Topics

I am in need of information on the rear axles, brake drums and hubs.  I have this pick up in my shop  another shop cut hub and brake drums off with a torch . I have ask every one I know about parts.  I think I can hear several still laughing. I am wondering if any one has old Hollander Manuals that will help with finding the right parts . May be possible to use later model parts on the old Dodge rear end.   Not being a good Mopar man the only thing I can add is the pick up is a model  B .
  Waiting for the laughter    Thanks in advance

Please  can any body tell me ...... Which is the pressure and which is the return on a Mustang 2 and reg Mustang power  Rack and pinion steering
Thanks in advance   Bowtietillidie

Can any one here tell me what is the largest Alternator  in place of a 10 si Delco  I am talking size as in foot print....  Would like to use the 190 amp Deelco.. Would this alt be the same overall size


  Thanks in Advance Fellows

Looking for the rear end charts that show the different widths of the rear ends.. I don't seem to be smart enough to put together a correct search string.  Thanks for the help in advance

This  is a new one on me .......   What is a Berry Hone
                MY lost mind wants to know :?:  :?:  :?:

I have a idea for your double door gates  Paint a frontal view of your race car in full Launce mode in a wheel stand bursting out out the closed gates .  The car will look like it acme through the gate like a bullet . Take a piece of I/8 plate and shoot it with a large caliber hand gun . Look at the side where the bullet exited . Now picture your race car about half way out of that bullet hole
Scale all this up to fit your double gate doors .   I done this with a show car only used a mouse with a hypodermic needle sticking in his butt . He was bursting through the back seat  then on the under side of the hood he was bursting into the engine compartment The engine had an 8 stack Jackson EFI injector on it and we called it the INJECTED MOUSE

Haven't posted any thing for a while . Having some health problems but getting better.   My problem is as follows    I am installing one of Tom Langston's Dual Carb/ Weber-Carter kits on a Off y intake for a 216cu.in  Chevy ....... The problem is where the Intake manifold Carb adapter bolts  to the intake there isn't enough room to get the 3/8 cap screws furnished with the kit past the throat of the adapter. If I could use 3/8 to 5/16  step studs every thing would work out just fine ......   Now the real problem    where do I find 3/8 to 5/16 step studs ...... perplexed in Coshocton OH

Just as a side thought .   I think it would be great if  pictures were taken step by step of a Ford 9" being narrowed .   I think lots of RRT 's would love this type  of information.  Plus they could see just how time consumable this process really is  

When you torque head bolts or any bolt that it is recommended to do in several steps.   You some times get that sinking feeling did I torque that bolt   or not ?  
  Here is a quick way to keep track of how many steps you have taken and if every bolt has been torqued .   Start your torque sequence after each bolt is torqued mark it with a piece of soap stone. Example:  If you are torquing in three steps when you are done every bolt will have three marks
I have a rubber band around my torque that holds a piece of soap stone .   This way I never have to hunt for that dam soap stone  



Here is a quickie     Windshield washer spray nozzle plugged.   Take the rubber hose off of the back of the nozzle work it on to the spray side of the nozzle.  Use a can of penetrating oil (wd or Gibs) put the little straw in the  
nozzle shove the rubber hose over the straw turn the can up side down  
press the nozzle .  The propellent will clear the windshield spray nozzle  
This doesn't always work  but it is always worth a try

Ever have a bad smell in a car and just couldn't get it to GO away???
try this clean car up just like you always have .     Go to a furniture mover and rent or buy some old moving pads the kind that they use to cover things
for protection  .   go but some charcoal ( Big Bag) take some plastic buckets  
two gal or bigger  and drill some holes about one half inch in size all over the buckets( don't drill the bottom of the buckets.   Fill the buckets with charcoal  
Place on a bucket on the drivers side of the car one on the passenger side  
if you have a back seat put two back there and one in the trunk .
take the moving pads and cover the car all over make sure the pad touch the floor .   I set things from around the garage on the pads where they touch the floor . Leave sealed up for a week remove pads check for bad smell .
If still there seal it back for another week.    I once got a car given to me because a fellow had died in it and wasn't found for three weeks in the hot part of the  summer .  It took almost two months to get it smelling right but it worked .   Several buddies ask me how I got it clean I always told them bring your car and a hundred dollars to me and I;ll make it smell just like mine did .  Never did get any takers on putting the smell back in a car .     But over the years I have cleaned a bunch of smelly cars  


Another quick tip: Ask your wife when she goes to the store and buy's bread to ask the stock boy to tell her about the different color tie wraps on the bread sacks . Bread is baked fresh every day and has a different color tie wrap for each day these come in handy around the garage for color coded projects like wiring

I used this yrs ago to keep header and collector gaskets from burning out  and because of the price of parts I have started to use it again. I made a  pan out of sheet metal   2 inches deep by 6 inches wide by 24 inches long.  
after you get your pan made and it is water tight .   take 8oz of any motor oil and 8 0z of Anti seize compound  mix together pour into your new pan .
lay the header and collector gaskets in the pan lay a weight on the gaskets  
so they are submerged. Leave in the compound at least 24 hrs.   take them out and wipe off excess mixture, install run engine till it reaches operating temp.  Shut engine down retighten. I have run gaskets treated like this over    
two yrs and never had a failure or leak if the flanges were straight

Compression test
        This is how I was taught to do it at GM tech school in 1964

Before you start you will need (1) A piece of note book paper and a pencil
draw a line vertically down the center of the page.    To the left side of the vertical line and at the top write the word DRY.  At the right side of the vertical line and at the top write the word WET. ( Don't loose that pencil)
(2) A large squirt can of oil with a flexible spout  and the tools for the job.
(3)  A Good Compression Tester I use a Snap on tester with a flexible hose .
Next start the car and let it run till it reaches operating temperature. Shut engine down and disable engine from starting . Remove air cleaner check  
the choke make sure it is wide open pin it so it can not move . Unhook the throttle spring hold the throttle wide open and pin it also.   It is VERY important that the choke and throttle remain wide open during the test as you want the engine to be able to take in as much air as possible.  If this is a late model car with catalytic converter unhook exhaust at the exhaust manifold .
Next remove spark plugs do your compression check( spin engine over with the starter for a count of 15 or fifteen seconds for each cylinder) record each cylinder  
under the column on the note book paper marked DRY.  Do your compression check again BUT with this difference use that oil squirt  to put (5) five full squirts in each cylinder as you do your second test. Record results under the wet column on your note book paper . Now we have two sets of figures. One wet and one dry for each cylinder. Comparing these figures for with any of the cylinders gives us the information we seek.
                        Small example to follow  
Number (4) four cylinder  shows a marked increase between the wet and dry test  this tells us that the rings are weak in this cylinder .  Next we look at number (1) one it showed no change whats so ever between the wet and dry test . This cylinder is telling us that it has worn,burnt, bent, sticky valves or a burned piston.   These examples are just a couple that come to mind.   A properly performed compression test can reveal lots more than we have space here to discuss here.

Now that we have gained some more Aussie friends I am wondering if maybe one of you may be able to help me out .   I have a 1942 Chevy  2dr. BLACKOUT CAR and I need the door handles ,window cranks , escutcheons and related parts for the inside of the car. These handles &
cranks also escutcheons are plastic . They will be a light tan in color with
a character line of darker brown around the escutcheon where the handle
or crank passes thru.   I have been told that after WW2 the U.S. dumped lots of these on Australia .    Also I have been told that your HOLDEN uses
the same parts. I had a fella in Brisbane Looking for me but he has never contacted me . Any info or parts would make a happy camper. Also If any one finds any thing please take pic's I want to make sure every body is on the same page. Once we find the right parts I will pay what is fair plus a finders fee