Topics

If my memory is correct when a Ford car has a electric or electric assist choke its wired to the alternator so where is it hooked up.

Got radials on the original rims for my 65 mercury and the full wheel covers are coming off,heard the rims tend to flex more with radials then bias ply so is there a time frame to get rims made after or just go with small caps.

I had three C-4s in my Sunliner that all ended up with third gear issues,wants to slide into third at light throttle so talked to a trans shop and was told it sounds like a vacumn issue.  Hooked up a vacumn gauge and went for a drive,with higher vacumn it wants to slide into third and when I mash the pedal and vacumn gets low it goes into third nice and firm.   I think I have all vacumn lines hooked up right but wondering if the engine could be doing something to cause this.

I think I have one plugging up so when they are working like they should is the exhaust coming out supposed to be hotter then going in.

I picked up a unknown condition Ford C-4 to get the shift arm it had,I was also hoping to use the valve body to see if the one I have has a issue but after removing the pan I found over 1/8 deep metallic sludge with chunks so I presume some got in the valve body so is there a way to clean it without taking it apart.

Power on both sides of the fuse but nothing to the motor or resistor,took a tool battery and the motor works so the problem is either the switch or in the heater control head. Could anything in the control head cause the blower motor to not work.

I have a 95 F150 with a 5.8 that the idle has been gradually getting higher and the shift points changing and now will not shift ,code scanner said TPS not in range so I plugged in another and still the same but no CEL. Had to disconnect the IAC so I could move it so where do I start looking.

Got a Ford C-4 hot enough to slightly burn the fluid and loose third,found out it had debris between the cooler and radiator so I changed the fluid and installed a bigger cooler(no cooler in radiator) and moved it away from the radiator.   Came home from a show about 140 miles from the house and put the infared thermometer on the cooler and it was about 140 degrees so what I need to know is just how hot does the fluid have to be to cause damage and is 140 cool enough.

Lost third on the trip to Florida,reverse,first and second still work great and sometimes can get third.   From what I have heard that if third goes it should not have reverse but it does,fluid is still red but starting to smell burnt so what could cause this and it has less then 20,000 on a rebuild.

All the C-6 trans I had locked it in second when put in second and would not come out but the C-6 I used in my 66 F100 that is from a 78 will shift from first to second so it seems to me that someone has bee into the valve body,I think it might have a mild shift kit in it and would that make it do a 1-2 shift when the selector is in second.

I have one on my 37 Chevy p/u and when I went to leave the local cruise in last night the lights were flickering but when I got home and put a meter on it the voltage was normal,fired it up this morning with the meter on the battery and it went up to 14.8 for a couple minutes then would stop charging and then start again for another few minutes then stay on. Could this be a regulator and looks to only happen when cold.

From what I have been told they are basicly a C-4 with a lock up converter,I am thinking about trying one in my next projects that will have a highway gear to see how one is. A friend has on in a 83 fox body LTD with a 3.8 but just what others got that trans and what years were they made,I do have a couple AODs but with a C-5 there is probably no TV cable to worry about.

I tried to put a a/c system from a 95 f150 on my 88 bronco but some of the parts would not fit since i did not get the housing that mounts to the firewall so I used the compressor and receiver drier on the 88. It was converted to 134 before I got it and since some parts came off a 95 that had it I put some in and tried to get it to work,well it wants to get cold and has about 50 psi on the low side so something else is wrong. The original compressor was shot and the orfrice tube was clogged so could the evaporator and condenser be plugged too.

I got my old 89 crown vic back and the heated windshield has been replaced with a regular version,now the rear defroster does not seem to work even though the switch lights up that its on. Both operated by the same switch and I do know the windshield had its own temp sensor and would not come on after a certain temp leaving only the rear to come on,now with the heated windshield gone something is now open and not allowing power to get to the rear. I do have a factory wiring diagram and need to study it but not sure what to jump or hook up to make the rear defroster start working.

I got this 88 full size bronco I swapped over to 2 wheel drive and since the gas tank is in the rear it could get a true dual exhaust very easy,since the late 80s crown vics could get a true dual exhaust they have dual O2 sensors so I got this ideal of using the EFI harness from a crown vic and installing it in the bronco so the EFI will work right when it gets a dual exhaust. Does it sound like it could work,I could switch to a carb and it would be much easier but would like to keep the EFI.

I have a 95 F150 with a 5.8 that will not want to idle and fall on its face sometimes when its damp,thought it could be water in the gas and possibly a TPS but its acting like the EGR is moving when its should not or too much at times but will not do it long enough to diagnose or set any codes. So can the EGR solenoid short out and work when its not supposed to and I checked the EGR and it seems to be working.

I have a friend who has it and it needs a rear end so is there anywhere on it that has a code for the gear ratio,I am used to Fords that have a code on the sticker in the door jamb and tags on the rear ends. I do not want to get a used one with a different ratio.

It was towed  to the house with a inop starter so after I got it to start it was running on one or two cylinders,two plug holes were soaked with oil and one wire end was on the plug. New valve cover gasket along with plugs and wires and it was running much better but this thing will not run past 3500 RPMs,CEL is on but I do not have the hardware for my Snap On brick scanner to do imports after 93 and it kind of smells lean so anyone know what the fuel pressure should be and just where is the fuel filter.

Modulator is adjusted in all the way so is it time to look for a longer pushrod or is something else wrong,was not too bad with 2.75 gears but changed to 3.00 gears and now its into third around 20.

Still working on the 84 small LTD,last fall the catalytic converters plugged so it sat until recently when I decided to start working on it again so I got the converters gutted so it would run long enough to see what is going on. Drove it to work and started acting like it was out of fuel on the way home and limped it in the driveway and both the pump in the tank and the one on the frame were working,I hooked up my pressure gauge and it was 45 while running which seems high so I need to know the fuel pressure specs and if the regulator is bad and even with too high of pressure could the regulator actually cause a restriction to cause lack of fuel. I did put some stuff in the tank in case there is water in the fuel.

The previous 4 times I drove my 55 sunliner to Florida it had aluminum wheels and it got between 14 and 16 miles to the gallon on the trip,before I went the last time I put the steel rims back on and it got 17 to 18. The only thing I done to the motor was to go from ported vacumn on the distributor to full vacumn which could have had a effect but I was also wondering if heavier wheels that would keep the momentum up help too,I do not know if the heavier wheels had a effect on the stopping since I also added a brake booster before the trip too which helped a bunch going through Atlanta.

Its probably just a cheap reman starter problem but was wondering if using a weak battery can cause starter problems,Autozone reman starter with less then 500 miles that I had had hooked up to a almost 10 year old battery seized up without warning today. Starter replaced under warranty and picked up a new battery too since I had to rig that battery in and got one that fit the car.

Hooked up a digital meter to my 55 Ford that has a 351-w and electronic ignition and getting readings of over a hundred volts but normal with a analog meter,thought it could be something with the alternator so I took off the fan belt and still getting the crazy readings. I am going to be heading to Florida next week and need to figure out what is going on,no plug wires are arching and the only part that was changed on the motor lately is the pick up coil in the distributor.

Working on a 53 Johnson boat motor and it needs fuel lines,smaller then 1/4 but I have never seen 3/16 fuel line before.

Had a cat plug up on a car tonight to where the motor would idle only so could it damage the O2 sensor,it might have run only 5 minutes after I notice the lack of power.

Have a 89 AOD that lost o/d and second to third shift has changed so could this be a converter issue or is the trans on its way out.

I have been trying to figure out a issue with a 84 Ford small LTD (fox body) that it would just die,changed the battery and it has not quit and no cutting out when hitting bumps now. I also changed the ground cable and made new body to motor grounds and is definately starting quicker,the wire coming from the alternator main wire has a fuesable link that the insulation was melted so that got me thinking the previous battery might have been shorting out internally causing the computer to freak out.

I have two gallons that are over 20 years old that has zinc that I want to use in my flat tappet motors,I was reading the container and it said it was not recommended for multi grade diesel oil and since I use that in one of my vehicles I was wondering why there could be a problem. The only thing I can think of is when that STP was made diesel oil had plenty of zinc and adding it would be over kill,now it does not have that much zinc so would it do any damage if I use it with todays 15/40 diesel oil.

It gets no spark while cranking but will spark once when the ignition is turned off,the truck got a motor swap with the original motor still running and the motor from the other truck running too but now the no spark situation. The truck in question is a 84 Ramcharger and the motor came from a 79 Ramcharger that is getting a bigblock swap,everything on both trucks look identical so what should I look at. The 84 has a MSD box with the original mopar distributor and was doing the same so I hooked it up back to the factory electronic ignition and the same,the only thing that was not changed is the 84 has the 79 distributor that looks the same as what the 84 motor had on it.

The E4OD does that in my 95 f150 and I am wondering why the motor has to warm up a little,before the convertor locks up,would it do some damage if it would do it cold.

When cold the idle will surge on my 88 bronco with a 5.0 for a minute or until I put it in gear,the fuel pressure is on the low side of the range and everything is new and not setting any codes. new plugs got it starting on the first try but I need to find out the surging issue and what should I check.

It is looking like there might be a problem with the ECM or is there anything else to look at before getting another ECM.

I was charging up the system in my 88 bronco that had been converted to the new stuff and just when the pressure started to get in green zone on the gauge and started to get cool the line burst,it could be the line was ready to go but is there anything I should look for while I have the system apart. The compressor was making strange noises so there will be a junkyard trip next weekend.

I picked up a 95 F150 with a 5.8 that needed a trans so after installing a trans and fixing a few other things from sitting a year or so I am now driving it but it has a idle issue,when I take it out of park and let it roll before hitting the gas it will die and it will want to die when I am stopping and its just barely rolling and will stay running if it stops quickly. Its not setting any codes and ran a couple tests but nothing shows up so where do i start looking.

This weekend I am picking up a nice 95 F150 with a fried E4OD,what all years was that trans made and is there a better year of trans to get.

I want to install a/c in my 66 F250 but would like to find a new but vintage looking under dash a/c system,are they available or will I have to buy a vintage unit,if I do get a new system are they available to use R12 since I have plenty and would like to use up..

I have a 69 p/u box that the seal is leaking and the column is out and can get to it,can it be replaced still in the vehicle or will the box have to be disassembled.

7 years ago I bought a 89 crown vic that was supposed to have 110,000 miles,seeing that the alternator and some brake parts and the plug wires and hoses were replaced I thought it was correct even though the interior did not look like it was ever used.  The outside was starting to show some wear so I used it for a winter beater,around 35,000 miles I let a now ex girlfriend drive it and she about destroyed it but the motor runs great and the rest of the drivetrain is still good so I got thinking if it actually had 135,000 miles on it and with her hard driving the last 4 years I do not think it would have lasted to 183,000 miles so I am beginning to think this car actually had 10,000 original miles on it when I bought it so is there any way to verify it.

A friend just bought a Acura and was wondering who made the oil that they sell at the dealer.

25 winters has taken its toll on my 89 crown vic and the fuel line from the filter to the motor will be my next project,I can use a compression fitting like used on brake lines close to the motor but are there any clamps made to handle higher pressures to use at the filter end.

Well not as its supposed to,the idiot light is not working and no power to the ignition side of the voltage regulator. If I put power to to it the charging system will work so where do i begin to find the source of the problem and this one has the heated windshield too.

A friend has a 98 that is acting like its running out of fuel,a new fuel pump has been installed but the problem still exists so anyone know where the fuel filter is located. I never worked on one before so I have no clue.

It kind of wants to slide in second and not firmly like 3rd so I got looking at my 71 shop manuals,there is a intermediate band which I presume they mean is second and it says loosen nut and torque to 10 ft pounds and then loosen 1 1/2 turns. I think thats the band nut I had to loosen when I installed the Lokar shifter so I probably loosened the band some.

I have a 88 full size bronco with a 5.0 and the fuel pressure is too low,its supposed to be 30 to 45 with motor running with regulator vacumn hose on and all I can get is 29 so I run it with the vacumn line plugged and unhooked.  It originally had two fuel pumps so I converted it to the 90 to 96 single pump system and still the same,just got done installing a new pump/sending unit because the gauge quit and I still have to keep the regulator disconnected or it will surge when first started. I was told it could have a few weak injectors causing low fuel pressure so should I look there next.

A friend has a 81 Chevy truck and came up with a 80 parts truck,he would like to use the front sheetmetal from the 80 on his 81 but the wipers on the 81 come up through the cowl panel and are under the hood on the 80. What we need to know is the firewall the same on both years and can the 80 wiper parts be used on the 81 or should he trade the 80 parts for a 81 front clip.

I am in the process of converting my 66 F250 into a 1/2 ton,when I installed the 460 a few years ago the front end did not drop any using the original springs so when I got the 1/2 front suspension I grabbed it from one with a FE motor.  Now I am thinking about another set of front springs to drop the front end a little so I was thinking a 351-M/400 should be lighter then a 460 so I was thinking about finding a pair of springs for a 351-m/400 non a/c truck.

I am converting my 66 F250 to a 1/2 ton using the front suspension from a 76 F150,I have a proportioning valve from a F350 but should I grab the one from the donor truck or are they all the same.

My small boat trailer has 8 inch tires and it said something about 60 psi on them but that seemed too high so I put 45 in them,I had the boat on the lake the last couple weekends and on the trip to the lakes the trailer shook my truck a bit so would 35 be enough for those small tires. I was wondering if the tires had a bunch of flat spots due to not being used much the last few years.

The 235 took a dump in my 37 Chevy p/u and tired of seeing SBCs where they do not belong so its time to put a SBF where it does not belong in my 37 Chevy,since the 70 and newer SBF have the lower hose on the drivers side I want to use a early water pump to get the hose on the pass side so I will not have to do any serious modifications to my radiator. This will not be a problem if I use a pre 81 motor but if I use a later motor I will have to use the existing balancer but will not be able to see the timing marks,does anyone know if there is a balancer made to use with a later motor with the timing marks for the earlier motor.

A friend has a 84 small LTD with a 3.8 V6 with throttle body EFI,I can jump the diagnostic connector and get the fuel pumps to kick on but the injectors will not fire up so I am thinking the computer has fried or lost its source of power. Checked the fuse box and no ECM fuse and no manuals for this car so where to look next,when the key is on no pumps or injectors but has ignition as it runs off starting fluid.