Topics

Been awhile since posting--need some advice or help--have 48 Chevy 2 door sedan with true Mustang 2 front end---not sure of what year.  The person who built it widened it 2 inches--fits real nice in the wheel wells.  one of the problems I am having it denting the front shocks--have gone to a skinnier cylinder and has helped some---but PO welded a plate on the bottom of the lower control arm and cut a large hole and installed Monte carlo shocks--which I have replaced twice in 3 years---also drilled an extra hole in the frame where the rack mounts---had to gusset both the hole for added support.  I am wanting to know if anyone on the site has done this, seen this done and if I can install stock lower control arms and then install the Mustang 2 shocks. may or may not help in quality of ride-- Car has around 34k on it so it has been driven.  Thanks in advance

Wife's delivery---48 Chevy with 74 Nova clip--checking stuff, and found pinched r/r brake line--replace rear lines, rear hose and wheel cylinders---took for a test drive--could only get r/r to lock up and little pull/dart to right--put new calipers and hoses on--bled brakes--stop Ok but still only r/r locks up on panic stop--just don't feel right--thinking it may be master cylinder time also. Everything bled fine, but pedal was weak the first time through--had to re-bleed rear brakes. Looks like it has a master cylinder booster from a 77 corvette(casting number5480348--crosses to a Corvette)..Question should I stay with the same type master cylinder as the one on there or opt for 74 Nova with disc/drum they are different. Getting ready for Hot Rod Reunion and wife will be doing brunt of driving--old age has finally caught up with me and back/hip is feeling poorly. THANKS

Looking for a trunk ahndle for 37 Chevy 2door sedan.  Most after market vendors have them on back order.  Any leads would be appreciated.  thanks

Also looking for a 47-48 chevy sedan delivery for my wife
thanks

Master cylinder on wife's coupe needs to be replaced--small leak. Thought it was from 76 Nova---car has later model Nova clip--calipers, rotors etc. So I ordered brand new one for a 76 Nova---looked identical, painted it all up, bench bled it, installed it and no fluid tot he rear brakes. Tried to re bleed it at master cylinder, very little to no fluid came out of the rear port. Bad master cylinder or wrong valving inside of the unit. The one I ordered fits from 71-77 Nova, Chevelle etc. Casting number-6470409 come back as 70 Chevelle but none of the ones I have found look the same. I thought most setups would work--old cylinder works great--just a little weepage at the rear of it and around the gasket. Any help would be appreciated..Thanks a lot.  appreciate it

Hi guys--haven't posted in quite awhile--no excuse just lazy I guess...Have a quick question.  Wife's coupe(76 Nova front steer clip0 needs some spindles.  haven't found ang good used ones locally--friend of a friend has a set o new McGaughy 2 inch drop spindles I can get ---question is will they work.  I have 15x6 wheels with 4 inch backspacing and 205-70 tires.  The only thing that I can see having a problem is the backing plate hitting the lower control arm.  I talked to the tech guru at Mc Gaughy's and he said that with the 6 inch wheel and 4 inch backspacing it is going to hit the caliper.  Maybe I am getting old and do not comprehend any more but I don't understand(maybe stubborn also) why it would hit the caliper.  It doesn't hit now and I cannot figure out why it would with that setup.  Enlighten me if possible---will this setup work or not.  He says I would have to use a wheel spacer for it to work--don't have one now.  thanks for help in advance

Haven't posted in awhile--but have a quick question
Installing CC fan in wife's 48 chevy--Just curious---the fan seems fairly straight forward install. Noticed CC fan sticker on shroud---makes no difference if it goes top or bottom--I installed it down to make it easier to run the wires down the left side of the car. With the sticker up the wires go to the right side. Figured it was time to install--running a little warm in traffic Thanks

Got the Nova rear end put in wife's coupe. Now it is time for emergency brake cables as the S-10 had no cables for emergency brake. Have the Lokar universal cable hooked to the rear shoes and am getting ready to install cable to original handle. Any tips/ideas through any one experiences as to where to run and mount brackets for the cables. Any diagrams/pictures anywhere available thanks

Have a friend looking for quarters and tail light assemblies for a 56 Packard

Any leads would be greatly appreciated

Will the Energy Suspension polyurethane trans mount enhance a drive line vibration or not make any difference?  thanks

I am working on a Torino for a friends widow.  He passed on a couple of years ago and she has decided to sell his 71 Torino. He put a 429 into it and has a solid lift cam.  Well they are noisy as can be and has a dead cylinder.  I cannot find any specs on the cam in the horde of paperwork with the car and cannot find the engine builder--has moved out of the area.  Any rule of thumb in setting rocker arm clearance.  I am hoping that one may be too tight causing the dead cylinder.  Widow says it ran great on the way to cruise and on the way home would barely idle and started running rough--of course this was 2 years ago.  Super nice car--one family owned--zero rust--never damaged.  Thanks

What is the recommended gear lube for fine splined Muncie 4 speed. Going to change grease before road trip to Hot Rod Reunion.   Have read where GL-4 should be used because of the brass synchronizers--but the 72 Chevelle service manual says to use GL-5.  Thanks

Threw the alternator belt off the wifes coupe last week.  Put all new belts on next day.  Went to a cruise last night and heard what I thought was wind noise.  Actually coming from under the hood at rpm's above 2500.  Got home and it was squealing chirping from under the hood.  Pulled alt. belt and noise went away--figure bearing going bad---pulled old alternator back on--same noise.  sprayed belt and noise got louder.  Changed belt to another spare and same noise.  Put the Dayco belt on that was on the car when I bought it and noise is totally gone at any speed or rpm's.  Don't know why it threw belt--had driven it almost 400 miles on the new belts.  Any ideas--everything lines up great.  thanks

Have an aftermarket later model fuel inlet on coupe. Has what appears to be original gas tank(no vent) and screw in type gas cap. Cap has a little hole drilled in it for venting purposes. Sometimes fuel will slosh and gas smell can get bad--fumes will get bad on hot days. Do they make a vented screw in type cap that works the same way as the one I have with out releasing the fuel odor. Think mid 80's carbureted GM caps might work.. Don't want to get wrong cap and suck the tank flat. Thanks in advance

Info needed--Wifes coupe has what I finally believe is a 2nd generation Camaro clip on it. Looks like it and i cannot find any where to positively id it. Need to replace the collapsible steering shaft. Have found one new for a Camaro on Ebay and a couple of what appear to be good used ones for mid 70's Camaro. I also think I have a early to mid seventies Olds tilt column with 1 inch shaft. Does it make a difference in getting the shaft? I think most of the later model GM columns have a 1 inch shaft. The upper shaft has only been pulled out of the lower shaft about a 1/2 inch. Wondering if I should go with the Camaro shaft in thinking that I have the Camaro clip or what. Also need to replace the lower bearing on the column--are the bearings for that also generic. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hate to beat a dead horse---working on driveline vibration--occurs above 60 mph and it is cyclical in nature. Have raised the trans so engine is just about 0-1 degrees down--raised it a little over and inch at the trans mount. rear end is still about 2-3 degrees down--I know it should be up and before I change the perches(am still trying to find a other rear end so I don't have to do it twice) are these angles great enough to cause the cyclical vibration I am feeling. Up to around 63 mph it is smooth as can be but as I increase speed over that you can start feeling the vibration. Maybe I should have driveshaft balanced next instead of perches. any help will be appreciate. thanks

Where is the best place to by spring perches for an S10 rear end--it seems that all I can find are perches for 3 in. diameter tube.  pretty sure S10 is 2.75  thanks

Coming back from a mall show tonight, watching temp gauge, blower not on, just driving, temp around 200, turn the blower on and temperature on the gauge starts going down. Turn the fan off and temp climbs--starts going close to 230--turn the blower back on and temp starts going down below 200 and stays there. so bad gauge or wiring problem--I have been fighting what I think is higher than normal engine temps since I have owned the car. VDO cockpit royale electric gauge--would love to find a mechanical gauge and not worry about it. rest of the gauges seem to work OK--although volt gauge does go down to almost 13 volts with lights and blower on. any help as usual is appreciated. Thanks

Went to put new PCV valve in wife's coupe--77 350 and noticed that the new one vibrates--rattles--not fully sealing with motor running.  Old PCV valve sealed tightly when running--no pulsating/rattling.  Brand new NAPA valve correct fro the motor.  Problems?--or not to worry.  Has 19 inches of vacuum at idle.

Hello--have a perfectly good original, small rear glass window and frame for a 46-48 Chevy ragtop--probably has no use for it and was wondering if any body might know what it might be worth. Have not seen any for sale in a long time. Thanks
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1999 Silverado, extended cab LS, 5.3, 2wd with 90,000 miles has developed intermittent what appears to be drive line vibration.  Replaced center bearing and rear ujoint.  Tires rotated--problem is that it comes and goes--no rhyme or reason.  Drove 50 miles to look at new truck--drove great--coming home vibration came back into play at highway speeds.  Give it a little gas to increase speed and it would go away..I know it needs new rear shocks--hit a bump and the rear will dart some times.  Was looking at trading it off--got a great deal pending on anew GMC, but would rather keep mine and save the money for my 2 toys.  Any ideas where to look or has anyone had any experience with this.

Wife's Streetrod has I believe is 77 Chevelle/Monte Carlo front clip. I need a little more backspacing for fender clearance. Does a 15x6 wheel with 4.5 inch backspacing clear all right. done some measuring and I think it will work. Any help is greatly appreciated. The wheels are after market Wheel Vintiques Chrome rallys

Thanks

Hate to beat a dead horse--Wifes coupe has 4-5 degrees down at pinion and 5-6 degrees down at trans. I am going to start by raising the trans(easiest to do) gradually and see what happens. Needs motor mounts also which may have a bearing on it. Has Chevelle clip and S-10 rear with CE suspension. Has some vibration here and there. Having some shims made for rear end but not ready yet. Just trying to get it where it runs smooth going down the road and then do the final settings over the winter. any insight is welcome

Trying to fine master cylinder cover and gasket for one in my 55 Chevy--have had no luck.  supposed to be cylinder from 67 Camaro--any out there steer me somewhere.  most places have some but in reverse of mine.  Thanks

Well the ragtop finally left tonight.  Loaded in on transport earlier, on the way to Pa.  Down to wife's coupe and my 55.  All I need for now.

Got my new T/A radials and thought about waiting till after Louisville to put them on. Was moving some wheels and tires around to get to some rallys to put the other T/A tires on that came off the 55 when I saw very unusual sight. One of the tires in the corner had literally blown apart. these tires came on my 55 in 1993--were new then--I drove on them for 6-7 years and then put new wheels and tires on the 55.(the tires that I just took off today). Had used these tires for rollers--had on a street rod for awhile and finally just put them in the corner. Put them back on a set of rallys in December--aired them up and put them in the corner. When I moved them yesterday--couldn't believe what I saw---So that even strengthened my outlook and had new tires put on the car this morning. Put the old T/A on another set of rally here and will see how long they last. I think I am glad I put the new tires on.

Any opinions on plug wires. Getting ready for major tune--have Accel wires on there now but was thinking about Taylor--any difference in the wires. My wires have been on the car for about 8 years now.

Car from hell is supposedly sold.  Will know for sure next weekend when we meet to finalize deal.  So I guess I will drive the 55 to Louisville.  (Knew I should have put A/C in it last year)Guess I had better get some new tires.  Mine are bout 9-10 years old--still have great tread and ride pretty well.  They are BFG Radial TA's.  Are there any comaprable brands out there with the same traits--maybe some with a little softer ride.  Only reason I ask is that they seem a little scarce around my area.  really don't want to have to order a set and be hung out to dry before time to go.  Thanks for info.

Been playing with the 55 again. Figure it might be time for some tuning--was getting a bit of low rpm surge. Plugs looked real lean--so I enriched the carb a bit(Edelbrock)--made a noticeable difference. Can't remember when I last changed plugs--so it is probably time---Thinking about a heat range change maybe. I am running AC R45s plugs.

Engine is 283 bored .060, 10.5 to 1 pistons, good size cam(around 10-11 inches vacuum), Corvette power pack heads, Edelbrock intake and carb, Hedman hedders, pertronix ignition, initial timing 16 degrees, etc.--little over 300 h.p.

Have run this combo for almost 16 years now and plan to stick with it.

Any suggestions to plug or am I in a good heat range. Thanks

Anyone living near Bridgeport, Pa. that might be able to look at a 55 Chevy and give me an honest opinion. Thinking about trading ragtop for it and would like to get idea of what it is like before I make the trip. Have seen numerous pictures but need to do a hands on.Thanks

Guys--I am in need of a VDO mechanical Cockpit Royale speedometer(think it is 3 3/8--anyone tell me how to measure it.)  can't find one anywhere that I have looked.  Do any of you have any idea where I can buy one.    If I am forced to but the electronic one--do they come with sender or is that an added expense also.  Going to try to take mine apart and see if I can free it up.  Any good rebuilders out there.  Thanks

Working on front end of wifes coupe and found lower ball joint very loose.  Nut had backed off to the cotter pin.  Tightened nut up--took up play but cotter pin hole too far away to engage castle nut.  Pulled the nut and found where it had worn away part of teh top boss where the nut tightened.  Used about an 1/8 grade 8 washer between nut and boss and it tightened up.  torqued it  and installed cotter pin and all the play is gone.  Is this an acceptable cure or do I need to find another spindle.  Any recommendations ideas would be appreciated.  this car may be car from hell junior(but I hope not)
Thanks

P.S. Nova front end on 48 Chevy

Friend gave me a 600 Holley(1850) to replace  my 4010.  Just took off his running car.  put it on wife's coupe---starts and runs great.  After it sets over night it will leak fuel out of the rear of it somewhere.  Has standing gas on in the valley of the intake.  Checked floats--they are OK, cleaned needle and seat, tightened everything up.  Don't want to invest in a kit if there may be other problems.  Had a similar problem on a Holley in the past and it is still on the shelf cause I could not fix it.  Also the idle mixture screws don't appear to be doing there job.  Screw them all the way in and it just barely has any affect.  thanks

Wife's coupe has dual point distributor in it, I came to find out.  Does it need to have the resistor block in the circuit to function properly.  right now the resistor is being bypassed.  Car runs good, but afraid I mght burn the points up.  Will probably upgrade to electronic later on down the road.  Any one had any experience with the Accel point replacement setup--Little less expensive than the Pertronix.  
Thanks

What is the easiest was to separate a window frame from the window without damaging the frame or glass.  I need to remove the lower frame from quarter window of 47 Chevy ragtop to repair the pivot.
Thanks

Found this at GG Bowling Green--got for the wife to replace the red 48 I sold out from under her.  Slowly working my way out of the doghouse

Got the big brake setup installed on ragtop today--took for a ride and all braking is well--still pulls left once in awhile.  Problem is I still have a front end vibration/shimmy in the steering wheel. Was hoping rotors and brackets would cure it.  Still wanted the big brakes anyway. The front end is new--every single part has been replaced.  Was fine for awhile and then the steering wheels started to shimmy.  Different wheels and tires change but do not get rid of it.  Took the wheels and tires off and put them on wifes coupe and smooth as glass on her car.  I am running out of patience and money trying to cure this pain the a_ _ problem.  Any suggestions.
Thanks

Just thought I would ask a simple question about brackets on Speedway big brake kit.  Getting ready to install  kit on Mustang2 on the ragtop.  the bracket are not labeled left or right.  They say to make sure the caliper is parallel.  Before I start the job, I thought I might see if anyone has put the kit on and remembers which way the offset of the upper mounting hole goes. toward the inside of the car or outward. Just trying to make it easier Thanks

Bought my wife a 48 Chevy coupe to replace the one I sold a couple of years back--starting to get out of the doghouse finally.  Anyway--it has what i believe is an S-10, Blazer 4wd rear end.  What I need is a link to stamped axle codes.  I have found the code on the tube--UBT--and need to cross reference it to see what year it it any other info.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks

Tore rear end apart last night--going to replace pinion bearings. Noticed that the bearing closest to the pinion was not pressed down flush against the spacer and gear. Any ideas as to what may have caused this. I don't know if and when this rear end has ever had any work done to it besides myself doing it. Hopefully this will help raise the car from hell to the car from purgatory.Also does anyone have a spare 8.5 pinion yoke that would like to get rid of. Thanks

Got a phone call from the wife this morning telling me our grandson is on a plane heading for the states from Afghanistan.  What a wonderful way to start the day.

Need a little advice.  Been fighting the vibration in the ragtop and started to notice a whine from the rear end I think--so much wind noise can't really tell.  Sounded like a wheel bearing, but they are all new front and rear.  What I do hear is a clicking noise coming from the area of the rear wheels on both sides.  Sounds like someone putting a baseball card in bicycle spokes.  Can't tell where it is coming from--used stethescope and screwdriver.  I have had the cover off and replaced the side gears and axle bearing---ring and pinion have got some pits in them like they were under water for a time.  You can hear the ticking noise spinning by hand and it is really amplified with the wheels and tires on in gear up on stands.  shut the motor off and let is coast to a stop and it sounds like a amplified fast ticking Timex.  Hold the pinion and still hear clicking so I kinda ruled out Pinion area  Got about 10 days before Louisville and time is getting short.  Driveshaft also looks like it bounces a lot, but I have got another one.  Don't want to waste any more money---Any ideas
Nova 10 bolt--73-74 vintage

47 chevy, Mustang 2 all new suspension, wheel bearings, tires, driveline. Had a front end (steering wheel) vibration last year, found disc brake mounting brackets loose. Tightened and car rode and drove great for about 1000 miles. Headed for Louisville and steering wheel started shaking---not bad but noticeable and aggravating. Figured it threw a weight. Has front tires rebalanced--not too much help. Let it slide over the winter. Drove to trim shop was terrible vibration--drove it home not too bad. Turn a corner and rides pretty nice. Tried the wheels and tires off 55--rides pretty nice--put old wheels and tires on (Weld Rodiltes with floating center) and most of the vibration is gone. Had wheels indexed for awhile and then rotated 180. This vibration is driving me nuts. Can't figure it out. Going to replace the lugnuts---ends have been ground off at an angle and then have the wheels and tires road force balanced. Trying to get it ready for Louisville. Any help appreciated. Don't now why it comes and goes

Any one had any experience with this type fan controller--thinking about putting a cooling fan on ragtop with this setup
Thanks


Derale Electric Thermo Fan Controller

Part# 16739

   * Thermostat is a Single Stage Controller
   * 3/8" pipe thread water jacket thread-in brass probe.
   * Activates turn on at 180'F and shuts off at 170'F.
   * Will work on any 12 volt fan.
   * Relay is 30/40 amp, heavy duty for fans that draw over 10 amps.
   * Maximum capacity is 25 amps.
   * A/C override circuit included.
   * Designed for single and dual fan setups.
   * Kit includes thermostat switch, relay w/ wiring & fuse, wire hardware and relay holder screw, installation booklet with diagram.

Friend of mine just bought a 48 Plymouth--his first entry into streetrodding.  Pretty decent car for the money.  I kinda looked it over for him.  Brake pedal goes almost to the floor before applying. Power drum brakes.  On the way down you can feel it dart to the right.  Pulled drums etc.  Need new shoes, hoses and I figured a master cylinder.  Come to find out it has power booster and cylinder form 86 T-bird.  Haven't had a chance to see if there are any residual valves anywhere for the front brakes--but I am guessing no--causing all the pedal travel.  Would there be any problem just finding Ford dual master cylinder from power drum brakes and bolt it to the power booster, or would the year discrepancy create a problem.  I think a 68 Ford truck or Torino might work pretty well.  Any other advice.  thanks

Going to hook up some type of under dash courtesy lights in the ragtop.  I have the original door jamb switch in the car--what are the odds of it working on the 12 volt system or do I need to upgrade it?
Thanks

Back to the brakes again. Installed new rear brake hose--and low pressure brake switch. Went to bleed rear brakes--had wife pump brakes slowly 3 times--released the bleeder and pedal went down, but not all the way to the floor. Lacked about 2 inches frome reaching the floor. Neither rear wheel when opening the bleeder will cause the pedal to go to the floor. Bleeding the front brakes--the pedal does go to the floor. I have a good pedal--no air in the lines. Have not driven the car yet as curious as to why the pedal does not go to the floor when bleeding the rear brakes---anything to worry about or should I drive it and see what happens. Running in gear the rear brakes are applying a little sooner than before. Thanks

Pulled rear drums and got very little cylinder movement applying th brakes--cylinders appear to be free. Went to pull pressure switch and hook up a guage of sorts and broke the fitting going into valve(murphy back again). Hooked a makeshift pressure gauge into line coming from master cylinder that went to residual valve-pressure switch--Wilwood valve. After several pumps--getting some of the air finally got a reading. about 25psi. few more pumps and pressure went up to about 150 at the end of pedal travel. harder push on pedal--could hear master cylinder piston move and pressure shot up. Using more force was able to push needle past 300 psi(trans gauge). New master cylinder----lines etc. also took alot of force to get brake light to come on. Is this pressure normal or do I need to start looking elsewhere..Will put back to gether tomorrow-hopefully and try to get a better pressure reading.  let it set for awhile--has probably got osme air int eh system and hit pedal a few times and got 75 psi on initial pump.

Getting ready to get POS ragtop on the ground and go to upholstery shop.  Doing a routine check, found that the brake lights are not coming on as quick as I think they should.  Pedal has to be almost to be as full pressure(engine off) for the light to come on.  If you remember I installed under floor remote dual cylinder and ran front brake lines to discs through Midland booster.  With the car in the air and in gear it take full brake pedal to stop the rear wheels..  Don't know if theis is normal--don't think so. Did this with single pot also.  I have bled the brakes numerous times and have a good pedal.  Rear lines run throught a brake pressue switch, residual valve and Wilwood proportioning valve.  I have tried messing with the valve but not sure if it is doing anything.  Car stops well on the road but am not sure if the rear brakes are doing what they are supposed to do.  In turn if the pressure is not to good then the stoplight switch is not coming on soon enough. Don't know why?/if pressure is low. Would a lower pressured switch help or should I do some more troubleshooting.  Little help would be appreciated.--Thanks

Got the seats in, floor insulated, seats wired, console cut down with the switches in the console, and seat belts mounted in place.  Off to the upholstery shop 2nd week in February.