teeth are angled, it's near impossible to clean it with a wire brush. Is there any way to clean it out...chemically? without destroying the tungsten carbide cutters?

sorry to broadcast the request but it appears you haven't seen the PM waiting for you

I thought I would post this here for all to see....I will be going on a long trip with the 34 to Wintersun and wanted to have the spare wheel back on. It originally had a cover but is kinda ratty now, so I am going to get a new one made. I got to talking via this site and on the phone to a  young rodder in Melbourne who into graphic designing ( Craig, aka klassik ). After a few emails with suggestions, he presented this to me. It takes  both my interests into one picture. That's the rebel nature of me and my liking of rockabilly. What do you think?

Read the story in this ...sad day indeed
http://www.hot-rod.com.au/benchracing/viewtopic.php?t=2428

I posted this on the HRI site, but I think I may need further input..here is my problem..
I have grafted a tail gate latch to act as my hood latch. Turned out rather well. I was about to start fabricating up a secondary latch like most cars have but now wonder if its necessary. The tail gate latch has the 2 position latch just like door latches, so is there any legal requirement for it. Am I missing something.? I could save myself a lot of work and avoid cluttering up the area around the latch if I don't have to. I gather its the same as the burst proof bear claw latches and probably a lot stronger than the standard hood latch. I have pics of it on my web site in the February update...thanks in advance

There's a rodder over here that's acquired an LT1, 1994-1996  front cut and is trying to work out the wiring. The loom has been cut at the firewall and he doesn't know  which color wire goes to what. He said that Painless has a code of 60502 for the EFI section but their web site doesn't show the color/purpose of each wire. Anyone know where I can get a soft copy including the general wiring schematic. I believe the cars are Camaro/ Firebird, Corvette, Roadmaster, Impala/Caprice 5.7L. Thanks in advance for any help.