Topics

http://www.sandyblogs.com/techconnect/2009/07/improving-internal-combustion-with-direct-injection.html


filling one's brain is a good thing...
knowing how it works is even better...

http://www.sucarb.co.uk/Technical.aspx

sorry.. this was too good to post to the throne room...

i know that only a few rodders will ever work on one of these...   but there is an absolute TON of information that is not available elseware on them scattered through the site...

what got me to this.. i was digging in my piles of carbs... and ran across one..    and AUD380...  one site with tons of numbers showed it might fit a kaiser frazer... i was wondering it that was related to a crosley...

when i googled it a different way i found the SU site..  and it fits a 69 austin america..

so enjoy the site...

i am going back and read more...

i saw this article one time and could not remember how to do it.

now i share the link...

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/bonneville_bow_tie_block_needle_bearings_install/index.html

additional... here are some q jet articles scattered around the different magazines...

knowledge is power..

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0607_quadrajet_tech/index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/edelbrocks_q_jet_carburetor_replacment/index.html

this one covers the electronic version.. but mostly the mechanicals...

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0908_qjet_carburetor_rebuild/index.html

anybody who even thinks of owning a q jet.. needs to read and book mark these articals


http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/induction_poweradders/sucp_0012_gm_rochester_quadrajet

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/projectbuild/148_0403_1974_chevy_camaro_z28_quadrajet

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49860_rochester_quadrajet_carburetor

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/0606ch_jet_performance_products

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0802phr_how_carburetors_work


the later model dual jet is the front half of a quadra jet...  so much of the same applys...  i even have a dual jet... that fits a 4 bbl manifold.. with the factory castings blocking the airflow...

i was looking for a old nason color chart...  for a mid blue the fairlane project is painted with...

this of a creamy blue color...

but i found this ... and figured that there are a lot of rodders who know that it is easier to paint some cars with current factory late model colors...  

paints are sometimes available pre mixed... as are touch up bottles...



http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/

just found this by random the other day...

figured it would be of help to a few people...
this has the individual sections of the drive shaft catalog
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depdf.aspx?group=J300-P


here is the direct link for the double cardan joints and CV

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J321-CV.pdf



just knowing what parts are available will be a huge help...

most drive shaft shops use these parts... so walking in with a description of what you want.. and a parts list for it..  may get you even closer to the perfect drive shaft...

wayne...

i ran across this almost 10 minute video... thought others might enjoy it also...


http://www.darkroastedblend.com/2009/05/building-chrysler-car-1939.html


or direct to your tube

here is another that i just found

http://www.oobject.com/category/aircraft-factories/

enjoy...

my ford ranchero has a problem.. the seat belts are too floppy...  when i go to drive it.. i have to dig for the seat belt..   my thoughts for a long time was to slide some shrink wrap over the webbing... probably from the bottom up with only a little heat to hold it in place...

i saw the roll of 2 inch wide shrink wrap over at hf  http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=shrink&Submit=Go

just wondered if anybody else had tried it....

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/47626/flat_or_tapered_cams_and_flat_or_crowned_lifters.aspx

there is also a hemi pdf article at the bottom...

http://englishrussia.com/?p=1949

the other day... the 84 vette came back... this time with a leaking transmission cooler line.. the bottom one at the radiator... a welded aluminum radiator..   someone other than me had cross threaded the hard to get to bottom line..   you know the one under the lower hose outlet.....  the almost impossible one to get in...

i rummaged through the fitting drawers at the local autozone..

i ran across one fitting that i thought would work... i had gone through the dorman catalog nothing listed... i carry one in the van...   in one of the drawers i found a dorman 499-014.1   its not even on their web site...  the autozone SKU is 483420...   it fits into the radiator where the 5/16 inverted flair fitting screwed in.. the 5/16 inverted flair tube screwed right in.. saving my customer and me  a huge problem...

it's made out of steel also... so it will last through many in's and out's .

i just thought that i would share this as i know that once in a great while... somebody will have a similar problem with an aluminum radiator... or will take preventive action and pick up a pair before installing the aluminum radiator...

hope this helps some one out...

i was out there surfing... and ran across this...  great pictures and graphics...

it is a huge download... and should be saved... as a reference also....

http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/catalogs/4085/pdf_20155.pdf

it is over 300 pages...  

enjoy.....

it seems to be a chevys of the 40's catalog... out of vancouver washington..


ok.. lets try this link

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/chevs-of-the-40s-4085/2009-1937-54-chevrolet-car-parts-20155.html

click on the download pdf link to the right of the missing manual cover ..

this one does work... just tried it...

it does take about 10 minutes to download the catalog... it has some fine detail images... but if old chevys are your thing..  it's worth the wait..

enjoy...

was junk yarding this morning...   ran across this jem.... in the junk yard...

a very late 50's or early 60's rambler... i had no idea they came with flat heads sixes...

sorry for the crumby photo...   call phone cam in bright sun.. i misadjusted the exposure... trying to get it right...

this seems to happen a bunch... i remember seeing a harmonic balancer page a few months ago... showed the offset of all the variations..

i have been searching for 2 hours and found this page  

http://www.chevytech.com/2c44o3.html

what i was looking for was the amount of offset the 84 and up 8" balancers have from the crank keyway..

the earlier ones are 10 degrees.. back to 1969

looking at the above link...   the 84 and up 8" balancers have a 30 degree offset...

i am working on this so i can just dial in some more advance on my timing light on the various cars i come across without having to degree in the mis matched balancer...

so if the 69 to 83 marks are 10 off and the 84 up are 30 off.. i should be able to just dial in 20 more degrees to my timing light and be able to set the timing...

what do you think? anybody else tried it...  i don't have any small block chevys handy right now...

ever wondered if the HEI unit you just picked up works...

got a pair of jumper cables??? or a jump start box??  a test lead with gator clips?

a piece of metal slightly larger than the top of the distributer that you can turn the distributer upsidedown on ..

invert the compete with  complete distributer on the metal,,    use the test lead to connect the vacuum advance bracket to the metal plate...   hook the ground jumper cable to the distributer housing,

use another short lead to hook from the HEI  BAT terminal to the positive jumper...  spin the shaft...  there should be sparks jumping from the tops of the spark plug wire terminals to the steel plate... and yes... if the distributer is working... it will throw sparks over an inch long...

the ground wire from the metal plate to the vacuum advance bracket returns the high voltage to the body of the distributer..

oh.. and a tip... for hard core racers... got a flat area on the distributer housing you can tap for a small bolt? something that won't fall out during a race...   with that.. run a 12  gauge wire to the back of each cylinder head...   this shortens the return route to the distributer housing..

the spark route goes from the coil, to the coil wire, through the cap , across the rotor, jumping the gap to the cap terminals,  down the wire and across the spark plug gap.    then through the head, the block , the intake and back to the distributer housing...

putting on this short cut removes the need for the spark to travel through the block and intake...   cost... cheep...  getting rid of misfires... priceless...

hope this helps a lot of people....

Heli coils are a great thing... There are hundreds of thousands holding each jumbo jet together...  

but what if they are just not right for the application...

like a stripped hole in the head for the exhaust or the intake mounting..

a stripped starter mounts.. in both the block and in the bell housings..


there are several options in solid thread inserts...    regular versions and self tapping...

the regular versions are great but sometime more expensive to install..
on a 3/8-16.. the outer thread pitch is like 9/16-12  how many of you have a regular 9-16 12 tap... and for doing blind holes... a 9/16-12 bottoming tap...   plus the oversized drill bit...

then there are the ones most engine rebuilders use... these are self tapping thread inserts...    you drill the hole to the proper size.. (don't loose the box or tag that came with them so you know what size drill to use)

take a long bolt of the proper thread size.. put a nut on it... thread on the insert till the threads are even with the end.. (not the slot)   tighten the nut against the insert... i usually hold the insert with a pair of channel locks or with am adjustable wrench by gripping it at the slot.

i then line up the thread insert and while keeping the alignment with the long bolt sticking out... put a wrench on the jam nut and turn the thread insert into the hole... it will cut threads as it goes in..   once in.. with the top of the insert flush or slightly below the surface.. loosen the nut and back the bolt out...  sometimes you have to hold the bolt head when you loosen the nut..

there is one more thing most people don't know about...

allen nuts...

the are great for some thread repair applications.. like stripped ford bell housing threads where the starter bolts to the aluminum bell housing... there is a lot of torque put on those threads when the starter is cranking...

i drill the hole from the back side..  but not all the way through... so the allen nut will be pulled into the hole and stopped from pulling all the way through by the undrilled section...


i have found over the years... the most popular sizes are 5/16-18, 3/8-16,  8mm-1.25, 10mm-1.5 ..

hope this helps.....  and there are still a huge number of places for heli coils...   just thought i would let everybody know about the options...

http://www.heritageclassics.com/cadillac/36blks60/C6.jpg


edit...

and then i saw this...

http://www.heritageclassics.com/cadillac/jacqueline/Page.html

http://www.carcraft.com/featuredvehicles/ccrp_0806_1962_pontiac_catalina/photo_14.html

i just saw them and had to share...

i think i have a pair of clamps for a brake drum lathe to turn the rear ones...


wayne lover of old ponchos...   and this is a nice one.. be sure to check out the other pictures..

i ran across this on a just bored search.. its one of the magazines the shop used to get that i would read in the throne room... but it was always good reading..

so i post this to the members who visit the throne room...

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us010908.htm

ps... knowing how the system works, makes it easier to fix....

and since this is used on so many cars and trucks that we drive in our everyday life.... not so much on our hot rods YET...

wayne...    finder of the odd but useful info

http://www.airspacemag.com/history-of-flight/The-Bonneville-Jet-Wars.html

after years of working on cars.. i cannot count how many torque flights i had to swap out do to the sprag tearing out of the case...

in the past...  i just bought another case... and put it together and hoped it would not happen again..

this might be usefull info for the few rodders running torque flights.. as a preemptive repair...

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mopp_0901_transmission_drivetrain_breakage/photo_06.html

i also don't think the sprag functionality is described fully...  my knowledge is that it overruns in forward.. cooled by the cooler return... and only works in reverse..  and is usually ripped from its mount when the gears are changed from forward to reverse with the car still rolling forward...

i was on the next torque flight somebody ask me to build for a high power motor..  going to examine the back of the case. and see if i could get the back of the case welded up on the inside to fill the area around the sprag mount area...  so it is much tougher..


this also looks like i might be able to save some of the cases after they tear out if not too much damage has been done..

i have been thinking about putting the electric fuel pump on for a while..  but . i really don't like putting a switch on it.. or having it powered only by the key..  i was thinking of going to a buick 3 prong oil pressure switch..  as the outer contacts are connected.. the top one grounds when the oil pressure drops...

but i like to make life confusing..   i had a flash of brilliance.. why not use a volkswagen rabbit fuel pump relay... it turns on with the key..  triggered by the hot side of the coil for 2 seconds..   then it takes the minus side of the coils signal to keep it closed...  

my thoughts about using it for the fuel pump are one thing... but... why not use the 10 amp max to switch on other circuits.. and control other relays..   like cooling fans..  daytime running lights... ect...

i am almost sure that the 31b connector goes to the negative side of the coil...  (tach signal)


the newer cabriolets relays have larger terminals.. on 30 and 87..

so has anybody else done this?

i put this on the tail of another thread.. then figured.. it would be good as its own...

so i bounced it over here..


rubber motor mounts that look like hockey pucks... that could be used as body / frame mounts...

anchor brand part numbers...

#2009 ford 32-51 upper and jeep 50 -62
#2010 ford 32-51 lower and jeep 50-62

#2014 plymouth 39-55 transmission upper

#2048 ford truck 56 to 64 merc 49-51 eng lower
#2050 engine upper

#2120 ford 55-57 ford truck 53-56 engine center

#2122 chevy 55-57 chevy truck 55-62 small biscuit
#2123 large biscuit

#2298 ford truck 64-78 engine lower

#2306 ford truck trans 65-78

#2348 ford truck trans 65-78 looks like the other half of 2306

#2667 dodge truck 72-96 trans upper
#2668 trans lower

#2679 lincoln trans 82-92

there were no sizes listed for these part numbers.. only fuzzy images...

this list should help with the amount of boxes that need to be opened ..

i even used the #2122 and #2123 motor mounts on my skateboard trucks to replace the tiny neoprene biscuits they came with.. i rode it almost 10 miles a day.. passing commuter busses.. to school and back..

this weeks project is an 84 vette crossfire..  the ex bosses brother..  i found that it had almost no fuel pressure...  the cone spray on the throttle body injectors was almost a straight line..   i pulled the filter... out of the back of the filter came rusty crusty junk...

i keep various trays to catch liquids in.. i used my largest food tray from smart and final... 22 bucks... but worth it..   under the filter so i could catch all the gas that is going to flow out...   not just for eco reasons.. but i wanted to examine it...

crud.. chunks of rust... CHUNKS.............. this is after the fuel pump.. that was replaced about 50 miles or 2 years ago... as that was the last time the vette ran...  someone had left the gas cap loose and rain water had filled the tank...   causing the sending unit and hanger to rust... seems that vette tanks are lined with rubber...

i pulled the gas cap lid.. and the rubber boot then the filler neck and hanger with the pump on it...   there was no end on the hanger or strainer on the pump..  so the pump was trashed also...


i dug out the neodynium magnets that i get from all electronics out in the valley...  dropped one in the parts tray with the rusty gas out of the filter and line..    magnet 1...  it pulled all the debris right too it...

then i carefully pushed the magnet with my finger through the gas... magnet 2...    notice something...  it cleans house...


i took some of the neodynium ring magnets and put them on some stainless steel mig wire that i had... and used them to fish out rust particles from the tank bottom...   my arms are too thick to fit through the opening..  i placed a new one on each side of the  pickup baffle.. fixed the pump to the tube with some fuel fill hose i had...

the pictures are really what this is all about..  i used much larger magnets in the tank...  these tiny ones i use to blow into gas tanks through a 3/8" hose...


i have in the past...in cars that ate the rear end bearings.. broken off chunks of heater fan magnet... wedged them into the housing.. and had the customer return for an oil change after a week or so..  the oil looked as clean as if i had just pumped it in.. but the magnet was covered with tiny metal filings..

i have always wondered ... when rear end housing tubes are welded on... for brackets and spring seats.. does anybody pull the ring and pinion and run a ball hone in the axle tubes to clean out the welding scale that forms inside the tube....??

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/396367


some beautiful aluminum work....

http://www.piratejack.net/Download-document/91-Pirate-Jack-Catalog-2009.html

this is great...

46 proportioning valves...

http://www.piratejack.net/Proportioning-Valves.html

hopefully everybody will enjoy these...

this will be a huge help to real wiring guys... and probably anybody putting in gm fuel injection..

here is is... i have been looking for it for a long time

http://delphi.com/pdf/contact/brochures/DCS_GlobalCatalog.pdf

it is 404 pages..

just got finished with the van carb..  snapped some photos...  the motorcraft 4350 has adjustability just like the quadrajet carbs.... most people throw them away...  put on a Holley square bore after changing the manifold or getting the adaptor....


i always read the instructions after i finish .. just to see how i do... and this carb had been apart before..  zinc carb colored paint tells me so... it has not worked well...  choke pull off not working... accelerator pump not working well...  tromp on it hard and it will lean back fire out the top of the carb...

on these carbs... try to read the instructions up front... there are a few measurements you want to know about first...

the metering rod assembly is adjustable under this aluminum plug... so it is important when you get it out... to measure it ...

something for the flat head crowd...

http://crazymotion.net/flathead-ford-v8-disassembly/wgB8w3AYE_TcjAy.html

i just ran across this... there are a bunch more on flat heads... 6 and v8 and some ford Y block stuff...

i have not figured out how to stop the site from going off in its own direction with every video farther from the original...

i was out junk yarding yesterday..   looking for jeep grand cherokee stuff... ran across a bunch of jeep cherokees... leaf spring rear axles ones.. some of them had floor shifts... they had a nice gm column.. no extras on it... . did not look too long..   some were tilt...  they also had a double U joint shaft between the end and the steering box... the ones i was looking at were 90 to 92 models...  so there are a bunch of them still showing up in the yards...

just thought that everybody might like a heads up...  in an not so obvious place...

i was just surfing and ran across this....

it is the replacement pop rivet that will hold on the trim clip on muscle cars and others...

i seem to recall that some are available to use with dent puller stud welders but i have not seen them listed...

better keep the tweezers handy...



images of the ... build???  glue up?

http://joeharmon.blogspot.com/2008/08/iwf.html

i just ran across this the other day and the afb problems that nobody seems to be able to jet away may be solved by the image below....

found it in this article... but it really does not talk alot about it ... only what was in the picture....

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/15762/carburetor_tuning_the_airfuel_equation.aspx


i know that this will help somebody....

wayne....

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/chassis/suspension_steering/0602sc_guide/index.html

i am only part way though it and i hope the rest is as good as the first page...

oops... a lot of stuff for sale... with tech on a few pages...

admins.. delete if you think this is too much of an ad..
wayne

why not meld the front of a 4150 with the secondarys of a 4500...

this would require a custom main body, base plate, throttle linkage as the 4500 is internal...   but conventional float bowls and metering blocks could be used...  along with throttle blades and booster venturis..

think of this ... a 390 cfm sized primary...  and an 1100 cfm sized secondary..  gm did it with the quadrajet...  but this would have holley style tunability.. maybe use a 600 cfm size primary.  for larger motor versions..

this would make the ultimate street carb...


i am still trying to get time to design the metering block that has spring loaded idle circuit shut off pistons for circle track racers...  this would increase fuel economy and might make the race for some teams...



my other thought is about the fuel level angles during cornering...

since the fuel is drawn up by vacuum... and a little change in level affects mixture...

are the cornering forces counteracted by the banking so the fuel maintains its level to allow equal  fuel mixtures one the right verses the left venturis.

i have even though about having a carb float bowl cast in clear plastic... putting a float in it... some colored water...  mounting it on the dashboard with a video camera taping it as the car circles the track in practice...   this would give a true representaion of what is happening.... then the fuel angles can be reproduced on a dyno by installing the carb on an angled spacer... or by building a tilting dyno floor...

one of my thoughts is to move the jets and main wells closer together in the metering block...   this would reduce the level angle lean outs on the left side of the carbs... this would also make more room for the high vacuum idle circuit stop pistons...

i wonder if the race teams that win a lot already do this... hmm.....


tilting the dyno would also let racers tune the motor for different tracks...   with automation... one could even tilt the motor to different angles during the high speed dyno runs...


maybe as on the cheep for testing... use a some tubes like jet extensions used in the secondarys for drag racing, but with a 90 degree bend so both jets draw fuel from the right side of the float bowl...

there was an article in a hot rod about a 215 buick powered chain saw that used a predator carb as that one was not affected by the angles the saw goes through...     so there might be some real fixes in my thoughts..   let me know what you think....

i just had a spark of an idea...   in car stereos to get the best power out of the amp... you install a pair of caps in the power leads as close to the amp as possible... since batterys are electro chemical .. it takes a few milliseconds to respond to the draw of the device..  in a car amp... the amp trys to draw the power to move the speakers... but since it is instantanious and batterys are not... there is a little lag time...  the cap fills with electrons that are available now.. instantly... not when the chemicals react in the battery...

so on a conventional HEI , duraspark, TFI..  i would think that a cap in the power line would saturate the primary side of the coil better at higher speeds......

i know that there is cap discharge ignitions..   i am thinking about helping the  rest of us with a few bucks worth of caps.....


i posted my question on grounding the dist housing to the heads to complete the high voltage circut for the spark... and there were several replys.. one that said they had build a motor with a lot of sealer on the head studs.. and one bank of spark plugs would not fire .. once he hooked up grounds from both heads to the dist housing  no more misfires..

again.. just a thought...

wayne...

a bit of theory and hands on this time....

ford duraspark dizzys have been used starting about 1975 through 84-85 or so... with remote mounted modules...

there are 3 wires coming out....    

black ....    this is ground for the ign module..  and is connected to the breaker plate hold down screw that also holds down the grommet..

without this wire and the body of the dizzy properly grounded the ign module will not have any ground...   no ground ... no spark....

you can test these units with the dist removed... if you use a ground from the block to the housing...   spin the shaft... watch the coil arc....


the orange and purple wires are connected to the pick up coil windings...

use a digital ohm/volt meter on them.... set it to 2,000 ohms scale... usually shown as    2Kohm...   it should read 600 to 800 ohms...

while the meter is still connected... flip the knob over to 20 volt a/c scale...   spin the dizzy shaft..   with your hand you should be able to generate over 1 volt A/C  ,    if it does not generate this much signal voltage it will not turn on the power transistor in the module and charge the primary in the coil...      no charge/saturation    no discharge... no spark...

i had one in my hand today as i was installing a duraspark on the fairlane project...      it read 640 ohms...  but could only create 0.62 volts A/C...

this was a reman dizzy from the parts store....    i wanted to install a new reluctor but nobody has them local..  it was brand new anyway(reman)... so off to the store that had that one in stock...  took my meter... hooked it up the replacement... got almost 5 volts a/c out of it.... fired right up....    magic...

oh... and the reluctor....   it is a chunk of sintered material...

it retains a small amount of magnetic field for a short time...

if the reluctor has been washed.... dipped...  sandblasted... dropped... cracked...   it may not retain enough magnetic field to create proper signal voltage in the pickup coil....     no start...    everything checks out perfect..  still no start...     ford and dodge are victims of bad reluctors causing no starts... or extreamly hard to start cars....

gm on the small cap dizzys has a slightly differnt problem... the reluctor is stamped steel and riveted to the dizzy shaft...  there is a ceramic ring magnet in this riveted sandwich...   when the magnet cracks do to heat cycleing..   hammering... dropping of the unit...   it will create extra pulses out of phase that the ignition module does not know what to do with...  makes for a hard to find misfire....

these are pics i just found of my just departed friends 59 berkley..

he had rebuilt the transmission with parts from england...  and had loaned out one of the carbs to another berkley owner... and that guy returned the wrong size carb...   so out came the motor and in went a vw 1200.... with the transaxle also... he modded the swing axles to drive the front wheels... i never knew how...  he never finished the car...  he could not get the right front wheel to steer...  he had several straps he welded together... but it was a rear steer ... under power it was fine... under breaking... the right wheel went its own way...

the shifter end of the tranny stuck through the firewall and he had a shifter on it .....  he did flip the diff so the car went forward also... ( that was really forward thinking of vw to design it that way... ) he had a fan set up running cool air to the motor... but it's shaft was off angle and would throw the belt...

it ended up at his trailer up in phelen... where the county of sb towed it away...  old car clean up squad...  

jon went to high school with tommy ivo... and spent his last 5 months with me and my wife...


i just thought i would post these before they get sent to family members...

this carb has been sitting around for years.... everybody who sees it wants it...  i thought i would share pictures.. i used to run it on my 66 GTO...(long gone)

i saw this article when i was surfing one day....

http://www.lightracing.com/LightRacingTech/FlareHoleArticle_4x4Garage.pdf

and then i saw this from harbor freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96718

my thoughts are how nice this hydraulic punch would press the die set to flair holes in items...


wayne....

http://www.gofastnews.com/board/technical-articles/433-sb-chevy-zero-cost-oil-pump-power-mods.html

saw this... and thought wow... i have been porting the main caps and passages for decades... never thought about the inside of the pump... this makes total sence...

i wonder if the inlet side of the gears could also use a passage to break the vacuum created by the gears diverging....

i know of an oil pump rebuilder... they have an oil pump dyno.... hmm.....

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/car/546096567.html    

This 1923 t bucket is in perfect condition has a ford 302 was built in the late 60's and very rarely drivin loud cool HOT ROD clean from bottom to the top for more info call Danny (909)319-9023 or info info@carpettec.com

   just saw a mothers ad with the foose roadster.. he has chromed wire grill inserts that have a over and under wire looks like 10 gauge...

got me thinking... perforated sheet... there are many differnt sizes of holes available...     has any creative person ever folded like a pleated air filter perforated steel sheet to make a grill insert...  just a thought...  

i sold the cherry 71 ranchero grill that i had scored in the junk yard a few years ago to my former boss for the 71 ranchero that i had also sold him to finish it up...  and my ranchero has just been sitting there toothless like an old shark for years...  some strainger did help out last week... one of the tires went flat.. and i had a pair of 15 inch ford rims and tires left over from the taxi guy... except the morning i was going to swap them on... somebody levitated them ... and all the scrap out of the back of the truck.. it had only been sitting there for a year... they actually did me a favor.. as i was going to give it away anyway...


oh well....    just thought i would post a creative thought....

just was out drivng around and saw a silver 69 camaro with yenco/sc stripes... no time for a cell phone camera pic.. i did run the windows down so i could hear it..

rumble rumble   whirrrrrrrr as is pulled away...

uuuoooohhhhh!!!!   a gear drive or a blower......

then i got to thinking. straight cut gears...

hmmm... just like remote control cars had a long time a go... you could hear them whirrr.. as they accelerated...

then i put two and two together  kids grew up hearing that noise from their toy cars .. so real cars must need to make the same noise...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/CategorySpecial.taf?f=pricetype&ptype=C

they seem to have rolls of 308 and 316 wire for a discount and er70.. well youll see...

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/501044824.html

not cheep.. but super straight ?

just thought someone could use a set....

http://www.guzer.com/videos/ford_sd_2008_recall.php

something i saw a long time ago.. a engine cooling fan that was powered by the powersteering pump.. it seemed to have a thermostatic control in it somehow..

it was on a japaneese car of some kind...



just something differnt ...

all this thinking about steering columns. made me think about the chevette column...


it has a differnt feature that might be usefull for street rods...

the lower shaft has the ability to slide into itself totally... like 12 to  18 inches.. i have not measured one .. enough to get the starter past... as that is the only easy way to get a starter off a chevette...

since it is a gm column the inner shaft should be able to be swapped into other housings..  and yes chevettes have tilt columns...  so whole units could be swapped in...

http://www.apexelectronic.com/counter.mov

click off center on the photo and it will start to spin...

this is a surplus store i go to.. and it would be great for car show fotogs to be able to do this at shows.. for everybody to view later...

i even have a really crazy idea...   the flying wire cam .. like is used at football games... use that at the rose parade... so the complete action of the floats or an entire song each marching band plays is recorded for web playback later... instead of the talking heads bantering and babbling about nothing......