Fusible link upgrade to maxi fuse?

Started by 58Apache, November 30, 2005, 06:27:46 PM

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58Apache

Hi,
    I'm helping a guy rewire his car using an aftermarket harness. We got to where it's time to install the fusible link, and I'm thinking, this is going to be  down on the starter solenoid (GM Small block with headers), it's incredibly small diameter wire ( I know, that's the point) and it just seems like with it being a pain to change if it ever went out on the road, isn't there a better way?

Thinking about doing the Ford fender solenoid upgrade though. I am thinking a generic one at the local parts store is cheaper than a "kit" from a business?

Didn't I read that fusible links were Detroit's way of saving money on a fuse?

What about a maxi-fuse? Why wouldn't one of these work?

The diameter on the link included in the kit looks to be about 20 gauge. I could be off by 2, but no more than that!  This has to carry the current to the entire fuse box for internal use?  

Any idea what amperage maxi fuse we would need to use that would roughly be the equivelant of the fusible link rating? Normally I'd say it depends on what the total current draw of the items needing the power, but with the fusible link already being a fixed diameter/rating, there must be a general figure to start with? I don't think he's going to have many aux devices at first, but that may change later.

Finally, where's the best place to buy Skip's book, and is there a more recent one?

                                           Steve

parklane

I had a 54 Chev p/u with a sbc, headers etc, and wanted a solenoid away from all the heat also. Just used a Ford, and it worked like a charm.

John :D
If a blind person wears sunglasses, why doesn\'t a deaf person wear earmuffs??

jaybee

Quote from: "58Apache"Any idea what amperage maxi fuse we would need to use that would roughly be the equivelant of the fusible link rating? Normally I'd say it depends on what the total current draw of the items needing the power, but with the fusible link already being a fixed diameter/rating, there must be a general figure to start with? I don't think he's going to have many aux devices at first, but that may change later.
                                          Steve

My Contour uses a 50 amp Maxi Fuse.  It doesn't have power seats but does have all the other "normal" accessories expected on a late model car.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

Ed ke6bnl

Quote from: "parklane"I had a 54 Chev p/u with a sbc, headers etc, and wanted a solenoid away from all the heat also. Just used a Ford, and it worked like a charm.

John :D

when you use the ford solenoid do you use the wire from the key to energize the coil and the hot large contact wire goes to the small S on the starter AND the big lead on the starter??? thanks Ed
1948 F3, parts
1950 F1 SteetRod,
1949 F1 V8 flathead stocker
1948 F6 V8 SBC,
1953 Chevy 3100 AD pu future project& 85 s10 longbed for chassis
1972 Chopped El Camino daily driver
1968 Mustang Coupe
1998.5 Dodge 4x4 cummins 4door, 35"bfg,

WZ JUNK

Quote from: "58Apache"Finally, where's the best place to buy Skip's book, and is there a more recent one?

    I have seen Skip's book at most large bookstores in the automotive section.  You can order it online or from Tex Smith.  I bought mine from Tex Smith at a show years ago and I had him autograph it even though he was just the distributor.  Skip's book is a valuable resource to have.  Mine is weathered and dog eared but so is most of the other stuff I own.
WZ JUNK
Chopped 48 Chevy Truck
Former Crew chief #974 1953 Studebaker   
Past Bonneville record holder B/BGCC 249.9 MPH

rooster

I put a 30 amp in mine, did just what your talking about!

348tripower

I used the Maxi Fuse in my 48 F1. It works good and I do mean works! I fried a couple setting this thing up and it saved my butt.
Don Colliau

parklane

Quote from: "Ed ke6bnl"
Quote from: "parklane"I had a 54 Chev p/u with a sbc, headers etc, and wanted a solenoid away from all the heat also. Just used a Ford, and it worked like a charm.

John :D

when you use the ford solenoid do you use the wire from the key to energize the coil and the hot large contact wire goes to the small S on the starter AND the big lead on the starter??? thanks Ed

I think so, but can't remember for sure.  :?  That was about 14 years ago

John
If a blind person wears sunglasses, why doesn\'t a deaf person wear earmuffs??

enjenjo

Quote from: "parklane"
Quote from: "Ed ke6bnl"
Quote from: "parklane"I had a 54 Chev p/u with a sbc, headers etc, and wanted a solenoid away from all the heat also. Just used a Ford, and it worked like a charm.

John :D

when you use the ford solenoid do you use the wire from the key to energize the coil and the hot large contact wire goes to the small S on the starter AND the big lead on the starter??? thanks Ed

I think so, but can't remember for sure.  :?  That was about 14 years ago

John

Yes, when the job is finished there is one large wire to the starter battery terminal, with a jumper to the S terminal.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

58Apache

Which brings the question of what type and diameter battery cables are you guys using?

Also, if you make your own, what method do you use to attach terminals?

         
                                           Steve

Pope Downunder

Quote from: "58Apache"Hi,
    I'm helping a guy rewire his car using an aftermarket harness. We got to where it's time to install the fusible link, and I'm thinking, this is going to be  down on the starter solenoid (GM Small block with headers), it's incredibly small diameter wire ( I know, that's the point) and it just seems like with it being a pain to change if it ever went out on the road, isn't there a better way?

Didn't I read that fusible links were Detroit's way of saving money on a fuse?

What about a maxi-fuse? Why wouldn't one of these work?

The diameter on the link included in the kit looks to be about 20 gauge. I could be off by 2, but no more than that!  This has to carry the current to the entire fuse box for internal use?  

snip
                                           Steve
The fusible link must be a reliable and economical method, as you see very few fried.  I would have no hesitation using one.  If you do replace it, it is best to do so in the same location (near to the source of power) rather than inside the car.  If the maxi-fuse is on the circuit board, or inside the car, then the section of cable from the starter to that point is unprotected.

enjenjo

Quote from: "58Apache"Which brings the question of what type and diameter battery cables are you guys using?

Also, if you make your own, what method do you use to attach terminals?

         
                                           Steve

I use no.2 cable, and crimp on ends most of the time. Although I tried solder on ends from NAPA and they seem to work good too. I will not use the bolt on ends, they are nothing but trouble. I run the power direct to the starter solenoid, and ranch off there for the other circuits. Ground cable from the battery dirctly to the engine, with other grounds from the engine to the body, and to the frame. I generally weld a stud to the inside of the firewall, and use that for all grounds inside the car. As far as fueable links and maxifuses, if there is a computer involved, I use a maxifuse, otherwise I use either. The maxifuse will blow almost instantly if there is a short, a fueable link takes a bit longer.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.