Topics

I put a 2.2 ecotec motor in my baja bug 2005 chevy cavalier. I need to install maybe a pre pump and after pump filter, any good choices that are not overly expensive thanks ED
was under the impression I need a 100 micron pre and 10 micron post pump to motor.??

This is the add I found and the price seems right if it will work for my not too serious baja bug I am building, I still want to extend the front end 8 in from it present location and  the tunnel  will be removed that attaches the original beam and it will use dom to attach the new beam. but for some of the rest of the cage material I was thinking of using the material in this add


I am selling 6,500 feet of 1 1/2" OD (1/8" wall) steel pipe / tubing for $0.55 per lf. (24' lengths). I also have 1,440 feet of 1 1/4" OD material for $0.45 per foot. Works well for corrals, panels, gates, chutes, round pens, arenas and continuous fencing. Low carbon steel, welds great. Also 30 heavy duty 12' panels available for $110.00 each, not the light weight panels like you find in the feed stores. Please call Steve for more info @ (Bakersfield) Delivery available

DO YA THINK IT WILL WORK THANKS  Ed

Has anyone made there own simple turning plates to align your vehicle at home.  I have the caster camber tool, but having the wheels turn freely would simplify the the procedure and maybe not have to move the vehicle back and forth to set things in.  Thanks ED

My question is that I have mustang II with tubular A arms on my 50 F1 pu.. I am under the impression that the arms should be tightened when the truck is sitting at ride height. I am not sure how they function. Are they tight enough that they move around the rubber bushing or I have to assume they move up and down on the metal sleeve in the bushing and the rubber bushing is for shock absorbing. There is a washer on both side of the bushing, two for each bushing. And how much torque is used to secure the lower a arm to the crossmember.. Hope I didn't confuse with my question thanks ED

I am confused on the headlight configuration on my 2 bulb system

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                      l   l


looking from the rear of the bulb. which wire is which and it seem like the high low is switched by the ground if I read the wiring in the manual correct. 94 toyota but seems like it would apply to my round 2 bulb system on  my upgraded 50 f1. thanks ED

I have a 1949 F6 Ford that has some sort of adapter plate with a non working 350 sbc.  stock trans and rear end.  I may getting a 454 engine. My question is, are the sbc engine mounts going to be useful for the 454 even if they are I would assume the larger motor would not line up with the trans with out moving it further back. Just a little insight will help me make up my mind on some of the ways I attack this project in future. other projects have priority though. Thanks as always Ed

Here is my problem, I have no instrument panel lights.  I have a working dome light and just found out I have no tail lights working.  The fuse that is listed as being the instrument light fuse has tested ok but there is never any power going to it with the headlights on, the ignition on, I show no power to either side of the fuse. All other fuses have power at one time or another with the ignition sw. on. This is an 80 GMC dually 1 ton pu.  I am not clear how the power is fed to the light sw. and its rehostat.  This is my thought, the power is fed to the light switch and goes through a resetable breaker to one side of the rehostat to the other and then to one side of the fuse and out the other to the lights.  My plan so far is that I need to change out the light switch. Am I going in the right directions.  Can I feed power to the fuse for the instrument light and will that test the instrument lights?? kinda confused and the wiring diagrams aren't helping me much.  Thanks for your suggestions.  I have head lights and signal lights..

I put a 70ish Camero non shifter on the column tilt in my 50 F1 and when I put a lower seat in the truck the tilt was not enought down.  While I was in the truck today my boy was driving I was looking at the tilt column and realized that the tilt goes way up from straight and does not go down hardly past straight.  When I went and look at a stock tilt on my el camino I noticed the column tilts oposite the one in my truck it goes down way past straight and up a slight amount above straight.  DID I DO SOMETHING WRONG ON THE INSTALL and if so any clues to how to correct the problem  thanks so much Ed ke6bnl

We have used this system on a couple of cars to open and close the heater valve.  The valve is off a 70ish ford pu truck and the electric door closer was removed from an old jeep cherokee. The bar on the switch just slipped over the pin on the water valve and I put a pin on the top to keep it from falling off. The switch is a double poll double throw. center off. radio shack and others that reverses polarity to the valve.. The only negative is that there is no modulation and it is open or closes.  Just fo a laugh when my wife took a ride in the car and I was flipping the switching the switch on and off she asked me if that was for nitrous.  Not sure were she even herd of nitros let alone know that it would be wired to a swicht to arm it.

On occasion I have found this to be a neat clean way to bundle the spark plug wires out of the way, cheap too.  We put one loose rap around the bundle and separated at 180 degrees to that   one in between each wire.

This is so simple and as the rest you you we come up with special tools for all kinds of jobs but his one simple and good.  



drill two small holes in the top and I band saw the sides off to get the top off easier and the two holes in the top hold the nozzle tube and it can in some cases just be left on the plastic top.

I am burning a lot of oil, a quart every 200 miles, do not see much as to leaking.  The car is a 72 El Camino, 350 motor that came with a victor junior intake., Hei,.  The real question is the intake, if the intake is installed poorly can oil  from the valley get into the intake for the cylinders and be burnt off.  I also have a big problem with the number 5&7 cylinders oil fouling but that is most likey from valve seals and that side is where I put the oil in the vlave cover. If this is the likely cause I would like to change out the intake for a edelbrock or other dual plane intake for the edelbrock carb.  Thanks for your advice Ed ke6bnl

My wifes 68 mustangs radiator is getting plugged with rust particles more like peaces.  The life time warranty on the radiator that is leaking at the transmission cooler fitting will be exchanged for free for a new one.  I have made a flushing tool that puts water in the engine and or radiator and then is hit with a blast of compressed air will get rid of a lot of the loose stuff.  BUT is there a good solution to run through the block b4 I change out the rad. that will help clean the insides of the block and then I will put in the new radiator. I have available some condenser cleaning solution for air conditioning coils that has a strong base in. (sodium hydroxide) not sure if I mix it up as for use on ac coils that this would be good??? What have you all had any luck with.

How to best install my new Taylor Spiro-pr universal wire ends??  I have a crimping tool for spark plug wires. I have the 8mm wires with both hei and point type. My idea is to get the wire length plus enough to strip off about 3/4 in of the insulation, do I then just tuck the inner wire under the insulation to be in contact with the metal clip and crimp. Put silicone grease on first so it will allow the wire to slip on to the boot and back into the boot when complete. Thanks in advance for the advice E dke6bnl

Well I have a C4 transmission in my wifes 68 mustang and a 289 engine. the trans will not shift into 3rd till I had driven it about 3 miles. Someone on another site suggested that the govenor was sticking and I removed the tailhousing and it is as free as can be.  I would have to believe I am do for a trans rebuild, any suggestions thanks for your suggestions Ed ke6bnl

My understanding is that the 700r4 behind my 85 s10 2.8 liter v6 has a differant bolt pattern then the 700 for a v8 is that for all v6's.  the plan is to put my 53 chevy 3100 AD under the longbed s10- frame.  I want a 350 motor in my project and a 700r4 is my choice for a daily driver to work 100 miles per day minimum.  The motor is being pulled to go in my 85 s10 blaser with a bad motor 2.8 v6.  If they are differant is there a easy and quick way to tell if the 700r4 is compatable with the 350 chevy thanks Ed

Just a thought for pr/temp readings on engine.  I picked up a gage that was on a old boiler that was being removed because it no longer met the up to date requirements and it had a newly installed gage that measures water temperature and pressure pressure from 0-75 psi and temp from 60*F to 320*F all as one unit  with a 1 9/16 stem, 1/4 in pipe thread fitting, seems like the ideal set up to have mounted in the engine water system for monotoring the temp and pressure at a glance.  Just something to think about Ed ke6bnl no sure what they sell for.

Want to make a pinion depth gage for rear end gear install,  I have never seen one, but what I make of it I want to turn down a round stock to either tightly fit into the existing carrier bearings or replace the bearing with a turned down round stock to match up with the outside dia. of the carrier bearing and and drill a hole in the center to place a depth gage to get the measurement for the distance from the end of the pinion to the center of the round stock while clamped down under  the bearing caps.  Do I have this correct or am I missing something.  this will give me an actual depth reading or is all I need is relative reading with some straight flat stock bolted in across the flats of the bearing. thanks want to try to do a ring and pinion change out in my boys 12 bolt from his chevy pu.  Thanks for your input Ed ke6bnl

I helped a friend install a new windshieldin his E Type Jag and the  new rubber molding. It went pretty good but to manually install the rubber filler piece  that goes in the grove of the molding is a problem.  I recall there is a tool that spreads the groove open while you feed the filler and helps to feed the rubber strip.  Any help in finding a place that sells the tool or any other suggestions is appreciated thanks Ed ke6bnl

Well I purchased a new booster and M/C for my below floor 50 F1 pu.  By the time I got a chance to get to the motor and rest of the drive train in I found the vacuum booster  to be defective. It was in the truck over a year b4 being test.  I got it rebuilt to eliminate having to modify the setup.  It works, but there is about 4to 5in play in the pedal b4 it starts to feel pressure on the pedal for stopping purposes.  Can I put a stop under the car so they pedal will only have about 1-2in of play b4 it starts the activation of the brakes???
Do I have to have a spring to put extra force to keep the pedal up and returned even though it seems to return on its own.  to be honest I do not understand how the booster works and not sure if I comprimise how the vacuum booster functions  if the pedal doesn't return all the way up will continue to bleed off.  Thank for your help on this poorly worded question. Ed ke6bnl

Has anyone ever seen a 12 volt dc water valve to control the hot water flow to the heater core. 1/2in to 3/4 in.  I want a simple means to control the temp by turning the hot water flow to the coil remotely from the cab. This could then be set up to run off a thermostat to be automatic.  I have seen a couple that might work but were cost prohibitive.  thanks Ed

My boy has a  76 chevy 4.10:1, 12 bolt rear end in his 70 4x4 pu. we get a fluttery/vibrating sound when he turns the wheel to the right when going about 60-70 miles per hour. we rotated the tires thinking that was an easy thing to eliminate, that doesn't seem to be the problem. We are going to pull the cover on the rear end and check for any movement left to right in the ring gear and if it is ok then I would think next is to check the carrier bearings, not sure how to go about this??? Could a axle bearing cause this type of problem??? We are not sure what would cause this type of problem and any suggestion would be appreciated thanks ed ke6bnl.

I have gotten some crazy quotes for chopping the glass for my 72 el camino.  I bought the glass and have experimented cutting this type of glass with my presssure sand blaster successfully and now I bought some 3m glass installation adhessive. BUT are there any tricks to install the glass.  I got a tool to remove the old glass and tool for the trim removal. Im I in for some big surprises or can I do this at home.  What do you thing thanks Ed ke6bnl

I have room for a 16 in for my wifes 68 mustang 289 stock engine. some choices are the spal, flex a lite and the zirgo. I think I need about 2700 cfm thank for your help.  Ed ke6bnl

I got a public auction flyer from AAG and along with the machine shop parts they have a "original Rambler indianapolis racing engine from the late 60's" museum piece   Glendale Calif.  818 763 2021  July14 2005 starts at 11:00 am. If this is of any value to someone. Ed ke6bnl

Hi, I went to check the timing on my 80 chevy dually crewcab 454, when I hook up the timing light and try to check the timing I can not see the timing mark till I turn the advance all the way to 50* and even then it does not line up with the plate on the block.  I tried a second timing light with the same results.  I am on number one plug on the driver side front and I tried differant locations along the wire thinking of other wire could cause interferance, no change,  Does this mean possible the damper pulley has turned OR Could the timechain have slipped only about 60,000 on the motor double roller chain.  The truck idles and run ok not any power house but I think that year was hp derated and low compression motor.  the motor is stock, stock hei, and quadrajet carb, has a edelbrock intake and an Rv cam what ever that means. runs smoothly, will I need to time it by ear and advance till there is not sign of pinging, has never pung b4 even on low octane fuel thanks for your advice,  Ed ke6bnl

I have a 350/350 in my 72 El Camino.  I have 3.08 gears and on the freeway at 60mph and I get on the gas there seems to be a lot of RPM increase far more then the added mph change. seem to be a 5oo rpm increase instantaneously.  Seems to run more rpms then it should for the 26 in dia tires and 3.08 gears.  Then I guess there is the issue of the speedometers acurracy.  Ed ke6bnl How much slip in the th350 is normal. thanks

Ok you all help me to confirm that the booster vacuum canister is defective on my Ford F1 1950 pu under the floor mounted unit.  I test it with a vacuum pump and it does not pull a vacuum let alone hold a vacuum. I checked the tubing and check valve they test ok. I bought this new with the master cyl. but it has never worked and it was over a year and a half since I installed it to find out it was defective.  This is one of those 7" units.  What I would like to know if there is a vehicle make and year and engine that I could use to go to my local AutoZone or Kragen and ask for a replacement and then get one with a life time warranty and probably cheaper then I paid for the pair.  The place I got it from are not around to ask about it for a while they are out to some car shows.   Thanks for your help Ed ke6bnl

Hi, I purchased a dual master and booster for under my 50F1 pu.  Well it is well past any warranty by the time I was at stage of installing the unit. Now I have doubts that it works.  The truck has a mustang II with 11 rotors in front and drums in the rear 9".  I have the 2 and 10 residual and a proportioning valve for the rear brakes.  I do not think the vacuum booster is doing anything.  I do have good vacuum and the check valve on the housing seem to be doing its job.  I was thinging of hooking the hose to a vacuum pump and with a guage and a valve see if the booster holds a vacuum but not sure if that will tell me anything.  The truck accually stops ok but I do not think it is up to its potential and using the vacuum assist..  Any help in a proceedure for checking it out would be great.  thanks Ed ke6bnl

Hi, I have a two prong flasher that I temporarily hooked up to flash a 12 volt bulb works ok.  The old style add on signal system  I just got shows a flasher with 3 terminals +, L, P, Maybe someone can explain the differance and what the extra terminal is for ??.  + is the hot lead and what is the L and P as compared to the two prong flasher.  Thanks for your help Ed ke6bl

I installed a Heidts mustang II crossmeber and I have tubular arms.  I am not sure how much torque the bar that goes accross the upper and lower a arms are suppose to be set to. I am refering to the ones that have the bushing in them lower and upper.  boy have I made a mess of explaining it.  I am not sure if they are to rotate in the bushing or be tight.  Thanks for your suggestions Ed ke6bnl