Topics

From the beginning I messed up and did not recess the firewall enough in my 36 Sedan. The problem this created was lack of room to run an adequate cooling fan. I decided to remedy that this winter. here are some photos of the progress so far... 

After determining the needed set back I proceeded to remove the offending section.

We bent up a one piece insert, leveled and tacked it in.

The beads on the top slanted area were shortened in this cut so I too k the ends that were removed to reattach shorter to allow a finished look to the beads.

As it currently sits there is a little finish body work and a couple small pieces to attach at the bottom I decided were needed to fill a gap.

moose

A few progress pics of my coupe

are we not able to quote a message reply? I attempted to quote a reply and when I click on the quote button nothing to quote comes up.

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A friend just purchased a 39  Ford Sedan. It has a stock Mustang II front end grafted on. The Steering rack is mounted with the narrow 12 inch spacing holes on a stock 3 bolt power steering rack. It is leaking. Does the Brain Trust know if the stock cross member is tapped to mount using the wider spacing of the current available racks?

Salutations to the Brain Trust,

You Folk are ALMOST always up with correct tech assistance!

I have a low speed surge issue in my 36 Sedan. 300ish horse Jasper street engine. 350 Chevy, 500 cfm Edelbrock preformer, 15 inches vacuum, have the sliver step up spring installed, Pertronics Blaster dist with the correct coil. 350 TH trans, 8 in rear with 2.79 gears. at off idle and up to about 35 mph I have a surge/stumble if I let the trans shift in drive I am in third at about 25 ish mph. If I drop the trans down to 2 the surge goes away. It starts and idles fine.

Am I just under geared, under carbed, any direction to correct this?

Thanks
moose

Is it possible to directly insert a picture in a PM? Brainfade I could'nt see a link to insert one from my PC.

Thanks

Greetings All,

Cleaning the housing on a 200R-4 transmission. On the top of the bellhousing are raised cast numbers 405, a larger 5 and below them is G. two questions What do they signify and confirm there is no harm in sanding them off for a clean appearance.

Thanks

moose

Looks like 348 Tripower made the winners circle in Louisville once again! Congrats Don!

This Sunday in Grand Rapids Ohio! They are happening again. You going Frank?

I want to run a Model A shell on my Coupe project. Too many with Deuce shells. But I have always thought a stock Model A radiator shell on a hotrod had a bent look from the side. So I set out to fix that for mine.

I cut and tapered the front of the shell 5/8 inch to maintain a pleasing flow from the cowl thru the hood line to the nose. I cut out and replaced over 1/2 inch of filler someone had used in their attempt to fill the neck opening.

I also filled the crank hole that was also crudely filled.

Included is what I probably will use as a grill. I am also fitting a two piece hood top.

Just saw a copy of a letter sent to distributors as of today Walker Radiator is closed...

For those who might not have heard the NSRA Nats North has officially been canceled for 2020...

I have found this social distancing to be totally EXHAUSTING! Getting some work on the Coupe chassis. Be safe and Healthy everyone!

Word just in the Cleveland IX center Piston Powered car show has officially been canceled this weekend!

Just spreading the word if anyone was planning to head there this weekend!

Anyone going to the Chicago World of Wheels show this weekend? If so stop by the Chicago Brushmasters paint area and say hi. I will be there slinging paint for the charity auctions.

moose

Howdy all!
0n the 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet C-10 pick-up does the inner front wheel well mount to the outside of the fender lip?
Tim

Has anyone used the H4 LED conversion lamps like the ones pictures? Claim is 6000 kelvin output. Just wondering if they are worth the dollars to put behind the glass lenses on early cars.

Greetings all,
I am in the market for a good air powered saw. Looking for recommendations. Which brand / model would you purchase?

moose

Has anyone here used the Headwinds sealed beam conversion kits? If so how well did they fit? Looking for a sealed beam conversion for my 36 Ford headlamps. I had 40's commercial truck adapters in the ones that were destroyed and I have not been able to locate a replacement set.

Has anyone had personnel experience filing a claim with Grundy Insurance on a collector car? I find I am in need and was curious how they are to deal with. My 36 Ford has become a custom by crunch... I will be calling them today or tomorrow but was curious what hoops they have you jump thru on a claim.

Oh well just think of the gas I will now save not cruising this summer.

 

Any of the members going to the Ypsi Area Street Rods show in Riverside Park Depot Town Ypsilanti, MI this Sunday? You gonna bring the new Ride Don?

Got the Coupe back from media blasting and am proceeding with the finish body work. Is there a good technique / product to seal behind the drip rails? I replaced them as part of repairing the body. they were weld thru primed before they were plug welded from the back. I am sure that is not adequate for rust prevention and I do not want rust bleeding down the road. It WILL see water !

Thanks

Tim

Greetings one and All,

Its been awhile since I posted about my Coupe. It has returned from the media blaster all clean and ready for final body work. I have been remiss in taking progress pictures but here are a few. I have finished all the rough metal and fab work. I inset the license plate and buckets for the tail lights, added a 32 style cowl vent, replaced the missing wheel tubs braced the flooring etc. I still need to cut and weld in the "C" for exhaust clearance...

Greetings All, What is the current thinking about body fillers? In the old days everyone recommended that filler be applied over bare steel. With the new polyester fillers and primers there is a trend to apply filler over the base primer. I am getting ready to media blast the Coupe body to start final body work and want to have the best chance for long paint life!@

Thanks

Tim

Has any of the Michigan members been denied body shop supply sales to be shipped into Michigan? We tried to place an order with Summit and were told that they could no longer ship fillers, primers, paint, etc into Michigan??? Supposed to be some new law?

moose

Helping a good friend skin the top for his 32 Roadster Pick-up need to shear the material for the center pieces and cut out the window opening and frame it.

Everyone have a safe and Happy Fourth !!! remember out Troops and that they be safe as well

I have not posted an update on my coupe for a while. Still pounding away on the body and mods. Here are a few pictures of straightening out the trunk opening shock mounts we fabbed and current profile shot...

Detroit Autorama is fast approaching so I fabbed up a little wagon for my donation to the charity auction. 2" dropped I-beam axle suicide steering blanket interior simple striping...

There is going to be an auction with much car related stuff in Bowling Green OH on Oct. 4th. attached is the flyers with more info...

Continuing on my Coupe repairs. I started on the replacement wheel well tubs...

1934 Ford Cabriolet
trunk mounted fuel tank
existing fuel pump is frame mounted unknown brand diaphragm  style drawing from a top of tank mounted tube.

Pump will not draw when the tank is down to 1/4 or so.

Looking for recommendations on a replacement pump...

Thanks

Tim

Anyone going to Columbus this weekend? First timer to the Goodguys Nationals....

I have been making a little progress on my Coupe project. Currently fixing mistakes from my unknowing youth and poorly patched rot covered up and discovered...

The panel below the deck lid was butchered with badly installed lights and rust. Having heard horror stories about the bad fit of replacement panels I decided to fabricate my own.

I needs a little trim at the top and tip the edge over the inner structure and then on to the wheel well panels and a roll pan to finish the rear...

Charlie, Jack, Ken and any other Westsiders,

I saw on the news that Muskegon  got hit with some pretty nasty storms. Are you guys and gals okay?

Just concerned about friends!

Tim

If any of the group is going to the Piston Power show at the IX center in Cleveland be sure to stop by the Krazy Paint booth in the south hall and say HI! I will be ther slinging paint on immovable objects all weekend!

moose

If any of the group plans to be at the Carl Casper Custom car show in Louisville this weekend please stop by the pinstripers area and say HI! Ask for moose...

Tim

It with sadness that I report the death of long time Hotrodder Terry Roberts from Toledo, Ohio.

I have no details at this time other than he was found this morning st home...

Tim

Getting ready to continue on the Coupe body work. I discovered that my can of tinning butter is dried out. I cannot find a supplier for the Duco brand I always used... Any recommendations for an available substitute??

Anyone here have experience using the new "leadless" body solders? I have several areas on my Coupe body I want to lead out for strength.

Can it be added over existing lead?

moose

Finally found some time to hammer on my A. When I was young and stupid,as apposed to older and stupid I removed the drip rails on my Coupe.
My logic was to remove hiccups to smooth out the body for racing. Since I have changed the focus to a more traditional Hiboy it needed to have them back.

I located a couple lengths of 32 ford rail and twisted them to fit the coupe.
I cleaned and straightened the original area and removed the wood to gain access for plug welding them from the back side.



They  now fit like they were made for it!







still need to finish welding the ends and blend  them out...

Tim

WELL, anter much delay I am back working on my Coupe body. The next step is replacing the drip rails.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a quality weld thru primer? My plan is to puug weld the rails on from the back side so I want to do all I can to aid in corrosion protection.

Thanks

Tim

If anyone on the Forum is going to the Carl Casper show in Louisville this weekend stop by the Pinstripers Panel Jam and say HI!

moose

WELL! After too long and many distractions I have finally been able to spend some time with the Coupe.

The chassis is roughed together only lacking detailing. smoothing welds plumbing brake lines etc. So it has been moved to the barn.

I have moved back to body work! The Body overall is solid BUT there are many areas that need to have corrections done due to my inexperience with metal work when I first took a saw to the body over 25 years ago.

There are also some areas that Mother Nature decided she wanted more than me so patching and metal finishing are the next phase I plan to tackle. I figure to start at the front and work my way down and back.
With that in mind i started to patch the windshield cowl filler piece

Here is how it now looks



some of the rot I removed



and how the patch is coming along.



It still needs a little welding and filing...

I am also filling the seams at the joint between the cowl sides and tank top...

A friend is rebuilding a 29 Sedan that has a Ford 289 He is in need of a factory Flex plate. Anyone have a spare they would like to sell?

Tim

Greetings Wise ones,
I have an issue with the transmission in my 36 Sedan. I am running the standard strreet rod set up. It is a Chevy 350 with a Turbo 350. I am running a stock convertor. The trans is shifted via a 72 Chevy tilt collumn.

The issue I have is with it NOT always down shifting to first at a stop. From astand still it up shifts fine. I can get a kick down shift with full throttle okay. It is when I come to a stop that it does not always drop back to first gear for take off. I can manually down shift and continue normally. What do I need to look at or possibly adjust?

Thanks for the help!

Tim

Gonna ask the Gurus a tech question.

I have a friend putting an S-10 chassis under a 1948 Willys Panel truck. He cannot get fluid to the back brakes. It seemsthe combo prop valve is not allowing fluid to the back circuit. How do we recenter it? I have tried to google for an answer but only seem to get replacement parts links.

I see in one link thet they sell a spool to hold the spool centered by removing the switch. But how do you recenter it if it is of?

Or do we just need to find a replacement?

Thanks

moose

Don,
Did you escape the storms okay?? I see much damage east and north of you....

moose

We had a good team assembled for the build day on Sunday Sept. 25. We had Charlie and Ken over from Muskegen, George from Battle Creek, moose nad Mrs. moose from Near Ypsilanti, All Michiganians. Tom and the Franks from Ohio. Mrs Frank set out a nice lunch spread for us!

We once again attacked the body. The hope was to get it stitched back into one piece. We started by removing the rear panel to repair more rust and modify the panel bottom. Once that was done we fit the panel back to the body and tacked it into place adjusting the fit as we went.

We ended the day with the body once again one piece! There is still much finish work to be done but every build day gets us that much closer. If you get a chance to attend one they are a good learning experience and lost of fun!!!

Following are photos I got mrs. moose to take for us.