Topics

Trying to find the best wires to run on my 46 Ford with the 302. I run a Bluetooth receiver rather then a stereo in the car and I am getting a lot of feedback threw the speakers.
The distributor requires a high output coil (45,000 Volt Oil Filled Canister Male Ignition Coil). I am currently running BLOCK PERFORMANCE 350 ohm, 8.5mm, Silicone spiral core. When I do a search all I get is adds for each company claiming how good they are.
Thanks.

Who is going to Kalamazoo this year? I should have the car back from the alignment shop tonight so I can make the drive down.

So we had the wheel bearing issue and it tore front caliper off the car when it came apart. My question is how do I get a proportioning valve with no residuals in it? In a newer car the proportioning valve would have close off the front brakes and I would have had rear brakes still. In this case, I have a dual master and I had no rear brakes. Photo attached is the setup I have currently.

Looking for a manual to trouble shoot my cruise. Green ON light comes on but the ON/Increase light will not go on.

Heading down to Knoxville for the South show and I was wondering who else is going.

Looking for the best wat to remove laminated glass from the stainless frame. I tried heat and mineral spirits. Those don't work. Any suggestion?

Working on a vacuum leak at high rpm. When I get on the expressway or pass someone my heater doors close. I have checked all the heater system and believe there is no issues there. Working on the emission/fuel canister in the RH fender and I do not get any resistance/hold. I do not get any hold with a vacuum gauge at any point.

I have my optimism set on high. Registration  in hand #49. Not the normal high number I would normally get so I may have plenty of spots to park.
:cry:

Purchased a kit for Vickie's Truck last winter and we still haven't been able to get functioning properly. I have the second box off the truck now and the second pump on the truck, The vendor sends new parts but has not solved the issues. the steering get bind spots. Some times the power steering will work great other times it squeals and binds up.
If i raise the trucks front end it is great, any weight on the tires and we are done.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/111738603121?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=111738603121&targetid=1068258543489&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9017428&poi=&campaignid=11614527734&mkgroupid=111536105245&rlsatarget=pla-1068258543489&abcId=9300457&merchantid=115330923&gclid=CjwKCAiAmrOBBhA0EiwArn3mfCm4kqEm1R6uxNDjHrQXxlNw1cNhxetmUdc3eq-uAdWYqWorjZlh1hoCkHkQAvD_BwE
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picture test

Looking at a purchase in Ferndale, MI but I can't get out there for a few weeks. Anyone near there who could help me out. Thanks

Damaged my power steering pulley when I too it off now I can not find a replacement or the correct application for it.
Measures 5-1/4" OD with a 5/8" ID V- belt. Pump is a 78 Bronco.

I want to put 5 x 4.5 wheels on Vickie's truck and It currently has 5 x 5 bolt pattern. Is there a front rotor swap? A previous owner swapped out rear ends in the past. The rear end seams to wide for the truck so we may swap out for a little narrower one with a 8" or 9"

Look what popped up today.
https://www.wlox.com/video/2019/10/08/cruisin-coast-monday-classic-car-day/

Rebuilding an old clock to put in my street rod and I was wondering if I will have any issues with the points set up on the clock?
I can manually get the clock to work. I hooked up a 7 volt tool battery in reverse polarity and got sparks but that was prior to freeing everything up.
Will I be able to use the clock with 12 volts and if so will I need to hook it up in reverse? My brain tells me that the points don't care as long as it has pos and neg.

I have the heater out of the streetrod trying to get better defrosters. Not sure what the heater is originally out of but I think it is from one of the 41 Fords that I used for parts.
Fan is reverse polarity and blows excellent in both directions. All the air for the defrosters is exiting between the defroster setup and box.
Should the space be blocked off originally? My fear is that I will burn up the fan when it is on heat if I close it in.
The box mounts up against the firewall so there is minimal openings in the back.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fpzbFh6surg32sAL7

Anyone going to the Kzoo or Columbus Spring swap meets?

Mid Ohio Ford Club Presents Columbus Spring Swap Meet
April 6, 2019 - April 7, 2019

Kalamazoo Winter Swap Meet K.A.A.R.C.
Feb 3, 2019 - Feb 4, 2019
https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47237269_2070190096377710_7775471778926690304_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=b3da08193fad19ee09485c5638ab4501&oe=5CCE2B44

Congratulations Don, the new Street Rodder magazine is out and YOU are IN. Page 34 Lower right. (You should have been TOP RIGHT)

Trying to install a new bumper cover after hitting a deer and I can not find a bumper cover locator pin.
Mad of plastic and mounts up in the top to hold the sides up on the fenders. Anyone know where to get them or what they are called? Otherwise I am off to the dealer on Wednesday. The one pictured is from the other side            
Thanks
https://photos.app.goo.gl/e1KLJpirC46VarpZ9

Anybody in LaHabra area who would pick up and ship some parts for me? Seller will not ship for me. Thanks

Trying to get the defrosted to work in the Strretrod this winter. I sold the original one and this one is out of one of the parts cars. Not sure of the year. I am assuming that I need to have a reverse polarity switch for the fan and I would need to have one or more of the doors open on the front of the box to get it to work.
I was recently told that Ford never used a reverse polarity switch so I was doing something wrong..... I don't see another option, this is why I am asking for help.

It's a must see.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3v3z9TuGiA

Thank you Veterans. All of you. If not for what you have done WE would not be able to do what we do.

Not sure what happened when I put the engine back in Vickie's car. Re installed the carb, cap and plug wires. I installed the wires in the wrong order due to two different marks on the cap. Backfired the engine with a Holley on it so I replace the power valve trying to get it to run right, still not running correctly.
Cleaned the plug, re gaped, reinstalled. I can pull the wires and see all eight are firing but I can remove four of them and there is no change to the idle.  
Thought?

https://goo.gl/photos/ECSpCo2BiV5tPVP29

https://goo.gl/photos/ZGo7xuQr9o6PP6kaA

I have been fighting the clutch issues on my buddy Vance's car for weeks now.  We bleed the brakes as instructed, we adjusted the pedal rod and almost every other thing that it takes to make it work. We are missing something or we have a junk part....
According to the parts store they don't have defective parts......(still laughing at that one)
We have a McLeod clutch rod set up, Howe throw out bearing and a Cengterforce clutch.
https://goo.gl/photos/kM3ki4nFUT4oYVUr9

We have no air in the system according to the lack of air bubbles in the fluid tub when the bleeder is sitting in it and we go threw the motions,

We are only getting about a 1/4" of movement in the throw out bearing. We pulled the trans back out last night to check movement on the bearing and it is the same as what we saw threw the fork opening.

We had to install something to eliminate the Zbar with the new sub frame.

We already missed the first car show now next week is in danger also...HELP

Thanks Dave

Ok guys, is there a way to repair or replace the stock sway bar on the front of a 41 Ford car without removing the backing plates and brakes?
This is on my buddy's car so I have not seen it. The sway bar is off the car now and he wants to put it back on someday but not during driving season. (He should have done it this winter)

Who's going to Detroit Autorama this year and where are you staying? I see BobK had some rooms available but I have not contacted him yet to see if he still has any left.

Some stereo information for those of us who are out of the loop when it comes to the latest and greatest.
And for those who know less than I do, you will find this interesting also.

Those of you who have seen my car know I run a 55 Ford radio in the console of my 46. The radio did not work and I did not need it to.  I saw a thread on the HAMB for IPODS in car so I installed a PAC a/v output adapter.
After a while we stopped using the IPODS and used our smart phones to carry our music. We were still using the adapter we installed but we were using the headphone jack now rather than the IPOD plug.
While building the new console I wanted to eliminate the cord that hung out of the console so I went to Radio Shack to find a panel mount headphone jack. While I was there I ask him if they had come out with a Bluetooth receiver I could plug into my volume control (PAC lc-1 volume control).
I was surprised when he shown it to me. Best Buy was not able to help me when I ask them but I am all set now.  I purchased a Radio Shack CONNECT IT Bluetooth receiver. I will hard wire it into a keyed hot for charging and my car will now have a Bluetooth stereo system. I will be able to hear my smartphone navigation threw it also.

https://goo.gl/photos/B7XVucSbSyHHQ6si8

Does anyone have a plug for 86-90 Chevy switch. Getting hard to find the old stuff around here and the time to go look for it. Dark when I get to work and dark when I leave work....

Power Window Switch 4 Button 10 Prong Chrome for Buick Cadillac Chevy Oldsmobile
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Window-Switch-4-Button-10-Prong-Chrome-for-Buick-Cadillac-Chevy-Oldsmobile-/351010282176

Thanks in advance.

Does anyone in Toledo area have a use for a $300.00 gift certificate (or $500 for a car shell) to there shop? I got it at a show here in South Haven and do not have a use for it at this time. It expires 12/31/15.
Dave

Ok I've waited as long as I can. Who's going to Louisville?

Any one going to the show or swap meet? Vickie and I are thinking about heading down there Friday morning.
We have not been to the show or swap meet before so we we hoping for some friendly faces to meet up with or even Bob.    :-}

Let me start off by saying thanks to phat rat.
What I did can be done on a lot of Fords. Just not sure what years and what may need to change.

What you need.
Power window motor
   (Left hand Hollander 617-174L, Dorman 742-250)
   (Right hand Hollander 617-205, Dorman 742-251)
Threaded rod (10-32)
Nuts (10-32)



I was told that I could install power windows in my 46 by just adding a power window motor to my original regulators. I was told that Ford used the same gear for many years and this is what phat rat had in his car.
I ordered up a window motor for a 81 ford and went through the set-up just for find out that the motor was too big. He did tell me that he used the SMALL motor. Now I know why....
Here are the steps I used on the SMALL motor.
I purchased a power window motor for a 69 Torino from NAPA.
Remove or in my case grade the spare window regulator.

Remove the crank shaft and the pocket on the back side of the regulator that hold the shaft.


Grind the excess off to make look like a pro did the work not a hack. There is plenty of room for that later.

Set the motor on the back side of the regulator with the gears matched up and mark the two holes. The motor should stand upright in the car or 90* to the door mount.
(The one hole will be close to the factory nut, try and give yourself as much room possible for about a 3/16" hole)

Center punch the two locations and drill the holes.

I purchased a piece of threaded rod 10-32 and about a dozen nuts to help me figure this out and to have in the garage for stock.

The motor needs to be raised up off of the regulator so I cut two piece of threaded rod at about 4" and screw them into the motor mounting holes. Installed one nut on each rod and checked to make sure the holes were in the correct spot for the motor to slide down into position. Adjust hole location if needed.

I then cut two pieces of ½" square ground them as needed to fit over the two hole so I could drill them or in my case grind out a slot for the threaded rod to pass through.  I then installed the motor and rods again, tighten them down and check for clearance. If everything is good, weld them on.

Install the motor and flip the assembly over to add the third mount. I installed put a 1/2" square on mine, flush to the bottom of the regulator face. Welded it on, marked my hole and removed the motor. Once the motor was removed I welded the back side and drilled the clearance hole.

Since there is no way to get at the holes without drilling holes in the door and fighting to hold the motor in place while installing it, I opted studs and nut to mount the motor.

The three holes that have the studs will need the studs removed and drilled out for clearance. I also counter sunk the three holes on the back of the regulator for a better weld.

Install studs and a nut through the motor and into the holes so the studs are about flush with the back of the regulator and weld them in place. Remove the nuts, trim the rods long enough to install a lock nut or a double nut set up. Whatever your preference is. I will be using a lock nut and Loctite.

That's it.
Now re-install them and run your wiring.
















Hope this help someone else also.

Anyone in Denver who knows someone looking to get into the car hobby.
I am in MI and that looks a lot better then what I started out with.
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4886177624.html

Can anyone help Vickie and I locate a tail panel for her car. There is a lot more to it then just hammering out an new one since ours is hit and rusted.
68 or 69 Torino or Fairlane fastback only.

Thanks

Anyone other then me going to the swap meet in February?
http://www.kaarc.org/ka/Portals/0/PDF/flyer.pdf

I was looking for more projects to work on so one of my plugs decided to pop out on our Expedition.
It is on the right side and it is not the number one cylinder from what I can tell.
How much of a pain is it to do this repair without removing the head? It looks very tight in there and the engine has 248,000 miles on it.
I would consider myself a mechanic as far as skills go. I just don't do it for a living anymore.
Thanks

I figured I would post up some pictures of the Vickie's car to keep track of and keep me and her motivated to get it done.

The starting point.

Well the car has been down since Nats North in Kzoo.

It kept running out of fuel high speeds. I drove the last 40 miles home on the back roads and she ran alright.

Took it out a couple of time and she did the same thing. I pulled the filter (one of the cheap 3/8 inline metal filter I had mounted under the car and replaced it with the same thing.
Cut it open and she looked like metal shaving from me cutting it open. Other then that it was fine.

Took it out and it ran fine on the express way for about 4 miles then the same thing.

Drove it home and pulled the front bowl and found metal dust in the carb, It all came out with a magnet. Tried to drive it after that and she still has problems and now it's dying at all speeds.

Took the front bowl off and she is clean still.

Pulled the tank tonight and she was clean as was when I put it in.
Drained the gas and put it threw a filter. Clean.
Besides sending the carb in and having it gone completely through again what do I do.

I will pull the fuel line tomorrow and blow it out. Everything is new on this car.
Everything except the fuel line and tank were replace two years ago when this carb gave me problems. I was gone through three time that month looking for issues.

I had a glass inline filter in it till I mounted the fuel pressure regulator. Now there is no room for it other then below the power steering pump.




black is overspay from factory.

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This one my is one of those things that would go unnoticed if my wife and I had purchased a painted car.
My wife and I were looking for a 68-69 Torino fastback to build and we found "Rust Free" Fairlane shell in Tenn. On C.L. Matching the description.
A buddy and I went down looked the car over and the owner told us they put Torino badges on the car. We purchased the car and brought it home back in August of last year.
The Torino and Fairlane vin tag in the RH windshield and stamped in the shock towers. The fenders are not cut out like a Mustang fender to see the vin stamped in the shock towers.
The vin number in the windshield matched the vin on the title.
Once I removed the fender to do some cleaning I noticed the vin numbers did not match the vin in the window. I then removed the dash and the vin tag in the window was taped down, not rivited.
We called the person we purchased the car from and got the blow off. We informed him we were contacting the police and having the car inspected and he would be contacted if it came back stolen.

As of last week, we now own a legal 1968 Torino.

I am stripping the multitude of paint off my wife's Torino and shooting it with self etching pirmer. The fenders have some dents that will need to be addressed by a body man when the time comes.
The fenders are rust free as far as holes goes but the underside has some surface rust. I do not want to send them out and have them stripped for the minor surface rust and would like to just shoot them with a rust inhibiting primer.
I want to paint the underside with chassis black when the time comes but there will be hammering done on the inner fender before then.

Is this the proper step or should I be doing something different. All the cars I have worked on in the past were blasted to bare metal and then worked on.

Picture of the new project.

Wondering what plugs I should be using in my 46. Running 302 /C4 77 heads and 68 bottom end. Mainly stock. Edelbrock Performer Aluminum 4V 289/302 and a Holley 600.
Plug seem to be fouling out rather quickly.
I currently have Autolite 26 plugs in it.

Seems like everyone I spoke to though I knew more then I do about modifying an engine. I had a stud pull out of my 302 cylinder heads last year so I sent them in for a rebuild. Installed roller rocker, and screw in studs because everyone said it would help performance. Installed guide plates because I had it keep the rod in line. No one said I should replace the rods with hardened rods.
After 120 miles on stock ones, they look like bananas. Lucky for me, the week one gave out leaving the drive way Sunday.

Anyone else going to Fowlerville this weekend for the swap meet?

Going to be working on the front end of my car here in a few weeks and would like some  input on 5/8" narrower control arms.

The brand battle will be one issue. This is what I am planning on  (Ford Mustang 2 Tubular Control Arms for Coil Springs - Black Finish [APSPS500Complete] )

I have already had issues with the needing wider parts them most. The MII cross-member was purchased back in the early 90's so I don't remember who I purchased it from.
When I installed it in the car I had called them to complain that it was to wide to fit in between my rails and they told me my car was hit and the frame was bent. I disagreed and cut some of the inner cross-member out to fit the frame.
15 years later the car is on the road. Chassie engineering sway bar #SB-4148PM was 2" to narrow so I had to order the wider one. Stock Mustang rack was to narrow for the alignment so I had to order inner tie rod extension kit.
Now I want to lower the front end so the car does not resemble a gasser.

My rims are available in two narrower sizes. One gets me a 1/2" clearance and the other  is only 4" and I don't want that narrow of a wheel on Michigan roads.

So what kind of issue am I going to have with the narrower control arms?
Things I am assuming:
I will be welding the lower control are kicker on under the finished car.
Cutting off the torsion bar mounts on the frame.
Removing the tie rod extensions
New alignment
and I may still need to buy narrower rims and tires.

What am I missing?
 

Anyone other then me going to the swap meet in February?
LINK TO FLYER   http://www.kaarc.org/ka/Portals/0/PDF/flyer.pdf

My car started to get a ticking sound this year and as the summer went on it got pretty load. Pulled the valve cover off back in September and found were the noise was coming from. I have a 68 302 with 77 302 heads with the pressed in studs.
My rockers have the rounded washers and the nuts are torqued down.
Been looking for a pair of GT40 heads but did not know if I need to worry about the rockers on heads....
Found this engine for sale locally(351W not sure of year yet) and may pick it up and take the heads and rockers off for my engine.
Can I do this or do I need to keep my rockers?

Thanks
Dave

Well my Chevy has me stumped. 1994 Suburban 1500 with a 350 gas engine. Drove the truck into the barn to install some new tires, muffler and tail pipe. Started it back up and she ran for about 2 minutes and died.
Truck has spark.
Fuel pump works and has fuel to the back of the throttle body.
No signal at NOID
No Codes appearing on scanner.
Replace computer.

Someone said the crank sensor is bad, but I don't see a crank sensor available for this vehicle.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Dave

Can I purchase a replacement vin tag from a reputable supplier? I have a Marti report and a clear title but the vin number is wrong. Police have inspected the car and it is clean.
Looking for a new dash tag.
Thanks Dave

Hello everyone.
As a young guy(according to Phatrat) is it worth my money to join the NSRA? I love the shows that I have been to but the amount of money to show my car at one event is quite a bit.
I can give my congressman a call any time I need to and at this point have never done it. I am concerned with the EPA regulation also but do not see the NSRA doing anything here in Michigan.
Do not want to start an argument on my second post. I am looking for info from others who can enlighten me.
Thanks Dave.