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A long time friend to me and many others here, Bob Klessig has entered Hospice care. I do not know the reason, but knowing that he is nearing the end makes me sad. Hopefully he goes in peace. He will be missed.

So very sad.  I met Bob in 2011 in Austin TX during the LONESTAR.  Sitting on the wall watching the cars go by.

Saw him last in Detroit in March for the AUTORAMA this year.  He looked good and said he also felt good.

A real loss to our community of gear heads.

that was a nice truck

Thanks.  Yes it was. Great daily driver for many years.

I sold the 48 F-1 pickup after 18 years of driving.  
Stepped up to a new (to Me) 2007 GMC Sierra , reg cab, short bed.  Even got away from Tan it's red.  \
Also sold the 26 Ford lakes madified style roadster project.  Thinning the herd.  Getting on in year so maintaining one rod if enough.  Obviously kept the 48 Chevrolet Convertible as I've had it since 1975.

I do what Wayne suggests with the split ring. I usually make it from 1/8" aluminum, drilling ans tapping the holes for 10 x 32 screws. I install the screws into the ring from the bottom, and tighten the heads against the ring. A bit of Locktite doesn't hurt.  I then install the ring on the inside of the tank, and hold it in place with a couple 1/8" countersunk Pop rivets. Then you can install the sender with just one hand rather than needing three to juggle all the parts.

I appreciate the replies.  I'm in a quandry.  I called the PERMATEX tech line last week before I put the request on the RRT.  They just called a few minutes ago and said that making a gasket of VITON rubber sheet and using the HIGH TACK GASKET SEALER with it would be better than using their PERMAFLUID FUEL RESISTANT GASKET DRESSING & FLANGE SEALANT which as Wayne pointed out is the same as "Hylomar Universal Blue Gasket Sealer".  He said both would work but the HIGH TACK GASKET SEALER would be better as there were no voids to fill which would be the best use for the PERMAFLUID FUEL RESISTANT GASKET DRESSING & FLANGE SEALANT.

I guess you can see my quandry.

Any thoughts on the PERMATEX Tech's suggestion?

I have a plastic "TANKs" brand fuel tank in my 48 Chevrolet convertible.  For some reason no matter what I've tried a leak developes around the sending unit.  I wonder and have had a few folks tell me it is the different rates of expansion between the plastic tank and metal sending unit flange.

Any suggestions on how to stop this other than keeping less than 1/2 a tank of gas in the tank?

I know this is not a hot rod but I have found excellent advice here.
My wifes 2007 Mercury Milan with 105,000 miles has developed an annoying, to her, squeek first thing in the morning when the car sat overnight after the brake is released and she applies the brakes while backing out of the driveway. It only occurs first thing in the am.
I have tried PB Blaster which stopped it for a couple of days but it is back again.  The cable is mostly shielded so I can't really get a lot of lube on it.  This am she said the noise was there and she had not set the emergency brake ove night.
Any suggestions.  Thanks.
Bill

Some of you may recall a fire I had in my F-1 in Auguist 2014.  It was contained in  the engine compartment and destroyed all wiring, hoses, the battery, carburetor, and distributer above the valve covers.  It also burnt the paint on the hood.  I repaired it in August 2014 and having been driving since.  That fire started after I had driven the truck, parked it and went in my house for lunch. While I was away from the truck it burned and put itself out. Temperature that day was in the high 90's.

On Monday, temperature low 50's. the truck stalled while I was driving at about 30 mph.  I popped in neutral to try to restart but to no avail.  I coasted to the side of the road and opened the hood to look for an obvious problem with wiring or fuel.  There were flames around the carb on the intake manifold.  I put them out with the extinguisher.  

There was no damage to the wiring or hoses.  Extinguisher powder covered everything and I did see a dark spot when checked smelled like gas. This was behind the carb.  A couple of friends and my mechanic, who had the truck for 2 days, suggested that it might have been a stuck float which allowed gas to spill onto the hot intake manifold and ignite.

The F-1 has a 425 cid Caddy engine with a quadrajet. electric choke and stock HEI distributor.

Any ideas.

enjenjo THANKS!!!

I shortened the cable by 1/8 to 3/16's and it works great now.

I appreciate the help.

enjenjo,

Thanks.

I did that and it cut the flucuation down to what looks like more of a vibration of 1/32's inch or less.  I'll get it up in the air next week and cut it down an 1/8".  Do I cut it at the end into the gauge?  

I have recently replaced the speedometer cable for the SW speedo and the gauge needle flucuates or jumps drastically.  I also hear a noise from the speedo gauge like a weight hitting when the needle swings back to a lower speed. When I installed the new cable I lubed the cable well with "Super Lube Synthetic Grease".  

In atempting to solve the problem of needle jumping.  I took the cable out again and carefully wiped it clean and relubed it adding graphite to the grease and I have the same problem.

Does it need to be driven for a while for this to go away or is it a problem with the speedometer itself?

Did you figure out what caused it?

No.  All sorts of theories but no way of knowing.  Must have started in the carb as the burnt wires were all under the hood and no damage to wiring under the dash or low on the inner fender panels.  Intense heat damaged, burned, the wires that were on a level above the top of the carburetor.

It's a mystery.  Wayne's ideas as good as any one else's.

Try Master Series silver.
http://www.masterseriesct.com/

Wayne,
Thanks for the info and tips.  
Almost done with the repairs.  Slowed down with a 3 week vacation with the wife and the 90 degree heat and no shade in my driveway.  The modified roadster project is in the too small garage along with other stuff that homeowners have to keep somewhere.
Thanks again.

I thing O'Brien Truckers bought out some of their stuff.

I had a fire in my daily driven 1948 F-1.  It is a 48 Ford F-1 with a 425 cid Cadillac engine, Centech wiring and Vintage Air a/c.  It was in the 90's temperature wise that day.  The temp gauge showed a little over 190.  We have 10% ethanhol in our gas here in Connecticut.

I don't know the cause.  The fire seemed contained in the carburetor and air cleaner (early caddy style) as the manifold and valve covers weren't even scorched.  It  burned wiring, melted/warped carburetor & air filter , melted battery, melted HEI coil and cap, melted the battery cables, burned through an a/c hose. burned through upper radiator hose, damaged fan and alternator belts and burned the paint off the hood.  Probably some other stuff I don't know yet.  This happened after I returned from some errands and I parked it in the drive way.  I returned an hour later and found the damage  It started and went out by itself.  It could have been a lot worse.

Any ideas on the cause.

The price of driving old stuff daily.  Sh-- Happens--!!!!!