Topics

turn on the TV  a huge earthquake hit japan...

the tsumami is live on tv right now....

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/1004dp_capstone_cmt_380_diesel_electric_supercar/index.html


some of you will recognize capstone as a power generator supplier..

they have also used them to power transit busses...

http://www.gmphotostore.com/Fabulous-Fins/products/1237/



http://www.gmphotostore.com/Lets-Go-Racing/products/1241/



http://www.gmphotostore.com/Neon-Dealer-Signs/products/1280/


http://www.gmphotostore.com/Under-the-Hood/products/1247/


http://www.gmphotostore.com/Concept-Vehicles/products/1238/


http://www.gmphotostore.com/Cadillac/departments/1005/


and lots more....


how about some wall papers..

http://www.hotrod.com/wallpapers/muscle_car_hot_rod_desktops/index.html

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/wallpaper/rc_freestuff/index.html

http://www.carcraft.com/multimedia/car_wallpaper/index.html

http://www.superchevy.com/wallpapers/cool_wallpapers/index.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/wallpaper/index.html

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/multimedia/gm_car_wallpaper/index.html

http://www.vetteweb.com/freestuff/vemp_1009w_chevy_corvette_free_computer_desktop_wallpapers/index.html

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/freestuff/mopp_0506_desktop_wallpapers/index.html

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/freestuff/index.html

http://www.mustangandfords.com/freestuff/mufp_0506w_desktops_wallpapers/index.html

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/freestuff/wallpapers/mmfp_wallpaper/index.html

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/freestuff/cool_wallpapers/index.html

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/freestuff/index.html

http://www.circletrack.com/multimedia/wallpaper/ctrp_0908_circle_track_wallpapers/index.html

http://www.eurotuner.com/freestuff/eurp_1008_eurotuner_wallpaper_freestuff/index.html

http://www.trucktrend.com/multimedia/wallpaper/index.html

http://www.importtuner.com/wallpapers/index.html

http://www.turbomagazine.com/freestuff/index.html


happy full hard drives....

[DO NOT CLICK ON OK .... DO NOT CLICK ON SETTINGS.. force quit... or unplug..]

virus warning...   do not open any search finds at answers.com..

you may see this..

 DO NOT CLICK ON  OK .... DO NOT CLICK ON SETTINGS..   force quit... or unplug..


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~




do not click on it.. force quit your browser...

if you get 2 boxes open..  and that does happen...

it prevented me from force quitting.. i had to unplug the computer to stop the installation...

i got this stupid thing last week... it corrupted my flash player... so i could not get to the setting manager...

http://www.macromedia.com/support/documentation/en/flashplayer/help/settings_manager07.html

it actually pasted a flash player image over the settings manager window... so you cannot do anything.. it also changed all the flash player flies to alias and hid the originals...  

i called adobe last week...  they have taken the ...... no more software for anything but dual core macs...

i know that this is not the proper place for this..  but i thought i would post it here as its important... since we are all computer users...

this probably won't help a LOT of rodders right away.. but i bet it clears up some confusion when looking through a box of relays...  i wonder what this relay does...    look it up by terminal numbers...   might help figure out what it does and what voltage or signal should be where

might also make it easy to use 87 VW cabriolet fuel pump relays to control the electric fuel pumps in rods...  so the fuel pump relay is triggered by the pulsing negative side of the coil circuit also...  to keep it active.....

just printing the list below... and taping it inside a cabinet in the garage will be a life saver at some time in the future for the lucky few...

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/042003_07.pdf  





1 . . . . . . . . . . .Ignition Coil, Distributor
Low-Tension Circuit
Ignition Distributor With Two Insulated Circuits
1a . . . . . . . . . .to Ignition Point Set I
1b . . . . . . . . . .to Ignition Point Set II
Ignition Coil, Distributor
4 . . . . . . . . . . . High-Tension Circuit
Ignition Distributor With Two Insulated Circuits
4a . . . . . . . . . .Terminal 4, from Coil I
4b . . . . . . . . . .Terminal 4, from Coil II
15 . . . . . . . . . .Switch-Controlled Positive Downstream from Battery
(from Ignition Switch)
15a . . . . . . . . .In-Line Resistor Terminal Leading to Coil & Starter
Glow-Plug Switch
17 . . . . . . . . . .Start
19 . . . . . . . . . .Preglow
30 . . . . . . . . . .Line from Battery Positive Terminal (Direct)
31 . . . . . . . . . .Return Line from Battery Negative Terminal
or Ground (Direct)
31b . . . . . . . . .Return Line to Battery Negative Terminal or Ground Via
Switch or Relay (Switch-Controlled Ground)
Electric Motors
32 . . . . . . . . . .Return Line*
33 . . . . . . . . . .Main Connection*
33a . . . . . . . . .Self-Parking Switch-Off
33b . . . . . . . . .Shunt Field
33f . . . . . . . . .for Reduced-RPM Operation, Speed 2
33g . . . . . . . . .for Reduced-RPM Operation, Speed 3
33h . . . . . . . . .for Reduced-RPM Operation, Speed 4
33L . . . . . . . . .Rotation to Left (Counterclockwise)
33R . . . . . . . . .Rotation to Right (Clockwise)
*Polarity Reversal of 32/32 Possible
Starter
45 . . . . . . . . . .Separate Starter Relay, Output: Starter;
Input: Primary Current
Flasher Relay (Pulse Generator)
51 . . . . . . . . . .Input
49a . . . . . . . . .Output
49b . . . . . . . . .Output to Second Flasher Relay
49c . . . . . . . . .Output to Third Flasher Relay
Battery Switching Relay
50a . . . . . . . . .Output for Starter Control
Start-Locking Relay
50e . . . . . . . . .Input
50f . . . . . . . . .Output
Start-Repeating Relay
50g . . . . . . . . .Input
50h . . . . . . . . .Output
AC Generator (Alternator)
51 . . . . . . . . . .DC Voltage at Rectifier
51e . . . . . . . . .DC Voltage at Rectifier with Choke Coil
for Daylight Operation
Starter
52 . . . . . . . . . .Starter Control (Direct)
53 . . . . . . . . . .Wiper Motor, Input (+)
53a . . . . . . . . .Wiper (+), End Position
53b . . . . . . . . .Wiper (Shunt Winding)
53c . . . . . . . . .Electric Windshield Washer Pump
53e . . . . . . . . .Wiper (Brake Winding)
53i . . . . . . . . .Wiper Motor with Permanent Magnet & Third Brush
(for Higher Speed)
55 . . . . . . . . . .Front Fog Lamp
56 . . . . . . . . . .Headlights
56a . . . . . . . . .High Beam with Indicator Lamp
56b . . . . . . . . .Low Beam
56d . . . . . . . . .Headlight Flasher Contact
57 . . . . . . . . . .Parking Lamps (in some export markets)
57a . . . . . . . . .Parking Lamps
57L . . . . . . . . .Parking Lamps, Left
57R . . . . . . . . .Parking Lamps, Right
WIRING TERMINAL DESIGNATIONS
Terminal Definition Terminal Definition

58 . . . . . . . . . .Side-Marker Lamps, Taillamps, License Plate
& Instrument Illumination
58d . . . . . . . . .Rheostatic Instrument Illumination, Tail- & Side-Marker Lamps
58L . . . . . . . . .Left
58R . . . . . . . . .Right, License Plate Lamps
AC Generator (Alternator)
(Magneto Generator)
59 . . . . . . . . . .AC Voltage Output, Rectifier Input
59a . . . . . . . . .Charging-Armature Output
59b . . . . . . . . .Taillamp Armature, Output
59c . . . . . . . . .Stop-Lamp Armature, Output
61 . . . . . . . . . .Charge Indicator Lamp
Tone-Sequence Controller
71 . . . . . . . . . .Input
71a . . . . . . . . .Output to Horns I & II (Bass)
71b . . . . . . . . .Output to Horns 1 & 2 (Treble)
75 . . . . . . . . . .Radio, Cigarette Lighter
76 . . . . . . . . . .Speakers
77 . . . . . . . . . .Door Valve Control
Switches, Normally Closed (NC) Contacts & Changeover Contacts
81 . . . . . . . . . .Input
81a . . . . . . . . .First Output on NC-Contact Side
81b . . . . . . . . .Second Output on NC-Contact Side (NO Contacts)
82 . . . . . . . . . .Input
82a . . . . . . . . .First Output
82b . . . . . . . . .Second Output
82z . . . . . . . . .First Input
82y . . . . . . . . .Second Input
Multiple-Position Switch
83 . . . . . . . . . .Input
83a . . . . . . . . .Output (Pos. 1)
83b . . . . . . . . .Output (Pos. 2)
83L . . . . . . . . .Output (Left)
83R . . . . . . . . .Output (Right)
Current Relay
84 . . . . . . . . . .Input: Actuator & Relay Contacts
84a . . . . . . . . .Output: Actuators
84b . . . . . . . . .Output: Relay Contacts
Switching Relay
85 . . . . . . . . . .Output: Actuator (Negative Winding End or Ground)
Input: Actuator
86 . . . . . . . . . .Start of Winding
86a . . . . . . . . .Start of Winding or First Winding Coil
86b . . . . . . . . .Winding Tap or Second Winding Coil
Normally Closed (NC) Relay Contact & Changeover Contacts
87 . . . . . . . . . .Input
87a . . . . . . . . .First Output (NC-Contact Side)
87b . . . . . . . . .Second Output
87c . . . . . . . . .Third Output
87z . . . . . . . . .First Input
87y . . . . . . . . .Second Input
87x . . . . . . . . .Third Input
Normally Open (NO) Relay Contact
88 . . . . . . . . . .Input
88z . . . . . . . . .First Input
88y . . . . . . . . .Second Input
88x . . . . . . . . .Third Input
Normally Open (NO) Relay Contact & Changeover Contacts (NO Side)
88a . . . . . . . . .First Output
88b . . . . . . . . .Second Output
88c . . . . . . . . .Third Output
Generator/Alternator & Voltage Regulator
B  . . . . . . . . .Battery Positive Terminal
B  . . . . . . . . .Battery Negative Terminal
D  . . . . . . . . .Generator Positive Terminal
C  . . . . . . . . .Generator Negative Terminal
DF . . . . . . . . . .Generator Field Winding
DF1 . . . . . . . . .Generator Field Winding 1
DF2 . . . . . . . . .Generator Field Winding 2
Alternator
U, V, W . . . . . .Three-Phase Terminals
Turn Signals (Turn-Signal Flasher)
C . . . . . . . . . . .Indicator Lamp 1
C0 . . . . . . . . . .Main Terminal Connection for Indicator Lamp Not
Connected to Turn-Signal Flasher
C2 . . . . . . . . . .Indicator Lamp 2
L . . . . . . . . . . .Left-Side Turn Signals
R . . . . . . . . . . .Right-Side Turn Signals

i don't know why.. but i though about one of  my auto shop teachers..

took at look around the web.. found this article on his car from the mid 60s to the early 70's...

roger gates was one of my auto shop teachers along with monte wolfe in 78 and 79...   i learned a huge amount from them during that year in autoshop...  oh.. not the average auto shop class.. this was 8 to 3 daily...

both are members of the 200 MPH club...

a lot more stuff to surf through on this find..

http://www.cacklefest.com/Gates.shtml


enjoy.....

more here and at the bottom of every page..

http://www.cacklefest.com/CF_history.shtml

this is the best GM tilt column with dimmer switch operated by the turn slgnal lever i have seen...

they went as far as doing cut a ways to show hidden features..


http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088020.html

just ran across this .... an interesting read .......  enjoy...

just call it a shot across the bow

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/turp_0902_shot_peening_wpc_treatment/index.html

i ran across this by accident...  i do very little welding..  but the info for those who do looks important...   it could all be c r a p.   if so the moderators will kindly remove this thread..   place it in the slag heap...


wayne..

http://www.weldreality.com/spray_transfer_above100.htm


do post your thoughts on this offsite subject...

i know that a hand full of you have the LARGE frame english wheels..

has anybody thought about building a bead rolling attachment for it...  that use  a big C shaped guide bar for steering the bead rolling upper and lower dies    so one could roll big panels deep into the panel...     using some kind of hydraulic gear reduction motor to power one of the wheels.. perhaps one of the steering control valves to control the forward and backward of the gear motor ...

this is just a thought.... i was looking at glens build and noticed in one photo that the floor panels were not installed.. i was thinking of how they might be easier to install a double layer version.. one for the drivers and passengers foot well....   the main sections under the car... on the outside of the tube chassis...    all held on with quick release fasteners.. keeping all the bottom of the car chassis tubes out of the wind stream..

but then i come up with weird ideas like the dual layer rear spoiler... with opening into the trunk... so the air flowing over the tip of the spoiler pulls air out from the trunk area .. or as my original idea was for a funny car body.. as that would reduce the amount of air trapped under the body...  the only problem with the funny car application would be the peacock tail of flames if there is ever a fireball..  

another idea .. that probably would work.. up in flames...

i ran across this company a long time ago.. have not seen the current catalog.. thought it might help a few


Suspension International Parts
8280 Northwest 66th Street
Miami, FL 33166-2720
(305) 592-8709

edit .. they showed some parts like control arms that were hard to find earlier... now they are just hard to find in their catalog...

they also seem to make items like pitman arms...

http://www.sipcontrolarms.com/index.php  

i posted it here as there are TOO many webbots... searching everything...

i ran across a thread on another board i visit... looking for the TINY bulbs that are socketed and mounted into circuit boards... i am not talking about the 194 bulbs in the back of instrument clusters but the same design.. but smaller...  they are found in various automotive devices.. like car stereos... heater control panels..  after market gauges...

unedited text from other forum post below... including a link to see what i am talking about..












there are several socket mounted bulbs....

here is one that is slightly smaller than the PC74

http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/i%7c14v%7c1.4w%7cnw%7ct1.5%7c10000h%5e5021nw~usa.html



I / 14V / 1.4W / NW / T1.25 / 10000H 4186NW USA
I / 14V / 1.4W / NW / T1.5 / 10000H 5021NW USA (this bulb)
I / 14V / 1.4W / NW / T1.75 / 10000H 2162NW USA
I / 14V / 1.4W / NW / T1.75 / RELAMPABLE PC74R USA
I / 14V / 1.4W / NW / T1.75 PC38 USA
I / 14V / 1.4W / NW / T1.75 PC74 USA

the T1.25 and T1.5s are smaller than the T1.75 bulbs..........................


the T1.25 is a variant of a PCH51 8


I/14V/0.04A/PCB/T1.25
I/14V/0.04A/PCB/T1.25/16000H
PC-H-51-6
PC-H-51-7
PC-H-51-8
PC-H51-6
PC-H51-7
PC-H51-8
PC/H/51/6
PC/H/51/7
PC/H/51/8
PC H 51 6
PC H 51 7
PC H 51 8
PCH51-6
PCH51-6/14V/0.04A
PCH51-7
PCH51-7/14V/0.04A
PCH51-8
PCH51-8/14V/0.04A
PCH51/6
PCH51/7
PCH51/8
PCH51 6
PCH51 7
PCH51 8


the T1.5 bulb is going to be a variant of of a

I/14V/0.04A/PCB/T1.5
I/14V/0.04A/PCB/T1.5/16000H
PC-H-61-6
PC-H-61-7
PC-H-61-8
PC-H61-6
PC-H61-7
PC-H61-8
PC/H/61/6
PC/H/61/7
PC/H/61/8
PC H 61 6
PC H 61 7
PC H 61 8
PCH61-6
PCH61-6/14V/0.04A
PCH61-7
PCH61-7/14V/0.04A
PCH61-8
PCH61-8/14V/0.04A
PCH61/6
PCH61/7
PCH61/8
PCH61 6
PCH61 7
PCH61 8

hope this helps...


edit...

PC74 bulbs   is the larger size... or bulb number 2162NW
PC61 bulbs   is the middle size   or bulb number 5021NW
PC51 bulbs... is the smallest    or bulb number 4186NW

warning... there are LOTs of variations...  and i cannot tell exactly which bulb you have... or need... most should have some kind of part number marked somewhere on it...   if you can remove it..   and remove a good one.. OHM it..  write it down.. measure the bulb height and diameter...    with a lens.. look at the filament design.. draw a picture of the filament design..  there are pictures of the different designs on dons bulbs link above...

http://auto.ocregister.com/2011/01/04/update-stolen-trailer-found-missing-hot-rod-like-a-fugitive-now/48872/



http://abclocal.go.com/kabc/story?section=news/local/orange_county&id=7878053




it seems to be time to start using tandem axle wheel locks on car trailers...  the nice ones that clamp between the tires...

its also time... to start painting the trailer license numbers on the roofs of the trailers...

might even be time.. for trailers ... some kind of wheel lock...  slips in through a hole in the wheel to catch a caliper... so the trailer cannot be rolled .

perhaps... some kind of of locking bar.. that slips through 2 wheels and then tightens together ... that would be faster... it could be on one axle...  like a wide denver boot... when not in use.. stored across the front of the trailer tongue...

even a pair of steel rods...  with a loop on the top of each one... shove it through 2 different holes in the wheel... so it spreads out...  use something like an 800 series american lock on the ring end...

its snowing ... come in warm up... enjoy this...  

i saw this link on another forum.. decided to take a look... i think you will enjoy it...

http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/announcements/12846-1969-delta-police-car-story-lees-summit-mo.html

there seem to be several more... similar ...

found some really off the wall stuff on this guys blog..

http://var1016.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2010-01-01T00%3A00%3A00%2B01%3A00&updated-max=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00%2B01%3A00&max-results=12


even some vintage footage from the great past..

you might have to right click in his blog on the video links and select play on youtube to watch them...

don't miss the W 9 in the  2008 archive

http://var1016.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2008-01-01T00%3A00%3A00%2B01%3A00&updated-max=2009-01-01T00%3A00%3A00%2B01%3A00&max-results=50

http://abclocal.go.com/kabc/video?id=7838080

seems there is a rash of 57 to 60 classic chevys being stolen in the san fernando valley...

i bet that pickup truck gets found quick...


perhaps its time for parking brake locks...

steering wheel locks...

perhaps designing a hex shape into the steering shaft... so when parked.. a custom lock could be installed to prevent straightening the wheels..

or the ultimate...    the variations of the denver boot

the last would be the frame machine pulling pots installed in the floor and the cars chained down...

i have a friend in the valley... who had them installed in the curb in front of his house.. to chain his classic mustangs down...

this was after they stole a twisted KR500 replica... it was a notch back with the full fiberglass shelby front end...

this might prove to be fun...


http://www.abbreviations.com/FORD

http://www.abbreviations.com/CHEVY

http://www.abbreviations.com/DODGE

put your own ideas ...

http://www.abbreviations.com

i ran into one... that was on so tight... that it would NOT budge... spread several of the imported stamped steel fan clutch wrenches.. and since i have not been able to find a 36MM combo wrench... easily... or an inch and 7/16 wrench...   and they are usually to long and hit the wiper motors on astro vans... i had this made....  

i had the local welding /fab shop use an oval punch to cut the sides of the opening.. just smaller than  36MM  so i could just come in and clean them up with my grinder...      i should have cut them with my own saw...

i did have the opening cut extra deep... so i was away from the edge and i would have more steel to stop it from spreading...

its made from 3/8 plate.. i don't know which one.. just scrap from the floor of the shop...

the oval angled hole is to latch over the pulley bolt...

i did make the handles a little long...  and i had to bend them with my foot.. but they worked out perfect...






i used the 36mm  axle nut  to check the fit...

many fan clutches are 36MM... some are 40MM...


i should also mention.. that the size of the wrench end ... keeps the holding tool from slipping off the head of the pulley bolt...

yes .. its a cobble... but it worked...


i love the size of the bead of the weld... i don't know what size the wire was... but the guy they got to weld it in the shop... was welding flanges to a 12" W beam for an earthquake retrofit...

i just thought i would share my cobble...


oh!!! yea... i really love soy sauce...

http://thereifixedit.failblog.org/2010/10/28/white-trash-repairs-historical-thursday-chrysler-air-raid-siren/#more-15967


there are enough hemi guys to enjoy this here...


the direct youtube video link but above has great images also..

holley carbs HOW TO VIDEOS..... great for late night...

be sure to scroll down..

there are tech videos on adjusting idle mixture, choke, flooding problems,


this one on how to adjust holley floats..

engine hesitation

rough idle and stalling

idle mixture screws

accelerator pump

accelerator pump cams

idle speed screw

using a vacuum gauge... to find problems...

and dozens more spread out through their site...

while looking for the oblong hole valve stems.. i ran across the CORE of the problem if you excuse my pun...

http://www.dillaircontrols.com/files/Valve%20Cores%20pg%2013.pdf



and the detail of what, when, where and why... in valve cores...

http://www.dillaircontrols.com/files/Valve%20Core%20Application%20Guide.pdf

notice the 8th one down..  the 100-gs.  just for compression testers..

i ask goodyear racing tires a question about nascar tires a while back.. if the valve stems were depressing and releasing air , do to the G forces from high speed rotation. the rep told me that a valve core is a valve core..

now i wonder..

i know that this might be an issue with salt flats racing..  so perhaps valve caps that can hold the pressure in might be used..  including during tire balancing..


this is the entire dill catalog with a bunch of interesting stuff..

http://www.dillaircontrols.com/files/2008%20Catalog.pdf

its only 30 pages and has the 2 pages above..  


enjoy...

post your thoughts on my thinking...

in case you missed it when it was published...


http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hdrp_0511_ford_flathead_engine/index.html

or you can just look at the pictures by starting here..

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hdrp_0511_ford_flathead_engine/photo_01.html


enjoy....

oh.. and don't forget.. you can click and open the pictures in a new window for a bigger picture to save...

wayne

http://machinedesign.com/article/grease-keeps-sleeve-bearings-lubricated-1007


text from link above...

Engineers must understand sleeve-bearing operation to specify the right grease for longer bearing life.

Grease is thickened oil. Sounds simple, right? But lubricating bearings with grease is much more complex than that, in both benefits and drawbacks.

Grease lubricates cast bronze, aluminum-bronze, or tin-bronze sleeve bearings up to 15 in. in size with surface speeds up to 20 fpm. The friction-modifying lubricant film it provides minimizes wear at low speeds, under shock loads, during start-and-stop cycling, and while reversing direction.

Grease is more stable, requires less maintenance, and leaks considerably less than conventional oils. It also lets users do away with elaborate oil-supply systems. And extreme-pressure and antiwear additives, as well as graphite and molybdenum-disulfide powders, are improving the performance of greases.

However, predicting the performance of grease-lubricated bearings is more complex than for their oil-lubricated counterparts. Grease has both solid and liquid phases, and engineers must consider both, as well as how they work together at specific temperatures and shear rates.

Grease behavior can be particularly hard to predict when the shaft or bearing undergoes low-amplitude oscillation. Due to its higher viscosity, grease may not get replenished as readily in the bearing load zone during oscillation, leading to wear particles, galling, scuffing, and fretting.

Grading greases

The National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) classifies greases into grades by stiffness from 000 to 6 where 6 is the stiffest. Stiffer greases are more mechanically stable under high shear forces and low speeds and under shock loads. However, the stiffer the grease, the harder it is to lubricate the bearing surface using channels from a central lubrication system.

Plain bearings usually use Grades 0 through 2. Softer grades, 0 and 1, are easier to feed to rows of machine elements, but offer less mechanical stability than Grade 2 grease. Nevertheless, they adhere to sleeve bearing surfaces and handle shear forces from oscillatory motion better than regular, unthickened oils.

Thickeners can give greases high dropping points — the temperatures at which they begin to drip and lose their ability to keep the oil phase in suspension and maintain higher apparent viscosity. Dropping-point ratings are higher than maximum operating temperatures because few greases recover their structural capabilities once cooled from the dropping point.

Thickeners, which usually make up about 10% of a grease by weight, may be simple or complex soaps or nonsoap based.

Simple soaps, formed by neutralizing a glycerine-organic acid complex with a base like lithium hydroxide, provide dropping points in the 180 to 190°C range. Complex soaps use both long and short-chain organic acids to get more cross-linking and higher dropping points of 240°C and above.

Fine clay particles or nonmelting organic powders like polyurea can replace soaps for a grease with no melting point for high temperature use.

While thickeners are limited by dropping points, the oil components of greases also suffer at high temperatures. Heat speeds oxidation and evaporation, eventually hardening the grease and increasing oil viscosity.

Temperatures like those encountered in arctic mining, around –50°C, on the other hand, increase greases' apparent viscosity, making rotation more difficult and boosting the torque required to start a machine. In addition, at low temperatures, greases can be too stiff to work with central lubrication systems to form a lubrication film on the bearing surface. Low-temperature limits for greases vary from –75 to 0°C, although the exact limit depends on the type of oil and, secondarily, the thickener content.

Low-viscosity synthetic oils — such as poly alphaolefins, esters, and highly refined American Petroleum Institute (API) Group 3 oils — with high viscosity indices (VIs) work best in these cold environments.

No matter the operating temperature, it is apparent viscosity that determines how well a grease will work. Grease is a non-Newtonian fluid, so its viscosity depends on both temperature and shear rate. And both oil and thickener phases contribute to total grease viscosity.

Choosing a target viscosity for plain bearings means balancing lubrication-system dispensing rates and the ability to form lubricating films. Lower-viscosity greases work better with central lubrication systems while higher-viscosity greases stay in place better to form lubricating films and reduce the bearings' contact with asperities, microscopic peaks on the shaft surface.

In practice, however, it is usually the central grease-lubrication system that sets the viscosity target. Oil-viscosity grades in the range of 150 to 460 cSt at 40°C are typical.

Because of these lower viscosities and the high rate of asperity contact in plain bearings, greases still need special additives to cut friction and control bushing wear, especially in oscillating applications. Engineers often turn to greases with higher viscosity base oils and with additives designed for extreme pressure, low speeds, high loads, oscillation, and high temperatures.

While engineers may choose oils and thickeners partly based on test and performance ratings, field experience is the ultimate guide to meeting load, speed, power loss, and temperature requirements.

Predicting performance

It's hard to generalize the performance characteristics of greased sleeve bearings. But, engineers can best estimate how bearings in one application will perform by looking at temperature, regreasing needs, torque, wear, load capacity, coefficient of friction, and temperature rise from similar bearings in other machines.

Load capacity is lost as shaft-surface sliding speed increases. W. A. Glaeser and K. F. Dufrane calculated that load capacity drops from 5,000 psi at 10 fpm to 1,000 psi at 20 fpm, based on projected bearing area at a maximum temperature of 300°F. For increased reliability, engineers should limit design loads on greased sleeve bearings to 250 to 500 psi.

Coefficients of friction in sleeve bearings vary widely depending on whether a full separating, or hydrodynamic, film of lubricant forms during operation. When it does, where there is a larger volume of grease or higher sliding speeds, coefficients of friction can fall in the 0.01 to 0.02 range.

However, in most applications that use grease, the shaft slides in its bearing bore too slowly to generate a hydrodynamic film.

In heavily loaded pin-bushing joints, for example, typical operating speed is under 10 rpm and the surfaces fall in the boundary lubrication regime where there is considerable asperity contact. Film thickness cannot accommodate the entire load. As a result, the friction coefficient is typically 0.08 to 0.16.

Excessive temperature rise is a major concern in any bearing. Overheating leads to excessive degradation of grease and premature scuffing failures. Heat generation is directly proportional to the product of coefficient of friction, load, and speed.

Extensive experimental bearing tests at the LSU Center for Rotating Machinery show that bearing temperature rises gradually to a steady level where the bearing operates satisfactorily. However, under severe operating conditions, like those with high loads and speeds, temperature increases exponentially over time until the bearing fails without ever reaching a steady-state temperature.

In oscillating bearings, the angle of oscillation, also called the swing angle, affects temperature. (See the accompanying diagram.) Increasing the oscillation angle by 10° boosts the steady-state temperature by 20°C.

Regreasing rates

High operating temperatures dry grease through evaporation and oxidation of the oil. Grease can also be lost by creep. In general, the higher the operating temperature, the more frequently bearing surfaces need to be regreased. For bearings with surface speeds above 10 to 20 fpm, engineers usually use continuous-feed systems to supply NLGI grade 00, 0, or 1 greases.

How do engineers determine the appropriate grease-feed rate? Here's an empirical relation to predict the right feed rate:

Q = 3.5 × 10-5 × L × D × N0.3

where L = bearing sleeve length in mm, D = bearing diameter in mm, and N = bearing speed in rpm.

For example, to calculate the required feed rate Q in cm3/hr of fluid grease for a 4-in.-long sleeve bearing with a 4-in. diameter (101.6-mm long × 101.6-in. diameter) operating at 200 rpm:

Q = 3.5 × 10-5 × 101.6 mm × 101.6 mm × 200 rpm0.3

Q = 1.8 cm3/hr = 0.11 in3/hr

For elevated temperatures, use the accompanying graph (See "Regreasing time versus operating temperature") to figure out the maximum operating time between regreasing. For example, a bearing working 8 hr/day may require weekly regreasing if the bearing temperature is about 220°F, but may only need to be regreased monthly if it operates at 100°F.

To confirm that these grease-feed rates are appropriate, an engineer might initially set the lubrication system to deliver 25 to 50% more grease. Then he can gradually reduce the feed rate while watching for an undesirable rise in friction or bearing temperature that would indicate a lower limit for the replenishment rate.

In addition to the feed rate, the bearing bore may need grooves to distribute the grease.

Axial grooves are common in continuous, unidirectional-motion applications. Central circumferential grooves help spread grease on oscillating bearings, especially where load direction varies. And figure-eight-shaped grooves are ideal for continuously rotating bearings under heavy loads.

Bearing suppliers can often recommend customized grooving for special applications.

http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f67/images-released-all-new-holden-barina-spark-shine-sydney-96330/


be sure to check out the neat speedo cluster...

i wonder if it could be driven off a small computer.. for rod installation...

might be something for the electronic engineers to work out...

some small PC or custom unit to drive it..  with easy hook up for the directional signals...  speedo input.. even if its GPS .. a tach input.. oil and water senders...


just an idea...

i was looking through some bookmarks..

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0909sr_building_a_custom_gas_tank/index.html

this is what got me thinking...

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0909sr_building_a_custom_gas_tank/photo_12.html

look at the this and the next few photos...

how the baffles are installed...  

most of you know i am a terrible back seat driver and others will realize i am a forward thinker...

my thinking...  the baffle sections need to be cut larger... and the edges rolled more than 90 degrees... so the edges of the baffle plates are have a J shape...   careful punching of holes before rolling will let the fabricator weld the baffles into position through the bottom of the J   this way.. there will not be any little tabs that can break off..

i think i would also position the tube thats installed through a hole in the baffle.. the hole bent to an angle to allow the tube to be supported tightly... instead of bracketed...

http://www.jpmagazine.com/featuredvehicles/154_1009_a_little_more_1977_jeep_cj7/photo_03.html

3 drive shaft hoops on just the front shaft...


i know its out of the normal line of stuff...

just saw this article.. and think about how popular that jeep automatics are..

one might want to spend a 2 or 3 minutes to review this.. and possibly save $300 bucks or more...

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0805_1987_2001_jeep_cherokee_neutral_safety_switch/index.html

some of you might really enjoy this..


http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ctrp_1010_smokey_yunick_1967_chevy_chevelle/index.html


seems there are more smokey articles in the right sidebar..


enjoy....

cleaning clogged fuel lines on older cars... until you can get a new line installed...

use a length of speedo cable core...

2 people and a variable speed drill....

one person at the open end of the disconnected at both ends fuel line...

shove the speedo cable core in as far as you can get it...

the other person with the variable speed drill chucked to the end of the speedo core...

have the drill driver start to turn slowly.. while keeping a light tension to keep the core from kinking, flopping... twisting..

the spiral winding of the core will work its way into the fuel line... if you keep some grip on the core as it spins..


this lets you snake out dirt and debris from the clogged fuel lines.  since the speedo cable core will go around corners..  it works SO much better than just jamming in coat hangers..

you might want to rig up some kind of spray can at the far end to wash out the line...


this is a sure way to clean out clogged fuel lines... that have been filled with sediment and rust..

the first car i did this to the lines were so clogged.. that i was able to pump the line down to 23 inches of vacuum .. and it held that vacuum for 45 seconds or so.. with the far end hooked to the pick up tube in the tank... this is why the car would run out of fuel if driven more than 25MPH...

i noticed this problem when i was doing a full flow fuel pump test... where the output of the fuel pump was directed at the carb end into a 2 liter plastic soda bottle...

the first 2 pulses from the pump were full.. then each one got smaller and smaller until they stopped..  while the engine was still cranking..

this told me i had a fuel supply problem..

saw this... figured its the hard way to grow a wood spoke wheel...

http://apod.nasa.gov/apod/image/1006/galacticeye_perrot_big.jpg




actually.. i should have posted this in the throne room...  perhaps somebody will move it in a 2 or 3  days...  when it gets a least a few views..

there are 4 pages and a bunch of pictures to this part 1

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_1002_four_speed_transmission/index.html

there are 4 parts to the story.. not just 4 pages..


part 2

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_1003_1974_trans_am_supermatic_transmission/index.html


part 3

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_1004_1974_pontiac_trans_am_transmission/index.html



here is part 4

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_1007_transmission_programming/index.html

i saw this and thought it might increase the knowledge of our group..

i was over on another forum...

i answered a question about front suspensions...

ran across this link...

http://www.texasmotorsfordparts.com/schematics/J/JA03080.gif

shows the 05 to 10 Crown Vic frame components..

item #5 is the part that a few people have been swapping onto trucks...

according to the web site.. i got the link from... item #5 is only 50 bucks..

Front c member    03-10   $67.55       $50.16

a cross member.. bare..  there are a lot of parts to bolt onto it..  but this would allow one to pick parts from several cars that might have damage to one side or the other..

or even from CV fleet parts suppliers..

this is just an idea...

i ran across this..i know that this odd knowledge will save somebody's weekend sometime in the future...

waynes question... for discussion .. i wonder if this cam when installed in earlier motors.. as it seems to fit.. might be like the cylinder swap used on small blocks to pick up a few horsepower..  hmm???



http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/74136/big_block_chevy_cam_identification.aspx

text from short article...


Big Block Chevy Cam Identification

Imagine getting a call from a customer who has just received a meticulously remanufactured 454 Chevrolet engine but who claims it only runs on four cylinders.

By Roy Berndt

While turning the distributor during diagnosis process your customer noticed the other four cylinders would start running and the original four go dead. Now, since it is a big block I truly understood a phrase that my brother always used: "There is no substitute for cubic inches," because it did actually run on either of the four cylinder sets.

In your mind you're thinking "Great, I'm dealing with another guy who is certainly not the sharpest tool in the work shed," but in the interest of customer service you entertain the bizarre possibility that there is something wrong with the engine and not the ignition system. Finally after what seemed like enough time to grow a beard on the phone with the customer you agree to take the engine back into your facility and provide the customer with another one, certainly expecting him to have the same problem as the original.

A few days and hundreds of tasks later your customer calls and says the new engine runs great. You wonder how that can be possible and realize that it is time to get the returned engine on the bench and pull out the CSI tools and find out what happened. Heads are perfect, cylinders good, pistons and rings fine, all the  bearings look great, the timing gear's in time - there is absolutely nothing wrong! You see the camshaft lying on the bench and know there's nothing wrong there...or is there? You pull out another new camshaft and lay it next to the one you just removed and scratch your head, because the two are very different. First thought, this is simple. Somehow a reverse rotation marine camshaft was incorrectly packaged, right? Wrong! Finally you just walk away and right it off to a bizarre anomaly. Then weeks later you read a short blurb about how the firing order on 8.1L big block engines is different than a normal big block. The 8.1L FO is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 where a 454/7.4L is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 as seen in Figure 1.

Despite the differences, however, an 8.1L camshaft will drop right into a 454 like it belongs there - but it will only run four cylinders.

So guess who had the elevator that didn't get to the top floor? It wasn't the guy who called up saying that his engine only ran on four cylinders, that's for certain. If you're in the engine business long enough you'll have those days when you feel like one of those suckers that you used to get after a shot at the doctor's office – I think they were called Dum-Dums.

i ran across this image on a google search...

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu291/david467/oilplug.jpg

it shows the proper depth of the hidden plug under the rear main cap...

it according to other web sites... be 8 and a half inches down from the top of the block.. measured through the oil galley plug where the oil sending units are screwed in next to the distributer...

with this plug in the wrong location..  the oil pump will pump oil unfiltered directly to the engine.. bypassing the filter with most of it.. you will still have oil in the filter.. but not full flow..

i have not had a small block chevy bare block to get my hands on to measure..

perhaps someone who is better at it.. can paste the picture to this thread.. at a size that can be seen..

i ran across this by accident...  might help somebody...

lots of good stuff on it..

http://www.cs.siena.edu/~lederman/truck/Documents.htm

back to the drawing boards guys...

http://www.guzer.com/videos/race-car-tire-trouble.php


i wonder if that race was here in so cal...  might explain the massive pot hole...

this is really creative.

a version of the A12/ SR71 trainer cockpit...


in a pickup truck...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_hVOW2U7K4-M/S1_MvA1tdbI/AAAAAAABPO8/k8Rel_3TigA/s640/photopodborka_109.jpg



i ran across this while sipping on this site..

http://www.darkroastedblend.com/2010/04/never-give-up-crazy-logistics-part-11.html

just ran across this for a for a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5L SFI HO 6cyl


Duralast / Headlight Switch
Part Number:   SW3944
Notes:    With dealer installed fog lamps
OEM Number:    1S8Z- 11654- AA
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SW3944/image/8/


might be interesting to get away from the old push pull switches..

there are 3 different versions

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SW3075/image/8/

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SW3074/image/8/


this is just a thought..

for those who use rivets...

this article might really pop some new ideas into your heads..

http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/other/adp-rivet-product-the-ultimate-racers-rivet-the-unsung-hero-of-fasteners/


i found it absolutely riveting..

just ran across this... there are several sections to it...

http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech-explained/2009/06/04/identifying-ford-y-block-parts-part-1/

here are more...

http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tag/y-block/


enjoy...

http://www.amcarguide.com/wp-content/gallery/challenger-daytona/11-hpp-dodge-challenger-daytona.jpg

i don't care if  the splitter is so low.. i could not run over a flattened soda can...

maybe if i just mount it on the wall... hang it upside down from the ceiling in my living room.....

at least i just noticed it..

when you google a term...   you will see in the upper left corner..a link to take you to google images...

there is also another link to open the options ...

you can then select line drawings.. this really narrows down the pictures.. and you will find tons of parts diagrams and wiring diagrams..

here is the line drawing link when i just searched 55 chevy

http://images.google.com/images?gbv=2&hl=en&sa=1&q=55+chevy&aq=f&oq=&aqi=g10&start=0&imgtbs=t&imgtype=lineart

put in your own search term...   or add a model car to it.. to narrow the search...

just ran into this by accident .. searching for something else..

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/1927/the_354_and_392_chrysler_hemi_engines_do_not_use_the_same_cam_because_the_lifter_bore_angles_are_different.aspx

i ran across this my accident.

one might really want to download and keep all three parts.. of the manuals..

http://www.gmperformancedivision.com/pulse/manuals.aspx

the third part tells how to build a high horsepower version...

enjoy....


i was going to post this in the throne room.. but there is just too much great info for the future of hot rodding....  as parts one and two... show how to remove and install these little motors properly.. with nice photos...

i have been following charlie chops volvo fender widening..

i was wondering..

when welding thin sheet metal...   i have seen copper paddles to back up holes when filling them..

my thought is why not build a set of copper clamps... with a gap on one side.. and a solid section on the back side.. actually i would think the finish side..  and weld away.. the copper paddle clamp keeps the weld even with the surface..      so you can butt weld thin sheet metal perhaps a little faster.. ... ---~---

this is just an idea... but i don't see any reason it won't work...  other than the clamps getting in the way and having to reposition them constantly..


i may not have described it perfectly...

i was thinking of an idea of using a corvette C5/C6 transaxle... removing the transmission from it..  installing an electric traction motor directly to the front  where the automatic fit...

filling the underhood area with batteries equal to the weight of the motor that used to live there for an electric corvette...

it was just a thought.. as I have flashes of brilliance... in my own mind sometimes...   most people use two esses.  instead of one..

but i ran across this thread on a google search.. and thought it is really worth sharing..

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=3293&sid=5e4a518ee26433ced2abbfe069d627c1


the second picture on the first page of the cable shifter is what i was thinking of sumner doing when he was going to run the muncie i had in the rear of his streamliner..   just being able to shift the forward gears..

enjoy.. there are like 4 pages...

and any comments if you think an electric motor could be attached where a 4l60E was to the corvette C5/C6 rear housing could be done...  i have not had one apart to see ... i do see a lot of people searching craigs list for electric fork lift motors...

wayne....    forward thinker...     who needs reverse...

http://roperwhitney.com/misc/2-26.cfm


i ran across this and now i am wanting more stuff i did not know existed..

i clicked on a wall paper link... looked around and found this...

http://krang.hotrod.com/wallpapers/hrdp_0702_blowfish_cuda_1600x1200.jpg

it is now this weeks desk top image..

i was wondering if any body had any HIGH res images of the hooleys stude..

i have mostly had pictures from here..

http://apod.nasa.gov/apod/archivepix.html

i ran across this on a yahoo random search...

it was just too good to not post it...

http://www.fullpullmotorsports.com/id28.htm

i think i would like the one with 5...........

a while back i posted the upper link... somebody else pointed out that the measurements are 5 or 6 inches off and the proper one is below...

anybody got a frame book they can take a look at.. i hate being incorrect in my info sources...


i only post this info for the measurement between the upper control arm brackets... as that is where the frame sag is measured at... the second version .. that critical measurement is not there... and the frame horns are different on the imca version...

http://www.imca.com/manage/uploaded/%5Bform-27%5Dgm_chevelle_frame_dimensions.pdf



http://www.chevellestuff.com/tech/67_frame_dimensions.htm