The Rodding Roundtable
Motorhead Message Central => Rodder's Roundtable => Topic started by: kb426 on June 29, 2013, 08:19:42 PM
I've been in between projects. I have a go kart restoration that I've been gathering parts for. I did a house renovation for my son and it's summer and hot rod time. Just by accident on thursday, the project god smiled on me, depending on how you look at it. :lol: The 51 Ford will be my son's project after we get the drivetrain finished. The 47 Dodge will donate it's cab to my next project. They are both rust free in the cab. The Ford has some rust in the rear fender bottoms. I don't know where I'm going with these but I'm amazed that I found rust free material to start with. I mean no panel replacement, not surface rust.
NICE finds
later jim
I decoded the vin and found out it's a 1947. Does anybody know where some rear fenders off of a 1/2 ton might be?
I spent most of the last 2 days working on the front fenders and header panel. The 51 was used as a coyote wagon. 1 fender wasn't bad but the right fender has been abused pretty good. Not much rust, lots of damage. There was a 1/8" floor welded in the box. I removed it this morning. I now have stuff scattered in too many places. It was a good weekend working on auto projects for a change. When I have something to look at, I'll post pics.
I made a little progress today.
The cheap H.F. trailer is doing what i wanted. It sits outside all the time. I thought it was powder coated. Judging from the fading, it's old enamel paint.
I like that Dodge. Curious about what your plans are for it.
You certainly keep busy.
I don't have any plans for the dodge yet. I'm thinking it might need a new owner to help finance the 51. I fire it up and move it around to mow where it was. It runs fine. The clutch is grabby but it does everything it's supposed to. It's too good to let it rot away.
I received the hood I bought for the 51 yesterday. I removed the trim and stuck it in the vat for a while. There is rust holes on the top of it. It had laid upside down with dirt in the center of it long enough to do damage. It's rough but all I have so it will have to work unless I find a better one some where.
I think you need to let me haul that Dodge off so it's not in your way to mow! LOL
Leon, that's a great idea.! Let's discuss the removal fee. :lol:
I'm easy, you won't have to pay me much to haul it off. :lol:
Several weeks ago I bought a HF 20lb pressure blaster. Everything I read said it would need modifications to be useful. I tried it with fine black diamond media and wasn't happy. I found the Texas blaster on the web and looked over there valve setup. $30 in pipe fittings later, mine is working pretty good. I went through 4 bags of media and got half of the blasting done. I can see that the nozzles won't last long so I'm about to see how many sources there are for parts.
The box on the 51 is ready to be removed. I just don't have any place for it yet. I've been trying to get everything that needs to be done outside finished before the weather changes.
Quote from: "kb426"I can see that the nozzles won't last long so I'm about to see how many sources there are for parts.
I make nozzles from bolts. They don't last long, but neither do the HF replacements. Use the unthreaded portion of a bolt. I do a down and dirty cut in the lathe. It doesn't have to be pretty, it will be in the trash soon enough. Cut the OD of the bolt similar to the ceramic nozzles to retain it in the tip and drill a hole through it. A small hole quickly becomes a big one. After a while you will need to change the rubber gasket between the nozzle and the tip too. Again this doesn't have to be perfect. The sand is going to eat it up.
Beck, how many bags will go through one before it's done?
Quote from: "kb426"Beck, how many bags will go through one before it's done?
That depends on the media and the pressure. I used silica sand last time (with full filtration on the mask). I did some recycling so a bag count is difficult. After one 80# bag if I recall it was worn out.
The outside of the cab is blasted. There was a few surprises. :lol: I'm going to do some repair work before I prime it. It's inside the garage for a little while.
I spent half of yesterday filling holes. The brazed patch on the back got removed and patched as the fuel filler hole. This morning I have beat on dents and cut out the rusty area under the cab. I have 3 areas on the outside of the cab to repair and I'm going to replace the floor where it was doubled around the front cab mounts. That was for carriage bolts. You can guess what was left. I'm not good enough to do this without plastic so don't be to disappointed. :lol:
I blasted around the areas that were cut out some. The donor car that i purchased for this arrived. Time for measuring and thinking.
More rust repair. I'm close to the end on the cab.
Mr. Bondo has made some progress. I'm knee deep in parts. I purchased a No-Limit front end and rear kit. The rectangle tubing I ordered to build the frame arrived today so I have most of my spare time for a while filled up. There's lots of decisions to be made and lots of work. I'm always excited at this stage of a build. I'll try not to be boring with progress posts. :D
I blasted the underneath side of the top to facilitate the installation of sound deadner. I'm still doing body work but I'm getting close to primering the cab. Hopefully tomorrow.
I reached a stopping point today. The body work on the cab is roughed in and in black epoxy primer. This has to go outside while the chassis is built. If I had storage area, this wouldn't be how this was happening. The windshield and back glass have been edged so I can put the glass in. For those of you that recognize the color, you know where this is headed. This project has become the Bullitt truck. I'll use gray spoke wheels and use the color on the 2001 and 2008 Bullitt's. Once that decision was made, life got easier! :D
This evening I began the destruction of the donor car.
This is what it took to remove the harness. The other pic is 2/3's of the wiring.
I think in my 65 ford 1/2 ton the entire wiring harness could probably be rolled up and put in the glove box! Wow thats a lot of wire.
Today I removed the fuel tank, drive shaft, rear sway bar, radiator, bellhousing bolts and 1 starter bolt. The header pipes aren't going anywhere. I'm going to have to cut the studs to get them off. I can't get the starter off until the right pipe is removed. Once the starter is off, the trans is ready to have the crossmember removed and it's out. The engine is about ready also. A black widow spider dropped off a motor mount to make it a little interesting for a moment. I thought my son's 83 was a pain to work on. It was easy compared to this. The mechanics that worked on these everyday have my respect. I'd rather change plugs in a 68 cobrajet mustang than work on this. :lol:
Lots of wires there... My 62 falcon has OE fuses on the back of the light switch. 2 fuses.
Are you going FULL power trains swap ? All electronic engine and trans or what?
:shock:
Tony, my plan at this time is to use the factory ecu for the 4.6 and wiring. I'm replacing the auto with a 3650. I think I'll spend some time after the chassis is built, to simplify the wiring harness. I won't need keyless entry, abs, 460 sound system, ect. I'm expecting to get educated with this. I think the eec-iv will look like child's play when I'm finished. :D
Everyone has seen a trans on the floor. What's so special about that? The trans won't come out unless the header pipes are removed. They have cats in them. The header pipes weren't coming off. I found out that Ford installs the engine-trans together with a cradle from the bottom. You have to raise the body about 4 feet to do that. I ended up cutting the header pipe studs to get the pipes off. By removing the left one, I was able to get the trans out. The right one is easier to get at after the trans is out. I really expected the studs to break. That didn't happen either. The engine is about to come out and life is going to get better. :lol:
This pic represents that I won the fight for removal. :lol: This was a real pain. I need to remove the rear end but all the fasteners are ready to come out. I have to block the body up in the yard to do this. The rear is the last part that I need for the chassis. The rest is there waiting for measurements and engineering before welding. It got up to 78 degrees here today. It was a great day for the fall.
The last large part of dissassembly. The lower arm bolts were froze. Sure glad I'm not protecting the car. :D
The Fox Body guys are all over the spindles, and the wheels for 5 lug retrofits
Thanks, Frank. I may remove the front cradle and save it. The hydroboost and the top would be the only thing left on the body besides glass. I'm researching whether the hydro would be good to retain or a liability.
The Pro Touring guys are wild about hydroboost. When the time comes I'll be looking for one for my car.
This evening the front cradle came out and the hydroboost. It was about to get cool when I finished.
The trans arrived today. I bought a 3650 out of a 2001 Bullitt with a flywheel and clutch. I'm gaining! :lol:
A little more progress.
Front cross member and read end fresh from the vat. The rear needs all the brackets removed and I'm changing ratios.
The parts for the rear end arrived this week along with bolts for the flywheel and the rear trans mount. I cleaned grease from the back of the engine and installed the flywheel and clutch. The trans in on and ready for fitting. I found out that it has a 31 spline output and my collection only includes 28 spline. Just another minor expense. :) Some of the mounts for the body and radiator require sleeving so I used the lathe to cut 4130 tubing to length for the inserts. Some of the 2 X 6 is cut up and ready to be modified for the 2 x 4 step downs at both ends of the chassis.
Quote from: "kb426"Front cross member and read end fresh from the vat. The rear needs all the brackets removed and I'm changing ratios.
The pull a parts in this area get $100. for Explorer 8.8 leaf spring rears. I found the axle codes on the 'net, they're on a sticker on the drivers door. I've seen ratios from 3:23 to 4:11 w/ limited slip in the yards. I'm holding out for a 3:55 for my '57.
papastoyss, I checked the yards around here. Only one had a 3.73 posi and it was $400. There's not much population where I am so we're limited with yard inventory.
I worked most of the day but didn't get as much done as I planned on. :lol: One pic is the crossmember for the core support. One is the rear cab mount area. Both are sleeved. The front is stepped down from 2x6 to 2x4. There will be a gusset on the bottom. I'm ready to cut the rest for the step above the rear and the remainder of that end in the morning.
That brings up a question in my mind. Let's say you're building a crossmember out of martial that isn't as tall as the rails, and it's set flush with the top. Would it be desirable to gusset that crossmember at the ends so that it puts load into the bottom of the frame rail rather than potentially flexing the side of the rail when the frame flexes?
That's a good point Jaybee. I look at the load the crossmember is supporting to make a decision about that.
That makes sense. A simple trans crossmember would be a far different situation than a member that's made to stiffen the frame, naturally.
I worked all day and still didn't get much done. I had to stop and do some engineering at one point. I have measurements from the original chassis that has been abused and "internet" measurements. They're not the same. I understand that older vehicles didn't have the precision that newer ones do. Dee Wescott told me some things that made my life easier. :D I ran out of time to put the gusset in the front were the rails neck down from 2x6 to 2x4. Most of the crossmembers are cut to length except for the trans mount. It will be a couple of weeks before I can work on it more. The rear of the frame has to be widened to accept the mustang fuel tank. The parts are cut but not welded yet.
This evening I installed the last of the gussets on the main rails. The next time I post, I hope to be showing much more exciting stuff. :lol:
I made a little progress today. it's starting to look like I'm building a hot rod.
Stopping point for the weekend.
Little more progress today. Removed all the brackets from the mustang rear. Cut out the engine saddle from the mustang that I'm trying to use. Rear suspension in place but not fully welded. I'm really slow anymore. I think I may have gotten old when I wasn't watching. :lol:
you are moving along... at your age , things do slow down some I hear
I finished welding the rear end brackets today. The engine cradle has been trimmed to fit and is ready to attach to the engine and be welded in tomorrow. I had one more family dinner so it wasn't a full day.
The engine and trans mounts are roughed in. I have a lot of work to do before they are finished and acceptable. I have the angle set to match the pinion and it matches the offset of the rear. I'm going to need a 90 degree filter or a remote adapter. It's to soon to tell which will work. I'm going to call Ford and get the dimensions of their 90 degree unit. I stuck an axle in with out out a rotor to check tire clearance. I'm good so far.
Quote. I'm really slow anymore. I think I may have gotten old when I wasn't watching. :lol:
[/quote]
Trust me ...That's NOT slow ... I started my Model A sedan chassis 11ish years ago .... :? Yours is further along than mine .. :shock:
I am now starting to lose track of what parts I have & just where I put them for "safekeeping" ...... :roll:
Bob..... :wink:
Yesterday when I got home from work, I removed the running board supports from the original frame in my shirt sleeves. Today it's 23 degrees. I think my progress is about to slow to a standstill. :(
Yeah, today I worked on my '57 in my shirt sleeves & shop doors open. Weather report says your weather will be here tomorrow.Gotta find some kerosene for the heater. Normal supplier doesn't carry it anymore. Anybody using the forced air type heater that burns diesel instead of kerosene ?I may have to make a change as fewer places have kerosene around here.
If by "forced air heater" you mean torpedo-style, think twice about switching from kerosene to diesel. When I bought the heater I was told to run diesel in it. When I went back latter to confirm, and ask why - I was told because it was cheaper! Not a good enough reason. Not only are the fumes nasty smelling, I ended up with the taste of diesel in my mouth and my hair felt greasy. I sometimes wonder if it is still coating my lungs.
Quote from: "1800guy"If by "forced air heater" you mean torpedo-style, think twice about switching from kerosene to diesel. When I bought the heater I was told to run diesel in it. When I went back latter to confirm, and ask why - I was told because it was cheaper! Not a good enough reason. Not only are the fumes nasty smelling, I ended up with the taste of diesel in my mouth and my hair felt greasy. I sometimes wonder if it is still coating my lungs.
I'm not much of an earth muffin but some studies say that diesel fumes can cause cancer and/or COPD. I worked around heavy trucks and breathed a lot of exhaust fumes without any effects so far, as have a few of you guys probably. I just thought I'd mention it, for what it's worth.
If you do use Diesel, use no. 1 rather than no. 2. No. 1 is what most furnaces use.
Quote from: "enjenjo"If you do use Diesel, use no. 1 rather than no. 2. No. 1 is what most furnaces use.
The label on the heater says "kerosene or #1 fuel oil", is that what you mean by #1 diesel ? As far as I know , low sulpher diesel is all that is readily available around here. I've heard of home heating oil being used in Northern climates but in the South it's usually electricity , natural or propane gas used for heat. If push comes to shove I'll go to a electric heat pump w/ac but that's $ I could use on a project car!
Yes, that's it. Some truck stops carry it here, but I don't know about down south.
Rear end as far as I can go until the tracloc kit arrives. :oops:
I didn't intend to use a chrome cover but do to a mistake with the original cover, I needed a new cover. :D
I finished welding the engine cradle this afternoon. You can tell I don't have grand-kids to entertain. :)
Trans mount and double k-member??
Cab positioned. rear mount attached, ready to fab the front mounts.
I did cab mounts today.
looking good!
I'm using the mustang tank and pump. I haven't got the straps on or filler neck modified yet. I have 3" hanging under the rear crossmember.
For those of us that are not Autocad or Pro-E users, after installing everything today, I realized I wouldn't have enough driveshaft clearance if the suspension bottomed out. The new part will need to be capped top and bottom.
I finished the fuel tank straps today. I used the original Mustang straps. I fabbed up two parts per side to bolt the straps on. I used the rubber protector on the bottom. It's about to return to winter tomorrow so I'm done for a while.
Lackluster update. the trac-loc kit arrived today and I finished the rear end this evening. It's ready for paint and the brakes to be installed. One item on the list is finished. :lol:
I haven't commented on your project but am following and enjoying it. Thank you for taking the time to post your progress. You're doing a great job.
Is there a particular reason for the twin tube rear crossmember, or just using what you had on hand?
George, thanks for the compliment. Frank, I wanted it to be stronger than a straight 1/8 wall tube but didn't want the weight of thicker wall tubing. My thought was that the double wall in the middle would give higher crush strength if this thing got re-ended. I didn't want to play Pinto. I don't know if my engineering is sound or folly. I've tried to be careful with the weight of all the components I'm using.
Quote from: "kb426"George, thanks for the compliment. Frank, I wanted it to be stronger than a straight 1/8 wall tube but didn't want the weight of thicker wall tubing. My thought was that the double wall in the middle would give higher crush strength if this thing got re-ended. I didn't want to play Pinto. I don't know if my engineering is sound or folly. I've tried to be careful with the weight of all the components I'm using.
Sounds like you are on the right track to me.
It was warm enough this morning that I turned on the heater in the garage and got a few things done. The pics are of the running board supports mounted but not blasted. The rear is finished and full of oil. It will get painted the same color as the frame. The 90 degree adapter necessary to hook up an oil filter. We have a cold wave upon us so I'm done for awhile again.
Short of fabbing bed mounts, all the welding is done on the chassis. I don't think I've forgotten anything. All the rest of the items will be nutserted to the chassis.
I too am enjoying watching your progress ...Looking good ...I like the idea of using almost everything possible off the donor car.....That make "repair parts" searching Sooooo much easier when needed .... What kind of nutserts are you using in the frame ??
Bob..... :wink:
UGLY OLDS, I bought a Kar products kit at an auction years ago and now are using McMaster inserts for replacements.
In keeping with the Bullitt theme, I needed gray spoke wheels. I've been looking for months. The wheel god finally smiled on me. :)
Minor update. Winter has broke enough that I can work in the shop. I welded up the frame for the bed today. The metal was cut and vatted a few weeks ago.
First couple pics are mock up shots. I'm pretending I have a truck. :)
Some shots of the uprights to mount the bed frame, front ones have 2 holes, rear has 1, clearance for fuel lines under frame.
Minor update.
Still pluggin' away I see 8)
:lol: :lol:
:ha) :roll: :lol:
Bob...... :wink:
Quote from: "purplepickup"Still pluggin' away I see 8)
100,000 comedians outta work and you're tryin to be funny :lol: :lol:
later jim
So far, I filled or patched 71 places. The remainder will have to wait until the column, hydroboost, clutch and throttle mounts are located and finished. The section of the mustang firewall that has all of those has been trimmed and is ready whenever I figure out where it needs to be.
QuoteSo far, I filled or patched 71 places. The remainder will have to wait until the column, hydroboost, clutch and throttle mounts are located and finished. The section of the mustang firewall that has all of those has been trimmed and is ready whenever I figure out where it needs to be.
You think the relationship of those parts will be the same, so you can use that panel intact?
Quote from: "kb426"So far, I filled or patched 71 places. The remainder will have to wait until the column, hydroboost, clutch and throttle mounts are located and finished. The section of the mustang firewall that has all of those has been trimmed and is ready whenever I figure out where it needs to be.
Wow, and all that before "holy week." How amazing is it that a cab that old and a vehicle that simple had need for 6 dozen holes in the firewall?
Quote from: "jaybee"Quote from: "kb426"So far, I filled or patched 71 places. The remainder will have to wait until the column, hydroboost, clutch and throttle mounts are located and finished. The section of the mustang firewall that has all of those has been trimmed and is ready whenever I figure out where it needs to be.
Quote
Wow, and all that before "holy week." How amazing is it that a cab that old and a vehicle that simple had need for 6 dozen holes in the firewall?
Maybe they were cheaper by the d..... Never Mind ..... :roll:
Bob...... :wink:
Jaybee, I have a really good 49 cab hiding under a tarp. I haven't counted how many holes are in it but I don't think it was ever messed with. The 51 was owned by some industrious owners who had at least 3 and maybe 4 different engine combo's in it back in the late 50's or early 60's. Their methods were somewhat crude but effective. They never thought anything about more holes, more cutting or more welding when performing a swap. Sometime this summer, I'll count holes in the 49 for a comparison.
This is a really small update. The last 2 weekends have been poor weather so I didn't accomplish anything in the shop. Yesterday I added some risers to my trailer so the cab sits solidly instead of having blocks stuck under it. The roll around cart I use for cabs got redone so now the wheels are 4'x 4'. It was 2 x 2. Yesterday I sanded and painted the silver wheels. I used Duplicolor wheel paint. It appears to be regular enamel in a can. It went on good and the color will be fine for my plan. I don't expect it to be long lived.
Another minor update. Frank, when you asked about that panel working with everything, I was very hesitant to have an opinion. It was about as I expected. The clutch and brake are mounted. The throttle pedal is in the right place but I haven't decided which way to mount it yet. The steering column is a mess but I have a plan now. The PATS is going to cause me grief because of needing to use the factory column and gauge panel. I'll spend time thinking instead of cutting and welding to get it to work. I found a pic on a cobra forum where they converted most of the hydroboost lines to 3/8's hard lines. That's probably how most of this will be connected. It takes about an hour to bring the cab in from the outside, move the frame away from the wall and mount it. Because of that, there is no progress during the week. I think one more good weekend might be enough to be ready to paint the frame. I'll be waiting on the weather to cooperate temp wise. The logistics of this project in my shop is about to get difficult. It's my fault for not having a dedicated shop so I blame myself. :lol:
Looking good. Are those stock brake and clutch pedals?
Jaybee, that's from the 96 mustang. The donor only had a brake so I bought another set with the clutch pedal. That allowed the Mustang cable clutch to be viable. That's the easiest clutch linkage I ever did!
Ah, OK then. It's a cool project and I'm really enjoying it.
This is self explanatory. I have no tire shop in town that I would let touch my stuff.
Over at the slow progress shop, I got 1 more thing crossed off the list today. Most of yesterday was a yard day getting ready for spring. One of the compromises in putting the engine back as far as I did was lack of clearance for a steering u-joint on the r-p. I used 1.5" 6061 alum shaft to make offset bushings to change the angle of the unit where it's mounted to the crossmember. I did a little measuring and found that a 10 degree angle would give lots of clearance for the u-joint and the oil filter outlet housing. I angle drilled the holes for the 5/8" bolts and then angle cut the ends. After making sure the angles were correct, I used a reciprocating saw to cut the bushings in half. They have a slight compression on the flanges to hold the steering unit snug when the fasteners are tight. The steering shaft will clear everything now to the column. I tried to get a pic but it was too dark to show the clearance.
Yesterday, the 2004 crown vic exhaust manifolds I purchased arrived. The outlets are at a different angle than the Mustangs. It will make running exhaust easier. I got started mounting the Mustang column and connecting the steering shaft. The pics are of the adapter I machined to connect the dissimilar shafts and the clearance I have. The heat riser tube is loose and about an inch away from the shaft. The pic of the Mustang floor plate is the part that will be adapted to the floor panel to fill the hole.
Made a plate to cover the factory steering - pedal hole. I adapted the Mustang lower column bearing support to it. That is welded to the plate. If the weather will cooperate this week, after work some evening I'll bring the cab in and weld the plate to the floor. I replaced 2 of the column braces I made yesterday. I didn't like what I had done. Today's are better but I'd like a better idea still. I may wait until the wiring and ac plumbing is run to see how much space I'll have left.
For those of you that think I've sunk to a new level of show and tell, here's the latest story. I purchased 2004 crown vic exhaust manifolds because they both have belled flanges and the angles of the outlets are going to be way easier to run pipes to. The used parts were missing 2 studs. I see that there is 1 part number listed with Dorman for almost all 4.6 2 valve engines. I order a set and the next morning go pick them up at the parts store. When I get home and look things over, I see that the new ones are 12 mm. The crown vics are 10mm. The Mustang and early crown vics are all 10mm. That's all I could find to buy short of OEM. So, the pic is the manifold drilled and tapped. Just one more thing. :)
Do the Crown Vic manifolds have the same size exhaust pipe "hole" as the Mustang??? I would think the Mustang may be a little larger as in "High Performance" ..... :idea:
Bob .... :wink:
The crown vics are 1/8" smaller at the outlet. The Mustang only has 2 1/4 pipes while the early crown vics have 2". The police version that I looked over before buying the manifolds had a 2 into 1 header pipe. It appears that they have done some things to bolster the low end power of a 4.6 in comparison to a 5.0. I'm running 2.25" tubing and mufflers on this. Unless I find the pot at the end of the rainbow, there won't be enough money for a high rpm upgrade on this. All the cast manifolds I'm looked at have lots of restrictions in them compared to tube headers. The guys on the Mustang forums say that headers are a waste of time on anything short of a serious motor. This is my 4.6 engine so there's room for me to get educated in many ways. :)
I worked on header pipes today. Had to make or modify most everything from the header back. I removed the downstream O2 sensor bungs from the original pipes and made a mandrel to hold them in the lathe. They're ready to be welded in. The Mustang trans crossmember is non-symmetrical. I don't think I'll be able to match the location of the mufflers because of that. I'm not going to do tail pipes until the rear is in and it's sitting on the ground at ride height.
I went to bed last night unhappy with where the mufflers were. Now that I'm old and senile, the idea god doesn't always know my address. This morning it was apparent that I would have to recut the notches in the crossmember and move the mufflers rearward. I have enough room to run tailpipes over or in front of the rear axle. I'm feeling better now. :)
Good solution, it's really coming together.
O2 bungs in. The wind is blowing like crazy and we're about to have a brown out!
Underfloor bracing today. One part on the top will have to be removed for trans removal, hence on the top. I used the square tube dies I have. I'm not real pleased with how it works but I haven't bought anything better yet. I believe it's more rigid than before I cut it for clearance.
I only got a few things done today. Not from lack of trying.One pic is the driveshaft loop. The other is an under the tunnel brace. I tried to make the tunnel out of 16 gauge and one piece. I have a pan brake but alot of what I tried to do wasn't going to work well. I then tried splitting it into 3 parts. The first was simple and finished. I redid the rear most part twice and still didn't like it. Back to the drawing board later.
I now have a complete 48 front end. It has rust and dents but this is the front I wanted. Just more work. :)
A little bit of progress at the expense of a lot of time.
I sure do like watching this build project.
I just found out that I hit my upload quota!
This weekend I removed a lot of the original dash. I made a new part to fill all the damaged and removed areas. I have the din slot for the radio in and the Mustang gauge cluster in. I need to find some style of trim to finish the opening around the cluster. When I find out if there's anything that can be done about the "upload quota", I'll ad pics.
In the words of Vince Gill: this is the last last time I should have to flip the chassis. When I ran the exhaust, I had to widen the frame cut outs to fit how I wanted to run things. Today was the day to finish that.
The "I can do that better" syndrome arrived again. I haven't been happy with part of the engine cradle since day 1. I left it in the back of my mind for later. Today was later. Still not as good as I wanted but as good as I have ideas for at this time. It's boxed all the way around next to the side rails now.
Really lackluster update. I wasted hours trying to straighten the 3 fuel lines from the Mustang. I made the decision today to order a roll of 5/16 and 1/4 line and adapt to the Ford connections and start over. It only costs another $50 to go first class. :) I filled the last 2 big holes in the firewall.
It's always the things you think are going to be easy which seem to take the most time, right?
This continues to be a fun thread to watch.
The fuel lines are roughed in. I ordered some plastic clamps that will allow me to stack the large line on top of the 2 smaller lines running down the side of the frame. I'm not real happy with this but it still is my intention to use as much Mustang stuff as possible. I'm about to get irritated enough to spend another $500 on tools, though. I'd sure like to have the Mastercool flaring tool Frank mentioned and a real tubing straightener. I realize that brake and fuel lines are hidden but that isn't what this is about. :)
Really poor update. New fuel line clamps.
Nice work routing the lines. I have machined parts for weather satellites but do you think I can bend lines to match a curve ? Again nice work.I enjoy your progress posts.
I'm at the LA Roadster show. No progress reorts this weekend. :lol: :lol: :b-d:
I removed all the parts from the Mustang doors to try and retrofit the hardware to the 51. I also removed the rear window regulators to see if I could adapt them for power windows. The latch pic has the attaching bracket for the body stuck in place. It will be a while before I measure the doors to see if this is a good idea or not.
The stack of chrome-moly will become some sort of a rollbar or simple cage. The battery hold-down is for a group 75 side post battery. I may work on the top some more. I'm thinking about what I want it to look like. Because of the crossmember, the dzus tab is not centered so I offset the other one a like distance.
I can't post pics again. I'm blasting parts. No fun at all.
I really pegged the funmeter today! I blasted the frame and the running board supports and radiator -fender mount. I'm ready to paint the chassis now.
I finished painting the chassis and rear end. I would never say it was good but it won't rust now. :) It was 105 in the shop with 38% humidity. I looked like I went for a dip in a pool when I was finished.
I just finished painting the running board supports, core support and drive shaft loop. When and if I can post pics again, I'll update the last couple of posts. At least today I finished before it was 100 degrees in the shop. :)
Yesterday and today I installed the rear suspension and got a lot of the front end on. Tomorrow I should get it on four wheels. When we get the pic problem solved, I'll update everything. Sorry it isn't fixed.
We Want Pictures :!: We Want Pictures :!: We Want Pictures :!: We Want Pictures :lol: :lol: :lol:
Sound like you're "gettin' it done" .. It's neat that you are trying to use as much of the original Mustang as possible . 8)
Bob ..... :wink:
Pics!
More.
More yet. Now we're caught up.
Looks good KB. What color is that? It looks like a darker version of my car. (Mustang's Mineral Gray).
Looks Good KB ... This should be the final assembly , correct :?:
It looks like you & I both use the same "baking booth" ... :lol: Nature's Best ... :idea: :lol: 8)
Bob... :wink:
416Ford, the color is Kirker automotive medium charcoal gray. Whatever that is. :) Bob, unless I found that I have made a mistake, it should be the "in the words of Vince Gill" last last time. I found out that my front wheels have too deep of backspace so I have that to deal with. There were several "issues" on the front end parts. I believe that is the pc description of " that crap doesn't fit" without modification. If the weather cooperates tomorrow, I should have all that addressed and be back to working on the cab. It's 62 degrees here now! Where did my summer go to!!!!!
I'm working on plumbing. I didn't have enough parts to complete anything. "You'll get it on tuesday". No one to blame but myself. The pic is of the mustang rear brake line. Rear calipers overhauled and installed. Numerous small items completed not worthy of mentioning. Next weekend is the Salina show. It will be a while for more progress.
Rear brake lines started. I'm not satisfied, I don't know what I'll change yet.
I'm more satisfied with this end. I'll clamp it to the frame after the cab is on and it's connected to the hydroboost.
Rear lines changed. If I do more, I have to buy more tubing. :) I know they're not real good but I haven't decided if I'll do more or not.
I like what you are doing KB but that filter seems like it will be a pain to change out from the underside?
I may be jumping the gun and you have more plans that I am not seeing. If so ... I am sorry.
416ford, the plan is to loosen the hose clamp and slide it out of the bracket. There is some slack on the hoses so I might be able to angle it down and drain it into a pan. Because I'm reusing all the mustang hardware close to the tank, I was limited to options. My plan was to build this without spending a lot of money but not compromising safety or reliability. The budgets' doing ok but there is lots to do still. A week ago, a friend gave me a bed. It's not perfect but it's 20 times better than the one I had. That removes at least another $500 from the expenditures. I'll have to blast it and do a little rust repair but it's not beat, rusted, abused and left for dead. :) In case you're wondering, my time is not real valuable but the feeling of accomplishment is.
In case you're wondering, my time is not real valuable but the feeling of accomplishment is.
I under stand that completely. I was just wondering if you could get the filter under the other line so the access would be a little easier in the tight area you have to work with.
Keep at it and stay on budget. Looking good so far.
Dave.
I'm staying home for a few weekends. There's lots to do whether I stay or leave. I made some clamps for the brake lines and the fuel lines today. I'll try to do better tomorrow. :)
Did a lot of work today with little results. Removed the fenders from the bed I'm not using. Put the engine in the frame and put it outside. The cab will come in and more work on it is next.
jeez that frame looks nice.
Thanks, C.K.
Another minor update. A few weeks ago, I found out that my front end will only work with 4" backspace wheels. That took the Mustang wheels out of the pic. After doing a lot of research and finding nothing that I was happy with, I bought a pair of torque thrust d's. The color doesn't match so that will have to be addressed later on. I mounted tires and aligned the front end. The left side exhaust manifold had a metric thread for the heat riser that I had nothing to match to. I threaded it to 1/2" pipe and will weld a bushing to the flare adapter. The exhaust pipes are back on and the front hangers roughed in. The trans has oil and the driveshaft is in. I installed the starter and connected the fuel lines also. I have enough parts that will have to be adjusted somehow that all the body will have to be assembled and removed for paint. I plan on driving it some before disassembly. I want all of that done before it cools down alot. Painting may have to wait until spring. My rate of progress isn't as good as I had hoped. If I speed up, I'll try to get it painted before it gets cold.
Nice looking chassis, that'll make an excellent foundation for your truck.
I got a little more done today. I spent an hour this morning throwing away stuff that I might need tomorrow but I couldn't stand the mess. I sanded the bed frame and primered and painted it the same gray as the chassis. The fenders are fresh from the engine vat. Aren't they jewels. :)
Taking a break. I shot rust encapsulator on the floor of the cab. I don't know that I believe in the product but I had it left over from another project and didn't want to blast the underside. I welded up the short seams on the cowl and top. I'm tempted to weld the long seam on the back of the cab. Does anybody have any thoughts about that?
I blasted the firewall and dash to remove the rust from sitting outside the last couple of months.
Firewall is painted to match the frame. The new to me box. It's way better than the one I have.
For my money, I would seal the seams on the cab with urethane caulk. done right it will completely hide the seam, and no problems with warping.
Frank, what brand do you use?
Quote from: "kb426"Frank, what brand do you use?
If I can get it Sikaflex. Otherwise I use 3M.
This update will really put you to sleep. :) I had to make new plates to bolt the door hinges to that fit in the cab. I removed as much of the original tar from the seams that I could without wasting huge amounts of time and put sealer back in. Break is almost over. :)
Trans tunnel and bare areas on the cab blasted and epoxy primed.
Another small update. Several hours spent drilling and removing hinge pins. The pic is of the body side bolted to the new plates made last week. The others are what I think is the last rust repair on the doors and cab. It took about 20 minutes to find the new hinge pins that I put up last fall. :)
Quote. It took about 20 minutes to find the new hinge pins that I put up last fall. :)
[/quote]
You put them right "there" so you would remember right where you put them & would not loose them ....Correct?? :P
Happens around here ALL the time ... :oops:
Why not look into a "Lighter" color for the exterior ?? It would be different ... 8)
Bob... :wink:
Bob, your suggestion about color is the direction I'm headed. I lost the road map to get there at this point. :) I'm taking a break from doing body work on the doors and dash.
Welding some cracks in the doors and doing some body work.
KB .... Just to prove that I'm not kidding ...I looked for a harmonic balancer installation tool for 90 min. today .... :roll:
Just too bull headed to believe it was not there .... :twisted:
I found it right where it belongs ....With the tubing bending tools :shock:
I wonder what "safe" hiding place I should use this time :?:
I GOT IT :idea: In the same drawer as the harmonic balancer puller :?: Naw ....That's too easy ..... :lol:
Really lackluster update. I spent most of the day doing bondo work. I removed the floor and braces from the new box and gave it a bath.
Don't get excited. The first time the doors have been on the cab since being removed a year ago. They're not adjusted or anything good. It was easier to store them this way. :)
I went out this morning thinking I'd get the body work on the cab finished up and primered. I tried to adjust the door hinges but nothing good was happening. I measured the other cab I have and found that the door posts were a 1/4" farther apart than this one. Out comes the portapower. In a little bit I had nice door gaps. My memory isn't good enough to remember how the gaps looked when these trucks weren't very old but this has to be way better than it was. I did some more bondo work but aren't far enough along to primer the whole cab.
This will really excite you! I welded up the holes where the spotlight was. :)
Spot on work if you ask me. :)
Looks good...and given the hard life most of these trucks have had most of the originals I've seen, driven, and ridden in have doors that open and close...but that's about it.
Looks Good KB .... 8) As far as the door gaps , remember that when our style cars & trucks were built the manufacture's did not hold the tolerances we expect today ...
On my Kidd's '37 Dodge , the right side door opening is .375 longer than the left side ... :shock: Of course, the doors are the same length.. :roll:
Adjust weather-strip & door welting to compensate .... :idea:
It's worked great for the last 85K miles or so.... :lol:
Truck is lookin' good .... 8)
Bob .......... :wink
on my Anglia the reveal around the rad shell was 1/4" wider on the drivers side from the factory.
The first Mustang door latch conversion is in use. Lots of work to finish. The other door will be way quicker. :)
The first pic is the mess I started with.
Repeat of yesterday on the other side.
Outside door handle.
oh wow,now that's showing off. :)
I apologize. :)
Quote from: "kb426"I apologize. :)
to all the starving pygmies...........
I used to be embarrassed if it took to long to do simple things. Now I'm happy to be able to complete them. Both doors have latches and handles. The drivers' side has a key lock installed. It took way to long to do this. The long rod is what it took to make the key lock work. I'm back to Mr. Bondo. I'm concerned that the warm weather is about to leave me. I'd like to get the inside of the cab and all jambs and glass areas painted before it gets to cool to paint. Weather has seldom been my friend. :)
Anyone that doesn't understand this maybe on the wrong forum. :)
This is so you don't think I've been goofing off.
It's looking good there KB.... What do you have planned for after lunch :?: :?: :P
Why was the lock cylinder mounted soo low in the door ? Or did I miss a prior explanation :?: :roll:
Bob .... :wink:
Bob, to clear the window channel and it's mount, the actuator rod had to go almost to the back of the door. It's connected to the jamb side of the latch and then runs inside the mount for the window channel. I needed some length to allow the bends in the rod to work. The key latch protrudes far enough into the door that if it was very high, it would hit the glass with the window lowered. If I would have spent way more time, I might have been able to come up with a better plan. The idea god doesn't always know where I am. :)
1st round of high build primer. I'm tired!
I just updated my daily log on the project spreadsheet. Today is 1 year and 3 months since I bought this. Man, am I ever slow! I haven't worked on this every evening like a lot of my projects but I'm a long way from completion. I thought I'd be finished in a year. I must have been on fantasy island! :)
Slow? You bought a shell,converted the suspension AND driveline . Adapted parts instead of using a kit on everything and you think progress is slow?You are making remarkable progress in my estimation and I look forward to the updates each time as the workmanship is always top notch.I have seen some cars that are built in a year and turned out great,they were drivers when the work began! I started on my T roughly 2 years ago and it is not a roller yet.
I think that I hold the record for slow ... I bought my A sedan in 1980 ... I started gathering parts & started the build ....
My updates ....
The body has not been off of the body cart for 22 years .. :shock:
I did roll it from one side of the garage to the other & repacked everything back into it .. ...Do I get points for that :?:
The frame & chassis have been mocked up for at least 14 years ... :shock:
I am still not satisfied with the rear suspension & am still trying to perfect it ... :oops:
Many parts for the tuned-port engine are now obsolete & no longer available . Almost all have gone through the "Close-Out" stage at Rock Auto ... :roll:
Some day ..... :(U)
Bob.... :wink:
Block sanding this evening. No pics. necessary. Block sanding is American for ( fill in the blank with as many 4 letter words as necessary). Time consuming !!!
It's looking pretty nice. Enjoy the block sanding.
Tom
Quote from: "kb426"Block sanding this evening. No pics. necessary. Block sanding is American for ( fill in the blank with as many 4 letter words as necessary). Time consuming !!!
Have you tried the 3M Dry Guide Coat product? The guy who does my paint work showed me this & a set of the foam sanding blocks that have removeable steel rods & that made a big difference in my amatuer prep work.( Big head alert) Our '40 coupe is on page 84 of the current Street Scene!
papastoyss, I'm familiar with the guidecoat. I haven't bought those blocks yet but I probably will before I'm done with this. Your car looked good in the mag.
Today's update is the 2nd application of h.b. primer.
I have disassembled the Mustang ac/heater unit. After looking at everything that would have to be moved, I decided that using it was more time than it's worth. The budget just went up $500 for whatever Vintage Air unit I decide on. I expected this so it's in the original estimate. :)
You're right about the A/C unit. I've salvaged THREE from different vehicles and have yet to find any of them to be even close to fitting under the dash of an older car. Have to admit the Vintage Air people earn their money.
I bought a new air file and a primer gun this week. Last night I sanded the doors for the 2nd time. I could see that I needed some more body work. This morning that was addressed. The cab has been sanded the 2nd time also. I primed the doors for the 3rd time but after doing more bondo work, it might as well be the 1st time again.
What are you using for primer?
Either Kirker from Smartshoppers or what appears to be the same stuff from Summit. 2 part urethane high build, Frank.
I tinted the primer with a little green. I was tired of gray. :) The sun washed out the color in the pics. I can tell I'm finally making some progress.
Looks like you're getting close!
I just finished blocking the doors again. I think it will take 2 more times before they're good enough. Tomorrow more primer arrives and I can repeat. Sorry for the boredom. I'll try to do better in the next few weeks.
Blocking is boredom, isn't it?
Quote from: "kb426"I just finished blocking the doors again. I think it will take 2 more times before they're good enough. Tomorrow more primer arrives and I can repeat. Sorry for the boredom. I'll try to do better in the next few weeks.
Yuuup.. I remember those days when I did a lot of body work & paint as you are now. Totally burned me out & I doubt my joints would put up with it now. My old cars show it too.
Don't read this while driving. You might fall asleep and hurt yourself. :)
What kind of person is excited to get ac in October? Primered doors, again. Ho hum.
What did I do today? I experimented a little bit. I found a small area of damage that I had missed so that was addressed. The glove box door was blasted before painting. I found that the hinge needed work , also.
is that the same blue as Vance's street beast? looks good!
C.K. to the best of my knowledge it isn't. That is Kirker bright cobalt blue which is a knockoff of HOK candy of the same name. I have a thing for striking dashes. As a driver we look at the steering wheel, dash, and the top of the hood so that's most important to me. I'm screwed with the Mustang steering wheel but the gauge panel is ok. Some color that sparkles when the sun hits it is about the most magic this deal will get. :)
The doors have been primed for the last time. The top of the cab will take one more time. The back of the cab I'm not so sure of. I ran out of time and energy. It's ready to be masked and primed the next time I can go to the shop.
Happiness is a freshly sanded cab. :) Especially if you're a simpleton!
One more application of primer on the cab. It's backed into it's storage spot in this pic.
Another terribly boring update. The doors are ready to be sealed and painted. The back of the cab was blocked again and primed, hopefully for the last time.
Looking good.
I am assuming that the thought of spraying the final color on it is what drives you to keep block sanding.
I think it looks great but my wife who works in the model shop of a car company would say to guide spray and block it a few more times. But then, She told me that before I painted my '40 GMC and I just said "It's a truck, its already straighter than it's ever been and I'm not getting any younger!" and that was 22 years ago!
There's no way I could color sand the dash and buff it without error. I sanded it and 1 more coat of clear will be applied. Hopefully in the proper manner. :)
I ordered Nu-Relic window regulators and NewPort wiper motor today. None of my Mustang conversions were going well. :)
Block sanding before painting , again.
The only real good thing is it's done for now. Bugs, windy causing dirt, new paint gun to get used to, etc. Lots of difficulties. The pics are in the make shift booth ready to spray. Gray epoxy primer. The final color for now. Pure white. I was very fortunate to get 1 more fairly warm day to get this knocked out.
I painted a van pure white many years ago, no toner just white , to hide bad bodywork (student project). you could hardly look at it in the sun it was so bright ! I went nearly snow blind when painting it. It was getting hard to judge how far the gun was away from the van.
Our first street rod was painted Corvette white for the same reason as Chimp... :oops: Picture a pure white '40 Ford four door sedan ... :shock: ( With a blown 303 inch flathead...)
It was immediately dubbed the "Kelvinator" & we drove the wheels off it ... :lol:
Looking back , I cannot believe we cut up a perfectly good Tudor sedan to get patch panels to save that four door .... :roll: :roll:
Bob.... :wink:
C.K., I fully understand the snow blind affect. It's been years since I did a white job. The memories returned rapidly.
Bob, if it drives and works well, it could be a kelvinator. If not, it'll be a norge!
Most people enjoy new parts. Here is a box with rubber parts, the front bed panel and the rear sill for the box. The other pic shows that I did clean up some mess. :)
Those of you that have followed my projects for years know that I screw up. You also know that I keep working until it's fixed. The excrement in the paint didn't sand and buff out. So it's back to work somehow. I have to catch a day that will allow me to shot a coat of clear and spot in some really small spots. The pic shows the cab back in it's resting place. Now my wife's car can spend the night in the shop. :) More parts are arriving. pic no. 2.
KB about your paint blemishes , isn't that how panel painting and flames got their start ? Why not bury them in a nice flame job or a lace job? I am just kidding of course ! Now how about a nice mural ! how about the sword wielding buxom blonde in the chariot pulled by two polar bears..........must be a great white north thing!
The Newport wiper motor arrived yesterday. I've been sanding small parts the last couple of evenings. It was warm enough this evening that I wet sanded most of the cab outside before it got dark. I hope my sunday update is one of success. :)
I've had quite a day. For a change, I got more done than I expected. I finished sanding all the parts. I had to reshoot the white to cover up the excrement in the paint. Then I shot 2 coats of clear over it. My new friend, the fly came to visit. He didn't stay long but it's in the last coat and will be easy to remove. It's not great but it's better than it was. :)
I media blasted the outside of the rear fenders and epoxy primed them today. They are one big bent piece! It's about to turn into winter so things will slow down about to a standstill. We had fabulous weather for November.
I'm working on vent windows today. I disassembled both of them. One of the window frames has rust in it. I have to make a decision as to repair or purchase replacements. The word replacement means there could be a surprise. I only found 1 vendor that has the frames. I'm going to do more research before I make a decision.
I looked for months for good Mustang seats with no success. I bought a pair of 2013 Doge Dart seats. These are black with a few small stains but no damage. The pic is poor in color and size.
One thing you may not know, many of the late model seats have the latch side of the seat belt mounted to the seat itself.The seat base is made to support this, but the seat mounting bolts are much larger that what we used to use. Most late model seats have at least four 10mm bolts. And there are substantial reinforcement in the floor. Just make sure you do this so the belts are not just for looks
I have observed the seat belt mount change. The belt is bolted to a 90 degree bent bracket that has 2 rivets holding it to the movable part of the seat frame. By having that part attached to the seat, it's always in the correct placement as desired by the designing engineers. I had planned on using the Mustang belts which are floor mount. I think I'll spend some time analyzing this to see what has the most advantages.
Quote from: "kb426"I'm working on vent windows today. I disassembled both of them. One of the window frames has rust in it. I have to make a decision as to repair or purchase replacements. The word replacement means there could be a surprise. I only found 1 vendor that has the frames. I'm going to do more research before I make a decision.
IMHO vent windows are best if you like wind noise & water leaks. My '40 doesn't have them & neither will my '57 wagon.
papastoyss, I have dealt with the wind but I've missed the water leaks. When I researched the non-vent window, I found lots of people with lack of satisfaction with the available kits to do that. After looking in the door at the hinge area and how far the door frame was recessed for the new channel on the front, I chickened out. But, at that point I still thought I would have original exterior door handles so the look would be original from the outside. After I got involved with the Mustang door latches, that plan got modified. I always wondered why the 48 Chevy pickup has one piece but the newer versions have vent windows. Was this just about summer cooling or was there something else? Does anybody here know the reason for the change?
QuoteDoes anybody here know the reason for the change?
Yes, I do.They added the vent windows to make them look more "modern", the same reason they took them back out in 68.
Boy, Frank, that was a purely scientific reason! We should never forget that companies make cars to make money. :)
I installed the door handles and the key lock today. I put epoxy primer on the original running boards so they could be stored outside. Then I color sanded and buffed. It's not good but it's better than it was.
Cowl vent, wipers and the evaporator are in place. I spent another hour adjusting door hinges again. The reason the evaporator is so far away from the kick panel is that's where the ecu is going. The factory Mustang harness has it on that side.
The vent window explanation can be done with a simple experiment. Ride in a truck with no vent windows, no cowl vent or a closed cowl vent, and no air conditioning. Then take a ride in the same type of vehicle with vent windows and a cowl vent opened and then closed. The vent windows allow a lot more air through the cab and the cowl vent makes a big difference too.
I have modified doors to make one piece side glasses. Most of the time it is a big job as a lot of the doors are made so that the vent window is at a slight angle to the door glass. You need to add material on the outside in a pie shape to straighten the window opening for the one piece glass. On the inside you remove material. You also need to reshape the inside window trim so that it fits the new glass. Then there is the problems with the window channel and the door hinge area. There are lots of things to consider. I think the one piece looks better, but I will never do another one.
John
Little bit of progress. Doesn't reflect on how much time I spent. I redid the bracket that holds the evaporator. When I cut the hole for the hose for the center vent, it was too weak to do as intended. I made a thicker bracket and have things where I believe they will allow the wiring harness and gauge cluster to cooperate. The back glass is in. I put Thermo-tec on the back and the top of the cab.
That sure quiets a cab down.
Those of you with a fabulous memory will remember me mentioning the "friday curse" that follows me sometimes. Today has been a trying day to say the least. This pic looks like not much happened. I'll let it go at that. :)
Lot of hours, not much progress.
looks awesome ,love the wheels!
The bed frame is on and holes drilled.
Yesterday I sanded and painted a new pair of wheels for the rear. If someone knows of an exact match for American Racing gray, I'd like to know about it. Today I removed the power window, power door lock and the convertible top wiring from the harness. I retained the feed from the power supply to connect to my new harness connections.
You like patina? I have patina! No painting till next summer! Tiny bit of progress.
I spent the last couple of days changing things that weren't going to work well. Most was cosmetic but when I was checking the rear suspension, I realized that the right rear brake line was going to be pinched if the suspension travel was every fully used. I redid those lines and finished the front going to the master cylinder. The hydroboost lines have been finished and the belt is on the engine for the first time since disassembly.
Sounds like taking a break gave you a chance to catch up with yourself and look at what you've done.
I'm enjoying this thread. I like following you guys's projects. :D
I started off the day by bleeding brakes. About the time I was done with that, I noticed it was getting cooler in the shop. The heater had quit working. After an hour of diagnosing, I found the blower relay had quit. I was able to wire around it and have the gas valve work properly but the fan doesn't shut off unless I unplug it. At least I have heat. Today was our Christmas dinner and after that I decided to take a look at the new radiator and get a plan for mounts. I ran to the parts store and got a 90 degree elbow to hook up the lower hose. Then I decided to fix one more of the surprises I found a couple of days ago. When I installed the ac compressor, I realized the lines were to close to the crossmember and the fittings wouldn't clear. I looked for a different manifold and didn't find anything that looked like it would fix the problem. SO I cut the lines and rotated them and welded them back together. I welded about 3/8 " at a time because I don't know if these are silver soldered together or friction welded. I didn't take any chances. I may see if I can rig up a vacuum tester to see how I did.
Once again I worked all day and didn't get much done. One of the pics is the remote filter mounted. The radiator is in place and some of the mounting done. There is the cooling fan and the ac condenser to mount still. The pic of all the hydroboost lines is just to show that using the Mustang parts leaves you with some real ugly areas.
I spent 2 days trying to out smart Ford's PATS system. I give up. I'm going to order some software to disable the pats in the pcm. If someone knows of a wire around, I'd like to hear about it.
One pic is of the wiring I'm trying to find a way to use gracefully. I spent most of the day making panels to fill the gap between the radiator and the radiator support, mounting the condenser, and mounting the cooling fan. The fan is spaced so it can't rub anywhere on the radiator. Same with the condenser. I hooked up power to the fan and it seems to move plenty of air. I won't know until it's above 100 degrees and I'm stuck in traffic with the ac on. :)
The most important item is that the 51 is outside and my wife's car is inside. :)
The seats are in the location that I believe is the best of the compromises. The height and location is set and one bolt in each bracket. They will need braces and I have to fab doubler plates for the underneath side. I didn't realize the pic was so poor until the truck was outside. It's 15 degrees out there.
Does this help?
Absolutely!
Let me apologize for being boring. This weekends task was to do some repair on the rear fenders. I hammered and dollied some and installed panels where the Merc tail lights used to be. I'm going to have an embarrassing amount of time in these.
This pic shows the panels I bought for the bed floor just laid out to see how it would work. I think I will coat them with bedliner. I wasn't having any success finding a bed floor anywhere that wasn't damaged or inexpensive.
I spent most of the day working on the rear fenders. One faintly resembles a useable fender.
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"I spent most of the day working on the rear fenders. One faintly resembles a useable fender.
The bed floor looks like it will work fine ... :idea: Why cover it with bed liner :?: It looks good as it is ..work on maybe hiding the seam in the middle & paint it a contrasting color to the body ... :?:
Don't worry about your fender " adventure" ... I'm prepared with
my Model A front fenders ...I have 7 chances to make 2 .... :roll:
Bob.... :wink:
The fenders are bolted to the box but not finished. The area that meets the running boards still needs repaired. New steel rear fenders are $1300 a pair plus shipping. I think I'm going to be at $3.50 an hour when I get finished. :)
If the new tin for your truck is anything like the stuff I got for my model T then you are ahead of the game where you are . Just because its new doesn't mean it fits , you would likely be putting hours of your time into the new ones to get them to your liking. Keep up the good work ! I enjoy watching your progress through this build.
This is a really enjoyable project to watch.
Quote from: "kb426"I think I'm going to be at $3.50 an hour when I get finished. :)
That's a lot of hammering to get to that cost. Your fenders look like they are worth saving anyways. Plus you'll be able to look at the truck years from now and have all the memories of the fun. :)
I appreciate all the comments, guys. When people that have built several cars say they enjoy something, it means something. Here's the first startup. I have a ground issue on the gauges and the fuel pump relay. One step at a time is still moving. :)
Last night, I'm working on the wiring to the fuel pump. I realize that the problem isn't power to the relay but the output to the pump. I have capped off the egr tube from the exhaust manifold and want to hear what it sounds like. I connect my bypass on the pump wiring and it fires right up. 30 seconds later the engine locks up. No noise, no nothing. The crank is welded to bearings or block. I'm analyzing options so as soon as I make a decision, I'll post what I'm doing. I was nervous about this engine, now I'm not. It's better to fail in the garage rather than 1000 miles from home.
Well, that sucks. :shock:
Ouch , well , as you put it , better in the garage than out on a trip . You could have been putting your foot in it and hung the rods out of it out on some back road.
Oh wow, bummer that. Glad at least it happened now and not on the road somewhere.
Sorry to hear that kb. Hopefully you can pick up another engine fairly cheap. It will be an easier swap now with the front end off also.
This is a quick rundown of what I considered. There is no add-in for time for new fabrication on any changeovers.
Engine options
5.7 hemi
used with acces. $3680 plus frt. wiring harness and ecu $1,650
new with clutch $5595 plus $329 frt.
bellhousing $100
Ramjet 350
new $5745 free frt.
acces. $300
bellhousing $100
clutch $150
5.3 LS swap $1050 and up plus frt. PSI harness and ecu $900
Hanlon adapter for 3650 trans with front retainer $550
Coyote new $6,200 wiring harness and ecu $1,500
acces. at least $500
Used f150 coyote $3000 plus frt. wiring harness and ecu $1,500
used low mileage 4.6 Crown Vic 4.6 $645 with shipping
I have been impressed with your practical using of what you managed to retrieve from that Mustang. I'd always have trouble in my mind (what there is left of it) not continuing with that mindset. Why don't you take some time and pull that engine out and tear it down. Are you building this truck for You forever? If it will be going down the road there are people that will want it because it has a "Hemi" or will want it because it has a "crate" "Chevy". There are also people that will want it because it's all Ford and it might appeal to somebody that is just impressed that it looks old and everything that is not special or old truck might come out of a parts book labeled 'Mustang".I'm not in the position to buy anything and I've never had any luck selling anything but maybe being tired of beating on those fenders has you tired and wanting some rest which is giving you too much time thinking about how to fix a problem that you aren't sure what it is
Huh? is this a reality show build with a definite due date to be done?
I'd be pulling that V8 and tearing it down and rebuilding it. With all the fab work you've done so far I would think an engine rebuild would be an easy project add. At worst a rebuilt shortblock and valve job.
Unless you are looking for an excuse to spend money and really want a newer Hemi.
GPster, those are all very valid considerations. I'm like you in selling so that hasn't been much of a concern. To not have dependability is a huge concern. After I bought the car and disassembled it, I realized the owner hadn't been honest about some of what he told me. I also found the remains of a SCT decal on a fender and the cable for a laptop connected to the obd port. At that point, I was concerned about what had been done to the car. Some of my friends have voiced their opinions about the engine choice in good fun. But I thought it was better to look at some options before going ahead. In the last 2 weeks, the price on crown vic 4.6's has gone done considerably. I know the crank is seized. You can't rotate it either direction. I can buy the newer engine and get a small warranty for far less money than almost anything I could do to the current engine. As I'm typing, the fluids are draining. I'm pulling the engine and giving it a quick look over. By the end of the weekend, I will know if there's any hope for it. I haven't lost sight of the original goal, it just got a little more expensive. :) I have to drive 100's of miles to car events so making sure that the engine is good is really important to me. The engine and trans are the only major items that haven't been rebuilt or are new in the drivetrain. I know that everytime you buy a used engine there is an element of risk. Buying from a company with a warranty and the fact that it came out of a family car lessons that some. And you are correct about me being tired of looking at fenders. :) Thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate all that has been posted on this thread. Now it's back to work. Put the engine in, take the engine out. put the engine in, take the engine out. That must be my new exercise program. :)
George, this is the logic for replacement. If I rebuild that engine I won't be satisfied unless it has everything done to it. The parts for these are pretty expensive. I would spend at least 2 grand and still have a 215 hp version. The newer Crown Vic version is the same as the 260 hp. Mustang version with a different exhaust and tuneup in the ecu. It will have the improved spark plug thread engagement and a different balancer that is supposed to control harmonics better to avoid oil pump gear fractures. If I buy an engine that is low mileage, I will tell myself that I don't need to mess with it. I enjoyed your comment about the reality show. :) I'm always in a hurry to get finished no matter what the subject matter is. This project has lasted longer than any other I have done.
Gee KB ... You need to look at the positive side ... :roll: At least you need not worry about scratching the front fenders while changing the engine .. :idea: AND ..All the bolts are easy to access & not rusty ... 8)
I agree that the later Crown Vic engines are better with more power .. Are they drilled for a pilot bearing so you can keep your trans ??? PM me ...I have a contact close to you that has New take-out engines available for reasonable pricing ....( With Warranty ) ...
Bob .... :wink:
Bob, you have it figured out! The crank hole is the same on all the 6 bolt flange 4.6's as far as I can tell. I bought a 70,000 mile Grand Marquis engine for $422 last night. 90 day warranty and from a salvage yard company I've used before. Thank you very much for your offer.
Quote from: "kb426"90 day warranty
Will you be able to drive it in 90 days? Continuing the original idea only better. GPster
Quote from: "kb426"George, this is the logic for replacement. If I rebuild that engine I won't be satisfied unless it has everything done to it. The parts for these are pretty expensive. I would spend at least 2 grand and still have a 215 hp version. The newer Crown Vic version is the same as the 260 hp. Mustang version with a different exhaust and tuneup in the ecu. It will have the improved spark plug thread engagement and a different balancer that is supposed to control harmonics better to avoid oil pump gear fractures. If I buy an engine that is low mileage, I will tell myself that I don't need to mess with it. I enjoyed your comment about the reality show. :) I'm always in a hurry to get finished no matter what the subject matter is. This project has lasted longer than any other I have done.
Pardon my ignorance here..I really know nothing about these engines.
Nor do I know cost wise what is involved in tearing one of these down.
To me..doesn't seem like too big a deal to turn one of these into a cop engine.
Maybe just some used cop car engine parts and some gaskets..
There are zillions of these "Police Interceptor" CV's up here.In use,taxis,people buy them at the auctions and drive them. I see them ALL the time. For sale too.
I have heard the exhaust rumble and seen a few of them go..
I think they have a lot more than 260 hp.
Bob, I fully intend to be driving before 90 days have passed. The rusty metal won't get painted until summer. I may eat doodoo on that but that is my plan. Arnold, the police version is the same as all the 4.6's you see listed as PI. That means power improved. The Mustangs got that in 1999 and I believe the four doors in 2001. The Mustang had the highest rating at 260 hp. The police version is 252. The only difference in all the newer ones is the exhaust and the tune in the ecu. The police tune is very close to the Mustang. The crown vic and Grand Marquis have a milder timing curve and the fuel parameters have been changed.
Today's task after cleaning up the mess from the engine removal was to pull the pedal assembly and modify the mounts. There are 4 .5" risers that protrude towards the firewall that I believe were to provide spacing for firewall insulation. The master cylinder rod attached to the hydroboost is non-adjustable. In order to equalize the clutch and brake pedal heights, I removed .350" of those risers,now the pedals are very close to each other. I double walled the firewall in that area for stiffness for the pedals and didn't realize there wasn't any adjustment on the brake rod.
Seems you have it figured out on the engines and a plan.
Tony, by using the newer 4.6, I have components that are all factory designed for the power level that the engine produces. The 260 hp. should be satisfactory with the 5 speed and I'm estimating at 3500 lbs. I think I'm done with surprises. I know that the wiring and ecu will let it run so after I get the engine installed I can resume removing wiring circuits that I don't need. It won't ever be as clean as an after market harness but it will be better than when I started. :)
We've had a little Indian summer the last 2 days. Today while it was 82 degrees, I vatted the bed floor panels and epoxy primed both sides and painted one side. I'm still thinking of using bed liner but I'm going to think about the budget before that decision is made. You can see I had a spectator in one pic. Doesn't he know it's February? :)
Today's boring task. The hood had been ground on where the lead was and it was really thin. The brace underneath is bent and I'm going to have to make a jig to straighten it.
KB ... How do you control the warpage welding a panel into a low crown area like that ??? Also ...Do you Tig or Mig ???
Thanks ...
Bob .... :wink:
Bob, I tig everything. I spotted every 2", then 1", then 1/2" and there is still some warpage. I believe because the area had been repaired once before that the warpage was worse than I expected. The reason there was 2 pieces of metal used was that I was using up the last of the .035" metal I had. The fenders are all .047" or there abouts. The hood was thinner which I hadn't been aware of until I cut it and measured it.
The replacement engine was delivered today. There was a large cardboard box hiding the contents. There was no visible damage to the box. After removing the box I found that they used a pallet that didn't fit the engine at all. The oil pressure sender was broken and there was a thick oil over the front of the engine and in the valley. After I removed it from the pallet I gave it a solvent bath. Something strange blew off the intake. It appears to be leftover rib bones. They were large for chicken bones. Nice of someone to leave his lunch mess for me to clean up. After cleaning up the mess, the engine looks to be sealed up well. There's no sign of an oil leak on the pan or seals. I put a socket on the crank and it turns over so that's how far I got today. This weekend there will be lots of items to changeover.
Everything's ready to do the swap tomorrow. I wonder if I can turn a 2 hour job into all day? :)
Quote from: "kb426"Everything's ready to do the swap tomorrow.QuoteI wonder if I can turn a 2 hour job into all day? :)
I can stop by to help ...Together we could prolly stretch it out to 3 or 4 days :idea: :?:
Bob.... :wink:
With my help, we won't even make it to the shop for a couple weeks.
I'm taking a little break. I've been bent over changing out stuff on the bottom side on the heads and block. I found out that if you buy a $33 belt tensioner, you don't have to change front covers. You can guess how long it took to make that decision. Bob and Frank, I think having you 2 helping, we'd spend more time laughing and have a great day. Old guys seem to know how to enjoy life! Back to work.
Sounds like $33 well spent.
I would have spent a couple of hours struggling with something that should've almost fallen apart, watched it fall apart, and spent the $33 anyway.
The important part is the bleeding. No job is finished until blood is drawn.
Quote from: "enjenjo"With my help, we won't even make it to the shop for a couple weeks.
The trouble with getting old is that you start to realize that you weren't as fast as you thought you were. GPster
Quote from: "kb426"I found out that if you buy a $33 belt tensioner, you don't have to change front covers. You can guess how long it took to make that decision.
I am cheep. I would have swapped the cover out, bought new gasket @ $25.00 cracked the original cover, bought a new one for $110 and had it all done in two weeks.
If me n enjenjo were there... it'd be a mess.
I firmly believe more than half the tool box must be emptied to have enough tools out & in the way.
Franks thinks they should be tossed on the ground first to save dropping them or the tools falling off the bench. i agree with that!
So, the floor would be full of tools, nothing would get done since old guys dont want to trip, fall , break a hip joint.
Jaybee, I drew blood. Now the frame has some character on it. I'm 4 hours behind my estimate but better than a lot of days I've had in the last couple of years. :) One of the pics is of a heater hose nipple that was broken off when I got the engine. There was a red plug in it so I assume the salvage yard new it and didn't mention it. We'll have a discussion about that. I faced it off and tapped it for 3/8" pipe. One pic shows the clearance that I have for the oil filter now. The new engine didn't have the oil cooler that the old one had. 2 less lines and 2 less places to leak. I had to drill and tap the crossover on the intake manifold for the ect sensor for the ecu. There was a few other items but most were small. I've spent most of the day bent over. I'll be feeling that for awhile. Back to work.
Quote from: "kb426"I'm taking a little break. I've been bent over changing out stuff on the bottom side on the heads and block. I found out that if you buy a $33 belt tensioner, you don't have to change front covers. You can guess how long it took to make that decision. Bob and Frank, I think having you 2 helping, we'd spend more time laughing and have a great day. QuoteOld guys seem to know how to enjoy life! Back to work.
Yessir ...That old Frank feller is ALWAYS good for a good time .... :P :lol:
Hey KB .. Look at the bright side ... At least this engine had the correct exhaust manifolds ...... :idea: :roll:
Bob... :wink:
It's running and we have oil pressure. I'm having difficulties with the wiring. Ford uses 2 ground systems. I haven't got it all solved yet. :)
Quote from: "kb426"It's running and we have oil pressure. I'm having difficulties with the wiring. Ford uses 2 ground systems. I haven't got it all solved yet. :)
watched the video.
looks like there is 300 feet of wire setting there!
I worked all day and got about 30 minutes of results accomplished. :) One pic is of the trans harness after it was changed from auto to manual. One is a pile of some circuits that I traced and removed. One is the rear harness in a semi- complete form. The throttle pedal hasn't been installed yet but it is able to move under it's own power now.
On that heater hose fitting, you may want to remove the fitting you threaded into it, and reinstall it finger tight after coating the threads with epoxy, and let it set up. Using a tapered thread tends to crack the plastic after a short time from stress.
Frank, I wondered about that. I coated it with silicone and didn't tighten it too much. I'm going to have to drain the antifreeze and change the hoses. The angle of both outlets on the engine were different enough that the hoses have some restriction in them. I'm going to wait until I connect the heater hoses to the heater.
This is really lackluster. I got the throttle pedal installed and the wiring to the alternator changed so it charges. Only took 3 hours.:)
For those of you that appreciate first times! :)
Way to go. Hope this one holds up longer then the last one.
NEAT :!: An "Off-Road" Street Rod" I LOVE it :!:
It sure sounds good ... 8)
Bob.... :wink:
416Ford, this engine is the complete opposite of the original. That Mustang had been abused from every way possible. The new engine fired instantly, sounds right, takes throttle well, had great oil pressure, other than the nipple being broken, I expect good things from it. When I was swapping the harness from engine to engine, I found that most of the clips on the connectors were broken. What kind of person breaks 8 and never figures out how they work? I really believe that the other engine seizing was a gift from the project god. :)
Thanks, Bob. I have to run over a curb with one wheel to do what I did. It sure doesn't have a leaf spring suspension. :)
Today's project was a harness to go from coil pack to coil on plug. The anti-theft wiring I stripped out gave up some of it's life for this. :)
Let me preface this by stating that I'm not a 4.6 expert. I have some knowledge of the engine series. With my research, I have found more bottom end failures that anything else until you get to the Triton series. Today I removed the heads and front cover from the old engine. Those parts all looked very serviceable. There was minimal wear in the cylinders. No sign of oil consumption. The heads look fine. I didn't pull the pan to see how bad the bottom was. I hauled the shortblock to the scrap pile. I think it added to the statistic of bottom end failures.
did those engines have the fractured rods , you know , the ones that were split with a press after finish machining and were supposedly non rebuildable ?
CK, that would be correct. I have read that there is an oversize rod bearing for these. I don't know if it's regularly used or not. The assembly for my 302 was a grand. Most for the 4.6 is 2 grand. They're just expensive to work on. I was happy to see nothing but orings on what I removed. No leaks is always good. :)
I worked on wiring today. About 80% of the firewall forward has been modified. The lights are hanging loose still. The master fuse panel and the relay module will be attached to the inner fenders after the front is installed. I removed the rest of the door lock and anti-theft from the rear harness. It's hung with adel clamps. Tomorrow I work under the dash and try to run everything through the firewall. I don't know if 1 day will be enough to do that.
I am amazed at what you do with wires... I put a 1989 TBI chevy engine in a 1970 Chev truck yrs ago... with a book , I used the OEM wire harness. I've done many things "once" & never again. LOL
Looks good
I decided to run the harness through the trans cover. I spent enough time filling holes on the firewall that I don't want to put any back unless it's absolutely necessary. The ecu is mounted on the right side firewall. I left enough clearance in the bracket to put insulation next to the firewall. The inside fuse panel will need a bracket to hold it under the dash on the left side. The coiled up wire in the middle is extra circuits from the maxi fuses and relays to be used with the ac and stereo. The wipers will be run from the inside fuse panel. It's the middle of the afternoon and I quit. I'm brain tired. :) Once the wiring is in the best place to work around the evaporator, I'll build a cover to seal all the wiring off from the engine bay.
This surely won't surprise some of you. I have redone the radiator hoses for the new engine so there isn't restrictions. I let it run long enough to find out that I have a problem with the cooling fan coming on and the speedo and the tach have problems. After doing some research, I see that it is common for a Mustang cluster to have a double speed tach and a speedo that shows nothing. The fan may not be related to the rest of the panel but I quit before investigating that. Aftermarket gauges are starting to look better. :) The Mustang donor hasn't proved to be as useful as anticipated.
This evening I installed the COP harness and removed the coil pack units. I noticed the right rear wheel had runout. I removed the wheel and found a bent axle. I never thought to check the axles while rebuilding the rear. Old parts are interesting. :)
Quote from: "kb426"Old parts are interesting. :)
Ain't it the truth?
QuoteOld parts are interesting.
Are you trying to say perhaps the Mustang was "Rode Hard & Put Up Wet" one too may times ????
Bob ...
Bob, shot in the rear and left to die would be more accurate. :)
I had 2 gas filler necks, one from the mustang and one from a 83 tbird that was a donor for a 53 chevy pickup years ago. The bends on the tbird one suited my goal better. It had the rubber hose inside as Frank had posted a pic of. I cut a few degrees out of a bend and connected it with gas hose. I now have a hole in the rear fender so I can put fuel in without removing a fender. :) I'm pretty sure I cut a part of the mustang's quarter panel out to have the recess for the filler door. I haven't found it yet. I drilled the left side of the intake for the second coolant sensor. After doing some research, I wasn't confident that the one in the block in the new engine would replicate the readings necessary to run everything needed for the ecu. I started working on the bed floor before I quit. At least it's not cold now.
Pic of the bed floor. I'm going to use .125 x 2" strap in between the strips. I took a short drive. :)
I like your choice of bed floor. It's different and is appropriate for your Pro Touring vibe.
Today the wiring for all the lights on the rear was finished. I made 32" extensions to run the harness' out to the fenders. The wiring for the wipers is completed. I couldn't make the turn signal control run both speeds on the wipers. The broken electronic control is what makes the factory wipers have 2 speeds and the interval wiper functions. It was high or nothing so I used the switch that came with the Newport kit. I had to make some connectors for the backup switch on the trans. The new axle is installed in the rear. I'm going to let it sit over night before I fill the rear.
I'm done with the bed floor until the decision on how to finish it is made. I'm not thrilled with the battery access panel but I haven't had a better idea. It is split under the unpainted divider strip. I wanted to be able to remove the battery with out removing the strip but I didn't want the strip to be multi piece. I filled the rear end up and gave it a test spin. The axle run out is gone. I put the old axle in the lathe and checked it. .018 run out. I'll probably cut the flange off and use it for a punch or pry bar. I'm taking a break but I'm not sure I'm going back to work. :)
Gratuitous drive way shot for those that aren't watching basketball. :) I'm going to raise up the rear. You can't get a tire off without raising up the body. Because I want this to be a dependable driver, I think that needs to be addressed.
I would put that axle back in the lathe and face off the .018 . then you have a spare.
KB ...It's lookin' GOOD !! I like it ..
It's shame but I agree, the rear end needs to come up some for a dependable driver ... I remember years ago at K-Zoo , we helped a couple of Canadian guys change a flat tire on a Pro-Street Desoto.. SUPER neat car , but we had to drop the rear axle from the suspension for clearance to get the tire off & on ... Nice looking ..Not very practical ...
Everyone laugh's at me because I carry a full size "Mini-Spare" .. They would prolly laugh harder if they knew that before one of my cars hits the road, I deflate one Front & one Rear tire in the garage ... I then install the spare using ONLY what's in the car .... :idea:
I feel it's better to figure it out there than on the side of the road ..... :lol:
Bob .... :wink:
I agree, Bob.
My Anglia was like that for rear tire removal . I actually had to remove the back bolts from the wheel cyl. to get the top 4link bolts out to drop the rear end and remove a tire.
I had a short conversation with the Vintage Air tech department today. After talking to him, I ordered a new ac compressor. I was planning on using the compressor from the Mustang. For those of you that have followed this thread, you know my used parts success % is pretty low. Rather than take a chance and loose all the new parts, I ordered the pump. Just a little more money. :)
The new compressor was installed today. I spent hours trouble shooting the factory relay module that runs the ecu, fuel pump, two speed fan and the ac. I have narrowed it down to ecu or the project devil is hurting me. :) I had to order spring lock fittings for the compressor. I thought the local shop had them. Miscommunication between them and me.
Today I have the horn mounted and wired. When I removed the anti theft, I broke the circuit. I now have inside door handles. I used the Mustang hardware. I will have to make some surrounds to cover up the mechanism. The handles will get painted flat black when the interior gets finished. I cut off the coil pack mount of the left side of the engine. I kept the part that mounts the power steering reservoir.
I'm taking a break. I've been bent over sideways for a little too long. :) Light switch is mounted. Fuse panel is hung. Progress on the rest of the inside harness. All the coiled wires are extra feeds that I believe I will need to finish the ac, stereo, windows, dome light, and whatever else I have forgot.
Laying under the dashboard takes it out of a body, doesn't it? My weight has been up and down over the last 10 years and when it was up it got really hard to be curled up in those awkward positions.
Towards the end of yesterday, I started working on headlight wiring. The mustang had been messed with some and I was converting to halogen sealed beams to retain the look of the 49 front end I'm using. I didn't end up with the desired results. This evening I disassembled the steering column. My multi function switch might be referred to as no function. I ordered a new one. One more mustang failure. :)
Jeez that mustang has been stingy with useable parts . I hope your door handles don't strip out !
Today we have some ac hoses. We also have the engine cooling fan operating. The pic will show that space was a problem. If I would have had tubing of the correct sizes, I would have relocated the compressor outlets. It still would have been close.
The last part of the cooling fan circuit was solved tonight. I wanted to have a manual override to turn on the fan for "parade mode" as it has been referred to. That circuit has been isolated and test connected with the desired results. I hope this isn't the only accomplishment for the upcoming weekend. :)
I loomed up the headlight wiring, removed the coil pack to cop connectors and replaced them with weatherpak. The underhood wiring is as good as it will be unless I decide it needs to be dressed up somehow. I have the evaporator connected to the compressor pulling vacuum checking my manifold mod for leaks. So far, so good.
This is today's task. I'm pretty sure these mustang parts are going to work. :) I'm thinking about welding small rod around the openings to give it a finished look. I'm thinking of using some black rubber in between the metal and the lenses for an interface. This will provide tail, turn, stop and backup lights.
It looks like they fit pretty good.
Frank, I think I got lucky for a change. The brackets to hold them in place have slotted holes to line them up. That took a little time to figure that out. The left is on the right and vice versa. I'm not done tonight but I don't think it will take too long tomorrow to finish them up.
Today the tail lights were finished up. I put the front end on but it needs work. This is a 3/4 ton fender unit. The openings are larger than 1/2 ton. One fender appears to be longer than the other. I'm going to need to do more measuring to be sure of what's not correct. The air filter is going to be relocated but I haven't thought about it's destination yet. I put my tag on and drove it to the gas station and put a few gallons in. I modified the original front marker lights for a 2 filament bulb. The old gaskets for the cover fell out in pieces. I'm about to get enough of a list of oem parts to place what could be the last order. :) I raised up the rear about an 1.25". Now I can get a tire back on the axle without raising the body. :) I had the rear wheels off so I could work inside the fenders to mount the tail lights. The ridetech shocks have real nice machine work and adjusting them was easy. If you ever looked inside a 51 Ford pickup rear fender, you know how much room there was. :)
KB...How much of an "adventure" would it be to close up the front fender wheel openings to match the rear ???
Maybe install a wheel opening from another fender like a
big "patch panel" :idea:
The rest of the front fenders look pretty good ...
Bob ... :wink:
Bob, I've thought about this some. The pic I posted shows a little of how wide the front end is. A standard 1/2 ton fender would have clearance issues. My thought has been to close up the front and rear and maintain the clearance from the top. To do that and not turn it into a clown car will be the deal. As an example, most have seen a 50 Dodge pickup and looked at the rear fenders and said, how lackluster. I've seen several with 56 Ford rear fenders and it transformed the truck entirely. So if I can come up with a design that makes you think it belongs there, then it will happen.
I think if you closed up the front of the fender and left the back alone it might work. I would try closing it up with a similar contour to the rear of the fender but don't go as low .maybe add to the front but don't make the bottom any lower than it already is.
picture how it would look from the side if the drivers rear fender was put on pass side front .I think that sums up what I meant to say in my last post.
I'll make a cardboard pattern and tape it on so we can see what it will look like. I took some more pics of lock to lock. The outer portion of the tire is outside of the fender at both points. I'll measure how much suspension travel there is and do some calcs. to see what the worse case is.
Those of you with a good sense of humor will enjoy this. The reason the headlights don't work is (insert drum roll) the mustang switch is defective. Chalk up another one for the donor. I hope organ donors do better than this. :) I don't remember having to replace a light switch my whole life. I purchased the Ford EVM manual last week. It arrived today. I was unaware that there were separate manuals available. Had I known this was available, I would have purchased one early on in the wiring process. $24 is going to look like one of the best expenses on the project. I still have the front turn signals to make operational and all the original wiring will be complete.
self explanatory.
One of the pics is where I mounted the cruise control module. If anybody knows if this is a bad place, I'd like to hear about it. I put the hood on so I can drive it. The hood is warped and the hinges haven't been rebuilt yet so there is lots more work. I put about 5 miles on it this evening. My machine shop owner friend and I went for the ride. This goes around corners without body lean and it stops well. He's ridden in my 32. He said, this isn't as powerful but everything else is way different. :) Tomorrow, back to work.
That truck is looking really good. I don't see a problem with the cruise control location. I put one in my 48 F1 in about the same place.
I worked all weekend but you can hardly tell it. :) Saturday I spent hours working on a 51 hood that I bought that came from a field. I welded up the cracks around the lower flange and the rear of it. Some of the hood hinge fasteners have froze up and ripped the fasteners loose from the support brackets. I will deal with that later. I relocated the air filter and inlet tube to alleviate the space problems on the right side of the engine bay. I don't have the correct hose and elbows to finish it yet. I messed with front end alignment some. I'm going to make some tools as per a thread I found that looks like the answer for those of us without a good front end shop nearby. I've also been driving it. It's going to be fun. :)
I just came from the scales. The truck has a half tank of fuel. Here's the rest of what is missing:
running boards-42
running board supports-10
ac-heater-18
stereo ,amp, speakers-20
more sound deadener-14
Low e insulation-2
misc. bolts and wire-10
Finish interior with abs and rubber mat or dynadeck for the floor-?
The truck weighted 3080 lbs.
The known items-116 lbs.
total-3196 lbs.
I suppose that a person could add another 100 lbs with finishing the interior and paint. I'm also guessing the rust thats left in the fenders is an equivalent to good metal. :) It's 300 lbs. lighter than my original estimate. :)
Don't read this with a mouth full of anything. :) I was working on tailpipe hangers with the truck jacked up on all corners. I walk by the right side and the light is just right to notice that the right valve cover has a nice crack in it. The salvage yard's warranty doesn't cover valve covers or intake manifolds. I have a tube of Evercoat plastic epoxy that I bought several years ago to repair a plastic bumper that had been backed into by a hit and run driver. I know this is out of it's expected life span but I cleaned, sanded, cleaned and sanded some more on the valve cover and mixed up the epoxy and put it on. It got hot and appears to be adhering. It's ugly as you can imagine but after driving this for a while, if it has sealed properly, I will sand it down and paint it to match the flat black valve cover. I thought I was done with surprises. :)
That settles it ... The only vanity plate that will be acceptable on your truck is "SUPRISE" or "ADVENTURE".... :lol: :lol: 8)
Its looking good ....At least you're finding all these "hiccups" NOW rather than later ..... :lol:
Bob..... :wink:
Taking a break. I installed tail pipe hangers today. The bracket is nutserted into the crossmember for a 3/8" bolt and the rod is welded to the pipe. I didn't set the fuel tank on fire. :) I have the ac lines finished and the heater hoses run but not connected to the engine. All this has to come back out to allow the installation of sound deadener and insulation on the firewall. I installed sound deadener in the doors today also.
You're making great progress on eating that elephant one bite at a time.
Today I made one more seat bracket. I shot some paint on all of them. I spent hours installing sound deadener on the floor and firewall. The next item is insulation on the firewall and the wiring back in place for the last time. I ran out of energy before getting that done.
I put insulation on the firewall, back of the cab and under the seats. I ran out of material, again. :) The firewall is patchwork appearing. It has 2 layers on most of it. I can't install a large area by myself around objects before the contact glue takes a set. I can now install the wiring, ac-heater and the rest of the dash items for what should be the last last time. :)
Making a little more progress.
What type of contact cement are you using? I use a Permatex areosol cement, it is a bit more forgiving, you can reposition the padding if it hits the metal wrong. And it set up slow enough to take your time.
I bought some sponge rubber from a guy a couple miles away a few years ago, it was in two by four pieces. It works good on firewalls. I still have a couple pieces left.
Frank, the glue is Misty brand that I got from a fabric supplier. I let it flash off so when you stick it, it's finished.
The ac and heater are operational now. The pic I posted shows 35 degree air coming out of the center vent. I had just enough black abs plastic left to do the rear of the cab behind the seats. I shouldn't have to remove them after this go-round again.
Taking a break. Kick panels have been cut and fitted. Former radio hole in dash is now useful. The Mustang clock, cooling fan override, wipers and the window switches have a new home. :)
That looks nice.
Now comes all that finish work that takes forever. It's going to be one nice truck when done.
Thanks for the compliments. I have the insulation on most of the floor and roof of the cab, now. The area around the 2 harness openings is what's left.
This surely won't surprise anybody. I had to lengthen the harness to the cruise control about 12". After doing this, it doesn't work. :) I'll use the diagnostic manual this weekend to see if the unit is dead or I have a wiring problem. I'm knee deep in Dynadeck and abs plastic. If the brain and body work well, the interior will be finished by sunday evening. (no real expectations)
I can tell you the cruise switch on the brake pedal is very sensitive. I have had to tweak the bracket, or shim the switch to make them work.
Frank, I'm not proud to report that I have several circuits that are interrupted by removing the anti-theft and the keyless entry again. Once this has been remedied, maybe the cruise will work. :)
On the list of fun and games for today, I started out with shimming a right side door hinge. The flat head bolts had already rusted up! I lived through that and the door is aligned better. I worked on the hood some so it will open without hitting the cowl vent. The new hood latch is only partially finished. The hood release cable has been run and fastened. The window wiring has been run and power run to it. It isn't completely finished but there isn't alot left. The front speakers are mounted in the kick panels. The seat belts are mounted. I hope tomorrow is more productive. :)
I quit mid afternoon today. The brain was tired. The speakers are mounted at 4 corners. The amp is wired. The tan console has been turned black and a bracket made to install it. The rear speaker mounts and the console are nutserted. I decided to run new wiring to the front speakers so the kick panels will have to come out again. I bolted everything back up and it went outside. I cleaned the garage up some and went for a ride. I went 18 miles and didn't have to walk or call the fire department. :)
looking good! I especially like the un interrupted trip news .
Today ...18 Miles ...Tomorrow ...THE WORLD :!: :!: :!:
It's lookin' good KB .. 8) That Mustang can't throw anything at you that you cannot smack outa' the park :lol: :lol:
I will send my Model A to you shortly .... :lol: :lol:
Bob .... :wink:
Quote from: "kb426"I went 18 miles and didn't have to walk or call the fire department. :)
Sounds like a solid day right there!
Thanks, guys. :)
Taking a break, today I have run the wiring for the dc plug in the console, the wiring to the dome light and installed both door jamb switches, and finished the new wiring to the front speakers. Last night I started building a panel to hold the stereo unit in the glove box. I'm embarrassed at how long that took. It's as finished as it will be for a long time. The metal has some of the black abs plastic covering the bracket as much as possible. The hinges are tall and wide so there's ugly cutouts. Good thing is that the glove box will be closed most of the time. The stereo has a remote but I don't know if it will operate with the door closed or not. I had to get 2 90 degree elbows to run the ac drain back into the wiring cutout on the trans tunnel. All the wiring to the back of the cab is finished unless I build a power operated bed cover. There is a rocker switch in the console that would work well for that. I'm about to remove the seats again to install floor mat and fab a headliner. I want to do the headliner in one piece and that may not be within my skill level.
The pic of the box is 2/3's of the wire I removed from the Mustang harness. The next is ready for tomorrow. :)
Break time again.
Back together and back outside again.
Ladies and gentlemen, we have a cable operated hood latch. I purchased a cheap autoloc unit because of space problems. I'd be very selective on what I would use this on but it's satisfactory for something that doesn't incur large amounts of lift on the hood.
I took these pics after working on the deuce this evening. It's pretty busy under the hood. Is it worth spending time and money to clean it up? What does the RRT think?
The rest of the truck is so nice, of such good quality I think it will stick out if you don't spend a little time and effort prettying it up under the hood. I don't think it needs the full polish, chrome, and braided line treatment, just some color matching paint and route everything neatly.
i agree with jaybee, no need to go overboard but neat and clean is all you need.
later jim
I Agree.... Neat & clean is all that is needed.... Too much "bling" takes away from the work that has been done.. That is a VERY nice truck as is. 8)
Bob..... :wink:
you talking :" neat n clean" via a little elbow grease, paint ? Proper detail work with paint helps a bunch.
Different air intake tube & filter?
My plan was to paint the inner fenders when I finish the front end. The intake tube is as ugly as it gets. I scrubbed on it some to get to this point. The valve covers are plastic and I know that some people paint them. I don't know if it lasts well or not. I have thought about fabbing some metal covers to hide all the loomed wiring. Would hiding be the best option money wise? If a guy attached metal rods to the looms so they were straight, would that be a good option? I'm open to all suggestions on this. I'm aware that the 4.6 is not a pretty engine. Most of the modern engines are ugly by our standards of old. Cobras with weber carbs, corvettes with 3 fours, hemis with cross rams, etc.
Something you might consider is an engine cover, that incorporates the air duct. It would cover a lot of the ugly. You could do it with WZjunk's lost foam mold, and fiberglass.
Quote from: "enjenjo"Something you might consider is an engine cover, that incorporates the air duct. It would cover a lot of the ugly. You could do it with WZjunk's lost foam mold, and fiberglass.
yuuuup. I'd investigate that. If a workable situation for you.
True that modern engines are ugly compared to the old ones, but they work so well. It's convinced me engine covers are a good option, something I didn't once believe.
You could always do the same as I do with the Ugly Olds.... :idea:
I leave the hood closed & warn people that it's dirty in there when they want to see the engine... :shock: :lol: :lol:
It seems to work... 8)
Bob..... :wink:
A high pressure washing of the intake boot, some wiping down of surfaces that show, and organized routing of wiring and hoses would probably satisfy your eyes, and anyone who chooses to pick it apart can go eat worms or whatever.
Shame on the people that overlook the fabulous job you've done on parts that are meant to look nice and pick apart parts whose function is the dirty job of converting gasoline into horsepower. I seriously doubt that there will be many however.
Thanks for the comments, guys. Trust me when I say I really value the comments from this forum. Old guys that have built many things and haven't let life defeat them but has made them better are most appreciated. :) I had a thought about building a cover and having it shaped so it could have some airbrushing to look like a flathead or something cool but I don't like phony very much. I'm the guy that has the real blower, not the one with the carb inside. Clean and neat will be my goal. That may change as it will be a while before all this gets finished. It seems to take a long time to make a decision anymore. :)
I don't know about you, but in my experience I make better decisions if I don't jump in until I feel confident it's right. Sometimes that's right away, sometimes it takes a while.
I like the engine cover idea. I'm also with Ugly Olds on the closed hood. :lol:
Unless somebody twists my arm really hard the lid stays closed on the COE. Just last night at a cruise in one of those guys that bleed MOPAR just had to see under the lid. SUPRISE a CHEVY! :shock: I told him I knew he was a Mopar guy just by his smell. :)
Just tell everyone that is the original engine from the factory and you didn't want to disturb the patina!
You don't have to tell them that it was original to a late Mustang!
Those in the know, will chuckle. ....Those who aren't will be impressed!
I've been following along on this adventure and am impressed with the work you have done to this point. I also like the reliability and performance of the modern drive lines but also don't like the fact that they look like a train wreck under the hood......I am looking forward to the solution you come up with and am sure it will look great.......Keep up the good work!
I worked on the efi system today. I had a cel so I started doing diagnostics. After eliminating the most obvious that checked to be within the operating voltage ranges, I ended up swapping out the injectors. I have 3 sets of 19 lb. units. I have a set from an explorer that had about 70,000 miles on them. I removed the egr valve that had been disabled. I put a plate on to make sure there wasn't a vacuum leak. I've driven through several heat cycles. No light, yet. I'm not positive that it's all correct but I'm gaining.
I trimmed up the air filter housing and scrubbed on the inlet tube for a while. It's cleaner than it was. :) If the injectors prove to be the problem, we can chalk one more up for the mustang donor.
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"Bob, I've thought about this some. The pic I posted shows a little of how wide the front end is. A standard 1/2 ton fender would have clearance issues. My thought has been to close up the front and rear and maintain the clearance from the top. To do that and not turn it into a clown car will be the deal. As an example, most have seen a 50 Dodge pickup and looked at the rear fenders and said, how lackluster. I've seen several with 56 Ford rear fenders and it transformed the truck entirely. So if I can come up with a design that makes you think it belongs there, then it will happen.
Hey KB ...
I been chewin' on this fender thing some ...
How about closing the opening up similar to this Chevy ??
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a395/PCarps/August%202014/NSRAdsc_6736_zps9c3b482e.jpg
This is a cutout of the rear fender. The weather isn't cooperating for outside pics so this is just stuck on to give everyone an idea of where this can go. At the bottom of the cardboard front and rear, there would be around 3" to add. Bob, the chevy is headed in the right direction. Close to the tire but not covering so there is no interference.
I think I'm about 30 hours from being finished on the abs for the headliner. :)
This is the stopping point until I get more velcro. When it arrives, there will be more trimming. I'm searching for the dome light to go on the original mount and look like it belongs there.
I wasn't satisfied with all the numbers from the scanner in live feed on the efi. I replaced all the sensors and now the numbers look better. I don't know that I have everything 100% but I'm optimistic. The velcro I ordered arrived and the headliner is stuck down in the loose areas. I installed weather stripping under the bed floor panels. I'm expecting no rattles when I finish. I painted the 2 panels from the bed floor and the shift lever this afternoon. The 2 divider strips for the floor are left. I didn't think I had enough time to prep them before it got too cool to paint. The weather forecast says that I shouldn't have to worry about that after tomorrow. :)
In the spirit of spending too much time to do something, I used a leftover 7075 t6 motorplate from the top fuel car to make a mounting ring for a shifter boot. This is 1/4" alum that I machined in the lathe to the desired outer and inner dimensions. I put it in the mill and used a radius cutter to profile the inner and outer edges. I bored and countersunk the mounting holes. I dug out the sewing machine that hasn't been used for months and tried to remember how to use it. :) I used some left over black vinyl for the boot. I went out to make a video of driving it. It was too shaky so I went out to do better. The fabulous mustang donor bit me again. I now need an alternator. :)
The shift boot & ring look neat ... 8)
Do you have a list of the remaining "Mustang Parts" just in case ???
Yesterday I cleaned out a box of "left-overs" from the last donor vehicle that we stripped ..
It was a '76 Mustang II we stripped in '87 to get a front end for the Kidd's Dodge .....
I remember having him strip the car to "learn" how cars went together.. :idea:
I DO need to visit the shop attic more often ... :oops: :oops: It's amazing what's up there .. :roll:
Bob ... :wink:
Bob, off of the top of the poor memory, I have the fuel tank and pump, steering column, power steering pump, cooling fan assembly, starter, hydroboost assembly, throttle pedal and cable, throttle body assembly, and the cruise control module which isn't connected yet. All the other parts have been replaced or modified. I suppose I should be prepared. :)
The new alternator is on and I have 14.5 volts steady. The check engine light came on after driving around for about 15 minutes. I'm down to the last item to check. Fuel pressure. Holy cow! I have 70 and it should be 40. New regulator is about to be ordered. That will surely be the last time. :) As I was driving around yesterday, it was about 95 degrees. I had the ac on low and almost got cold. I wasn't doing 70 at 105 degrees but I have high hopes for that part.
The first pic is of a flare union in the return line. I found an area where a bend had collapsed for some reason around the center crossmember. I removed that and spliced in some replacement tubing. That lowered the fuel pressure to 48 lbs. I got to measuring the unions and found that they were smaller than the id of the line which is 3/16". I bored each union on the lathe to 3/16". Then the gasket on the schrader end of my fuel gauge came apart so I don't know if I'm where I need to be yet. The bed strips are painted and in. Foot prints are free. :)
This morning the brain engaged and I decided that the o-ring kit I have was the answer to the fuel pressure gauge. When I got home, I found an o-ring that was close to the size of the Schrader valve and tried it. Success! The fuel pressure problem has been fixed. I still have something going on but I haven't come to a conclusion as to what is causing it yet. I'll try not to be boring until I have the answer at which time I will post it. Note that I'm positive that I will find it. :)
I just got done running the feed and return lines on my Hemi. I am also wondering about the unions I had to use. The ones I bought connect plastic to steel lines. The plastic side has a support that fits in the I.D. of the line so you can clamp the ferrule with the nut. This greatly reduces the I.D. I also found the original Hemi fuel rail line is 3/8 push to connect on the rail and 5/16 where it connects to maybe a filter/regulator on the other end? :shock:
I will have to see if I have enough volume of fuel.
What I thought was a piece of hose in the fuel return line near the tank with factory connectors turned out to be a piece of plastic hose with rubber sleeve. It was kinked at both ends. I now have the correct fuel pressure and believe I have solved all the efi troubles. :b-d: :b-d: :b-d:
If you have to splice the plastic fuel lines into anything, you can use DOT NTA compression air fittings for plastic lines. The liner sleeve is very thin, made of stainless, and works well. They don't make 5/16" DOT fittings, but my hardware store carries a brass sleeve that will fit in 5/16" plastic tubing, and will work.
(http://cdn2.hubspot.net/hub/79679/file-27959535-jpg/images/blog/2011/compression-style-transportation-air-brake-fittings.jpg)
Thanks for the tip, Frank. That line was 8mm. I had 15" of that expensive efi hose left over from the 32 that I found last weekend when I was cleaning up. That turned out to be an easy repair. It sure wasn't easy to find. :) I went for a ride and most things are gone. There is something going on with the constant control relay module when the fan comes on. That's about the last thing that hasn't been replaced from the Mustang. I'm going to do some diagnostic work before buying one. I want to be sure I didn't do something wrong. :)
This is a short video that I took with the window down and me operating the camera. The last of it is no hands on the wheel.
Because I still haven't made the decision as to what color to paint this, I painted the running boards the Bullitt green so I can look at it for awhile to form an opinion. The rear fenders are off now for more dent removal. They're so rough that I don't have a good plan as to where to start. I guess I'll start in one corner and more around in one direction with the hammer and dolly until I think it's as good as I can get it. Then I'll coat the whole fender with plastic and keep going.
Thanks for the video and for all the great updates. The motor sounds healthy, it put a smile on my face.
This morning I got started early. I'm sure someone appreciated the noise. :) I spent 5 hours doing hammer and dolly work. I'm not good enough to make it good but now the plastic will be thin. I rolled the openings for the tail lights and fuel filler hole. I blasted them one more time and hit it with the da. I'm ready to weld in the panels where the running boards bolt on and then it's time for bondo.
Quote from: "kb426"This morning I got started early. I'm sure someone appreciated the noise. :) I spent 5 hours doing hammer and dolly work.
QuoteI'm not good enough to make it good
but now the plastic will be thin. I rolled the openings for the tail lights and fuel filler hole. I blasted them one more time and hit it with the da. I'm ready to weld in the panels where the running boards bolt on and then it's time for bondo.
My fenders will be arriving by you shortly ..... 8)
Do you have your own sandblasting setup on site ?? Back yard , etc ???
Bob .. :wink:
Bob, I use the driveway and clean up the mess afterward. It's a necessary evil to doing your own work when nobody within 200 miles offers the service.
Two more repair panels in. I'm tired of rusty metal. :(
Threw them in the vat one more time and epoxy primed.
I spent all day working on the rear fenders. I'm on the second coat of plastic. This isn't fun.
I replaced the cracked passenger side window today. Then I went back to work on the rear fenders. It's almost 6 pm and they're starting to look like fenders. I intend to get them in primer still this weekend.
This is the "mobile fender relocation device." My plan was to get them into primer today but there were too many spots that needed more work.
Finally in primer. :)
Early this morning I finished sanding the fenders and put the 2nd coat of high build primer on.
So you have bent bed rails? You need the Tool Time bed whacker 5000! This is what I made to repair the bed rails.
That looks similar to the tool I have here to straighten John Deere combine auger tubes. They bend a lot of them on trees. But mine is bigger.
We used a similar swage to true up lead sleeves we used in splicing underground power cables, only ours were made of hard maple, and a lot bigger..
How do you like my new flatbed? :lol:
Box is all apart and ready to be repaired.
I've spent the day working on bed parts. The sides and tailgate were vatted. I worked on the stake pockets and bed rails. There is welding to be done and then blasting. My plan was to sand with an 80 grit disc but it isn't going to be good enough. I'm aware that none of what I'm doing is cost effective. :lol: :lol:
Nice work on the fenders. I like the bed rail tool too. You are making good steady progress even though it seems some of the not so fun stuff is taking a long time.
Tom
A few months ago I had a discussion with a manufacturer of front end kits and the subject of rack and pinion units came up. He said all NAPA units are crap. Today I came home to a puddle in the drive. I might have 300 miles on this one. When I remove the front fenders, that will be changed out. Too cheap is just that. I would like it if manufactures would at least offer better parts for there kits. Never is good to buy it twice. :(
" It was the best of times, it was the worst of times." For those of you that have read Tale of two cities, you maybe wondering where this is going. :D Because I have no memory, I can't remember which person had left the post about his I believe 40 Ford that got an award last year that had mentioned a painter telling him what to purchase to make sure his car was straight before paint. My apologizes for not remembering your name. :oops: I bought Durablock sanding blocks last year. I'm now hand sanding just like when I was 16 years old. It is the best way that I know of to make panels straight. The airfile and da aren't as good as the blocks. I spent almost 2 hours on 1 rear fender this evening. it's better than using the airfile. Progress slow but sure! :lol:
95% prep, 5% actual painting...this is going to be nice.
3rd application of primer. Stake packets filled one one side. Front end of bedrail capped. Most cracks welded up.
My daughter trial fitting the Coupe on for size.
QuoteQuote from: "moose"My daughter trial fitting the Coupe on for size.
Looks like HER car is well on it's way ... 8)
When do you get to start on YOURS... :?: :?: :lol:
Bob.. :wink:
Another day working on bed sides. I capped the front of the bedrail and radiused the rear. None of this was good enough to metal finish. With the spot welds and cracks I welded up, there will be bondo work.
1 down, 2 to go.
This is the hard part for sure. As beat as a typical old truck is, the bed takes the worst of it.
Quote from: "kb426"" It was the best of times, it was the worst of times." For those of you that have read Tale of two cities, you maybe wondering where this is going. :D Because I have no memory, I can't remember which person had left the post about his I believe 40 Ford that got an award last year that had mentioned a painter telling him what to purchase to make sure his car was straight before paint. My apologizes for not remembering your name. :oops: I bought Durablock sanding blocks last year. I'm now hand sanding just like when I was 16 years old. It is the best way that I know of to make panels straight. The airfile and da aren't as good as the blocks. I spent almost 2 hours on 1 rear fender this evening. it's better than using the airfile. Progress slow but sure! :lol:
If it was me, the product in question is 3M Dry Guide Coat.It's a finely ground black powder you apply w/the furnished applicator sponge, being dry you don't have to wait for it to dry & it doesn't load up your sandpaper like rattle can black paint.
papastoyss, I bought some of that. I wasn't close enough to need it yet. :lol:
3 of 3 . I'm done blasting for the day. 6 hours start to finish.
Mission accomplished. Primer applied.
If you keep up this pace you will be done with the body work by the end of the month. :) That the hardest part of the project in my opinion.
After 2 applications of high build primer, most of the scratches are filled. Slow going.
I worked on the bed sides all week after work. I have them in primer again but I can see they need more work.I'm pretty sure I used to be faster at this. :)
Ladies and Gentlemen, we have some color! The good news is that the bugs didn't arrive until after I finished. It will have to be sanded and buffed so the bugs are not a problem.
I was wrong. The bugs didn't sand out. Another repaint is on the way. :(
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"I was wrong. The bugs didn't sand out. Another repaint is on the way. :(
Gee KB .. That's the wrong way to achieve that "Hard Shell Finish".. :P :lol:
Bob... :wink:
The PPG magazine for jobbers is called " The Repaint Reporter". I told the guys at the parts store that they may have my pic in next months issue! :lol: :lol:
Fenders without insects. Orange peel will be dealt with later.
orange
How do you like my heated outdoor paint booth? :lol:
Maybe the last coat of primer.
The "debugged" fenders look good .. 8)
You really can get a "baked on finish" in that booth , huh :?: :?: :lol:
Bob... :wink:
I won't tell you it's real good but it sure is white. :lol: :lol:
Back to nekkid. Some of the clear on the cab yellowed so it's getting a repaint.
Anyone thats done rusty bolt removal understands these pics. I give credit to the old days, though, not 1 of these 5/16" fine thread bolts broke! :lol:
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"Anyone thats done rusty bolt removal understands these pics. I give credit to the old days, though, not 1 of these 5/16" fine thread bolts broke! :lol:
See what can happen when you use "non-Mustang" stuff ??
Of course you plan to clean & re-use them, correct :?: :?:
( I was just thinking of ways to help the paint "budget"... :P )
Bob..... :wink:
Bob, I installed them in the dumpster. I won't be tempted at all. :lol: :lol:
Fresh from the engine vat. After the cab is resprayed, metal work will be next.
Almost ready for tomorrow.
lets hope for no bugs!
The cab is white. There was one bug that landed on the top of the passenger door. He's not a problem. It needs sanding and buffing but it's going to wait a while.
Happiness is a good refection! :lol:
Nice job! );b(
);b( looking good
Ladies and gentlemen, meet the milk truck, coming to see you soon. :lol:
Little more progress.
That's really coming together now. All your hard work is turning into one really nice truck.
I just finished replacing the steering R&P that failed after about 300 miles. The good news is that with the front fenders off, it wasn't too bad.
That is coming together very nicely.
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"I just finished replacing the steering R&P that failed after about 300 miles. The good news is that with the front fenders off, it wasn't too bad.
WAIT :!: :!:
The rack can't fail .....It's not an "Original Mustang Part" ... :roll: :lol:
Warranty :?: :idea:
Bob ..
Bob, that rack was part of the front end kit purchased almost 2 years ago. It was a NAPA rebuilt. It looked so poor that I won't buy anymore NAPA rebuilt anything. I installed a Cardone that so far is ok. It appears that the Mustang disease maybe spreading. :lol:
I've been working on the front sheet metal the last couple of evenings. The grille has been straightened but not finished. The pics are of the upper fenders after the inners were removed and the rust spots removed. I'm going to throw them in the vat before I do anymore cutting.
Boy O Boy ... More bolts & screws being deposed of instead of being reused... :roll:
There goes the budget ........ :shock:
You are still going to "close up" the wheel opening as was discussed before..Correct :?:
Bob... :wink:
Bob, the weather will determine when that will be done. If it cools down enough that I can't paint, I'll put white epoxy on all the front and assemble everything so I can drive it all winter. After the summer being wetter than it has been for several years, the prognosticators are calling for early, cold and wet.
Quote from: "kb426"Bob, that rack was part of the front end kit purchased almost 2 years ago. It was a NAPA rebuilt. It looked so poor that I won't buy anymore NAPA rebuilt anything. I installed a Cardone that so far is ok. It appears that the Mustang disease maybe spreading. :lol:
I have some bad news for you. Napa's reman parts line of steering products is built by Cardone. I found this out a few years ago when I was trying to get a motorhome chassis specific power steering pump rebuilt. We had to send the pump to Cardone to see if they could rebuild it. We sent it through our local Napa store to them.
Fat Cat, I'm hoping that there is more than 1 level of rebuild from Cardone. The one out of the NAPA box was glass beaded and rough looking. The 1 out of the Carquest- Cardone box is powder coated and the inner tie rods are gold irridated. This project hasn't been filled with luck but maybe it's time for a change. :lol:
Tonight was more rust removal on the lower fenders. All these parts are going to be vatted and maybe blasted before anything else happens.
Fresh from the vat and ready for about another 100 hours of work. :lol:
Once again I'm embarrassed by how slow my progress is. I have 4 of the 8 repairs done on the front fenders. The pics are of the lowers. Because of the reinforcement panels on the back side, it was difficult to do a real good repair.
you get way more finished than I do.. those shoes need a good cleaning :lol:
KB I think you are right you need more practice . Just to be helpful I will send you my model T fenders so that you can get better before doing yours. :lol: :lol: .
QuoteQuote from: "chimp koose"KB I think you are right you need more practice . Just to be helpful I will send you my model T fenders so that you can get better before doing yours. :lol: :lol: .
Chimp....Your T fenders are right in line BEHIND my "A" fenders ..... :twisted: :lol: :lol:
We work in alphabetical order here ..."A" comes before "T"..( In MOST cases) ... :shock: :shock: :lol:
Oh ...Ahh.... KB ...You thought that I missed the bolts in that last little pile , huh :?: :?
Remember...Every bolt saved is a little more primer that can be used ... :idea:
Bob... :wink:
I was going to get a little work done today. BUT, I had to clean my shoes, mess with bolts and build fixtures to do T and A fenders! :D :lol:
1 done and 1 to go. What a PITA!
No. 2 is patched. I sanded on them some with a 240 grit disc and then an 80 grit in some areas. I think I'll have to blast them to have them real good.
I spent the evening sanding on the front end parts. A couple of days with a hammer and dolly will make them better. They aren't straight as were the rear, the dents aren't as deep. :lol: :lol:
I spent 2 hours with an assortment of hammers and dollies on the lower fenders this evening. The dents are more like ripples now. :lol: I don't think I will be able to metal finish them. I'm moving on to the next step in the operation.
I started playing with shrinking disk repairs. I'm working on the lower fenders. There are spots I made good progress and areas that weren't so good. One more skill to learn! :lol:
They say you can't have too many tools, but that's especially true of bodywork tools, isn't it?
Blasting away! What could be more fun on a nice fall afternoon. :) The shot of the fender is in progress. I should get the rest of the front sheet metal blasted today. In case anyone is curious, I have purchased 60 bags of blasting material. I think I have enough to finish the hood. I don't want to let anyone think I know much about blasting so I maybe wasting as I go.
I thought that you recycled your sand :?:
Remember the budget :!: :!: :!: :!:
Bob........
:wink:
Bob, the budget has gone the way of the US budget. :) I ran 8 bags today. I just finished up and have cleaned up the mess. I'm about to be tired.
I think you are using too abrasive of a sand . It may result in warpage if you continue .Since you bought so much of it may I suggest a simple solution . My suggestion is that I send you my T fenders and you use the aggressive sand on them FIRST and then the sand will be worn down sufficiently to allow you the peace of mind to blast away at your stuff without fear of warping . I only suggest this as my fenders are made of heavier material that would be best used to break down the aggressive sand you currently have . :lol: :lol: :lol:
CK, once again I truly appreciate your compassion to help me avoid the pitfalls in the project life. However, the 60 bags has been all used up so I shall respectfully decline your wonderful offer to have me blast your T parts. :lol:
I really don't like blasting but I sure do like how the metal looks when it's been blasted. I'm trying to do the prep work the best it can be so I don't have any hindsite errors.
Good thing you didn't find those bags of sand in the parts mustang or it would have broken the sandblaster.
I bought some evaporust and will try it soon . I hear the trick is to cover it with plastic wrap after applying so it does not dry out .I tried that plastic wrap trick with 3M safest stripper before with excellent results for paint removal on my Anglia .
CK, there is a 55 gal. drum of evaporust at the machine shop. I used it to clean smaller parts but never sheet metal. Most of the stuff is left over night and comes out way better than when it went in.
I have read that if you put it on paper towels and cover with saran wrap it works for large surfaces . When I paint stripped my Anglia that way I would remove saran and the paint would come off with it , the little that stayed would come off with a plastic window scraper . I am just about to finish my steering and then it is on to the body , floorpans etc.
Quote from: "kb426"CK, there is a 55 gal. drum of evaporust at the machine shop. I used it to clean smaller parts but never sheet metal. Most of the stuff is left over night and comes out way better than when it went in.
Quotequote]
Do you think my A fenders will be noticed in the drum. :?: :idea:
Bob.......... :wink:
Bob, after I cut them up so they fit, I don't think anybody will notice. :lol:
I've spent the last 2 evenings welding cracks that I didn't see before blasting and pounding on dents. I need another month of warm weather and I'm pretty sure that isn't going to happen. The hood has 2 rust spots that arrived after blasting. I'm going to make plates to fill the openings at the front. Just more work. :lol:
Quote from: "kb426"Bob, after I cut them up so they fit, I don't think anybody will notice. :lol:
Gee KB...........Don't forget... The front fenders on the Ugly Olds were made from 6 "Donors"........ :idea:
Bob.... :wink:
Just in case anyone thinks I'm not working. :lol: Notice I didn't say "making progress".
Break time. Front of the hood filled and the 2 rust repairs on the brace area.
So that's what clean metal looks like ! I guess I better just keep grinding!
CK, without blasting, I wouldn't have any metal left. I don't know how bad yours is but is blasting not an option for you?
Epoxy primer wherever I could shoot it. This is rust preventive. Some of the parts will have to be flipped in the next day or so and the other side shot.
KB the T body has rust everywhere but mostly just surface. I will be knocking it down with a wire wheel and doing por15 on all the under side and interior sides of the body. This thing is actually pretty intact . indoor storage for 30+ years. I am going to need to replace DS rear wheel well and patch PS . Cowl bottom on PS needs a patch and that is about it.About 1/2 of the body shell is still in original paint or primer.
TLU! (totally lackluster update), I primed the other side of all the front end sheet metal this evening. Ho Hum.
I wouldn't tell you this was a good decision but this is what I did. The grille and inner fender panels have been shot in gray. The grille will have to be redone next year when it warms up. The rest of the front sheet metal was in white epoxy primer. I have some left over clear that is the less expensive kind I've used. I wanted to seal the primer from moisture and fingerprints so I shot clear over the primer. I'm reasonably sure this will protect the parts till next year when all the body work will be completed. I will be doing double work but I didn't have any real good options. I needed at least 1 more month to do the work on the front and then paint it. The temp is cool enough at night that the paint won't completely cure. I caught a warm day and shot everything. The truck is going back together very soon.
It was time to put the truck back in the shop this evening. I had noticed an oil leak on the left valve cover. Out in the sun, I found this crack. I cleaned, sanded and repaired with Evercoat plastic epoxy. This is the same stuff I used on the right cover. I'm guessing the salvage yard people got a little careless with the chains when removing the engine. I'll keep my eye out for valve covers but the used stockers seem to bring at least $75. I'd like to spend way less than that.
Tiny bit of progress today. I removed a little bit of ugly in the brake dept. This was the first time to use my OTC metric bubble flair tool. I'm really happy with the bubble flairs. :) I bolted on the fenders and the grille. If this is the milk truck and the front is still in primer, does that make it half and half? :lol:
Stopping point for the day. Running boards installed. They are Dark Highland Green which was the first color choice I had. The wiring in front of the core support is cleaned up a little.
amazing what a difference some paint makes ,awesome work 8)
At least somebody is getting something done. :D KB your truck is really looking good. I still need to get the tailgate of the wagon in primer. Got the cruise control unit in and resolved a problem with it. Started it up and let it run and fixed a coolant leak and a leaking oil sending unit.
Made a decision Friday to have the driveway done in asphalt millings. I wish I was closer to the road. :shock: Any way it is happening Monday and Tuesday. I needed to bring in about $1000.00 of gravel anyway. No more dirty tires. Neighbors will assist with some of the cost because the drive is an easement. Ill have to stay busy all winter to recover the my part of the cost.
I asked the wife for her checkbook and got shut right down :? Oh well back to the regular scheduled programming. :)
Looking good KB. I like the grill and wheel color with the white.
Looks great KB... Installing the running boards really enhances the look... 8)
Did you ever decide how to close up the front fender wheel openings :?:
Are you ready for my fenders yet :?:
Just remind that other guy that side work is alphabetical. ( "A before T" ). :lol: :lol:
Bob... :wink:
Bob, I'm not planning on doing anything serious to the front fenders until next spring when it warms up. I will keep an eye open for 1/2 ton fenders.
I'm not ready for your fenders yet but I may have to use the Chinese alphabet method of right to left. :lol:
Or age before beauty , mines a '26 ! Actually started disassembling this one the other day . Doors have been on for 90 years and don't seem to want to let go . What a PITA . I will be drilling and re tapping a few holes for sure .
Sanded and buffed on the doors this evening. Needs more work. :lol:
There's a profile shot without obstacles and a shot of the door without enough light to see everything.
Lookin good. Nice door gaps and overall sitting right. Can't quite like the big truck front fenders though. Maybe the young guns with the slammed look will go for it. And appreciate your updates, keeps us all motivated to get something done.
zzebby, next year the front fenders will be addressed. The last 2 days after work, I removed the running boards and sanded them. My wife told me to paint them gray so that's the plan. The weekend weather might be good enough to get them done early enough for them to dry properly. :)
Running boards and rear fender braces turned gray. I killed 5 flies and 1 yellow jacket before starting. I called that a beginning. I don't think there is anything but some dust in the paint.
Stopping point today. I worked on the hood some more. I'm going to have to cut out the previous repair to make it useable. I shot some epoxy and a coat of clear on it and threw it on the truck. Nothing has been adjusted so it fits even half close. The rear fender braces are installed and the running boards are back on. If winter arrives wednesday, I'm as ready as I can be. :)
That truck has attitude ! I love the stance.
Thanks for all the comments, guys. I'll try to find some interesting parts to build in the next few weeks while tying up some loose ends.
What Mr. koose said. That's one fine F1.
Oh yeah, I like the way that one sits.
I like those trucks and didn't really know it until we got one in the shop recently. They look great and your build is getting to the funner end so I hope you've enjoyed the project all along. Pretty sure you'll enjoy it next warm weather plenty. Need to read more of this thread some time, its interesting. Heres the red one we just did, haven't got a decent pic yet and I didn't touch the job but I think the truck sure is a looker.
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab345/drivejunk/other%20stuff%202/IMG_7335_zps5zq6xo2t.jpg) (http://s878.photobucket.com/user/drivejunk/media/other%20stuff%202/IMG_7335_zps5zq6xo2t.jpg.html)
Minor update. My brake is 48". To make a roll pan, I would need at least another 2 inches. I was out of sheet metal and the supplier 50 miles away was also out. I ordered a roll pan and this pic is the roughed in shot. I hope to have a painted pic by sunday night. :)
I know you already have your roll pan but just a tip--I also only have a four foot brake but on my F100 and my Astro van I made the roll pans in 2 pieces with a license pocket in the center.
Your truck is looking great!!
A Store Bought Part :shock: :shock: :?: :?: :roll: :roll:
Oh , The Shame ...... :( :( :lol:
I like Diggers idea .. :idea: 8)
Bob.... :wink:
Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"A Store Bought Part :shock: :shock: :?: :?: :roll: :roll:
Bob.... :wink:
The one from the Mustang broke down.
Most of today's work is self explanatory. :) Thanks for all the comments!
Ho hum. More white parts. Not clear coated yet.
Just wondering if you have ever got snow blind when painting all that white . I painted a dodge colt many years ago in a well lit booth and nearly hit the car with the gun at one point . It got so bright in there it was hard to judge distance . Just as I was using up the last of the paint I realised I had not painted the gas filler door that was hanging on the wall. JUST had enough to cover
CK, all the time. :) The only time I can really see is outside in the sun. That really doesn't correspond with painting in my area.
I think I'm done painting until spring. :D
More boring white parts.
You cant be finished yet ! Where are the freak drops and lace over "flake ? :lol:
CK, I did all that back in 1970. I don't plan on going back anytime soon. I have gravitated towards clean and simple. :)
Bob, I don't have a great answer for the store bought parts except next summer they may get replaced with real parts. :lol:
QuoteBob, I don't have a great answer for the store bought parts except next summer they may get replaced with real parts. :lol:[/quote
Sounds OK ... Just try to avoid anything that says "Mustang" .. :idea: You don't seem to have very much luck in that area .... :roll: :lol:
My first street rod , ( A '40 Ford 4-Door sedan), was painted the same "bright white" color ....It immediately was dubbed the "Kelvinator" .... :?
Bob ... :wink:
Honey, does this make my b**t look big? :lol:
Break time. I had some race car parts left over to use.
I spent way too much time on this. The plates were all machined to length in the mill. The round extensions on the tabs were 3/8" nuts that I turned down and bored. They're shot with spray can paint to avoid rust.
I LIKEY!
clean simple
later jim
I have the tag back on and a temporary light. Tomorrow I plan on installing the outside mirrors. I'm back to drivable!
Today I removed the tag bracket and shot spray can paint on it. I installed the outside mirrors and gave it a bath. Paint and body is done till next year. I have lots of other stuff to attend to. :D I cleaned the shop some so I can start finding a place to store some of the stuff I've been using.
Looking good!!!!!
"Store bought parts"..... :?: "Spray Can Paint".. :?: :roll:
KB ...You are slippin' .....Grab Hold Quick :!: :!:
Oh yea ... The truck looks neat .. Gotta schedule that front fender "repair" for the spring project list though ..... :idea: 8)
Bob............ :wink:
Bob, at least it was really good spray paint! :)
I'm really hoping to find a good set of fenders and a hood before then. While I was shooting pics from the front, I realized why people pancake the hood. There maybe more work added to the list.
Pancake the hood ? alter wheel openings ? Next thing you know out comes the metal flake , lace paint and freak drops ! Hey , good idea ! :P :lol:
QuoteQuote from: "chimp koose"Pancake the hood ? alter wheel openings ? Next thing you know out comes the metal flake , lace paint and freak drops ! Hey , good idea ! :P :lol:
Can you still get metal flake in spray cans :?: :P :lol: :lol:
Bob..... :wink:
The way they do flake these days is to blow it dry on to wet paint and bury it under clear. There is a special gun to do it . Many youtube videos on the topic . There is also a thread on the hamb about flake , lace etc . that I try to stay away from as it just makes my condition worse ! probably 60 pages or more of mouthwatering candy and flake jobs .
here we go!
http://www.sevensinschoppers.com/FLAKE_CANS_ROTH_RATTLE_BOMB_CHOOSE_COLOR_p/roth-rbomb-flake.htm
:lol:
I should stop wasting space on your post with this obsession with metalflake ! My kids find it funny as they sat in the truck with me as I followed a bass boat out to the lake once that had fingernail sized flake paint . Its kind of like the stuff puts me into some kind of 70's hippie trance . There must be a support group for this .Maybe I was a low rider in another life .
CK, the entertainment is good. :)
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"CK, the entertainment is good. :)
Besides CK... If we don't keep KB on his toes & up to date with the latest trends, who will :?: :?: :roll: :lol:
Bob... :wink:
looks good. Clean shoes. Buy a larger heater for the work shop
Today's projects: I redid the loom going to the rear of the truck. It was sagging between clamps so I added some reinforcement to it. I made some splash shields to protect the engine compartment from tire debris. I need some soft rubber to close up the gaps around the suspension still.
Tony, those shoes were beyond cleaning. The left one was worn from shifting the cycle for the life of the shoe. I did the best thing for them. They have been moved to painting only duty. :) I have a large enough heater in the shop but it's attached to the house and I can't keep all the fumes out from the house. Whenever the house heater comes on, it appears to create a vacuum and pulls fumes in. In order not to kill my wife, I only paint when I can manage the fumes. :)
Quote from: "kb426"Tony, those shoes were beyond cleaning. The left one was worn from shifting the cycle for the life of the shoe. I did the best thing for them. They have been moved to painting only duty. :) I have a large enough heater in the shop but it's attached to the house and I can't keep all the fumes out from the house. Whenever the house heater comes on, it appears to create a vacuum and pulls fumes in. In order not to kill my wife, I only paint when I can manage the fumes. :)
OK, get safer heater. :!:
Sunday evening, I had a fuel pump failure. Because the mustang has been less than wonderful, that is what my first thought was. Turned out to be a short in the wiring. There is a step down joint in the factory harness behind the engine. The fuel pump wire was close enough that when you ran over a bump, it moved. It has a tiny abrasion but as you all know, that's all it takes. I have that harness tied to everything to prohibit movement but I sure failed there. Tomorrow I will wrap the wire and make a boot for that area to completely insulate it. With no surprises about an hour will have everything put back together for maybe the last last time. :lol:
.......and THEN the mustang pump will fail . I hope not , but with how that parts car has been for a donor , we will wait and see.
I bought a new pump. I'm going to wait a few weeks before installing it just to minimize the changes that have been done while the wiring was repaired. I decided I didn't trust it either. :)
Wiring problem has been repaired and double wrapped. Back on the road again. :)
Digging the splash shields, a trailer queen would not have those! Overall I like the whole truck, it looks just right to me. Hope you have no more un-fun pump wire suprises.
Too cold to paint but not to cold to change things you don't like. The first pic is of the lower radiator hose. Quick and easy. I wasn't comfortable with that many splices. I had a rubber reducer bushing in it also. When I cleaned up the shop, I found some 1.75" j-bends that I hadn't completely used up. There was enough material for me to replace the center section and remove the reducer bushing. One end is 1.5" welded to the 1.75". I think I'm headed in the right direction. :)
Good job on the radiator pipe. I know there are VERY good reasons to use those flexible corrugated water lines, but I smile and nod to see someone took a little bit of extra effort by building a line just to fit the car.
Now it needs metalflake paint and back in the truck !
Be prepared, C.K. ! :)
KB,
That is exactly how I hooked up the radiator in the COE. The only hose is at the radiator and the engine. My tubing is about 4 foot long. :shock:
QuoteQuote from: "348tripower"KB,
That is exactly how I hooked up the radiator in the COE. The only hose is at the radiator and the engine. My tubing is about 4 foot long. :shock:
Ah.....Nah.... I'll leave it alone ....... :roll:
Bob.. :wink:
One more little item. I replaced the dome light with one from a 93 Dodge intrepid. This one is switchable. Try not to fall asleep. :)
There will be more work on the headliner when I get an idea on how to finish it.
Quote from: "kb426"One more little item. I replaced the dome light with one from a 93 Dodge intrepid. This one is switchable. Try not to fall asleep. :)
There will be more work on the headliner when I get an idea on how to finish it.
93 Dodge, huh? Watch for when it falls off.
Gee, Frank, it's a good thing I used that high quality Mustang wiring to connect it. That way it won't fall completely off. :)
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"Gee, Frank, it's a good thing I used that high quality Mustang wiring to connect it. That way it won't fall completely off. :)
Installed with more Mustang parts :?: Does it work :?: :?:
Wait ...It's only been a day or two ...... :roll: :roll:
Bob.. :wink:
KB have you thought about doing a headliner with the fiberglass resin over a sweater like enjenjo's post about doing speaker boxes ? You could spray glue it and cover with some type of cloth . You could also make it pop in and out with clips like on door panels . That way it would be easier to replace the mustang wires when they short out :wink:
Sorry , I just had to say it , at least you didn't use the mustang dome light.
QuoteQuote from: "chimp koose"Sorry , I just had to say it , at least you didn't use the mustang dome light.
Perhaps it didn't work "on arrival" :?:
WAIT .. That was a convertible .... Maybe the dome light only worked during the day :?: :?: :roll:
Bob... :wink:
Quote from: "chimp koose"KB have you thought about doing a headliner with the fiberglass resin over a sweater like enjenjo's post about doing speaker boxes ? You could spray glue it and cover with some type of cloth . You could also make it pop in and out with clips like on door panels . That way it would be easier to replace the mustang wires when they short out :wink:
High strength hook and loop :D
Quote from: "chimp koose"KB have you thought about doing a headliner with the fiberglass resin over a sweater like enjenjo's post about doing speaker boxes ? You could spray glue it and cover with some type of cloth . You could also make it pop in and out with clips like on door panels . That way it would be easier to replace the mustang wires when they short out :wink:
with large metal flake
You guys are GREAT!!! :)
I have a few things to add. I kept having trouble with the Speedhut speedo going crazy when you would hit a bump at real slow speed. I sent it back and they updated it. Same thing. I had the wiring going to it off 3 times and didn't find anything. I tied the harness up so the only way it could move was if the engine fell out. :) I emailed them a few weeks ago and they suggested that I send it in and they would change it to the gps version. I had nothing to lose so off it went. I was apprehensive because of signal drop outs. They suggest you install the receiver on the roof. Not going to happen. :) It's on the dash right next to the windshield in the middle. So far it's working. It has normal gps functions like time, altitude, max speed and it has 0-60 mph and 1/4 miles times. Driving off normal it says I ran 15.25 at 91.2 mph. The mph is about what I would expect from my 260hp. engine. I'd like to think it will run 14's with some effort and traction. This morning as I was going across town and running through a dip, this awful noise occurred. I looked in the mirror and saw something bounce off the pavement. I stopped and found a 4" piece of 3/4" tubing. I was puzzled for a bit and then guessed that it might be a swaybar link. When I got back to the shop I found a broken link. The first pic is of the manufactuer supplied all thread. It was run inside the 3/4" tubing as a spacer. The next pic is 2 3/4" bolts that I cut off and bored and threaded for replacements. It's all back together so we'll see if I improved it or there is still a problem lurking. :)
It almost looks like the bar went 'over-center" & over stressed the link .. :?:
Most 80'-90's GM 4X4 trucks do that often but somehow the bolts don't break .. They get installed straight, but one good trip around the block & they return with the bolt bent at a 45* angle at the bar connection.. :?
They then stay in that position & rust until they match everything else on the front of the truck requiring removal with a saws-all..... :evil:
I started using long grade 8 bolts in mine a long time ago....They seem to hold up well ... :idea:
Was that a Mustang "replacement part" :?: Do you think that word might be spreading :?:
Bob.. :wink:
Sway bar links...I buy the least expensive ones I can find with nice washers and poly bushings and throw the bolts and tubes in a box and make my own to length with grade 8 bolts and 3/8 ID tubing. I eventually use some of the left overs.
Bob, that was the manufacturer supplied toilet flush valve handle , I think. :) Charlie, if they had used 3/8" id tubing, it might not have been able to bend and then break. I'm not willing to try that again and see if that is a correct theory. I believe your use of the links would be a good way to go. Without the spacer, it should be free to pivot how ever needed. I have no idea what the logic was for the supplied parts. I took my wife to lunch today 50 miles away. It was her first real ride in it. When we got home, I asked if it passed the test. She said "absolutely". It has so many more creature comforts than the 32 that this is a real deal. So once again: it's the wife's hotrod! :)
New tail pipes. These are under the axle. I was going to paint them but couldn't find any high temp metalflake. :)
QuoteNew tail pipes. These are under the axle. I was going to paint them but couldn't find any high temp metalflake. Smile
Paint them wit Eastwood high temp nickle, and sprinkle glitter on them. :twisted:
You think that will make Chimp Koose happy? :lol:
Quote from: "kb426"You think that will make Chimp Koose happy? :lol:
He'll get used to it.
It will do. Just don't use that paint if you found that can of it in the trunk of the mustang
That wasn't paint in the Mustang Chimp..... It was "restore in a can" .... :?
It worked , didn't it :?: :?: :shock:
Bob... :wink:
Slow news day. Is that better than no news day? I have installed the gas springs for the hood. Sun visors are installed. Door panels roughed in. Lots of finish work on them left.
What's the status on the Hydro-Boost :?: :?:
Bob.. :wink:
It's still working. It's just a small seep around that plug. I'm going to keep driving it until it gets worse. I drove it everyday this week and the Dakota set in the drive. There's many things that I like about this truck. :)
I worked on the door panels some more today. Unless I have a better idea, this is about where they will be. Low maintenance all the way. :) I made a new panel for the rear of the headliner. It may get some more work as time goes by. I put an emblem on the dash to mess with all the people that believe all hot rods have a 350 chevy in them. This is a clone of the fender emblem on AC Cobra's.
I had my tailpipes turn down under rear axle on my 40 just like that. The sound reflects off of the pavement into the car. Sound like your driving in a big oil can especially with not enough insulation.
Had the muffler shop redo the exhaust last year and ran both pipes to the back but stopped about 6 inches short with about a 45 angle. You can't see the pipes unless you get down on the ground.
Much quieter ride now.
Nice work
40, I'm using Walker stock style mufflers. There's not much noise. Do you think that a truck is different in the way the sound waves carry as compared to a bodied car?
KB ..What was the OE application on the mufflers that you used ??
I am looking for something "quiet" for my A.. NO rumble /rap / etc ...
Bob ... :wink:
Bob, I'll have to go digging for the invoice. It's friday and my memory has left the building with Elvis. :)
He'll come back if you leave out a plate of little peanut butter and 'nanner sammiches. :wink:
KB, your truck thread is like a breath of fresh air. Its so... sensible and neat. It must be a joy to have and drive. :)
idrivejunk, thank you for the comment. I've been driving it everyday for sometime. It's not perfect and the hood and front fenders aren't done which means I 'm staring at one of the ugliest hoods in history but it's really great. :)
Bob, half way through a real thick folder of invoices I found Walker 17613. That number is for 2.25" turbo style mufflers. I know there's cheap and won't last forever but they are quiet unless you're on it in which case they sound ok. It's not the sound I expected. It's better. :)
Here's a sound clip to give you an idea of the mufflers. I tossed the camera into the seat so it's nothing special.
Sounded like you had 'lift off' at about the last 3 seconds. 8) Nice sound.
Thank you, George.
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"Here's a sound clip to give you an idea of the mufflers. I tossed the camera into the seat so it's nothing special.
Thanks KB .. That's kinda what I am after ... 8) No drone going down the highway :?: :?: Tail pipes almost out the back may even be quieter .... :idea:
Thanks ...
Bob ... :wink:
There's no drone, almost no noise. That's a 6.5' bed and the pipes exit about 1' before the roll panel.
Sounds good to me 8)
Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"KB ..What was the OE application on the mufflers that you used ??
I am looking for something "quiet" for my A.. NO rumble /rap / etc ...
Bob ... :wink:
I've used Dynomax "Super Turbo" mufflers on several cars, They're quiet, free flowing & cheap.Downside is they're so quiet people don't hear you when cruising around an event & they will step out in front of you.
This can't surprise anybody who's read this. I've been diagnosing the failure of the cruise control to work. I had tried another unit, switches and traced wiring. I finally found a voltage test at the harness plug where it feeds into the servo. After messing around, I have found the clock spring cooperates when It wants to. Now I have to decide if I want to spend another $80 or take the new switches and build a remote mount and bypass the the clock spring. :)
I believe the ignition switch is about all that hasn't been replaced.
When all else fails, for cruise control theres the old stick against bench seat trick :wink:
Kids don't try this at home :lol:
Ahhhhh.......Was this clockspring thingie a Mustang part :?: :?: :roll:
Bob.... :wink:
You know it was ! :lol:
Should have changed the M for a B , bustang!
KB ...Just a thought .... :idea:
Have you ever approached the previous owner about the "warranty" on that car :?: :?: :lol:
Ya never know ..... :idea:
Bob.. :wink:
Today I took a serious look at the 51 hood that I bought 3 years ago. It has damage in all the wrong places. I considered repairing it until I put it on 3 jack stands to work on it and discovered it has a serious twist in it. I cut a panel out of the same area that is poor on the truck. I put the panel in the rust vat for the night and tomorrow I'll see if there's enough metal to use it. I'm not real optimistic about the outcome.
This is today's stopping point. I have to decide if this piece is worth making a repair panel out of or just a pattern to make a new panel. The pics will show the damage on the panel. I welded up some holes and ground on them some. First time for using .040's tungsten. I bought some a few months ago knowing that I would work on some real thin metal soon.
I fixed a hood one time that had more than 100 Pin holes rusted through it. It took forever. Then shrinking it back flat again.
I think if you consider the time involved, a new replacement hood (even though it will need work too) might make you a lot happier. While fixing, and while enjoying to infinity. I see they are a little over $500. That would not be a sin in my opinion, to shop for them at this point. Save up instead of slave-ing up. Because no matter what, if you use what you got, it will be a mess. Don't get me wrong... I bet you're plenty capable. But yeah, pick battles you can win. The existing panel on it now would have to be SO, SO bad for me to want to patch in either a fabbed or repaired hood section that size. Its as big as Kansas and kinda shaped the same.
Woops nope, I was looking at the wrong hood and flapping my gums about something I obviously haven't a clue about. Surfed up the wrong thing, but now I get that they are made of unobtanium. Arg. Any fresh thoughts on what to do? Need alternative repair method ideas? I think I need more pics to :shock: at.
I jumped of the elevator without a parachute today. I'm going to try again before I give up on this hood. 1 pic is of the panel that has been run through the roller. The other is the area I cut out of the hood. Tomorrow I will know if I wasted my time or not. :)
I think you'll be able to make that patch work much better. :)
Looked back on the first attempt and all I can say is Go forth and make dots, KB! Will you use TIG this time also? I only tried it once so far and it takes a steadier hand than mine. :oops:
Matt, I haven't used anything but tig for better than 20 years. Now I'm old and can't see. :) I just ran out of argon but you can see some progress.
That looks a LOT better than the first go-around did. :D
I would have a metal yardstick out there next to me so I could kinda gauge it in between welds when fully cooled. Almost looks like the outside edge is trying to draw inward a little. But if you straightedge it, you can catch that and correct it with a hammer as you go, much better than trying to get it all stitched up then grind and dolly it flat. Beats trying to 100% eyeball it in my book.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the hood is not supported as it would be hanging on the truck. On sawhorses it may be flexed a little just sitting there.
My eyes are acting their age too. Don't make it easier. Get some gas and make us proud. Looks like the panel fits perfect.
End of the day. There is a brace that the hinges and springs attaches to that isn't removable. Not being able to work properly over it causes grief! I have some shrinking to do and some hammer and dolly work but it's better than it was. The small patch is a rusty area that I had decided to forget. I never expected this to be bondo free but it won't have any deep spots. The whole hood and front fenders are going to need bondo from one end to the other.
I think that's OK to hand in to the teacher 8) Nice day's work! :D
Thank you. I sun was coming in and I see, those are poor pics!
Looks good to me ... 8) Are you ready for my A fenders :?: :?: :lol:
Bob.. :wink:
I made a t-bar to bolt to some of the hood hinge pins and clamp to the front of the hood to facilitate holding it while sanding. I hammer and dollied some more areas and am ready to start sanding again.
I spent a lot of today working on the hood. I hammered and dollied on the last repair some more. I put the hood on the truck for a test fit. The brace at the back is bent some and I don't think I can bend it without causing more problems. It makes the hood wide at the cowl at the bottom. I started to fill the side vents by bending the metal back flat. That proved to be a poor idea. I ended up cutting out both sides and making panels to fill the area. One is tacked in before I quit today.
I can think of two trucks where I solved the wide brace problem with tiny slices in the brace. Both got big print articles when done so I don't think anybody minds if you do it that way.
Matt, that is an option. I'm not sure what is bent yet. When I figure that out, then I'll have to get a plan of action.
Today's work was finishing the side started yesterday and doing the other side. All the holes are filled and I believe after one more test fit, I'm ready to start bondo.
hurry up and finish the bondo , my T is waiting . Seriously I hope you didn't find the bondo in the trunk of the mustang :P :lol: . Nice work by the way !
Looking good! 8)
"One more test fitting". Did anybody just see the tooth fairy? How about 4 more attempts before I quit. I'm finally ready for bondo. :)
WOW :!: :!: You learned that "connect the dots" stuff from Matt pretty quick :!:
BV
I think I like it better with the slots in the hood. Put them back in so I can be sure. :D
Thanks for the comments, guys!
Mr. Bondo got started and quit. It's hard to find good help. :) :)
Just for you, Frank! :)
I see hood corners fitting up nicely! 8) You and we are gonna like the truck even more now. :D
See if Mr Mud has a 3 or 4 foot stick of PVC pipe thats nice and straight. He can use that to ward off Chief Sandalot of the Many Waves tribe using a continuous roll of 80 cal sand ammo. Singlehandedly! Just slide him paper until no teeter totter! :wink: :idea: :arrow:
It would look good with a few rows of louvers, too, I think - just me thinkin' again; my Bride says I shouldn't do that so much.
No playing today. I spent the day working on the underneath side of the hood.
After an embarrassing amount of time, the hood is finished with bondo, sprayed with epoxy and the first application of high build primer. First of several. :) For those of you that like numbers, it was 104 degrees in the shop this afternoon.
Thems insta-flash temps! :shock: Looks like you got it wet though :)
Glad to see you on the downhill side of this hood project. Have you been terrorizing the two-lanes with no hood? If not, I bet you're ready to have the truck back going. Hope you get favorable temps when its paint time. 8)
2nd app. of high build primer after several hours of hand blocking. Really not very exciting. :)
Today's stopping point.
Pitiful update. Bondo is close to the end on the fenders. Hood is ready for the next application of primer. I'm really slow at this. :)
Lunch break. This is the hood in the 3rd application of primer. I believe it will be the last. Meet Mr. Buck. This is one side of the wheel well opening extensions.
End of the day. All apart for finishing.
Looking like lots of progress to me 8) Good stuff:)
Any more updates? It sure it hot out, for painting anything :cry:
Mid-day break. Had a bend to remove from one fender. Fill parts welded in. I'm closing up the gap on the rear of the wheel well, not reforming the whole thing.
Mid afternoon break. It's 104 degrees in the shop. I'm ready for a little hammer and dolly and then bondo.
The fenders are fixed :!: :!: YEAAAAAAAAAAAA 8) 8) 8) :lol:
They look better already 8) :lol:
That welding "by the dot" thing that Matt showed us sure seems to work ... 8)
Bob.... :wink:
Pinholes to fill and more work on the right hand wheel well lip and it's time for primer.
WOW..You're pretty good at that stuff ... 8) Ready for my fenders :?: :idea: :lol:
Remember .....My "A" fenders come before Chimp's "T" fenders 'cause thats how the alphabet thingie works ..... :lol: :lol:
Bob... :wink:
Thanks for pointing that out, Bob. But, if I interfere with your long history of progress, won't it upset the world as we know it? :)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What did he do there :shock: :?: :?: :?: :?: :? :? :lol:
Bob... :wink:
The pics are: ready for primer, epoxy primer and the 1st application of high build primer. Now I can see how much work I have to do. :)
Tiny bit more progress. After I primed them the 1st time, I found some bad spots. I know I will find some more after block sanding but I'm going in the right direction.
That stuff is coming along real nice! 8) Lots of folks would just slop paint on, but you're gonna have a good looking finished result.
Quote from: "kb426"Tiny bit more progress. After I primed them the 1st time, I found some bad spots. I know I will find some more after block sanding but I'm going in the right direction.
I used an Evercoat product called 4 to 1 on my '57 wagon project, it sure covered up & filled a bunch of pits & other assorted nasties in one coat. I just bought a gallon of PPG K38 for final sand blocking, it and a qt. of hardner was about 275.00 OUCH!!
papastoyss, I have not looked at that product before. I used the slicksand before and it didn't go well. I didn't have a gun that would spray it evenly. It was terrible to sand back down so I've kind of stayed with regular high build primer. The description of 4in1 looks like the same stuff. I'm going to call them when I get time and ask questions. As far as paint in general goes, I don't think there is any of us that aren't hurt by the price of the products. :)
QuoteAs far as paint in general goes, I don't think there is any of us that aren't hurt by the price of the products. :)
Rustoleum is on sale here at $2.98 a can :!: :shock:
( Yup...I stocked up .... :oops: ) ...
Bob... :wink:
Ugly Olds is my kinda guy.
Another pityfull update. I painted the underneath side of the hood yesterday. Today I realized I forgot to repair the cross brace. i have block sanded most of the hood for the 4th time. It will take 1 more time to make it good enough. :)
Quote from: "kb426"Another pityfull update. QuoteI painted the underneath side of the hood yesterday. Today I realized I forgot to repair the cross brace.
i have block sanded most of the hood for the 4th time. It will take 1 more time to make it good enough. :)
And this weeks TEAM SMART winner is ........ :(D) :-} );b( :lol: :lol:
Bob.... :wink:
I am so boring! More sanding and 4th application of primer on the hood. Maybe this will be the last one. :)
Just got back from a holiday .... looks like you are just about ready for my fenders ?
Quote from: "chimp koose"Just got back from a holiday .... looks like you are just about ready for my fenders ?
See my previous post regarding fenders ....... :?
Bob... :wink:
CK, I'm getting tuned up on metalflake. I can't start on your stuff until I get that figured out. I looked at every car with flake at Salina. I saw 2 that looked right and the rest ranged from that was a waste of time to there's no sparkle. I saw a lot of them driving in the sunlight. That's when I really knew if I needed to look at them. :) You and Bob might wait to see how mine look before you get too excited about this. :)
Quote from: "kb426"I am so boring! More sanding and 4th application of primer on the hood. Maybe this will be the last one. :)
It took me that many to do a brand new hood once. Cost me a month of life :roll: This is where a polyester primer remark goes but I don't remember it and do remember what you said when you embarked on this mission. You're gonna get there. Still hot for painting anyway. Take your time!
Primered and in the solar booth.
2nd time on the small parts and 5th time on the hood. When sanding the hood yesterday, I noticed that the crown flattened out at the rear of the hood. More work. :) Maybe this is the last time for the hood. I think I've said that before. :)
I've been something of a worker today. This is the front fenders sanded and primed. :)
The weather is not favorable to paint work this morning. I spent some time re-routing wiring around the engine. I was able to take the right side of the engine's main harness and hook it to the fenderwell. I moved some things at the rear of the engine and that allowed me to move the slack loop to the side, out of sight at first glance. After studying this mess, I realize that if I redo everything under the dash, I could move the left side to the fenderwell also. I haven't made the decision about that yet. It's still ugly but a little less. I'm watching cold air kits that have enough tubing to allow me to move the air filter to a different location. I might get this cleaned up enough for it to be presentable. :)
Quote from: "kb426"The weather is not favorable to paint work this morning. I spent some time re-routing wiring around the engine. I was able to take the right side of the engine's main harness and hook it to the fenderwell. I moved some things at the rear of the engine and that allowed me to move the slack loop to the side, out of sight at first glance. After studying this mess, I realize that if I redo everything under the dash, I could move the left side to the fenderwell also. I haven't made the decision about that yet. It's still ugly but a little less. I'm watching cold air kits that have enough tubing to allow me to move the air filter to a different location. I might get this cleaned up enough for it to be presentable. :)
It looked fine & worked great before you tore it down ..... :roll:
You just need to follow Ugly Olds rule # 1...LEAVE THE HOOD CLOSED .... 8)
If someone ask's, tell them "Gee, it's all dirty in there"..... :idea:
It's worked for me with the Olds since I built the dumb thing ...... :lol: :lol: :lol:
Bob.... :wink:
Here we have the fenders primed again. The hood in epoxy and then painted. The nats got in the clear but I'm going to sand and flowcoat so I'm hopeful that they will be removed. :)
1 bug, 1 piece of crapola, way better than before.
Looks great! Woohoo shiny 8)
That's lookin' good.
KB...What is this "Flocoat" that you speak of :?:
Does it come in 5 gallon pails :?: :idea: :lol:
That MAY be the solution with the Ugly Olds .... :roll:
Bob.... :wink:
Bob, I think you are being facetious! It means you sand the clear and do it again. If you're lucky or good, it will be better and flat. I'm at the 2nd coat of clear on the fenders and haven't screwed up yet. There is some dirt in it but no big black bugs. The clear is supposed to have 15 minutes between coats. That is way too long for me. :) I'm strapped to the chair so I can wait. LOL.
Some dirt, no black bugs!
I am truly happy for your success. :)
White can be such a pain because bugs (and all the other things). I see plastic over everything, that had to help. Only thing you missed that I can see from here is...
You forgot to lay some flames down before that flow coat. :D
That did mean lightly sanding out some debris and re-clearing, right?
Tweezers are a nutritious part of a painter's bag-o-trix, but my hand is rarely steady enough to pick bugs out of wet clear without scraping the base. A few times in frantic desperation, I have gently stuck my tiny pick next to the bug where it can climb the tool. If they don't have a wing in it yet, theres a sportin' chance! :lol:
I was looking back at the engine bay pic and having a flurry of thoughts and questions. People build fine custom intake pipes every day with items from home improvement stores. I'd start spouting ideas but could easily trip on them being a Pontiac guy mainly, but not knowing about MAF relocation stuff on those. You sure have a good opportunity to do something visually striking under the hood. When your mind comes back to the engine compartment, that will be interesting. 8)
Matt, I'll sand later in the week and then pick the best day weather wise to recoat. If they look like they will buff with very little work, that's what will happen. I have an idea for the intake but I have to do some research to see if it's a good idea or a disaster waiting to happen.
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"Bob, I think you are being facetious! It means you sand the clear and do it again. If you're lucky or good, it will be better and flat. I'm at the 2nd coat of clear on the fenders and haven't screwed up yet. There is some dirt in it but no big black bugs. The clear is supposed to have 15 minutes between coats. That is way too long for me. :) I'm strapped to the chair so I can wait. LOL.
Gee.... :oops: I thought that there was some magic elixir that I could put in my gun & make my lumpy paint all shiny & smooth again... :roll:
I was even willing to apply 3 or more coats as needed ... Even go as far as using a new roller pad :idea:
I can't do the "color sand & buff" on the Olds as that will make the oopsie dents & the hood "whoopies" be that much more noticeable .... :(D)
Oh well......It was a thought .... :roll:
Bob.... :wink:
The hood isn't finished but close. Sanded and buffed. Little things left.
Stopping point on the hood until some more buffing compound arrives. I have 1 fender sanded with 600 before I quit. Lots more work to do. :)
Several years ago, I developed a problem. Every time I would take a friday off bad things would happen. So I quit taking fridays off. :) The last 2 months I've taken many fridays off. Some for car shows, some for work on the 51. Today has been a test. Old times returned. I started out setting up everything ready to put a coat of clear on and be done. For some reason, I forgot to paint the radiator splash shield that was hiding in the corner. I shot white on it and got started on clear. The small parts all looked fine. Both fenders got crap in them. I moved all the small parts to the storage shed and waited for the fenders to dry. I then sanded them and re-shot them. They have some orange peel. I didn't get them as good as I wanted. After they are outside in the sun, I'll make a decision on whether to buff or not.
This is the last part of the front end to be done. There were dents in the grille bars that I couldn't get to. I drilled out the spot welds and removed the real bad bar. I spent a fair amount of time with hammer and dolly to get the bar where a skim coat of plastic will fix it. I straightened the headlight holders where the grille bars attach and they're ready for the next step. On the back side of the grille bars, I'm going to weld in tabs in each end to bolt the assembly back together.
The tabs are welded on the rear of the grille bars. I used the drilled spot weld holes for line-up with clecos. There is a 1/4" and a 3/16" fastener per grille bar end. Back to really boring sanding and bondo work.
kb, just a couple of woo hoo's from this end of the peanut gallery. I don't post much but I've followed your build from the beginning and am constantly impressed. I just wish I had your level of ambition. );b(
Thank you, George.
Grille parts moving along.
Next step.
Now this.
Gee KB ...That ain't "connect the dots" like Matt showed us .... :shock:
Just wait 'til HE see's what you did.....
Looks like you wound up with a "baked on finish" though ... :?
What's going on :?: :?:
You took a perfectly good running, driving truck & took it all apart :shock:
That's TWICE as much work.. :?
Bob.... :wink:
Bob, you are correct. Mike Brown's truck has shaved drip rails. I decided I needed to do that. Everything that I wasn't pleased with is getting changed. This reaks of really bad planning but I want this to be as right as it can be when I get finished. All about personal taste once again. I hope when I'm done you agree that it is better. :)
There is a reason I'm a team smart member!!!!
The drip rail shave is looking nice! :!: 8) Those are just longer dots :lol: because T comes after M, as in IG.
I have finished a couple drip rail shaves started by others :roll: Yours looks wonderful.);b(
The trouble I run into is guys will cut the rails off thinking that the roof will now line up with the top of the door. :shock: :oops: Thats when I see em. :wink:
I like how you found motivation and are running with it! Keep going :arrow:
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"Bob, you are correct. Mike Brown's truck has shaved drip rails. I decided I needed to do that. Everything that I wasn't pleased with is getting changed. This reaks of really bad planning but I want this to be as right as it can be when I get finished. All about personal taste once again. I hope when I'm done you agree that it is better. :)
There is a reason I'm a team smart member!!!!
But Gee Mr. KB...Where are the poor drips gonna go now :?: They will have no guidance.. :cry: :cry:
Besides...This means you gotta paint..Again & again & again...... :(
Bob... :wink:
I once thought I had a lot of patience, but I'm not even in the same ball park with this stuff. WOW!
He's just stalling on my model T bodywork ! :lol:
QuoteQuote from: "chimp koose"He's just stalling on my model T bodywork ! :lol:
He's gotta do my A fenders FIRST :!: Remember the alphabet :!:
A before T except ...Wait ..I'm gonna get in trouble here... :shock: :oops:
Bob.... :wink:
1 down, 1 to go.
El Completo!
Chez magnifique! 8)
Saturday total activities: remove doors, finish cutting and welding drip rail area on both sides, first coat of bondo sanded, 1 door's hinge pins were froze in, removed and holes checked for new pins, other doors hinges flat head bolts were seized in their mounts, drilling and removing them by various methods. Enough fun for 1 day. :)
KB what are you planning on changing next ? Or should I just ask ... are any mustang parts left on the truck ?
I've spent the day doing bondo work. The doors are on for line up. Let's just say it needs more work. Insert expletives here.
CK, in the next couple of weeks you'll see what I have planned. I'm not using Mustang parts. :)
Quote from: "kb426"Insert expletives here.
In case it could help, I'll place this link here-
http://idrivejunk-silverford.blogspot.com/
:)
I was wondering how many layers you had there at the rails.
Ok Matt. I'm taking the easy way out by filling the gap with bondo but after seeing this, I'm aware of how if this decision had been made in the beginning, I would have used metal on everything. I'm running out of time weather wise and not wanting to have to redo everything on the cab. I should get an F on planning but I'm still doing as much as I can with the time I have left. The drip rail hung down and this is the area that's being filled. Back to work. Breaks over. :)
Quote from: "kb426"Ok Matt. I'm taking the easy way out by filling the gap with bondo but after seeing this, I'm aware of how if this decision had been made in the beginning, I would have used metal on everything. I'm running out of time weather wise and not wanting to have to redo everything on the cab. I should get an F on planning but I'm still doing as much as I can with the time I have left. The drip rail hung down and this is the area that's being filled. Back to work. Breaks over. :)
Rock on 8)
Everyone underestimates the complexity of drip rail shaves :cry:
Some of them are a lot worse than what you're dealing with though. Bang it out and go on because you're right about the weather. Its getting to be really nice outside so now is the time. :arrow:
I WAS RIGHT :!: :!:
This proves that drips have feelings too... :shock: :lol: :lol: :roll:
Bob... :wink:
I'm making a little progress. I'm surprised how long this is taking. It's not finished but you can see where I'm going with this.
yup. gettin there.
Today's tasks were to get the rest of the cab sanded and get the door frame area sealed and primed.
good thing you didn't use metalflake the first time . It would have been a bear to match with the repaint !
QuoteQuote from: "chimp koose"good thing you didn't use metalflake the first time . It would have been a bear to match with the repaint !
You want to tell him the paint he just put on there dosen't match or should I :?: :?: ...( It's gray...not white...) :roll:
Back to "Team Smart" , huh :?: :?:
Bob.. :wink:
Bob, back when I bought white, I bought a couple of gallons mixed at the same time to avoid a surprise. We'll see how this works out. I have a plan for today. By tonight I'll know if it was a good plan. :)
August 26 is when I came up with the bright idea to redo half the truck. :) Now it's September 3rd and the paint work is done on the outside of the cab. For those of you that are curious or just like numbers, I have around 48 hours in this from removing the bed to the pics attached. One pic is of sealer, the rest are cleared. It's not perfect by any means. There's some dirt but the only 2 bugs landed in the first coat of clear. They held still will my tweecers removed them. :) I may cut and buff but I won't make that decision until next week. I still have the grille to paint and some more work on the interior.
Lookin' good ..And Shiney too :!: 8)
Bob... :wink:
Thanks, Bob.
Very NICE! 8) Thats slicker than owl snot on a greased glass doorknob :shock:
Great progress. You ain't a-feared of bodywork are ye? :wink:
Perfect base for the freak drops . lace paint and fish scales to follow !!!! :lol: I need to finish my mini chopper so I can go crazy with the paint !! I have always wanted to try that stuff . Took a painting course at our tech college in '80 and have only painted a few vehicles since then . I have done a lot of rattle can flame jobs but never a real custom job . When I took the paint class I had dreams of being a painter , then I realised that most of the industry was crash repair and not competing with Barris ,Himsl or Carter ! Been machining since '82
Thanks for the comments, guys. :) I had a day and a half vacation to go to a concert. The pics are of the grille parts in sealer and painted. Another step closer. :)
Back of the cab where it's covered by the bed color sanded and buffed. Some hand work at the bottom left.
Im squinting real hard and I still cant see the metalflake! ???
CK, I think it's because you didn't have your super secret spy eye glasses on! :)
This pic shows you the next step. Lunacy abounds. :)
YA you are probably right ! I couldn't find the glasses , I usually have them next to my secret decoder ring :lol:
I just spent the last hour working on the wiper assembly. I bought what I perceive to be the best wiper motor and hooked it all up. This was last year. The wipers would lock up if there was any moisture at all in a few swipes. You could bump an arm and they would start again for awhile. My thought was that the arms to the wiper posts were wore out. This truck spent it's life in semi-arid climate so the wipers being wore out doesn't sound logical. It is 65 years old but sat in a pasture for at least 30 years that I know of. :) I'm ready to cut, weld, machine, do whatever is necessary to remedy the problem. I connect the motor to the wiper assembly laying on the floor. It's obvious there's a problem. I start analyzing things and wonder if the stroke is too long or short on the new motor. I measure and don't see anything that stands out as a problem. I loosen the mounting bracket and re-tighten it and the tight spots go away. I pull the screws out and start clamping and moving the mounting points around. I found that if I clamp the motor to the mounts 1/2 of a 10/32 bolt, that all the tightness seemed to disappear. I reminded of production tolerances from 65 years ago. I don't know if I found all the answers but I let it run for 15 minutes and there was no sign of tight spots. :)
This is going to be love it or hate it! The white truck needed a dash of color for the inside. This is electric lime candy.
LOVE IT !!!!! Gotta paint the shifter knob to match .
Front fenders cut and buffed. I haven't done the wheel lips yet. That will wait for a day of lots of time. :)
Good work ! Now when do you want my fenders ? :lol:
QuoteQuote from: "kb426"This is going to be love it or hate it! The white truck needed a dash of color for the inside. This is electric lime candy.
:shock: :shock: :shock:
Bob... :wink:
Quote from: "kb426"This is going to be love it or hate it! The white truck needed a dash of color for the inside. This is electric lime candy.
Being "electric lime candy" , does that mean that there's a switch to tone it down a little :?: :lol:
Maybe like a volume control :?: :idea:
Bob.. :wink:
Bob, that's a great idea. If you can turn it down, I can turn it up!!! :)
If this doesn't put you to sleep, then superman should be worried! :) I rebuilt the glove box hinge. The pin in the spring end was 3/16". The hole in the arm is worn to 5/16". I welded, drilled and installed a hard fastener with a locking nut so I can adjust tension on it.
I sure don't mind a color accent but am curious what the plan is with the green. 8)
After an embarrassing amount of time today, I have painted both sides of the hinges white. The mounting surfaces were in epoxy primer and they rusted. Then the rust ran down the door jamb. :( I spent lots of time installing the new ac controller. There are some flanges on the inside of the dash panel that are left over from the original Ford design that were obstructing the 2 hold down clamps that are with the control unit. Took an hour instead of 5 minutes. :) Those of you that have fabulous memories will remember that the ac controls and vent used to be below the dash. Now everything is in the dash. The fan override switch will be moved to a panel to cover the area below the dash to clean everything up. Tomorrow I plan to finish the dash and get to the under dash panel.
Matt, the plan with the dash isn't going to be congruent with logic. I believe that the hood, dash and steering wheel are what we look at most so they need to be the best. The dash in my 32 was white and boring. When I painted it green, the sun would shine through the windows and it would sparkle. It made a huge amount of difference in how I enjoyed the long trips that I take. The 51's dash needed the same effect. Totally incongruent with the rest of the truck. After it's back together and driving, I'll report back on whether i accomplished my goal. :)
Quote from: "kb426"Matt, the plan with the dash isn't going to be congruent with logic. I believe that the hood, dash and steering wheel are what we look at most so they need to be the best. The dash in my 32 was white and boring. When I painted it green, the sun would shine through the windows and it would sparkle. It made a huge amount of difference in how I enjoyed the long trips that I take. The 51's dash needed the same effect. Totally incongruent with the rest of the truck. After it's back together and driving, I'll report back on whether i accomplished my goal. :)
I totally get that. 8) Dang the congruence... grin on face is what matters to us non-dragstrip users. You are going to enjoy watching the tree reflections whiz across that new improved hood too. Wish I had a dab of your motivation :!: Nice job and cool truck.
Moving the A/C controls & the other panel to the dash "breaks up" the massive "Sea of Green" that we first saw... 8)
It looks MUCH better now ..Will be even better with the instrument cluster installed ... :idea:
You SURE had us worried there for a moment ...... :lol:
Almost ready for my fenders :?:
Bob.. :wink:
This is for you that have been here a long time.
How about clecos and CAD? :lol:
Bob, fenders? What fenders? You have fenders????? :lol:
Quote from: "kb426"Bob, fenders? What fenders? You have fenders????? :lol:
I even have GOOD glass fenders so I know what the steel fenders are supposed to look like .... :? :shock: :roll: :lol:
Bob... :wink:
After way too many hours, I'm at a stopping point. The pics are before the steering column is in and then after. The after pic also was with the lights on but the camera didn't pic up the blue light from the inverter on the white face panel. I ordered the speedo with the blue light also. For those of you that remember, the speedo was hung from the dash and it's now sunk in the new gauge face panel. It's not perfect but I think unless I purchase an aftermarket gauge kit, this may be as good as I can get it. I ran out of ideas. :(
Like. You just made it a lot funner to ride in );b(
Looks neat KB ... 8) If I am understanding correctly , the speedo face is supposed to look like the other gauges :?:
That will look GREAT :idea:
Those panels you installed take away the "in your face" harsh ,(IMO), expanse of green... :b-d:
Bob... :wink:
Thanks for the comments, guys. Bob, after the lights are turned on all the gauges have blue lighting similar to my wife's 12 Chrysler 300. If I had a clear vision of where this was going to end up 2 years ago, I would have ordered the speedo with a white face also. I didn't know they made a white face kit for the mustang panel back then. It's coming back out this morning. I have a better way to connect the rear panel to the dash then I have know. It should give it stability and take the tension off the clear cover. We'll see if this is a good idea or mindless ramblings at 4 am. :)
The gauge cluster mounts have been redone. Way better. :) The next task for today was to change the throttle pedal. I moved it to the right about an inch. We all know an inch is important. :) Lunch is over, back to work.
Afternoon break. Slightly more progress.
Under dash panel on the right side. Covering the steering column will be a task.
I just spent hours putting the hinges and latch plates back on. Removing items that were never supposed to be removed is an exercise in patience. Moving forward, though. :)
Ladies and Gentlemen, we have doors.
No drip rails looks real cool 8) Nice progress!
Really boring update. Color sanding in the driveway. Being really careful to not break through the clear.
Pitiful update. Pitiful pics. The rear fenders and most of the cab have been color sanded with 2000. Tomorrow will be a buffing day.
Why pitiful :?: All you got left to do is make shiney & then "wax on / wax off" .. 8)
That means my fenders will be done that much sooner .. :idea: 8)
Bob... :wink:
No pity for bodymans :lol: Prepare to be snowblind 8)
Thats a big bunch of work but think about that new old shiny improved truck, mmm. You're gonna get some cruising in after all. );b(
There's a tiny bit of hand work left and the cab is finished. This isn't show quality by any means but it's going to be as good as it gets. :) The fly is still freeloading on the top. I've buffed the fenders the 1st time but I couldn't see good enough to do the rest. The box will be coming in the shop to finish the buffing.
I gave the chassis a little bit of of a bath before proceeding. Moved the bed inside and buffed the fenders. Then picked it up and pushed the frame outside. Backed the 51 in and very carefully set the box back on. 3 days shy of a month, it looks kinda like it did!!! LOL
Looks neat KB... 8) Do you plan on pin striping or a graphic of some kind to break up the white :?:
Can't wait to see the "reformed" front fenders in position...
Bob... :wink:
Bob, I'm still thinking about that. I can barely think about 1 subject at a time so when it's all back together, I'll explore options. :)
Today's 1st task is completed. The pics show the adapter that was supposed to work with the airbag clock spring. :) The machined adapter and the new wheel. I may paint the adapter flat black to match the column.
Task no. 2 for today. I wanted something different than the Mustang latches I used. I did some investigating and found that there are lots of latch pins that were the same size as the Mustang's without any support. Because these doors aren't near as substantial as a Mustang convertible, I decided a single pin would be adequate. I made pins from 1/2" cold roll steel. The 1/4" plate was the support that was behind the Mustang latch I used. The 1/4" plate was machined for adjustment slots and the new pin welded in. There is flat black paint to keep it from rusting. The nuts on the back side were difficult to get in place so I welded them onto a plate that has a 90 bent on to it so I can hold it in place during assembly. I've played with the doors for a while and I think this is good. There's no vibration or strange sounds when the door closes. :)
I just spent 2 1/2 hours with mis-matched parts and poor quality to make the horn button work. The horn button was made for the steering wheel but not the adapter. I figured out what was different from the 2 adapters that was necessary to make this work. I made a spacer for under the wheel to hold the button in place. I used a pvc coupler from the hardware store. Machined the id on the lathe and cut some recesses for the tangs to go through to allow assembly after it was in place. The coupler was 74 cents. :) I put everything together and no horn. After trying repeatedly, I figured that one of the parts wasn't the right depth for contact upon pushing on the button. I removed the metal contact from the outside part and took a punch and drove it towards the contact direction. Reinstalled and I have a functional horn. FINALLY. :) It only has 1 moving part. How can this take so long?
I like your strikers. :) A clockspring in a 50 model is counter- intutitive but I get it. The steering wheel is cool. 8)
I dunno... what you're going through sounds easier than putting together parts that ARE supposed to fit can often be. :roll:
You'll be able to stare at the truck and smile at the new goodies all winter long, and be satisfied without lifting a finger. :idea: :arrow:
Thanks for the comments. :) Today's first task was to install the new tag bracket and plate holder. This is a Bob Drake unit that is widely used. I re-bent the tag bracket so the tag is perpendicular to the earth. The connections are heat shrink crimp style. I'm using a SAE 2 prong for a disconnect. The next task was to remove all the brackets around the radiator that weren't painted when the truck was put together for test fit. They will be finished and painted in the next couple of days.
About a year ago, I was asked how I was going to clean up the engine compartment. I thought about that for quite a while. My 1st thought was to never open the hood. :) But as most of you know, the " I can do better" syndrome started to take over. These pics show the relocated wiring harness and relocated air intake. I made a tube to replace the mustang air intake tube. The wiring will be fed through cutouts in the radiator supports that I'm painting today. The power distribution box is relocated to under the master cylinder. So far I only had to lengthen 3 wires that all were 12v. There maybe some short wires feeding to the turn and headlights but that will wait until the grille is back on to find out.
That mess looks like it's been in a dust and mud storm. :)
2nd task for today: parts in epoxy and then gray to match the rest of the chassis.
That's a pretty neat parts holdin' fixture for painting stuff... :idea: I'm gonna steal that one ... 8)
It's neat that you are cleanin' up the underhood area, but with the side windows on the hood welded closed, who's gonna see it :?: :?: :lol:
Bob... :wink:
Bob, that is left over from motorcycle projects. You have small parts that will be blown around while trying to paint them but they need paint on both sides. These parts are screwed down in areas that won't be seen.
This morning I installed the radiator supports and ran the wiring around them. I washed off the painting residue. This is as clean as this will be. :)
Thats all a great big improvement on underhood appearance. If it were mine thats about how I'd want it. Overall, you are making leaps and bounds on the truck with all these details. 8)
Stopping point today. I'm feeling the affects of TB.
I sure hope that stands for Tired Bodyman!
I keep waiting for a picture of it sitting on the ground with it's wheels on to see that front fender wheel opening looks like. I was also concerned about the TB statement because I still get confussed by TBI means. GPster
Ok guys, Tired (fill in the blank) All body parts are eligible. :)
It's together. The hood hinges are giving me fits. I had it working when I disassembled for paint and now I'm starting over. I still have some parts to make for the interior and mess with the hood adjustment. I'm not real pleased with the pics. The white is giving my camera some difficulties or it's about to go to the camera graveyard.
I like!!!
Lookin' good ... 8) Those front fenders are gonna fool some Ford "experts" .... :lol:
Bob.. :wink:
Hot diggity dog, looka there :!: :shock: 8) :D
You'll work out the hinge thing. Man that looks like a million bucks from where I sit. That nice straight hood, all that fresh paint, wow.
You gotta feel good about that. Aches are dissolved with V8 seat time now go get you some. Nice work! );b( :0-0
This has to be the most lame update ever! This is the first time in 3 years that letters are on the front of the truck. :)
Quote from: "kb426"This has to be the most lame update ever! This is the first time in 3 years that letters are on the front of the truck. :)
And even in the correct order :shock: :!: :!: :lol:
Bob... :wink:
Bob, one of my friends helped me with that. He said it's easy to remember: found on road dead. He does have a few chevys in his driveway. LOL
Quote from: "kb426"Bob, one of my friends helped me with that. He said it's easy to remember: found on road dead. He does have a few chevys in his driveway. LOL
Oh there are many acronyms for that and I use them frequently! :wink:
I remember the first time I saw the letters on that silver '62 F100. It really crowns the truck, don't it? Putting that on had to be a big enjoy :D
It looks good KB ... 8) I'm just happy you changed those front fenders .... :D
Bob.. :wink:
I tried to get a shot of the dash to show the sparkle but I may have failed. I made a cover for the steering column where it bolts to the dash. Not real good, just effective. :)
First On Race Day !!!!!
Maybe a year ago, we had a discussion about removing wheels while on the road. The shock springs had settled enough that I raised the back end to the middle shock hanger position. I like the way it looks in relation to the amount of tire being shown rather than with it in the lowered position. What do you guys think?
I like a little more of a rake. Think that was imprinted on my psyche in my youth.
It's kinda hard to tell... :? You can see some rake but , the driveway seems to be angled the other way ....
I even tilted my head & it was still the same .... :shock:
Maybe a photo parked on a flat surface :idea:
Bob... :wink:
You would be correct, Bob. The sloping driveway is part of my exercise program. Years of pushing fuel dragsters, projects and inoperable cars builds strong bodies 12 ways just like wonder bread. :)
I bought 2 different styles of peel and stick weatherstripping from Steele Rubber products. It was expensive but it's supposed to be the best. ???? I've gone for a test ride and I now have no wind noise. They advertise that this is made from the same material as the windshield rubber gasket. It came with 3M adhesive so it's probably as good as there is. Time will tell. :)
No wind noise is major! Congrats on that, its a biggie in my book. Can you show a piece or the box?
The wheelwell fit thing is sacred among rodders and I'm more of a muscle car enthusiast so... pass. :oops:
Matt, you may not be very impressed with what I show you. This is Steele number 83-1022-73. I ran it around on the inside of the door frame about 3/4's of the perimeter. I knew that I would never get the stock rubber to seal up everywhere. This cab was sprung enough to make that impossible. This pic is of the right side at the top.
Ok, Bob, you see the angle of the running boards against the street. Is This better? :)
Quote from: "kb426"Matt, you may not be very impressed with what I show you. This is Steele number 83-1022-73. I ran it around on the inside of the door frame about 3/4's of the perimeter. I knew that I would never get the stock rubber to seal up everywhere. This cab was sprung enough to make that impossible. This pic is of the right side at the top.
Thank you sir! I didn't wish to be impressed, just informed. I am facing a similar case.
I could see another inch or inch and a half of giddy-uppity in the back. 8)
Quote from: "kb426"Ok, Bob, you see the angle of the running boards against the street. Is This better? :)
PERFECT :!: :!: 8) And soo nice & quiet inside too 8)
Looking good ..... :D
Bob... :wink:
I have a dilemma and need some input. I'm not happy with the amount of the ratio of sidewall versus wheel diameter on the front to the rear. I rolled one of the 17" Mustang wheels that I couldn't use in place to do a comparison. The tire is very close to the same height as the one on the truck. My first thought is that I need some 16's on the front, not 17's. What is your thought?
Quote from: "kb426"Ok, Bob, you see the angle of the running boards against the street. Is This better? :)
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The tires & wheels in this photo seem to be right on ..... 8)
Don't change nuttun'...... :lol:
Bob.. :wink:
Well.....^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ THAT worked well..... :roll: :roll:
It's supposed to be the "level driveway" photo from above ...... :? 8)
Bob.. :wink:
I like the way this F1 looks and sits - just right, in my humble opinion.
New wheels. It now has 17's front and back. I raised the rear 1 inch to allow some more sidewall to be seen and to facilitate removal of the tire without having to need 2 jacks in case of a flat tire. Better safe than sorry. :) This should be a stopping point as far as wheels and tires are concerned. :) I also added blue led lights to the rest of the dash controls so everything matches the gauge panel.
Looks good like that. Nice tire to wheel ratio.
Canuck
truck does look good. I like more tire sidewall than current trend the last 10 yrs.
careful. You may finish this truck
Those look real good. The truck is a sensible, neat package. Well done!
It looks better this way ... 8)
See what happens when you concentrate on hot rod stuff instead of making "Taco's" :?: :?: :P :lol: :lol:
Bob.. :wink:
Thanks for the compliments. Now back to tacos! :)
Its SWEET!!!!!!!!
I definitely like that truck - it's just right in my estimation. Nice job.
Stick a fork in it , its done ! It really says something when a truck can look so right when it is done in white . All you have to go on is stance for the look . No eye searing paint to draw attention , just a nice , clean , well proportioned ride . Great job .
It's one of those that no matter where or when you see it, you just say "yeah, that's what I'm talkin' about".
Quote from: "chimp koose"Stick a fork in it , its done ! It really says something when a truck can look so right when it is done in white . All you have to go on is stance for the look . No eye searing paint to draw attention , just a nice , clean , well proportioned ride . Great job .
This. :)
KB, this fall might offer some scenic photo opportunities for the new slickum job. Keep your eyes peeled because we'd like to see that. :wink:
Snow pics could be good too :idea:
Whuts next, anything you know of? Rest, perhaps :?:
Matt, the list of next projects is long. I haven't got started determining the order yet. Rest is not on the list. :)
I just installed rack and pinion number 3. At least this one was under warranty. I'm not a real fan of rebuilt steering gear. :) I had a man that does lots of these front end installs tell me this would happen. If this one fails, I'll buy a new one. They're not cheap but if 1000 miles is all the others will last, there won't be another discussion.
Quote from: "kb426"I just installed rack and pinion number 3. At least this one was under warranty. I'm not a real fan of rebuilt steering gear. :) I had a man that does lots of these front end installs tell me this would happen. If this one fails, I'll buy a new one. They're not cheap but if 1000 miles is all the others will last, there won't be another discussion.
I installed an inline power steering filter in the system on the 54 chevy. My steering is very stiff when I first start the car but it is normal after I start driving. I may change that filter soon.
John
This is the beginning of the next step. The Dart bucket seats don't like me. This is a Dakota seat that is not the base model. It will be upholstered in black ultraleather after it warms up enough for me to work on it. I had a 89 Shelby Dakota that had one of these seats. It fit me well. That was several years ago but I'm cautiously optimistic about this allowing me to drive this truck 14 hours at a time and be good. :)
I'll bet it feels good to be to the point that driving the truck for 14hr days is dependent on how comfortable the seat is. 8)
^^^^^^
You would be correct. :)
The beginning. :)
Seat's in the truck. Too late for pics. Lots to do. Because the console was removed, there's no storage. Decision await. :)
This is today's 1st project. The seat was disassembled to facilitate cutting the foam. The shifter needed clearance for 2nd, 4th and reverse. There is a shot of a front mount bracket for the seat. I'm going to drive it for a while before recovering it. I want to make sure this one allows long trips without pain. :)
I got started on a front bumper of some sorts for the front. May have pics tomorrow.
I was going to put fog lights in the 2 areas where the bumper brackets used to be. I couldn't find any I was happy with so I moved on to the next plan. Me being the ex-dragracer, I thought a push bumper might work. This is an abbreviated version of that. I used an old 2.75" diameter drive shaft. The mounts are 2" x .375" flat stock. When I mitered the shaft, it had twist in it that I had to deal with. It will be painted when it warms up. The question is gray or white?
HAMMERTONE grey .
with a metalflake accent!
Grey :)
Chrome :!: :!: 8)
Bob... :wink:
I got tired of rust. :) I removed the bumper, blasted it and shot primer and color. This was quick and not comprehensive. If I decide this is the best look, it will be removed much later and some bondo work done and reshot. :)
Very nice :!: 8)
:D :D :D