Topics

A non-car friend of mine has a couple wheel covers that I think qualify as sombrero's, that he's considering selling.
They came off his Father's Cadillac many years ago and have been in the barn forever. Sorry, don't know the year but they are lost in the 50's I'm sure. I haven't seen them in person and the pics look like they could use some chrome polish but appear to be in real nice shape.
Any idea of their popularity these days, maybe what year and an approximate value would be appreciated, as I have no clue.
Thanks, Frank
Not sure if the pics are included as they did appear initialy but disappeared upon preview. 243KB each

Do you think I should drain the old gas from the tank, about 6 gallons, before attempting to fire and run? It has been sitting for a good two years since last fired. At that time I had mixed the last residual tank amount with a fill-up of fresh Hi-test, with no problems and that gas had been left over from a short run season prior.
Thanks, Frank

What do I do now with the side plug and the two wires if I install the one wire version? I still want my volt meter to work and know that I have to rev excite to start the one wire type. The rebuild (former 3 wire) now has a ground to block tab attached to the case, which I'll hook up and also has a plug cover now where the GM two wire plug use to go.
Thanks, Frank

With assembly of a new rebuild that's dry, how would you go about setting the lifters (Comp cam, flat tappet) for start up? I may be too old school! It's a 30 over 396 w/Edelbrock Alum oval heads, if that matters.
Thanks, Frank

I spoke earlier with a member who offered his thoughts so thanks, it helped plenty.
I finally started chasing down an  overheating when standing and idling ongoing problem today. It's now much better with the few changes made but I want more. Prior to today's changes my temp would just continue to climb while sitting and idling; 190, 200, 210 and around 220 I went nuts and took evasive action. That would usually occur after a run to a show and then getting caught in the gate traffic and that would happen in 5 to 10 minutes. Down the highway it would run between 180 and 190 depending on stuff but no real problem.
With a local show to attend tomorrow, I decided to attack the problem today, typical. I pulled and changed the thermostat from a 160 to a 180 and replaced the cap with a 16#er. I fired it up and let it idle in my garage with the doors open and when it got to 160 I flipped on the electric fan. To my surprise it idled for a half hour and pretty much stayed around 190/195 though near the ½ end it did manage to creep up to 202ish but a BIG improvement.
With my temp gun I noticed that my gauge was pretty much right on with the reading I was getting at the intake by the thermostat housing where the sensor is installed. In other words if my gauge said 190 the gun said 192, at the sensor but as I traveled up the rubber top hose the temp would drop as follows; 1/3 up=182; 2/3 up=174 and on the top tank to the left of the hose I got a reading of 167/165ish on the aluminum Griffin. Where did the heat go or am I not circulating efficiently, hence my question? Exit temps were 157 at the radiator bib and 144 almost at the pump (stainless pipe with hose ends) though the iron pump showed much hotter.
The block is a 396 +30, oval ports, lumpy cam and headers with an RPM intake and 750 Edelbrock.
Now my question; can the water pump lose efficiency causing the temperature variation up the upper hose or does a pump either work or not?
Thanks for looking and any thoughts.
Happy 4th, Frank

Land Speed Racer, drag racer dies at 96
No one seemed to know why the two brothers stopped talking, but their resulting rivalry led to some of the fastest cars ever built, two of which went more than 600 mph.Walt Arfons battled his half-brother Art on the Bonneville Salt Flats and...

http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20130605/CARNEWS/130609910

I usually changed the Mobil 1 between 6 and 8 thousand, depending and impressed that upon my Daughter. So when she bought this new BMW Mini turbo the changes were included. No problem, less work for dad. Recently she stopped back to the dealer for a campaign issue and a fluid check and inquiried about when the "free" oil change was due. They told her that "they" did it now every 12,000, any prior change would be at her cost.
My question is; I understand that now with the cost being the dealers, that they might not want to do it every 6,000 miles but is 12,000 excessive in your collective opinion, especially being a turbo. And what about the filter, you know it's just pedestrian. Yes, I could still do it every 6,000 just for insurance sake or as a precaution but I'm just wondering what you all think?  
Frank

I noticed that recently my power brakes had become hard to push. After investigation I found a small 2" hairline crack around the check valve boss that extending down slightly on the plastic booster. I'm wondering if "you" think that JB Weld might repair the leak and return & hold vacuum. Thanks, Frank

Two days ago I got a call from a girl regarding the delivery service of Hotrod Magazine. She stated a company name, implying a checking service, which I didn't bother too remember. Caller ID showed private name, private number. On that call I stated everything including delivery was swell and the caller then responded by going into a sales pitch for an extension. I suggested to her that the right hand didn't know what the left was doing as I had just renewed till 2016. She said thanks and good-bye. I thought that was the end............wrong!
Tonight I got a similar second phone call regarding the delivery service of my Hotrod subscription. Again, caller ID showed private name, private number and again the same company name was mentioned as a delivery checking service. She addressed me by last name and said "my city name" was having a real problem with quality magazine delivery. Ironically by this time I had just received my latest issue which was water damaged so I remarked how timely her call was and asked if she was going to replace the copy. Also, my latest Rodders Journal looked like the dog chewed it so I was somewhat believing. She said she would have the companies replacement division get in touch with me in 3 or 4 minutes. Son-of-a-gun, I got a call back.

Let's review; 1) They had my phone number; 2) They addressed me by name, MR. Doe;  3) They new my city, Hometown, USA;  4) And that I received Hotrod Mag

The call back was a guy who had an east coast voice and again the caller ID showed private name, private number. He was smoother then either of the preceding girls. He mentioned the same delivery problem (kids were crying in the background-6:30EST) and promised to resolve it shortly as they were checking around as my town (named again) was having problems. He then stated he would be remiss if he didn't address my subscription renewal. I told him I recently had renewed until 16 and he said he new that and that's what he wanted to talk about.
He stated that my credit card, the Visa ending in a 4 was having a rejection process problem and that he needed the number again.
I told him "I don't think so as you called me and came in private number". Instant disconnect!

A couple of things; I don't use my little city on the Hotrod address, I don't have a Visa card and they only used my last name as an initial is used on the label for a first name.
I called Hotrod subscription and reported the incident and they're sending me a second issue. _________________________________________________
My thoughts:
With Hotrod being one of, if not the most popular car magazine, I think these folks are taking a shot with a car guy list they obtained somewhere like rod runs, hotels, contests, mag lists, etc. They first state they are calling about your Hotrod Mag and if you say I don't get it, I'd bet they're gone. If you bite they know you get it and then using the delivery service excuse may ask your address or city to get that, if they don't have it already. Then they may not call back for a couple of weeks. I'd guess each call tries to glean a piece of information until they get enough to feel comfortable going for the kill.
Just thought I'd pass it on so you'd be on guard........Frank

Just wondering if there is a easy way (no expensive meters) to check whether a O2 sensor is functioning correctly, or not? My 99 V6 Camry is throwing a PO135 code which is the heated upstream O2 sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1). Replacement cost at the dealer retail is $162 and even internet RockAuto is at $75. I'd like some easy way to confirm that it's the problem and bad. Thanks, Frank

Just in review, are there only 4 places a turbo 350 can leak from? Tail shaft seal, shift lever, pan and front seal, that the converter slips into?    Thanks, Frank
Okay 5, filler tube..................I don't count the cooler lines.

With the nights cooling down I apparently have an attic visitor trying to set up house. I reviewed the 5 gallon bucket, trap construction and find that I'm questioning whether to put in diluted anti-freeze or just straight from the container?
It looks like the bottom of the bucket should have about a gallon of liquid and George has previously stated that a side benefit of the anti-freeze is it's embalming effect; no stink. Thus I was wondering if a diluted mixture would do the same as straight. Any knowledge or direct experience appreciated...............Frank

Am I correct that corrosion around the positive terminal is a sign of a leak at that point? I replaced the battery in the daily over two years ago and it's been corroding since new. I'm not sure of the cause as the old one never had this problem. Naturally it shorts out at the most inconvenient times.
What can I do to prevent this build up of corrosion at the terminal? Do we still cover it with grease? Is it a manufacturing problem?
Thanks, Frank

In another post Lynn (Rumrumm) stated that he lost the brakes on a 92 vehicle. I semi posed a question so let me do it correctly.
Why with a dual master are there reports of complete loss of brakes? You know, pedal to the floor. Shouldn't the dual system provide some brakes? Isn't that the purpose of a dual system. I'm assuming that we are smart enough to know when one end goes and that this occurrence isn't happening only when the second system fails.
Lynn's is the second time I've heard of this complete failure. My brothers mid 90's Jeep was the first and he only blew one line. The front left was a rust out. ........................Frank

Hi; I've got one of those manual, ZF 6 speed trans' that are notorious for going through that $60-$65 OEM backup light switch that mounts into the case, high on the drivers side. I'm thinking of just replacing it with a spliced in push button type switch where the button or surround is illuminated when the lights are on. Dummy proof I'm hoping so as not to drive down the street with the BU lights left on. I suppose I could wire in a courtesy light as opposed to an illuminated switch but............
I'm looking for any switch suggestions..........................Thanks, Frank

I don't have a operating neutral safety switch and don't want to do a "Photo Guy" thingy    so........ I think it's a GM van column with the switch mounted low and exposed male tabs. I assume it's splicing in the switch. Which wire and which tabs need to be used to get the job done. Does the selector position mean anything as I believe it's normally a 350 trans and now it's a 700 so the détente relationship with the column shifter position is different? Thanks, Frank

Hi; Coming home the other night with the electric fan and headlights on, I noticed I was at 11 on the volt meter. The reading at speed didn't change with revs nor with fan or lights or both shut down.
Checking today it first was charging at the usual 14 volts at 2500 on the indash gauge, 13 at idle. With a multi meter at the alt it was 14.4ish, 13 at the gauge and 13.2 at the gauge with the multi meter.
Upon second check I saw the in dash volt meter drop to 11 then back to 13 then 12 then 11 then 13 with revs sometimes affecting the needle and sometimes not.
Also I could hear a distinct rev change or drag with the needle change. A drag when the voltage increased and a more free wheel with the 11 reading.
I'm thinking internal voltage regulator.
Any concurrence?
100 amp, 3 wire type...............Thanks, Frank

I'm still fooling with the hot engine while standing deal so in an effort to isolate the problem and gather more info, I bought a point and click infrared temp reader at Harbor Freight. They were on sale for $30 and I told the wife that we would use it in the kitchen more often for measuring the likes of frying oil, frying pan surface temp, meat exterior, etc. She bought the story and I bought the gauge.
Anyway, while my on board temp gauge was reading 190 from the sender at a point in the manifold next to the thermostat, I shot other locations on the engine and am confused as to the reason the water pump was hotter then I would think it should be.
Standing still with the 2350rpm Spal on, the water exiting the Griffin read 120. As water climbed the lower hose it pretty much stayed 120ish until it got to the pump inlet where it jumped to 145/150. No matter where I shot the pump it was 145/155. The thermostat housing and upper hose were 187 and the radiator top was 185ish.
I do have that bi-pass hose from intake to pump top and that was 185ish too, I think.
What I don't understand is if the water coming out of the radiator is 120, why is the pump so hot as it's passing this supposed 120 water through it and into the block? Or, is something else going on that I'm not aware of and causing the heat!
Thanks for any observations, Frank

WOW! Great party Ken. Perfect weather for a get together to bring out Rods, Bikes, Vettes, food, music and fellowship. It was good seeing old friends and meeting new acquaintances. The band played a varity for four hours.
Your a lucky man OBT...............as you've got a wealth of friends.
I think I get the LDA with over 360 miles, one way. So far I've yet to receive any welded wrenches but I've got a sunburned neck to show the road time. How that happened going south and east has me bewildered.
If you couldn't make it, you were missed. Here's a few shots I took. I'll be back to Muskegon shortly to pick up a new small block that I expect to win. It was occasionally fired up with open headers and sounded sweet...............Frank

If I need to replace the AC compressor in my 91 Corvette (R-12), what other years and more importantly, what other make/model compressors can I use?  Any help appreciated. Thanks, Frank

Do you think that they should have glass in the pool..................?

Here's some memories................

I didn't want to jump Don's post and I see that some folks have questions re my chirping noise so.............................

I mentioned the chirp noise around the water pump area  but wasn't too specific. Well here goes as I am concerned.
It's a chirp, chirp, chirp sound while at idle. I'm not really sure but I hope it isn't the pump bushing. It's frequency speeds up with the revs I'm not sure what's happening as I go down the road because of the exhaust note.

but I've got a new chirping I can't figure, coming from mine. Water pump area.......................Frank

Under acceleration or deceleration?
I am looking forward to the dual V-belt setup in my 31 roadster and wish there was enough room to do the same in my 32.

I'm pretty much only aware of it during idling. It's not your normal belt squeal but almost like a rub noise.
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Frank, What kind of alt/air mounts do you have.  A lot of the high mounts don't get enough wrap on the belt and it squeals on the water pump pulley.  Aggravated with running only an alt with no compressor. Doug

Alan Grove, high mount, alt only though I have a idler belt working in the second groove.......(see pics).

I just don't like the sound for fear it's a water pump bearing going and I'll be roadside on a long trip.
Thanks for any thoughts.........................Frank

Does anyone from the Detroit area have a lead on this old gasser? It was sold to somebody in the Detroit area in the late 60's or early 70's. Tilt front end, Econoline straight axle, 57 Olds/Pont rear end, carpeted backseat area, racer buckets and Plexiglas side windows.
Just wondering if it's in the corner of some shop, garage or backyard. Thanks, Frank

Gentelmen; Just exactly what is going on with a stall speed. All this talk about tire size and RPM's has got me thinking (always dangerous) about what's happening. Especially with mine being a 2000 one and 70mph being right around that rpm for most with 700R4's.
It's slipping until it locks up and it doesn't lock up until 4th, or overdrive. Is it also always slipping below 2000 rpm's too?
What's the difference between normal slipping prior to lock up and a stall slip. Thanks, Frank

Could it be? Is there a profit to be made? Is drag racing making a resurgence?
http://www.mansfield-speedway.com/
Maybe so! I certainly hope so and maybe with some racing in mind rather then just playing, match the clock.
Sounds to be well managed and forging on ahead with enthusiasm. ..........Frank

While I was watching the play off's last weekend, my wife and I got into a conversation about life and death, and the need for living wills.

During the course of the conversation I told her that I never wanted to exist in a vegetative state, dependent on some machine and taking fluids from a bottle.

She got up, unplugged the TV and threw out all my beer.

.....Sometimes it's tough being married to a smartass

PS: Sorry, I couldn't resist...............Frank

Thompson Raceway Park had a make up gasser reunion this weekend. It was because the Spring meet got washed out, pretty much. Well this weekend wasn't much better with an early 1" of snow on Saturday but today was cool & sunny.
Here's a couple of shots I grabbed. If I new how to post 10 second movie clips I'd put a couple of those on too.
Only diehards showed up but with 60 degree temps things were running sweet............Frank

We'll need a full report tomorrow, about tonight's date........

I see the Hotrod reunion has out grown it's space at Beechbend and will be in Columbus, Ohio next year at National Trail Raceway.
http://museum.nhra.com/apcm/templates/reunions.asp?articleid=16232&zoneid=48

Some time ago, NZSimon mentioned that he made silicon molds for the production of some taillight buckets.
What type of silicon should be used and what would be the procedure to make a reproduction of the recesses in the trunk lid skin and back side for the buckets, assuming I can find a donor trunk lid from which to make a mold......Thanks, Frank

I found thread on the HAMB, about the 06 B'Ville salt, that offers a link to You tube. There's two choices and the spin is in the top link at about 3:10 in the clip................Frank

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130541

While cruising home the other night I noticed that with my headlights on, in the bright position, the car developed a "intermittent short", I'm guessing.
The lights would dim or go out completely (I couldn't see while driving), the engine would miss and the dash lights would flicker off and on.
I closed the headlight switch which corrected the problem temporarily and when I pulled it back on the problem continued. I was able to eliminate the problem if I ran with the regular (low) beams on only.
It's an old style floor mounted headlight high beam switch that I'm using and it's mounted to the fiberglass floor.
Any ideas what's causing this and where I should look.
Thanks, Frank

What's with the subtitles under our  screen name/ Lot's of double references;
Kight RegularllLady
NoblemanllNoblewoman
CraftsmanllCraftswomen
...........all except moderators??

This trunk latch is out of a 94 Malibu. The black is ground, the black with white stripe is pos but I haven't a clue on the orange with black stripe. Nothing happens when I test with the orange. The black striped throws the solenoid. Thanks, Frank

I retrieved some horns at the local wrecking yard and would like to bench test them but am not sure how. What I've tried hasn't worked.
I've got the factory harness and plugs. Currently there are 6 wires in the dual horn harness. One thick black, 3 light gage ( two green and one red) and two more med gage with stared ring clips on their ends. I think they're the grounds. The red looks like it's for a uninstalled accessory.
What do I need to do to connect to my bench battery and hear um beep? thanks, Frank

Hi Guy's; If you run a 700R4 without the converter ever locking up (couple thousand miles), will this necessarily cause damage to the tranny? I'm assuming a increased heat factor and poorer mileage but what about the possibility of any assured internal damage?        
Thanks, Frank

My Craftsman corded hand drill started slipping while under a load. I took it apart and found that the ring gear was slipping on the shaft. It's presumably a pressed fit. In an attempt to fix the problem, it appears as though I might be able to drill a hole in a shoulder that's on one side of the gear and continue through the main shaft and exit through the shaft and then the shoulder on the opposite side. I'm thinking of trying to pin the gear to the shaft and although the shoulder is only 1/8" I'm concerned if this is a practical solution. I'm also wondering if the hardness of the gear and shaft make this a unrealistic resolution?
Yeah, I know, upgrade to a new drill but I like to repair things if possible or at least give it a thought process.
Any other ideas?   Thanks, Frank

OK, guys, listen up!
You need to read this before heading out to Home Depot or Harbor Freight and spending your $$ on power tools and other hardware.

DEFINITIONS
------------------------------

1. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly
painted part you were drying.

2. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "SH**!!!"

3. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

4. PLIERS: Used to round off hexagonal bolt heads.

5. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle: It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
future becomes.

6. VISE GRIP PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

7. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a wheel hub you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

8. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

9. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack handle firmly
under the bumper.

10. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 4X4: Used to attempt to lever an automobile upward off a hydraulic jack handle.

11. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing splinters of wood, especially Douglas fir.

12. TELEPHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.

13. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for removing dog feces from your boots.

14. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder
than any known drill bit.

15. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of bolts and
fuel lines you forgot to disconnect.

16. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.

17 AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

18. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home builder's own tanning booth. Sometimes called drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main
purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

19. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and squirt oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off the interiors of Phillips screw heads.

20. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to an Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 70 years ago by someone at Ford, and
rounds them off or twists them off.

21. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove
in order to replace a 50 cent part.

22. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.

23. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer now-a-days is used as a kind of
divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

24. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing upholstered items, chrome-plated metal, plastic parts and the other hand not holding the knife.

I hear the folks with subscriptions have their copy in hand. Come on folks spill the details...........Denise, pictures, we want pictures.....and details.

Incase anybody couldn't make it up to Detroit for the "chop the top exercise", Denise (Hotrodladycruiser) is posting the blow by blow for those interested.
The link is as follows;

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77976

Its titled; HAMB Chop GMB Style, Semi Live Updates

Not sure if I have a problem. It's full of fluid, the cable is taught , it still bangs the 1,2 shift and goes through the gears properly.
What has changed is the downshift into first. Originally I would have to come to a complete stop before it would drop into first. If I did a rolling stop (1,2 mph) I would start off in second. With about 4 thousand miles on the box it has now started dropping into first at about 3-5 miles an hour. Is something strange going on? Should I be worried? Any ideas or reasons........Thanks, Frank

How do you remove wax from black plastic surround, usually found on newer cars. I got a little over zealous and of course it has now turned white showing what a sloppy job I did. Thanks, Frank

Denise wrote, "He had to retard the timing from 16* to 9.5* which lowered my exhaust temp from over 500 degrees to 405."

I'm not getting this move. I always thought that as you retard the timing you cause the combustion cycle to be closer to the exhaust valve opening. Sometimes even being so retarded that the headers turn cherry red.
I didn't think advancing the timing (within reason) caused additional exhaust heat but would possibly cause the engine to actually run cooler.
What's the deal er thoughts about this?.......Frank

I liked the solution offered by a guy on the HAMB re the New Orleans problem. He stated (presumably with tongue in cheek) to bring in the cruise ships. Now admittedly I'm not a brain trust but let's do some numbers. 100,000 People times $15,000 each is 1 and a 1/2 billion. The $15m is roughly the $5000 a month x 3 cost while the city gets pumped out. Instant food and shelter after we commandeer 40 or so ships. An extra 1/2 billion for tongs, T's, shorts, a sheet to wrap yourself in and a swimming suit and we're there. No booze, no gambling and no excursions. Just 3 months of free room and board while floating around the high seas. It's quick, simple, the cruise lines still make $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and we, the tax payers, get off much cheaper......I'll bet. ....Frank
PS: The tips might suck............

Once again Bobby makes ink. Page 77 of the new GoodGuys Gazzett. That-a-way Bob. Nice 52-skadoo.......hoop di......

I used to be able to read a plug and know which way to go when attempting to alter the Air/Fuel ratio. When discussing that procedure recently, at a local cruise night, I was informed that with today's fuels it's extremely hard to do.
I ask because I've recently been attempting to lean out my carb and this leaning action has apparently made no change in my plug color. Still black like it's too rich.
The locals stated that it's the fuel additives that leave the plugs and tailpipes black making this procedure for A/F checking almost obsolete.
I know Ohio gets the worst gas because of no or very limited state regulation and I was just wondering if it's still possible to use this time tested method, or has it been compromised nationwide....Thanks, Frank

Has anyone ever changed out the module on a Mallory Unilite? I was going to pick up an extra module for the road box and was confronted with the cost of the part (around $65) or buy a whole new (refurbished) distributor for $100ish. I went for the whole deal and assumed I could pop the module in & out with ease. Apparently not so as the module is attached (glued) to the advance plate and the wires, after going through the case side hole, have the plug attached. Leaving me with you know the monkey trap where his hand is through a 4" hole in the hollow tree, holding on to an 8" coconut.
Not wanting to cut the wires I was wondering just what the instructions might be as far as replacing the module if one is purchased from Mallory.

Oh yeah, while I'm at it, how much effort should it be to move the advance plate. I opted for the vacuum option on this second unit and with the module loose and the diaphragm detached, I can move the plate but it's not easy. I was thinking of oiling it up but am not sure about the resistance required......Thanks Frank

George; I know you're planning to use the one offered by your company but to you and anybody else who needs software, I just picked up Norton Internet Security 2005 at Best Buy for almost free.
Mine was due for the annual fee charge so I went looking and found this deal. It listed for $69.99 with a instant rebate of $20. Another $20 mail in and an additional $30 if you are a Norton user currently (upgrade). So I only need to pay the tax on 50 scoots and I'm home free for another year.............Frank
PS: I had the professional 04 and am happy to go back to just the regular. The professional although also free at the time, had just too much stuff to be upgraded from time to time. Productivity, for example.

The build sheet says Mustang GT but not a year or type. I'm wondering if the stamped and casting #'s ID the unit as disc/disc or disc/drum, split reservoir or not and the year. On the bottom of the part are stamped numbers as follows; 10 26 3 1 followed by a raised 64. After the mid point break are D9BC (a logo) and a raised X. Thanks for any info.....Frank