Topics

Working on brakes on my 50 F1.
It has GM front disc brakes. 72 Monte Carlo
Ford drum brakes rear 9" rear. Narrowed rear. Large tires and wheels (wide)
Is there any reason I should put a adjustable proportioning valve on this set up or will a non-adjustable one work?
Thanks Mike

I am working on a 1950 F1.
If I have a full fan shroud can the fan blades be 4" to 5" away from the from the radiator or does it need to be closer.
Thanks Mike 

I have owned the motor for years. I bought a car with it in it. Took it out and built a new motor for the car.

Mid 70's 350 Chevy. Nothing special, probably all stock. I have never had heads or pan off.

10/40 oil

Cold start oil pressure is 50lbs

When the motor gets to 185/190 degrees oil pressure is 5lbs

Motor sounds good. No knocks or clatters or smoke.

oil pressure is from a new gauge set, electric.

What do you think?

Would a new oil pump help?

Maybe oil pick/up came off the pump

Any info would be great.
Thanks Mike

I just got a caster camber gauge and a pair of Snap-On turntables for front end alignment from a friend.

The caster camber gauge is a Ammco 2550. It looks real simple to use. It has about 7 lines of instructions printed on the gauge itself. The writing is right where it was grabbed most of the time during use and the writing is worn off.

I have looked all over the net for info on this gauge with no luck. I found one picture of one on ebay but the writing was worn off in the same place.

Does anyone have any info on this gauge?

Thanks for any Info
Mike

I Have a  1967 283 SBC on a run stand that is going into a car soon. I rebuilt it two years ago. Runs good. About a year ago I went to start it and it didn't seem to have spark. I didn't investigate, just let it sit tell today.

Stock points distributor

I am thinking points, condenser or coil.

My multi meter doesn't have the correct settings to check the condenser.
The points are burned a little but what I am not sure about is the arm that the moveable point is on is bluish brown from heat. Is that normal?

I have a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil. They are supposed to be internally resisted so I didn't put a ballast resistor on it. When it was running the coil seemed to get pretty hot and the motor didn't run very smooth once the coil got hot.

Tried checking the coil but I wasn't having any luck with my free HF multi meter

I need to charge the battery tomorrow. I will check for spark then.

What do you think about not having a ballast resistor with the Pertronix coil. And the blue points?

Thanks Mike

I wasn't having any luck finding the correct thickness paper or poster board for making templates for making brackets, patch panels, interior panels etc. I was using poster board from Walmart but it was to thin and to expensive.

Found this stuff at Home Depot. It is called Trimaco X Board. It is used to protect new flooring at  construction sites.

It is a roll, 35" x 100' (more than I will use in a lifetime). It was $32

It is the perfect thickness for making templates.

It wants to keep the curve in itself when you cut a piece off the roll but I found if I hit it with a heat gun for a few seconds it flattens out.

I have made a couple templates the last couple days and I really like it.

Mike

Do they make electric fan switches in 205 on 195 off. The kind that works off a ground wire. I have been looking but no luck
Thanks Mike

First off I will admit that I am not the best at this. And when I do get a little better at it I don't work on  a motor for years and I forget everything again.  
What am I doing wrong?  
 
Motor - Mid 70's 350 Chevy, nothing special  
 
Condition- compression, lowest cylinder 145 highest 155  
 
Distributor- Summit knock off of a GM HEI  
 
Valve train- everything working as it should, doesn't seem to be any cam problems, but I didn't measure lift on any of the intakes or exhausts.  
 
Problem:  
 
I can get the motor running perfect but when I do, the vacuum advance canister is either up against the valve cover or to close to the carb. And when I move the distributor one tooth it goes all the way over to the other side again, either to close to the cover or to close to the carb.  
 
Am I moving the distributor more than one tooth thinking I am only moving it one tooth?  
 
The other night I had the distributor out 5 times.  Pull #1 plug, put finger in plug hole roll motor over tell finger blows out. With  #1marked  on the distributor body. Put distributor in with the rotor lined up with the mark on distributor body. Put it all back together. Start motor, pop and snort rotate distributor towards valve cover smooths out runs great, starts great. vacuum canister up against valve cover.  
 
When I do the finger in plug hole, when it blows out I look at the timing mark I am close to 0 on timing tab. But when I put the timing light on it when it is running good it is way off. I have a timing light that you can push a button and it will tell you how far advanced you are. It is 35 degrees at idle (800rpms) with the vacuum line from the carb plugged and 65 degrees at 2000 rpms. I know it should be around 12 and 32  

I bought a car with this motor in it years ago. It has a after market cheapie timing tab on it. I know people have had problems with those.
 
What am I doing wrong?  
 
Thanks for the help  
Mike

Or they are also called beltline seals. I am working on a 37 Plymouth, getting ready to work on the side window glass. I have found a few places but not exactly what I need. I need 3/8" tall, 1/4" thick. Flexible so I can bend them and I would prefer no Stainless bead. These attach to the inside of the garnish molding with clips. Anyone know of a good place to get these?

Thanks Mike

Anybody going?

Seen it yesterday. Great Movie!!

I have seen quite a few times on the automotive shows on TV where the shops are using stands that they have built up out of 2x4's under each wheel.  Built up like cribbing the house movers and riggers use.

Does anyone here use these?

Do you think they are safe? One show had the stands under the wheels and also had jack stands.

I have a scissor lift and a lift that you drive on and jack the back up and swing the rear legs down. (don't want to use the names) They are both a pain in the back side sometimes. Gotta get rid of both of them and get a hoist.

Mike

What brand do you prefer. SBC, Stock heads, Gen 1

Thanks Mike

I am working on a 1967 283 SBC. I am using the original points distributor. I needed a coil so I bought a Pertronix 40011 Flame Thrower 1.5 OHM coil.

I went to Pertronix web site and it says that this is a "internally resisted" coil. Does this mean the coil will cut the voltage down while the motor is running, down to the 9 or so volts and not have to use a ballast resistor?

Also I am using solid core plug wires. Mostly because I had them and they were new. I did read some where that solid core wires worked good for points distributor. I guess they are not good for electronic devises like radios and ignition boxes.  I didn't have a coil wire, if I can't find solid core wire to make a coil wire out of can I use spiral core or silicone wire to make a coil wire?

Thanks for any Info
Mike

I'm building a engine run stand and looking for ideas for a fuel tank. I don't really want to buy a small fuel cell. To much $$
I have seen allot of guys just use a regular gas can.
I need same ideas.
Thanks Mike

Looking for safety glasses to wear in the garage that are readers.  I have a pair with the bifocal on the bottom and that just doesn't work for me.  Would like some with the entire lense with the magnification.  I wear the cheap cheaters you can buy at the big stores 3 pairs for $8 but they are not safe for shop work.

I have found a few online but I was wondering what everyone else uses.

Thanks
Mike

Working on a 37 Plymouth. Originally it had a crank out windshield. I am not going to use that. I would like to do the glued in style with the rubber bead/seal that covers the seam between the glass and the body.

This is straight glass. One piece.

I wouldn't mind having someone do it but I am open to do it my self.

Being this car had a crank out windshield the pinch weld is 1" back from the outside of the body. I need to make a spacer to weld in to take up some of that gap so once everything is installed the rubber trim will be level with the glass and the body.

I'm looking for advice on this whole process.

How close to the should I make the spacer to the edge of the body. I have to allow for the thickness of the glass and the urethane.

If anyone has been involved in this I could use some guidance.

Thanks allot
Mike

Getting a little older and my eyesight is getting blurry close up to about to 20" out beyond that I can see great.

Out working in my shop I am constantly switching between regular safety glasses to Walmart cheaters to safety glasses with bifocals.

Safety glasses with bifocals are like walking around with about 6 beers in you.

I have the little cheater plastic lense in my welding helmet. Close up I still use the walmart cheaters but if I have to stay away from my work I cant use the cheaters while welding.

Its just a constant battle trying to see good and be safe.

You guys have any thing that works for you.

I am a truck driver and have to get a DOT physical which has a eye test I do good on that. Just have problems out in the shop.

Thanks Mike

Anybody use them? Are they comfortable? Anybody try building them?

Thanks Mike

Will L60-15 tires with 3.25" back spacing on the wheel fit inside the rear wheel well of a 57 chevy car?  
 
This 57 chevy 4 dr hard top belair has been in my good friends family for around 40 years.  My friends father has the beginnings of alzheimer's and he would like to see it in the local cruise nights burn out contest Saturday night. It has to be drug out of a barn that it has been in for around 7 years, have a transmission put in it, wheel cylinders, carb  tires etc.etc. and get running in 2 1/2 days after work.  I might have some tires for it if they will fit. I am 25 miles from the car just thought someone here might have a idea if they will fit  
 
Thanks Mike

Thinking about getting a hoist.  
 
I have a quik lift. This is the one that you drive up on and use a floor jack to jack up the back and then flip the back legs down. It puts the bottom of the vehicle about 2' off the ground so you can work under it.  
 
I also have a scissor lift. You drive over it and it has arms similar to a hoist that you set up under the frame and it has its own hydraulics and it goes up about 53".  
 
The quik lift is good for doing anything under the car but you are always are on a creeper or on the floor. And you have to use a jacking platform that slides on the ramps to jack up the car to get a tire up off the ramp so you can work on brakes etc.  
 
The scissor lift has all the workings of the lift right under where the back of the motor and transmission is, making it hard to do any work in that area. It only goes up about 53" so you are always hunched over. On a low vehicle you have to have ramps to drive on so you can get up and over it to get your arms in place. It is really great for body work. You can get your work area at the right height for standing or sitting.  
 
I would sell both of these and get a hoist.  
 
There are allot of choices. But mainly right now I am trying to decide between 2 post and 4 post.  
 
With the 2 less than perfect lifts I have now I would say a 2 post would be my best bet because I am tired of the limitations I have.  
 
But  
 
I really like the fact that you can move a 4 post around and it isn't permanently bolted to the floor.  
But when you want to do work that involves having the wheels off your back to jacking up from the ramps.  
 
I have 6'' concrete and 16' ceilings  
 
Talk to me  
 
Thanks for any info and opinions  
 
Mike

Getting ready to do some wiring on my Plymouth.  The last car I wired I bought a few spools of wire from Graingers. It was chemical resistant, abrasion resistant really good wire but it was way to stiff to work with. Who sells that wire that is really soft but good quality and easy to work with?

I used a Enos Black box on my last car and I liked it. It looks like they have changed hands but it looks like the box is the same. I think I am going to use one of these again.

Thanks Mike

Hello everyone. I am here every day but don't post much.  I have a few questions.
I have been working on a 37 Plymouth 2dr sedan slant back for a long time and I just got serious about it again this fall. I bought the wheels for it years ago probably around 2000. They are steel smoothies. Along with the wheels I bought one cap and one beauty ring. I didn't want to by all four and not like them. Well I like them and now I want to get the other three rings and caps to match what I have. I have looked through all my receipts and the only info I can find about the wheels is that they are 20 series. I bought most of my stuff back then from a now out of business shop so I can't get any info from them.
What does the series numbers mean? There are 20,18,12,14 etc. Does it have to do with the style of bumps that are stamped into the wheel to hold the caps on? I want to say they are Wheel Vintiques but not sure.  The ring is smooth and the cap is plain with two ribs. I have been on the net looking without much luck. Just not confident enough to order.
Any info or help would be great.
Thanks Mike

Finally got my Model A out after 15 years of sitting. When I put it away back then I had a collector leak and I had bought these copper gaskets that were suppose to work good for leaks. The kit came with 2 copper gaskets and 2 hard fiber like gaskets that  almost feels like aluminum. My question is does it matter where I put the gaskets? Copper on top and fiber on bottom or the other way around. I don't remember getting any info with the gaskets. Any info or advise would be great. Years ago when I drove the car I always had collector leaks.

350 Chevy

Thanks Mike

Thought I would post this so it might help someone.

I have been working on a pickup we bought last fall.
While working on it I noticed that the right front wheel seemed a little harder to spin than the left front. When I got the work done on the truck that I wanted to do I took it for a ride to check it out. I did a real hard stop and it pulled to the left  bad.

So thinking the right front caliper's piston was sticking and making the left front do all the braking I put a new right front caliper on it.

Another ride  pull to the left bad

So I thought, the calipers are only $40 I will put a new left front caliper on.

Another ride pull to the left bad

Next day after work I look at all the steering components real good. change the steer tires side to side. remove rear brake drums check all the parts in there for wear, missing parts and froze up parts. All looks good.

Another ride pull to the left bad.

Called mechanic friend

Tell him everything

He said Mike your right front brake hose is collapsed

Next day put two new brake hoses on and take it for a ride.

Stops straight as a arrow

I just bought a 1998 Chevy Pick Up 2500 4x4. It spent its winters either in the garage here in Michigan or the previous owners took it to Arizona for the winter. It  hasn't seen much salt and the underneath of the truck is real nice. I will eventually be using it as a winter truck here in Michigan.

What would be a good thing to spray or brush on the under body, frame, fuel lines brake lines to help save it?

I have heard regular motor oil, transmission fluid. I even seen a guy on You tube that melts toilet bowl wax rings with boiled linseed oil and brushes the mixture on.  

Any Ideas other than not driving it in the winter. I really hate to but my other winter truck is slowly disappearing from the bottom up.

A friend told me it would be a good idea to put 12volts to my coil just while the motor is cranking over to give it more juice to start.  Is this a good idea and if it is should it come from the ignition switch from the "S" post or from the "S" post ont the started or does it matter being they are hooked up with the same wire?    1968 327

Thanks Mike

Somehow I lost my sway bar for my truck. It has a 1972 Monte Carlo sub frame under it. What cars can I get a sway bar off from that will fit?  Chevelle, Cutlas, Regal, Skylark, Lemans ??

Thanks  Mike

What is the post size for the r & s posts?  10-32  10/24 or ?

I am having a heck of a time getting up in there to get the right size nuts on there.  Low vehicles are fun.

Thanks Mike

This motor I have been asking all the carb questions about (68 327) has not been started in about 15 years. It was rebuilt, broke in and driven for maybe 30 miles and then nothing for all those years.  I have bared the motor over  a couple revolutions so it is not stuck.  Should I spray any oil in the cylinders?  I have a old distributor reworked so I can attach a drill motor on it to prime the oil pump but the intake will have to come off and it is too close to the fire wall to get the drill in there with out pulling the motor.  

I figure the pump is still primed so I think I will just roll it over with the starter with no gas and no plugs in it. Get some oil up top  and then start it.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks Mike

What is the fuel pressure on a stock over the counter fuel pump that would be bought for a 1968 327.

Thanks Mike

Just got a heater that came from here.

www.maradynemobile.com

Mike

On my 50 F1  I have front sub from a 72 Monte carlo.   The motor sits really low in the engine compartment. So it really looks out of place with a single 4 barrel carb and intake.  Years ago I got a good deal on a dual 4  barrel tunnel ram. It ia a Weiand intake with 2 edelbrock carb. I put it all on way back when and got it running ( have not drove it yet).

I have done a little reading on the HAMB. They have a good thread about 2-4's set ups. Everybody says use progressive linkage. My intake has the 4 runners coming up for the front four cylinders and carb mounting and 4 runners coming up for the rear four cylinders and carb mounting. The two groups of runners are not connected in anyway except for a cast in brace in between the two groups of runners.

How does progressive linkage work? Will it open both carbs at once or just the front or back leaving 4 cylinders not getting any fuel.

I know the truck will run better with a single 4 barrel but I really like the looks of this and am willing to put up with a few driveability problems.

I have it set up now with the linkage working both carbs at the same time. It works good with the pedal. If I can I  would like to leave it like it is because progressive linkage set-ups are not cheap.

I know I know let me have it    The good and bad of what I am doing.

Thanks Mike

Does the coil need to be mounted straight up and down or can it be
mounted on a angle say 45 degrees?
Old style coil 68 SBC

Thanks
Mike

I am getting ready to put one of those round tube type coolant recovery tanks on my P/U and I was wondering if there was a correct height to put it at.  Does the top of the tube inside that is the over flow have to be level with the top of the radiator or does it matter?

I can go lower but not really higher

SBC


Thanks Mike

What is a good hood latch to use. Either off a donor car or after market.  It would be for my ford pick up. Both the top and bottom are pretty flat.

Thanks Mike

Mike

I am full of questions

I think I said this before but if I didn't I had a shop graft a front frame clip on my F1. This was about 28 years ago so it was before they had Mustang 2 frame stubs for this truck. So anyway they used a cut off from a 72 Monte Carlo.  I have the swing pedal assembly and the booster from the same car.  The swing pedal is working good under the dash but the booster is tilted back at a 17* angle. This seems way to much. The front reservoir will only be half full before the brake fluid  starts running  out.

Somewhere in the Monte Carlo there must of been a angle built in to make the master cylinder and the booster close to flat. Maybe the swing pedal angled up from the fire wall up under the dash, this would straighten the booster out.

I am thinking of making a angled plate to fit in between the booster mount and the firewall. The shaft coming out of the booster pivots inside so I think I can do this as long as I don't but a bind anywhere in the brake pedal travel.

If I do this will I change the pedal ratio or cause any other problems?

How many degrees can the master be tilted back?

Thanks for any info

Mike

Do you need the coils in the brake lines going from the master cylinder down to the proportioning valve?  Are they there so they can flex and not break from the twisting of the body and frame.  If they have to be there how many do I need?

Thanks Mike

I put one of the IDIDIT Old School 36" columns in my truck. It can be shortened.  The column sticks into the engine compartment about a foot. Should I cut it up tight to the firewall or leave it the way it is. Either way it looks like a pretty easy hook up to the steering box.

Can the rag joint have a little bend in it or does it need to be straight with no angle in the rubber cloth part?

Thanks for the info
Mike

The next thing I need to do is get a seat mounted in the truck so I can decide on a shifter and steering column.

Is there any unwritten rule on what seat goes into a pick-up?  I have looked in a bunch of mags and it is about 50/50  half buckets half bench.

I have a set of bucket seats from a Astro van. As they are, they are to tall. I could cut down the base to get the height good but they are just to big for that small cab.

I also have a set of seats from a Trans Am, these are really nice and they are like new. They don't have any weird brackets, logos or seat belt things. I mounted them to the seat bases from the Astro seats and it  feels good. I could take a inch or so out of the height and it would be maybe a little better for me.  But I am 5'11"  and my wife if 5'4"  so it will be a little bit of a compromise for both of us.

I put a Teas Design seat in my 30 coupe and it is great, but they have gotten very $$$.  I am not ruling it out but if I can use the seats I have it would be good.

And if I use the Trans Am seats am I going to be able find material that will work for the rest of the interior that maches the seats?

What do you think about all this

Thanks Mike

A friend of mine is planning on putting air ride rear suspension in his 50 Chevy Business Mans Coupe.   He has never done it before and is looking for information. He would like to find a site on the internet that gives info on what bags are best for different application, what air pressures, what ride height the bags should be set at for the best ride when its at ride height.  He already has mounted a triangulated 4 bar set up.

I spent about a hour on the internet looking for info but i could not find much.

Has anyone got a site I could tell him about or any knowledge about this.

All he want to do is cruise at ride height that he has set up and then if he is at a show let some air out of it so it will be lower.  And he just wants to do this manually with some kind of dash mounted pressure gauge and control.

Thanks Mike

I am thinking I would like to build a bed cover for my truck.

What I would like to build it out of is 1/8" aluminum for the top. I have  a set of those Sashe Rod Shop hinges. Two latches,  hooked together so they will work with one opener.  A couple of heavy duty gas shocks.  Hinges on the passenger side of the box, latches on drivers side of box.

Doesn't need to be water tight. I just want it to be simple looking without a bunch of gadgets and gaskets.

Problems----   I think the 1/8" aluminum will be to heavy and it will sag from front to back without any frame work underneath.  The bed is 49" wide so that means  a 48" sheet will not work. Adding the inch would be a night mare

What about a 1" thin wall sq tubing frame work double side with 16 gauge sheet metal.  Still have the 49" problem though.

Any ideas??

My brain keeps going back to the 1 sheet of aluminum, two hinges, two latches and two gas shocks but i don't think it will work

Thanks Mike

Hello   My name is Mike I live up in Sterling Michigan. I was on here quite a few years ago, I was 30 Coupe back then but my email address has changed since the last time I posted so I had to think of a new user name. I still have the 30 Ford coupe but that is all done and I am back working on my 1950 Ford F1

I have been out West a few times with Sumner (1FATGMC) and I have met Tony, River1, Glen, DRD57. You guys probably don't remember me because it was a long time ago.

I have owned my 50 since 1978. The first time I did it it had the stock suspension, 302, fmx and I forget what the rear end was, 8" ford I think. In 1985 I wanted something different so I took it apart and started over. Now it has a 327, turbo 400, 9" ford narrowed, 4 bar coil over rear suspension, 33 x 19.5-15 mickey thompson rear tires tucked up under the fenders, bed shortened 9", top chopped 6", front frame clip from a 72 monte carlo.   Some of the work I farmed out because I didn't figure I had the talent to do it but now 20 years later I am fixing allot of problems I paid to have done.   It has a long way to go but I am back on it and having fun.  

I am sure I will have allot of questions and problems you guys can help me with.

Mike