Messages

Thanks guys, I wish I had the piece that broke out of the grille. I guess I will just keep looking. The grille is 2 piece joined in the middle. I would be happy to find just the half needing repair.

Thanks again, 1939coupe

Check Hemmings and see if you can find one. You might be able to make one good one out of two. Do you have a photo of it you can post?

Here's a photo of my Grille.

I'm having a PROBLEM attaching a photo to a Post. The photo is a 87K jpeg. I click Browse, choose the file then click Add Attachment. After a few seconds the screen refreshes and the I click Submit. When I view the the post later there is no photo. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks, 1939coupe

File size is not the only limitationon image posting. Images must be smaller than 550 pixels in width.

Is there also a hight limit? As for Refreash time it take about 4-5 sec. I will have to check the width of my photo.

Thanks,1939coupe

I'm having a PROBLEM attaching a photo to a Post. The photo is a 87K jpeg. I click Browse, choose the file then click Add Attachment. After a few seconds the screen refreshes and the I click Submit. When I view the the post later there is no photo. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks, 1939coupe

Does anyone know of a company or individual who casts alum parts?
Thanks

Hey All,   I'm looking at replacing the '55 pontiac rear in my coupe with a Ford Explorer 8.8 Rear. My coupe has a Pontiac 421 BB in it, Is this rear end Strong Enough? I wanted a 9" but these 8.8 Rears already have Disk Brakes and they are easier to find Used. Cheers  :0-0

Hello everyone,
                       I would like to repair the grille on my '39 Olds. One of the Horizontal bars is missing. Does anyone know someone who can repair my grille? I think its made of Pot Metal?

Would it be possible to take my grille and make a form with it to CAST an aluminum Grille. Does anyone know someone that Casts Alum?

Cheers :b-d:

Looks like I bought them from Steele Rubber.

I have
25-0080-32 rear axle track bar bushing and
25-0082-32 rear axle support arm bushing on this receipt.

I think those were the ones, but you might check with them for sure, this was in 1997 that I ordered them.

Doug

Thank you VARY MUCH! I called Steele Rubber this morning and they still make the part #'s you listed so I ordered them! I have looked all over for replacements and never found them. I couldn't even find these in Steeles catalog in the Oldsmobile section so I didn't think they were available. Now I can keep my original suspension and just rebuild it.
Thanks again, Randy

My coupe has Coil springs and what look like Ladder Bars on it. It rides good but the problem is the Rubber that is between the Axle (Saddle) and the Bar. The rubber is going bad and I havn't found any replacements.

Hello All,
             I'm going to be taking the Original Rear Suspension out of my 39 Olds Coupe to replace with something NEW, any Ideas? 4-Link, Ladder Bar, Leaf Spring? My coupe is a Driver so I want a system that delivers a good ride with the ability to handle the Power from the 421 ci Pontiac that powers the car.

I have a TH400 in my coupe and used soft Hyd. line to connect my cooler and have had NO problems. Just make sure it's Hyd. line not Fule line.

The following two links are to the same article posted in different forums.

Whilst the info does not specifically address Randys problem, it is very informative, and anyone who has followed the thread this far is bound to find it interesting reading.

http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Detonation/

http://www.germanmotorcars.com/Detonation.htm

Thank you very much for this Link. I learned a LOT about Detonation and how Timing and Cumbustion Chamber Design can be used to eliminate Detonation.

I also learned that Detonation (pinging) is NOT as bad as I thought.
I'm going to use the info in the article to alter my timimg curve.

Anyone who builds and works on there on engines should read this article.
Thanks again,
Randy

The only thing on the engine that is NOT stock is the Dist.

Mallory Uni-Lite's are easy to change the timing curve on.

Seems to me that'd be the easy way out - and the cheapest and the least work.

Get it back to baseline and see what you have as far as how well it runs.

What step should I take first:
1- Cut back on initial timing (right now 6 deg.)?
2- Make Centrifical Adv. start coming in later than the present 1000 RPM?

I would rather NOT take initial timing out OR adjust my Vac can to put in Less than the 6 deg it is set for right now because the less Advance it has at Idle the Hotter the engine will run.
I just don't want to give up to much POWER.

1939 coupe,

Well the "right way"  is probably lowering the compression with dished pistons or larger combustion chamber heads  or both.  do you know what the compression ratio is rihgt now and what type piston , dished, flat ect  and combustion chamber size.    I have some friends that are pontiac nuts  Ill ask them what the largest chamber head would be.

Happy New year
Dj

My heads have a Casting Code of 092. And they are 1966 heads, so the Compression Ratio should be 10.5:1. And I know that the Pistons are Flat on top.
Thanks

The only thing on the engine that is NOT stock is the Dist.
I'm running a Mallory Uni-light.
As for the amount of money I'm willing to Spend, I drive the car a lot and want to fix it RIGHT. I don't want to breakdown somewhere and find out the breakdown was caused by a Pinging or a Timing problem.
Randy