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I found something that might help someone. It's actually something I've been thinking about for a while, but I get no credit for thinking of it and not building it. Rod ends on the street can wear out. Tie rod ends are sealed better, but don't fit every application. Poly bushings are available for almost every application, but they can squeak due to stiction. Delrin bushings are self lubricating, but have such high durometer there's no tolerance for anything but a pure pivot application. No eccentricity allowed.

Why, I thought, couldn't you make a bushing that's 3 layered. The usual steel sleeve in the middle to prevent crush, A Delrin sleeve to prevent stiction, and a poly bushing around that to reduce the overall durometer. I thought it made enough sense I was surprised no one has done it.

Someone has done it. CHE Performance specializes in the Crown Vic and 1979-2014 Mustang lines. They seem to be well thought in the Panther-platform space, which doesn't get a lot of love from the better known market players. https://www.cheperformance.com/collections/replacement-upgrade-parts/products/1klca

The bushings are pretty affordable at 4 for $40, but they're also customizable. They make these things on site, so if you contact them they will make them with either 1/2" or 9/16" bolts and in any width you need.

Has anyone here used this Steel-It paint? Reportedly it flows out really well when applied, is quite durable, spot-recoats well, and can even be welded through. I've seen a video of someone painting a piece of steel, cutting it in two, and welding it back together. Seemed to work pretty well.  https://steel-it.com/pages/automotive

There's nothing agricultural about the good old pushrod V8...not when even the pushrods can be high tech.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/01/13/pity-the-pushrod-why-you-should-pay-attention-to-pushrods/

I discovered a radiator hose fitting which might be handy for someone, mainly because #1 son broke off the small hose fitting while changing the battery in his Corolla. Clearly he got his Dad's mechanical skills.

This is Dorman part# 902-924HP in aluminum, 902-924 in the original nylon. In OEM usage it sits in the lower radiator hose and connects to a pressurized coolant resevoir. That would also make it ideal for engines that use steam vents in the upper radiator hose, like an LS. The stock radiator hose is 33mm, which should be close enough at 1.299" to use a 1.25" radiator hose. That's the same size as an LS thermostat housing, and you can get a 1.25" thermostat housing for most other engines including sbf and sbc. There's an integral, cast aluminum pedestal which mounts it to the battery tray in OEM use with a pair of 6mm (1/4") bolts. Dead easy to cut that off.


Dorman radiator hose fitting with pedestal mount

Sometimes suppliers go out of business and come back without being sold to Holley. Everyone here who uses them may already know, but Scarebird Classic Brakes went out of business late last year and is back under new ownership.  https://scarebird.com/index.php

Here's a really good and thorough explanation of thermostats. There's a lot more to it than you'd think for the single engine component we probably think of less than any other. It goes into the historical progression of thermostats and their development over time. The writing is meant to be directed at Jaguar owners, but it includes:

• How the bypass system works and why it doesn't have to be closed
• Systems that do attempt to close the bypass when the radiator circuit is being used
• The Ford 351C/M system, which is really a stand alone
• Reverse flow systems
• Thermostats with parameters modified by electronic inputs
• The Davies Craig system, which uses no thermostat
• Brand new systems which use an electronic valve in place of a thermostat for very rapid warmup and precise temperature regulation

https://www.coolcatcorp.com/thermostats/Bypass%20Systems.html

Here's something I'm kicking around in Paint for mounting a torque arm to a Ford 8.8" rear. Any issues?

• Use leaf spring saddles to bolt the assembly to the axle tubes.
• Set driveline angles before welding the spring saddles in place, just like with leaf springs.
• Wedges can be used to make minor changes in driveline angles if needed.
• The goal is to provide maximum beam strength all the way to the axle tubes.
• Bolt through the holes in the strengthening ribs to fully stabilize.
• Connect the axle tube mounts on each side with a cross tube under the nose of the diff case.
• Torque arm proceeds forward from there.

I found this sort of interesting. It's the history of Ford's Falcon chassis, possibly the first platform-based range of cars. Falcon-based cars were sold in the USA from 1960-1980, but the cars lived on in Australia. The article claims the Falcon never got a clean sheet of paper before its demise after 2016. I'm not sure if that's really true, but I found a picture of the underhood of a 1997 Australian Falcon. It shows the same familiar and intrusive shock towers.
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/automotive-history-fords-falcon-platform-from-falcon-to-versailles-in-18-different-wheelbase-lengthtrack-width-variations/

If I slip some, let's say, 20 gauge sheet between the understructure of a hood and the skin, positioned in a flattish part of the hood instead of where the nose rolls over, will it telegraph through?

I'm working on something not automotive related. I'm trying to drive a hand cranked knitting machine with a 1/4" belt and a sewing machine motor. My first mock up is done, and it makes the knitting machine run too fast. Not sure what to do here. My ideal would be a pair of pulleys on a shaft, or a step cone pulley. Ideally I'm looking for about a 4:1 gear reduction. I've looked at McMaster Carr and Amazon but can't find anything to do the job. Any ideas on where to go?

Does anyone know where I can go to get a belt for a small motor by length? I'm trying to run something off a sewing machine motor, but the belt it came from isn't long enough. The motor has a v pulley, but the top and bottom look more like a gear belt.

I'm looking at how far holes have to be separated for things which adjust by moving a bolt from one hole to another. Think things like moving a panhard bar up and down or getting the radius rods on a torque arm suspension level at right height. I'm seeing minimum distance between adjustment holes being something like 1/16" or 3 times the material thickness. I worry about 1/16" not being enough and 3 times sounds like a lot in 1/8" or 1/4" material seems like it could be excessive. Does any have any guidance on that?

Here's something I just discovered, an electric brake booster. It doesn't take up a lot of space, and unlike hydroboost, the other small booster option, it doesn't require hydraulic lines. It will also continue to provide full brake boost without vacuum. These things are on a number of OEM applications now. This video shows how it also is made to work with EV regenerative braking and active cruise control, which obviously aren't going to be big factors in the hot rod world.

Superfast Matt is one of my favorite YouTube channels. He's done the homework on how to make one of these boosters work in a hot rod application...though his is electrified.

This guy has his own information on how to install the unit.

More information directly from Bosch, if you prefer to read rather than watch a video.
https://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.com/en/solutions/driving-safety/ibooster/

Looks like these things are popping up on everything from Hondas to Silverados, and particularly on hybrids and EVs.

One of the subjects that comes up once in a while here is how to place a bead on the end of a tube to retain a hose clamp. There are a number of good solutions, but I don't think this one has come up before.

Get one of these sets of cheap crimping pliers from Harbor freight and cut the nose off. The mail side of the die should probably be eased a bit on the edges to keep the bead from looking lumpy, but you have plenty of leverage and a bead just about the right size for the job.  https://www.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-half-inch-wire-crimping-tool-36411.html

Not sure if anyone else has looked into this, but some folks have put a fair bit of effort into figuring out how to retrofit salvaged electric power steering units into cars which didn't come with them originally. This retrofit seems to be particularly interesting to people who build cars which use the Bendix ram-based steering assist system.  Some of the columns only work in cars with modern, Canbus-wired electrical system, but some of them work without Canbus or a VSS speed signal.  This first video is a look at some units which work without access to computer control.  

Here's a bench test of a salvage unit and a partial disassembly of the system to show how it works. A torsion bar in the column operates a pair of magnetic rings to sense when torque is being applied through the steering wheel.

Now, as to how to splice one of these setups into the middle of a steering column. Several options are considered here, but I'm scratching my head a little. Surely there must be ways to do this that don't involve welding steering shafts, wouldn't you think?  

Here it is installed in the car.  

If you'd prefer to see this stuff on a page (and I do) the same guy has posted his information on a couple of forums.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1848775-35-electric-power-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-no-caster-issues.html

Here's another take on the same Toyota Prius unit built into a full column instead of turning it into a column with no tube at the bottom. As it notes in here you need to use a modern wheel alignment with plenty of caster to make sure the steering self centers properly. This guy also built into a steering quickener.

Unlike the other guy this one is using the entire Prius upper column, which gets you a tilt/telescope column in the process.

Here's a bloke who made some nifty, 3d printed parts to put it all together.  

I saw this in a YouTube video. It's a 1989 Dodge Shadow rear spoiler on a Ford Maverick. I love this look, but is it OK for the spoiler to cross the trunk gap over the fenders like this? If needed, what would you use to pad the fenders so they don't get all marked up?

I admit that I'm a bit puzzled, though. The Shadow has a deck lid gap which runs front to rear, or said another way the lid is square. Same for the Maverick deck lid...so why does it look like this? Maybe it's a urethane part and they've pulled the ends of the "horseshoe" apart to make it fit the contour of the Maverick?

I just ran across a reference to lowering a car by flipping just the second leaf, placing it so it opposes the arch of the main leaf and they compress opposite each other. Evidently it lowers the suspension some while also softening the spring rate. This one is new to me. Has anyone tried it? Any down sides?

I found a pretty good and detailed illustration about reading plugs.

I have questions about rod ends in street use.

How long can they be expected to last?

How often do they need to be cleaned and lubricated?

What about seals? Here's a page with a couple of options, one for a washer with flexible seal attached, or a full boot to go over the entire joint like overshoes  https://sealsit.com/product-category/rod-end-boot-rod-end-seal/

The same outfit carries an elastomeric rod end, effectively a rod end body with rubber in the middle that's high durometer with much less volume of rubber than a conventional rubber bushing, shaped to allow the flexing of a heim joint. Thoughts on this setup? Anyone used them?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-sf1010r
https://www.onedirt.com/news/new-products/summit-racing-now-offering-seals-it-sealflex-elastomer-rod-ends/

I'm not shilling for Seals-it, just ran across all these different options from one company. I'm sure there are other options for suppliers. Here's a video which discusses all of them.  

Maybe this method has been discussed before, if so I don't remember it.

Anyone here used ketchup for rust remover?

A couple of months ago I accidentally left a pair of wire cutters on the edge of the roof for two nights. Thankfully I went back up there again or they'd be hopelessly rusted before I found them. I did a quick Google and came up with something I'd never heard of before...coat them with a thick layer of ketchup and wrap them in aluminum file. A couple of hours later rub the steel with fresh foil for a couple of minutes, then rinse clean and oil for protection.

I was quite impressed with the results. It hadn't rained and wasn't overly humid, but there was some bright orange rust on the tool. This took it all off.

Yesterday I had cause to grab an 8oz machinist's hammer I've had for years. It belonged to my wife's grandfather, but before I started using it the hammer lived for quite a few years in a box of tools stored in a dirt crawlspace. As a result it was perfectly usable but it had a significant coat of rust on most of the head, less on the face and the ball peen.

I processed this one twice, 4hrs total. Afterward there are some dark pits, but a fair bit of raw steel showing as well. Oil for the head, butcher block oil on the handle and back in the box.

This works because the acid in the ketchup and the presence of dissimilar metals converts iron oxide to iron acetate, loosening it from the underlying steel so it can be washed away. Ketchup is a paste, obviously, so it stays where you put it instead of running off or drying too quickly when wrapped in foil.

I hope someone finds this helpful.

This looked pretty interesting...before I got to the $11,000 price tag...without controllers and batteries. It seems like at some point some sort of electric swap parts have to be developed. At some point conversion to electric daily drivers is going to accelerate. When that happens it's only a matter of time before fuel for the big V8s we love might start to become harder to find. https://www.motortrend.com/news/tesla-crate-motor-ev-conversion-small-block-v-8/

I've got a pretty good handle on how bump steer works on conventional center link systems and racks which have tie rods which come off the ends of the rack. I'm a little surprised to find out I can't find much on how center take off racks like Chevy Cavalier or Dodge Intrepid affect bump steer. Any thoughts on that?

Can you thread a .704" bar, or is this too far between sizes?

Add another "never gonna happen" to my list. I want to own something which could fit an 8 into 1 collector just to listen to this sound:  

Is this a new direction from Ford...a pushrod V8! In fact, the first production pushrod V8 from Ford in over 20 years.

The new 7.3L Ford gas engine is decidedly not a performance car engine...but it could be. People have already built this thing out to almost 600hp naturally aspirated, over 700hp supercharged. It weighs...a bunch.

But it's 6" narrower than a Coyote engine. Give it some heads that can breathe to 7,000rpm along with optimized intake and you could make incredible power in a package which would be much easier to package. Perhaps use the same architecture in a low deck block which doesn't have the capacity to go all the way out to 500 cubic inches. Suddenly you have small block/big block variants which could share a lot of parts, and a shorter deck height combined with an aluminum block could put the weight very similar to the Coyote.

I think the Ford OHC engines have done very well. A properly hopped up Mustang will flatten your eyeballs and they'll last 200,000 miles easy. They're also expensive to manufacture, expensive to hot rod, and take up a ton of space. Given the success GM and Chrysler have had with pushrod V8s of modern architecture, could Ford be rethinking their approach to engine architecture?

Someone is already building one in a Fox Body Mustang.  https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/car-technology/a30753008/fords-73-liter-v-8-can-make-600-naturally-aspirated-horsepower-with-basic-mods/

Being a lazy Sunday morning I found myself wondering why the difference between Ford 260/289/302/FE/Lima big block firing order and the 351 firing order. The 351 firing order is also used on 5.0 HO engines and Ford eventually switched to the 351 firing order in all 5.0 engines. When you adjust for cylinder numbering conventions the 351 firing order also matches the LS and sbc 4-7, 2-3 swap. The Flathead, Coyote, and sbc 4-7 swaps are also a match.

If anyone is interested, here's a link. Bottom line...in a near-stock application it probably doesn't make a bit of difference. In an engine that's built to really scream the 351 and Coyote firing orders can exhibit marginal improvements in crank vibration and rear cylinder cooling. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/firing-order-swaps-whats-best-for-your-engine/

This one was new to me, has anyone tried it? Poly bushings are famous for squeaks. This claims you can keep the squeak away on a long term basis with a wrap of teflon tape before applying silicone grease.

&feature=youtu.be

The "new Mustang" is an all-electric crossover SUV.

They're going to keep the current, S550 Mustang in production as well, but it won't be replaced until somewhere in the 2026-29 range.

I was raised in a Ford family, but I've lost all respect for the company. All of it.  https://jalopnik.com/2020-ford-mustang-mach-e-heres-the-car-price-and-0-60-1839875945

I'm not sure what I'm missing, but without a doubt there's something going on with my 2007 Focus.
--Charge light comes on about 20 seconds after starting.
--I've cleaned the battery terminals...they were due.
--Voltage shows 12.2v when the ignition is off, 14.8v when the engine is running when checked at the battery posts.
--No apparent symptoms of low voltage. The starter spins over well, the lights are bright, stepping on the brakes with the lights on doesn't dim the headlights.
--Battery was 4 years old in August, probably about ready for a new one. I'm guessing this is the issue but I don't want to buy a battery just to find out.

I'm sort of throwing a thought experiment out here, but I couldn't think of a place with a better group of grass roots builders and fabricators. I hope the topic interests someone.

Falcon-bodies Fords don't seem to have strut rod eliminators unless the car is built with an MII suspension. Lots of work and a pretty significant amount of money for little gain in geometry. Except, of course, that the strut rod bushings lead to a significant amount of caster change under braking.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPhRhZYLTpI

NOT the best setup for handling. Polyurethane strut rod bushings are out there, but they have a reputation for breaking strut rods because the durometer is too high. The strut rod can't pivot at its attachment but is forced to bend in the area of the threads closest to the lower control arm. The solution is strut rods with ball joint ends. They're out there, but they're pretty pricey. Oh, and as you can see they have no boots to keep water and dirt out.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/total-control-products-adjustable-strut-rod-with-pivot-joint-pair-1967/p/TCPSTRD06SVH/

The high price of units like these leads people to look for lower priced alternatives. Nothing wrong with that, obviously. Most of them adapt heim joints to the end of a shortened strut rod. Not a bad solution. The mounts for the original strut rods surround them on 3 sides, so the bolts can be in double shear. Normally they're installed with the pivot bolts either just ahead or behind where the stock bushings are sandwiched in double shear. Again, sealing from dirt and water is an issue. The setup looks like this:


What other alternatives might be out there? The CJ Pony Parts units look a lot like a rebuildable inner tie rod end from a rack and pinion setup. Would such a tie rod end be strong enough for the forces involved? Oh...and it needs a boot.


Here's another possibility, but I have reservations. This is a spherical plain bearing (basically a rod end) with a mounting plate. I'm not sure what to call this for search purposes, but my biggest concern is if it's OK to put the loads required on this unit. I know I'm being redundant, but obviously this isn't sealed.
https://www.vintageraceworks.com/products/spherical-strut-rods

My own thinking on the subject leads me to something else. Maybe adapt an outer tie rod end. It would point up and socket into an appropriate tapered mount like you'd use for a radius rod.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Frame-Mount-Plate-for-Tie-Rod-Ends-Pair,215975.html?sku=916031015&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjwibzsBRAMEiwA1pHZrnALd1oPv5OhcjBhuV1R-4BVn08D2X7XJwRDm8DqWaqsFYxJddNGAhoCuGUQAvD_BwE

What would you do to plug access holes in the underbody which have to be there, but you want to seal them from the weather? Examples might be access to seat mounts through a double floor, tank-mounted fuel pumps from the trunk, or potentially shock mounts.

I'm getting ready for another move. This time my work is transferring my job to Suffolk, VA. It's a good company and a good job, and I'm going to go for it. I guess it's working out that we didn't buy when we moved down from Des Moines.

We need to make some decisions on what to take and what to leave. My big compressor runs a 3hp continuous duty motor which I believe to be far larger than necessary for the compressor, a 2 cylinder, 2 stage inline. Previously I had it wired for 230v but the motor can be wired for 115v. It never labored to restart, never even perceptibly dimmed the lights at any time.

Would it be a good idea to try to run this thing on 115v, or will the amperage draw be too great?

More and more late models use structural (or other) panel adhesive in various places. These applications often use rivets at the ends of adhesive runs to prevent peeling, as the product is weak in that failure mode. I realize that OEM-certified repairs can be very specific in their requirements, but is there anything special about these rivets? Or is it a matter of just making sure the fastener is sufficient to prevent the beginning of a peel?

When I had my 1969 Cougar just about the only thing I really disliked about it was the Bendix ram-based power steering. The things hang down low under the car, always seem to leak, and use a slow steering box by today's standards. Borgeson has an integrated power steering box to replace the manual box which resides on all these cars...with or without power steering. It's almost certainly a box factory built for something else with the original mounts cut off and a new mounting plate tacked on. Two questions:

1) Any idea what this fits originally?
2) Is the original ford unit likely to have different pitman arm splines?

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1660&cat=126&page=1

Maybe it started out as this one, meant to fit a 1999-2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee?

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Steering-Gearbox-Grand-Cherokee/dp/B00ZASNZTU/ref=asc_df_B00ZASNZTU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312695966306&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14601758652902244818&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023228&hvtargid=pla-581210105227&psc=1

The pic is way too small but I like the application. Does anyone recognize these?  https://i.pinimg.com/originals/cc/59/12/cc5912a57cb99aec693459a405dc70aa.jpg

Has anyone seen a car or truck retrofitted with a Ford Explorer IRS? They use an 8.8" center section and mount on a subframe, but decent information on the internet has burned out to be hard to come by.

I ask this in part because IRS has always been a little trick, partly because it's a width that ought to work under a lot of cars, partly because the last live axle Explorers were built quite a while back at this point.

We're going to be in Austin, TX the last weekend in August, Dallas Mon/Tue/Wed nights, and Shreveport for about 3 days after that. Does anyone have recommendations of what to do in those areas?

Anyone going? I didn't expect to go, but I'll be there on Saturday.

Anyone going on the Power Tour?

Anyone know anything about spectator attendance at Arrowhead in Kansas City?

What's the axle diameter across the bearing seat of an 8" Ford v a 9" Ford rear?

Hoping someone with good sources can tell me if there's a service bulletin or recall on air blend door actuators for the 2014 Ford Fiesta. It doesn't look like something I can't do, but tearing things apart without a garage is going to be real iffy. Just to confirm, this noise is directly behind the center vent/radio area of the dash and sounds EXACTLY like this and other online videos of the issue.  

Sometimes you just wander into stuff. This time it started with the wire hose clamps which were common on '60s and 70's American cars from the factory. I remember them working well, but where usually replaced with worm gear clamps the first time the hose was changed.

From there I found the Clamptite tool. Has anyone here used it? The thing looks pretty clever...use the wingnut to tighten the wire over the hose barb, then the tool becomes a lever to kink the wire and keep it tight. Cut the wires, bend them back on themselves and push them as even with the surface of the hose as possible to minimize the potential to bite you later. If you use a fair number of hose clamps it could pay off, though the tool isn't cheap for something so small and simple at $34-$40 online and I question if it might be hard to get sufficient tension with a wingnut for tension and two little pins to hold onto so it doesn't twist.  http://www.gemplers.com/product/HC8/clamptite-tool-standard-4-3-4?gclid=Cj0KEQiAperBBRDfuMf72sr56fIBEiQAPFXszWiP77C7cy8Ll1PH7lBDNcQ5sDxQb-NC83LXqa4R84waAleF8P8HAQ&CID=25SEPLA&s_kwcid=AL!3210!3!51404445385!!!g!146113426105!&ef_id=V8uRugAABShq2ti4:20161127224414:s

Then I found this method of making exactly the same sort of clamp using a pop rivet tool. The wires would be more or less automatically bent to a 90 degree angle to hold them for final installation, the pop rivet tool should be able to easily get whatever tension you want, and almost everyone has a pop rivet tool laying around somewhere.  http://www.instructables.com/id/Wire-Hose-Clamp/?ALLSTEPS

It's been too long since I've had anything to contribute, but I'll give it a shot. If anyone needs a set of Ford pickup/van hubcaps I know someone with a set in almost perfect shape and they can be had for the cost of shipping. They've just been sitting in the garage for years, and if no one wants them they'll be set out on the curb to see if anyone picks them up. Let me know if you're interested.

Hi folks. Haven't been around much because I've got a new project going. I'm starting up a private fleet for the company I've been working for since moving to Kansas City.  Woof, lotta work in that.

Anyway, I have a birthday coming up. Any thoughts on this buffer? http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html

I just happened upon this while hopping around the internet. It's a new fuel pickup sock from Holley which features a construction making it very difficult to pick up air. This looks like a great product for EFI retrofits or custom tanks for EFI applications. There are a lot of different products to either fit an anti-slosh reservoir within the main tank or place a small draw tank under the hood for the EFI system. Most of those solutions are a lot of work or a lot more expensive than this.

http://bangshift.com/general-news/new-products/must-see-holley-just-changed-fuel-system-game-big-way/
https://www.holley.com/news/articles/holley_debuts_new_hydramat_fuel_reservoir/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-16-105?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjwsvmvBRCT5ozK-dmY7D4SJACyIoJmdtxvjawpzbBFjTy5qz7Ds6CS0eK1YcRRIHkTzs6rjxoCqQzw_wcB

I'm still learning the car culture here in Kansas City, but managed to find a car show for Labor Day weekend. Rat rods and rockabilly culture aren't normally my thing, but I knew I'd have a great time anyplace I could find people to talk cars, listen to some exhaust sound, and stare at some interesting wheels.

I missed the big day on Saturday, but that's how it goes. Here's one that was interesting. Not traditional, but quite unique. I had to ask, the engine is a Jaguar V12.

Indycar driver Justin Wilson was airlifted to a hospital after being hit in the head by the nosecone of a crashed car today at Pocono Raceway. As of approximately 7:20 EDT the latest report is that Ryan Hunter Reay was told Wilson is unconscious and unresponsive.

Any recommendations for the best choice in a new cordless drill? It's time for a new one. My Firestorm variable speed drill smells like ozone whenever it's used (always a sign of a power tool on borrowed time) and I'm down to one battery which will hold a charge.

Which one would you buy?

Someone put up a link a few months ago to the Beast of Turin (Fiat) being refired for the first time in decades. Here it is letting a driver and ride-along mechanic know it could kill them at any time.  https://vimeo.com/122644105

Can anyone identify where else these ends might be used? They're nice but it's hard for me to think they're custom built and available only from Ridetech, and they seem a bit...pricey.
http://www.ridetech.com/store/musclebar-swaybar/posi-links-components/