How hokey is it to have striker on door, latch in pillar?

idrivejunk · March 20, 2020, 08:07:42 PM

Got the install kit for bear claws in the 51 Ford truck today, looked at instructions and doors.

Probably will use power to actuate latches, and as with many old cars and trucks the window channel is right where the latch goes in what I call traditional arrangement. Latches in doors.

I believe while I am there, I can use that normal setup by reshaping jamb contours both sides.

I am aware it is not uncommon to use striker pin on door setup, and it is mentioned in the kit under "if you are using power, you may want to..."

My question is:

Personally, what do you like to see? I think pin on door latch on pillar is smart but looks wrong. But folks it might matter to know.

Your thoughts please if you have them.

Does it rip your coat or anything like that more one way or the other, etc?

:?: Thank you.

kb426 · March 20, 2020, 09:20:52 PM

Pin on pillar is fine with me. The mechanics of all this has a great deal to do with placement.

idrivejunk · March 20, 2020, 11:13:00 PM

I won't take much convincing.

Pin on pillar is what I am calling normal. Latch on pillar is what I am asking about. Looking to avoid rodder's faux pas but I can think of a couple thirties cars that might have been much easier that way.

While we're here...

Howzis grab ya?

enjenjo · March 20, 2020, 11:45:00 PM

I have done latch on the pillar a couple times on pickups. My only problem is I want a mechanical release on the inside so you can get out without power. To do this I mount a handle on the side of the seat where your hand naturally drops when you reach down. Then use a cable to connect to the latch in the door post. The only major problem is getting the door to seal at the post where the latch is, or putting the door seal inside the latch on the door.

If you mount the latch in the post, and power window switches on the console, the only wires into the door are for the power window motor. This can be solved with contacts on the front door jamb that make contact when the door is closed, but that only works if the hinge geometry allows it. Then that won't work. I have milled a slot in the top of the lower hinge big enough for two wires, and fabricated a cover to fit over the slot. I have thought about gluing the wires into the hinge slot, filling over it, and painting it to hide the wires completely. 16 gauge wire is big enough for most modern power window motors, and with TLX insulation needs a slot less that 1/8" wide, and just over 1/4" deep.

idrivejunk · March 21, 2020, 09:09:06 AM

Thank you Bill and Frank.

Charlie Chops 1940 · March 21, 2020, 10:37:47 AM

I'm in the camp that practices simple and doesn't require retraining the reactions used for the last 60+ years of driving. Door handles on the door within easy reach. I don't perceive any real benefit turning it all around and requiring one to remember how to open the doggone door.

WZ JUNK · March 21, 2020, 10:41:52 AM

I think that things like door handles and brake pedals need to be in there natural location. If you need to stop fast, or get out of vehicle, you do not want to be trying to find the mechanism you need. I hate brake pedals on the left side of the steering column and I have went to great lengths to avoid having one in that location. Electric mechanisms that open doors are not good either, even when you have a back up mechanical option. Think back to a time when you may have been in a vehicle during an emergency and try to think how frustrating and dangerous this situation could be. My 2 cents.

idrivejunk · March 21, 2020, 03:53:35 PM

Quote from: "Charlie Chops 1940"I'm in the camp that practices simple and doesn't require retraining the reactions used for the last 60+ years of driving. Door handles on the door within easy reach. I don't perceive any real benefit turning it all around and requiring one to remember how to open the doggone door.

Are you saying that you would prefer not to have bear claw latches?

Or are you saying that modifying the door jambs to keep the latch location when converting to bear claws is worthwhile?

That is my thought as well but I am building for a customer and won't control the mechanical vs electric choice, however I can control where components are located.

idrivejunk · March 21, 2020, 04:03:43 PM

Quote from: "WZ JUNK"I think that things like door handles and brake pedals need to be in there natural location. If you need to stop fast, or get out of vehicle, you do not want to be trying to find the mechanism you need. I hate brake pedals on the left side of the steering column and I have went to great lengths to avoid having one in that location. Electric mechanisms that open doors are not good either, even when you have a back up mechanical option. Think back to a time when you may have been in a vehicle during an emergency and try to think how frustrating and dangerous this situation could be. My 2 cents.

Ditto, as above. Is it the stock latch you want to keep, along with the inside handle?

Or do you want the stock inside handle with bear claw latch?

As mentioned in first post. This is the kind of response I hoped for.

What about if the inside handle works as a switch like the Model A job will?

The actuator has to be there too, with shaved outside handles. According to the powers that be. I'd want no electronics myself, but doors will pop open with fob buttons like everything else we build. I did the 33 and 30 and kept latch and actuator inside the door. Only pickup I remember bear clawing was a 55 Chevy but it was with Kindig-It outside handles.

idrivejunk · March 21, 2020, 04:09:55 PM

By the way, can anybody spot the modification(s)?

WZ JUNK · March 21, 2020, 05:39:31 PM

I think the stock handle with the bear claw latch in the door. Do whatever needs to be done to make it work. One option might be to move the latch lower on the door for more window channel clearance.

I have been in the situation myself and it is not an easy place to work and it is difficult to getting it all working correctly.

idrivejunk · March 21, 2020, 06:59:04 PM

That was my first thought when I glanced at it.... that it didn't necessarily have to be exactly there.

Officially registering your vote as stock inside handle with mechanical link to bear claw latch. We are in the same party or camp that I believe the owner is.

The area is heavily contoured originally and it still will be, but shaped differently. Bumped out some on the door, bumped in some on the pillar.

I would not doubt that the handle-as-switch method will get used.

I can see this possibly getting an added seal at the gap like the model A job. Hidden hinges create a weatherstripping conundrum.

It is good to know that latch in pillar is not an unforgiveable sin though... in case I end up there.

Now I'll slip these in here and continue hoarding opinions.

Crazy, ain't it? :? Seems to tone down the skyscraping effect of those cabs.

Charlie Chops 1940 · March 21, 2020, 09:30:23 PM

I have used bear claws but I am a fan of good working OEM latches, striker plates and dove tails. I can't remember when I've had a door pop open on its own. Of there are a few OEM setups that were poor when they came out. I don't happen to have one of those cars.