Messages

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-73051 same wires, different branding

My choice  https://pertronixbrands.com/pages/taylor-cable-universal-spark-plug-wires  Many sources

I had some help today so we did a major shop cleanup. Moved many heavy things from one building to the other and got my Stude parts all in the same place. It was a good day.

I have been using a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper for several years now and really like it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-64044.html

Well we tore down nthe transmission again, replaced the shift rail and it works good now. It took an hour and a half this time, tear down and reassembly.

I am making fixtures for my lathe to modify T5 parts for a bolt up fit to a Studebaker V8 bellhousing using the stock Stude clutch and linkage. The pilot bearing and Front bearing retainer have to be modified slightly. I want the fixtures for repeatability.

Today Josh and I assembled the T% for his 1987 Mustang 5.0. Between the wrong pats sent, the bolt holes in the case being stripped, and trouble getting the shafts shimmed right it took all day. And to top it off the fifth-reverse shift rail was damaged, so we tore down a parts transmission for the rail. So when I was picking up tools I found the good shift rail on the bench, which means we assembled it with the damaged shaft, and trouble getting it into reverse was the reason for tearing it down to begin with. so now it has to come apart again.

Good job speedy Andale! Yee! Hah!

I finally got my Lincoln LS rear end back today. It's in very nice condition. I have to check the ratio, it is supposed to be a 3.55 gear.

I've used one of those in the past Tony and had no problems.

Yesterday, I purchased machine tool supplies. One of the items was band saw blades. I have a small unit that decades ago I used to buy Doall blades for. They worked quite well cutting 4130 tubing. Years ago, I called and gave them the part number I wanted. We don't make that any more. Since that day, I have been through an assortment of brands and mediocre is my description of them. That includes a replacement from the Doall line. I ordered some Starrett.

The last several years I have been buying my band saw blades from   https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/  Lenox blades. They hold up well and the prices are not too bad.

Last thursday I was returning home from a 20 mile trip in my 2004 3.0 Ford Escape, and about 4 miles from home I had a loss of power and a noise like a broken air line on a truck compressor. Then a check engine light. I nursed it home and had it towed to my buddy's shop. My thought was a spark plug blew out but I had never heard of that happening on a 3.0 engine.

Well that is what it was. It blew out the center plug on the  number two cylinder. So he reamed it, and installed an insert, six new plugs, three coils, and new intake plenum gaskets. $295 in parts and two hours labor. That is $1,000 cheaper than the bill for my HHR three weeks ago.

Today I took it on a 60 mile trip with no problems.

Several things could be in play here. First the Opti-spark, If it was good GM would have used it much longer. The 94 and 95 models suffered with early failure of the Opti-spark. Water vapor would seep into the distributor from the crankcase and corrode up the insides in no time. In 96 they modified it with a vacuum line into the plenum that would pull the water vapor out to slow corrosion. The last time I looked Summit had the 96 type distributor at a reasonable price. The plug wire terminals are made of Unobtainium and hard to find separate, so buy the premade wire kits.

Next we get to the ignition switch. Most ignition switches will not supply spark through the computer while cranking, or while running as they only have one output to the computer. So you may have to use a relay on the ignition wire from the ignition switch so you can supply power in both modes, cranking and running. With some starters you can provide the 12 volts from the starter solenoid while cranking.

Now we get to fuel. There should be a timed output to the relay that runs the fuel pump for 5 to 10 seconds when the ignition switch is turned on, but before cranking starts. Once cranking starts the fuel pump relay drops out until the engine starts. No fuel pressure, no start.

And it's good that you are getting a reader because there are several sensors that can cause a no start including TPS, Crank sensor, Cam sensor and others but those are the big three.

What are you using for a wire harness

You have some talent Matt.

Fatcat is in town so we have been working on his car trailer so he can haul his Chevy down south.

Sinclair Dyno Juice

You can change the 302 Ford firing order by installing a 351 cam and vise versa.