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the standard ford firing order... if you numbered the cylinders like a chevy is the same.

 except ford number 1 is passenger side and chevy number 1 is drivers side..

 as for thinner carb spacers. there are several choices for 1/2 and 1" https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/carburetor-spacers?N=carburetor-mounting%3A2-barrel%2Bthickness-in%3A1-000_0-500&PageSize=25&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending

but will an additional fraction of an inch be enough..

 there are some 2" drop spun aluminum air cleaner housings that take 14" air cleaners..   you might have to bend the throttle linkage into a hockey stick shape but i think you have the lower throttle linkage..
 
 PS... probably TMI. everything with a carb.  and 5/16 fuel hose into the fuel pump inlet i use a 1994 ford probe 2.0L automatic trans fuel filter in the line before the pump.. 3/8 line i use a 1984 corvette fuel filter. this protects the fuel pump check valves from sediment and the carb needle and seat from seeping. causing stains on the intake and issues when trying to restart hot..  those two applications are 10 micron filters..

 

find an AM hand held radio and use the antenna to find the noise creating device. do not get the antenna that close to spark plug wires..

 the condenser goes on the positive side of the ignition coil. depending on which ignition system you have.. MSD and Other CD ignitions that don't have 12 or 14 volt to the coil positive can have hundreds of volts to the coil positive..

 you can also get RFI capacitors for the alternator system...
 you can hook your digital volt meter up with the setting on AC volts to the alternator case and the alternator output stud.  you should not have very much AC volts. i have forgotten what the max ac voltage is..   bad diodes can create alternator noise thru the system..
 

 

 many years go.. an LT1 Camaro pulled into the shop with a misfire. the shop owners said they were going to work on it. i pointed out the coil was the cause of the misfire.. it was leaking high voltage externally. so they replaced the optispark and water pump.. still misfired..

 i said replace the coil . nope we are doing this.. so 2 sets of delco spark plug wires and a set of spark plugs and 2 days later it still misfired..  frustrated they were over at the repair info computer trying to figure out what was next.. i kept new ignition coils on my tool box. took me about 10 minutes to install the new coil and wire brush the ring terminals above the bracket.. i reached thru the window and started it up.. idling perfectly..  what did you fix.. i handed them the old coil.. i told you it was a coil causing the misfiring..

 warning Optispark ... the short extension harness from the weatherpack to the optispark gets green corrosion and must be replaced.. or 2 new connector pigtails and build your own..  the green is the wire being dissolved.. cleaning won't help where the corrosion is deep in the wire strands.  somebody online sold replacements for 30 bucks years ago.. gm wanted 10 times that. .

Today like most days i am not doing anything ... surfing and answering reddit mechanic advice forums..

 I am feeling bad about something that happened a few months ago. that really was not my fault..

 a friend with a 66 fairlane after several engines over the past almost 20 years had a AFR headed 347... he finally let me help him dial in the carb and the timing. he likes to listen to forum help too much..  i noted that the air cleaner stud was wobbling in the carb so i made him get out his box of fasteners. the only 5/16-18 nut was a brass one from a ford starter relay i had him put it on and tighten it.  i did not stand up and take the wrench from his hand (bad knees and a broken foot Prevent me from doing much standing or walking) i should have checked the tightness.  but i did not.. he called about 2 weeks later. the engine high revved and the air filter fell off then the engine makes a thumping noise when he restarted it.. the air cleaner fell off the carb.. i ask where is the jam nut.. its not there.. the air cleaner stud came out of the carb again... if he had 2 nuts i would have had him lock them together on the stud  then snug it into the carb..  347 destroyed.  top of the forged piston chewed up .. small dent in the cylinder wall.. AFR head chewed up.. it revved so high the keepers came half way out of another valve retainer.   he got a replacement engine from some carolina shop.. it is a dart block 363 with afr heads and it cost 15K+.

 i just feel * guilty.. nothing i can do about it. i should have taken the wrench from his hand and double checked it.. 

 and for IdriveJunk.. yes.. if you run across a GTO absolutely if you can.. do it.. i sold my 66 GTO in 1985. am still kicking myself for that . at least i still have dreams about driving it. roaring thru the citrus groves on highway 126 between Santa Paula and Santa Clarita (magic mountain) when it was still a 2 lane winding road..

 i put 6 engines in that GTO in 5 years and learned how to build a really bullet proof engine..
 engine 5 needed to be replaced.. not because it blew up.. but because i let some friends drive it at the drag strip i worked at. they did an over 8,000+ RPM burn out in first gear on street tires for the whole 1/8 mile.  they cracked the block thru the lifter valley.. down the area above the number 3 cylinder wall .. thru the lifter bores and oil galleys and up the number 4 cylinder wall area.. i was truly amazed when i pulled the intake and found that crack that explained how i could get coolant in the oil pan and oil in the radiator.  and no the last 2 engines were Not Pontiac.. somebody had given me a 402 BBC from their 70 or 71 malibu as it leaked oil everywhere.. who ever built that used no gasket sealer anywhere. 

 i have to get back here more often..

 glad to see its still up and running..

was that the baseball bats to the primary tubes ... yep saw that...

i used to be a moderator on a bunch of TEN forums...   CC, CHP  automotive.com  the pontiac and mopar forums. the mustang forums...  the blue 55 pontiac with the broken headlight and the Fuel injected 421.. i spotted in a craigs list ad..  posted it to the pontiac forums.. a staffter from HRM contacted me.. i gave him the info and it became an article and a cover car..

this   



i have been using this for about 15 years now...

why all 6 tests...

test 1 verifies the alternator is putting out some kind of voltage above battery voltage...

test 2 checks the electrical connection between the Negative battery post and the engine block...

test 3 checks the electrical connection between the Negative battery post and the Body..

test 4 checks the electrical connection between the engine and firewall..

test 5 checks the electrical connection between the Positive battery and the Fuses in the fuse block..

test 6 checks the electrical connection between the alternator output stud and the positive battery post....

why do all this... i can do tests 1 thru 4 in less than a minute on most cars..

test 5 takes a minute or two..

test 6 is impossible on some cars. but easily done on others..

lets go over why...

test 2... ever had a negative battery cable loose on the block... or on a painted or greasy surface... where its not making good contact...  ever had a loose crimp at the battery terminal or at the cable lug at the engine.. i have had way too many of those over the past 43 years of fixing cars for a living..

  test 3.... i can't count the number of Negative battery cables that are not connected to the body... just the pigtail dangling..

  Test 4. the engine to firewall braided ground cable...


test 3 and 4 WHY...  the alternator, starter , ignition system and parts of the fuel injection system are grounded to the engine...

everything else in the car is grounded to the body.. the headlights to the tail lights... parts of the fuel injection system are also grounded to the body on some cars..   so if you have a bad connection found on 3 and 4... you will have a difference in voltage between the negative battery and the body and the engine and the body..

who cares.. electrical components do..   the alternator puts out electrons on the negative side..  so the path is... alternator housing.. bracket.. head or block. negative battery cable to the negative battery post... but wait... most things are grounded to the body..

so the path continues... up the negative battery cable.. thru the mid sized wire to the inner fender.. to the rest of the car... since most things are grounded to the firewall area under the dash or A pillars..  you could have a 1 to 3 volt difference to do resistance..  i have measured up to 8.5 volts between the engine and body of a 98 chevy truck with horrible battery cables with splices.. grease... loose....  3.5 volts on 6.. between the alternator output stud and the positive battery...  electrons are lazy .. they want to take the shortest route..  heck.. that could be thru the throttle linkage.. how many of you recall fords and dodge vans of the 60s and 70s that the throttle linkage balls were eaten away by something... or the U joints failed again and again..

front wheel drive cars if the engine to firewall ground is bad... can have the electrons take the path from the alternator to engine. to transmission case.. to CV shafts... to wheel bearing where a greasy game of frogger is played .. electrons arcing the balls and races as they jump between them as the wheels roll.. up the strut to the stut mount or thru the steering linkage..  which ever way is the shortest to the body ground circuit..

you are going  wayne is NUTS. try tests 1 thru 4 on your rods and daily drivers..  throw a DC amp clamp around the braided engine to firewall cable with the defroster blowing...

decades ago i started working at a friends shop part time.. there was an 86 cougar 2.3 turbo sitting against the fence in the corner .. nobody could get it to run.... we needed to move the car for something.. i got a skinny tech to slide into the drivers seat and pop the hood... i dropped in the battery.. he fired it up.. belching black smoke.. barely running... sparking like crazy from the braided ground strap just above the starter on the bell housing.. i took my wrench and tightened it back up.. had him restart the engine... smooth as glass..  boss jumped in it and took it around the block.. his eyes popped out.. he said that thing is as fast as his 87 turbo coupe with the intercooler... nobody could fix it..

it was a * loose ground cable.. ford grounded most of the fuel injection to the firewall inside the car..

test 5...  positive battery to multiple fuses in the fuse box..  why not just one... if you have ever been inside a fuse box.. there are different buss bars connecting different fuse groups..   sometimes like on some dodges the power comes in a multi plug cable end in the bottom of the fuse box.. if one of those gets corroded.. and it happens.. some of the fuses get less power...

94 to 98 chevy pickups get corrosion from the water off the cowl on the end of the 95 inch long cable and the stud that pinches the multiple buss bars together..

a lot of 97 98 S10 pickups have weird issues usually with the 2.2 engine..  if you do test 5.. you will find several fuses in the middle... 1/10 to 3/10 lower than the others...  i then noticed the aux stud closes to the master cylinder in the underhood fuse box had a copper buss bar but not nut holding it down to the backing plate.. a 6x1.0 flange nut fixed the issue...  over the years on other forums.. that has popped up dozens of times.

ever seen or had a 2004 dodge caravan version that after you run a power sliding or power rear door with the engine running that every light in the car goes insane till you shut off the engine and restart..  super dim to crazy bright every second or so.. pulsing...  this popped up on a forum i moderated..  dozens of posts on it.. dealers had replaced the alternator.. the under hood fuse box.(ipm). the pcm... the battery.. usually $1,200 to $1,500 worth of parts and it still did it.. i got a forum member to run all 6 tests with the engine running in pulsing voltage mode...

test 5 and 6 went insane.. 0 to 4 volts again and again... i had him start testing step by step.. 

battery post to the battery terminal... 0.. no fluctuation... battery terminal to the bare wires of the battery cables... pulsing... i ask him to wiggle the cables.. yep the strands thru the crimp wiggled..  chrysler had not crimped the cable end on tight enough..

what happened is the battery cable being loose.. routing went alternator to starter to battery terminal .. the other wire went to the underhood fuse box where all the power to the car including the PCM is distributed..  the PCM controls the field windings of the chrysler alternators... so the heavy load at idle from the power door exceed the amount of current that could go thru the loose crimp.. so the fuse box and PCM side of the positive battery connection dropped voltage significantly... enough to make the PCM command full field to keep up... but the alternator was on the other side of the loose crimp... so it went over 15 volts without bringing up PCM voltage..  when the switch to the power door openers is released.. the over 15 volts flys thru the loose crimp to the fuse box and PCM.. lights go bright. the PCM says nope.. and turns off the power to the field winding.. so the system voltage drops back to battery voltage or less do to the loose connection..  a second later the PCM says too low.. full field .. a second after than the PCM sees 15+ volts.. shuts the alternator off again... in a feed back loop till the car is restarted..

how could you find that issue without a voltage drop test 5 and 6..

  test 6. why 3/10s of a volt.. instead of 4/100ths of a volt.. less is better but copper is expensive for OEMs... imagine how many miles of copper wire they go thru daily... 3/10 or 2/10s is designed in...  except for hondas.. their cables are so short you might have to drop to 2 volts DC scale to see 0.007 volts.. 7/1000ths of a volt..

wait... why 7/10s on chryslers with dashboard amp meters...

the chrysler charging circuit is long.. lets follow it... from the alternator output stud to the bulk head connector.. from the inside of the bulk head connector over to the amp meter... from the other stud on the amp meter back to the bulk head connector.. thru it  to the starter relay on the inner fender or firewall then to the positive battery post..  that has to be 7 to 12 feet on some chryslers..  i got that figure out of a 1966 imperial factory service manual... i have verified it many times...

feel free to print as many copies of this voltage drop test as you want.. i created it.. i have posted it thousands of times on other forums..  i have posted it on this forum a bunch of times but not in the last 5 or 6 years...   hopefully auto shop teachers on this forum will save that image and teach it in their class rooms and shops..  i used to go to friends shops with a bunch of copies and walk the techs thru it.. on a car in their lots..

  https://i.imgur.com/SnzhDh0.jpg   

i don't recall when i joined this forum.. 96 or so i think..

  lastly...  i use a 22 buck harborfreight multimeter item 61593 to do these.. but a 10 buck to 500 buck version will work...  i like that one as it has a 20 amp DC unfused setting for doing parasitic draw tests..

my test leads are 20 feet long each.. 18 gauge test lead wire..   banana plugs on one end...  js popper bent nose telco type test clips with bed of nails and piercing spike 

this is what i use.. https://www.allelectronics.com/item/alg-9/bed-of-nails-test-leads/1.html  connected to my 18 gauge test lead wire with a tiny ring terminal... the wire on these is tinsel .. audio level only.. not enough copper for multimeter use... so ditch the wire all the way to the screw inside under the boot..

why 20 foot long each.. i work on cars  and trucks... batteries in the trunk... batteries under the back seat... batteries under the front hood with engines in the rear..

HF sells a neat 30 foot wind up test lead set with 18 gauge test lead wire.. but the gators are cheap on the ends..

this is a limited item.. but a killer deal.. https://www.allelectronics.com/item/tl-128/test-leads-kit-with-pouch/1.html

  not nearly long enough... but so much better than just pointy probes..

there is so much more.. but i have probably lost most of you by this point..

wayne....

61593

 back in 1979 or 1980... i had a 66 GTO.. needed headers... had issues with crossmember sag.. happened to work near cyclone headers in north hollywood.. i stopped in on a friday afternoon and sat in their lobby.. across the room was a conversation i was not in but overheard clearly..

they were talking about Anti reversion headers for the 440-3 motor homes...  the prototype increased the fuel economy to 33 MPG... but it melted the  pistons as it went too lean.   they could never sell them as some customers would install them without doing the proper carb mods...

this thought bounced around my head for about 30 years...   some of you know i worked at a non sanctioned drag strip in the 83 and 84... most of my daytime hours was as race starter. i sent thousands of cars down the 1/8th mile.. including top fuel funny cars... top fuel dragsters... racers on foot... racers running backwards on foot... racers naked in their cars.. just a helmet..

some of the open header cars just annoyed me no end... sounded like mad men with hammers slapping the exhaust pulses..

mid 2000's... the mechanic across the street who i have known since we were 9 years old... built a high powered honda drag car..  no turbo.. but like 14 to 1 compression..  ported heads.. insane amount of money... but man that exhaust raspy noise just twisted my brain...  i looked under his car... behind the flex joint is the collector flange...  i grabbed a paper towel and sketched out a pipe with a tapered lead in to a straight section.. so he could just unbolt the collector and slip it in...   a few months later he called me... he had it on the bolt on dyno making tuning runs... he hated the noise also..  he slipped in the tuning pipe..  he went from 265 HP to 275HP with just that one change in 5 minutes... the car no longer was raspy.. it sounded like a healthy big block chevy now...

about 5 years ago.. i was visiting a friends shop.. the next door neighbor ran winged 360 and  410 sprint cars on dirt..

i mentioned about what i found out about the tuning tube...  he and i looked at his exhaust and discussed it... no place to really install it...  he then told me why he was so interested in it... this is over an hour in conversation in..  he said that he had dumped a bunch of money in as many brands of headers that would fit his car as possible...  they don't race any more...  son/driver got a job working on the new nasa telescope build..

he showed me a pile of headers... said one pair had stepped primaries.. but stepped in a different way.. they were stepped down... about 2/3rds of the way down the primary..  they made a lot more power at high end.. but they were already putting out over 800HP. and it was just too much for too short a time during the short straights..

so what am i talking about.. think of a header flange reducer... nice tapered inlet.. but it has a foot to 18 inches of straight section.. smaller than the exhaust pipe in that area but only slightly larger than the primary tubes...

this has a complex function.. the exhaust pulses coming out of the primary tubes into the collector scavenge off the other tubes.. but then the pulse leading edge moves into the tapered area and accelerates thru the straight tube... this creates a second scavenging effect..  lowering the pressure in the collector and the primary tubes..  so when the exhaust valve opens.. the pressure in the primary tubes is even lower... pulling out more exhaust gasses from the cylinder and more during overlap from the intake valve just closing..  imagine having a vacuum cleaner lowering the pressure in the collector and primaries...

beyond the tuning tube... any pulses that expand into the rest of the system slow down..  any reflections that bounce off the muffler or open pipes.. cannot get thru the tuning tube as the sped up exhaust flow is constant.. but the reversion from the muffler goes around the tuning tube into the tapered end and is squashed..  can't reflect back...

you will really want to have an wide band air fuel ratio display if you attempt this...

fittings in exhaust that look like an hourglass do part of this... but they don't have the extended tube to speed up the exhaust flow to create more scavenging..

can somebody create custom tuning tube inserts for their already finished exhaust... more than likely...

if you think.. old wayne has had a brain fart... next time you go to an air show.. look at the stub exhaust on a P51 mustang.. you will see an inner sleeve the same size as the exhaust port... and an outer sleeve around it.. they call it Anti Reversion .. i have seen Harleys with versions.. but again this is right at the exhaust port... the tuning tube after the collector lowers the entire pressure in the collector not just the exhaust port..

Hi Rodders.

over the past few years i have been messing around more and more with Idle Transition feed restrictions..

  in a Holley 4150, 4160. 4165 .. they could be in several locations depending on the age of the carb and who's metering block it is..

at idle the fuel is pulled from thru the Low Speed Circuit... idle feed restriction, thru the round idle feed passage below the primary throttle blade.  this idle fuel is limited by the tapered tip of the idle mixture screw...   the idle feed restriction and idle air bleeds measure in slightly at this point but lets speed this up..

  if your idle speed setting is proper... less than 10% of the idle transition slot is visible below the bottom of the throttle blade...  so any manifold vacuum pulling on that 10% below the blade pulls air and very little fuel from the idle transition slot..

as soon as you start to open the throttle you expose a larger percentage of idle transition slot.. you start feeding fuel into the air stream passing the ends of the throttle blade.. lowering the pressure on more and more of the idle transition slot to pull fuel progressively out...

from just off idle to around 1800 RPM... your engine is only getting fuel from the idle transition slot..  just above 1800  the air flow thru the venturi lowers the air pressure and starts to trickle the fuel out of the primary booster... the primary circuit increases until around 2400 RPM... as the idle transition slot is uncovered more the idle transition slot stops flowing..  no pressure drop across it..

if you have an air fuel ratio gauge...  a timing light... a mirror.. and a tachometer... look down the primary booster with the timing light flashing so you can see freeze frame of fuel  starting to trickle from the booster..  back off slightly till its not trickling..  look at the Tachometer...  look at your air fuel ratio... is it lean.. or rich...

at this RPM your engine is running on fuel pulled thru the idle feed restriction.. if its too small... the engine will be lean.. if its too big the engine will be RICH.. 

holley ships their new carbs with 0.031 IFR  sizes as that is what their flow bench is set up to measure...

a 0.031" idle feed restriction gives the proper low speed circuit air fuel ratio for a 327 to 331 cubic inch engine..

a 347 or 355 needs a 0.032" idle feed restriction..

i have found a 40 over 429SCJ with a holley needs a 0.035" idle feed restriction... 0.036 makes it a little tough to drive as you may not be able to feather the gas pedal enough to pull away from stop signs without spinning the tires with the lightest touch of the gas.

every engine/carb combo is different..  so you have to check yours..

ever seen a summit 8600VS carb..   actually a holley 2110...  those have idle feed restriction jet kits available for them... those are at the ends of the primary booster mounting flanges.. there is a neat pdf file ..

but wait.. i have an Edelbrock...

edelbrock AFB/AVS carbs have the idle feed restriction (economizer) hidden behind the air bleeds in the sides of the primary boosters...  so look down your primary boosters just below the speed the primary boosters start flowing.. are you rich or lean...

here is a sand away image of an carter AFB primary booster.. the end of the dental pick is at the idle feed restriction or Economizer 


changing main jets or main metering rods won't help tune out the flat spots.. as the primary main circuit is not even flowing..

why do you think that dyno runs start at 3000 RPM... because Both Holley and Edelbrock removed tuning the low speed/idle transition circuit from their carb manuals... why.. both answered to give professional carb tuners something to work with...

except so many professional carb tuners tune for wide open throttle..

guess what... lets tune the primary jets...

bring the rpms up till just before the secondaries are starting to open or flow... so the max amount of fuel is being pulled thru the primary main jets.. are you rich or lean at that point..  3500 to 4500 RPMs... again... before the secondary starts to flow..

enjoy the incredible throttle response off idle. the fuel economy in cruise at 1500 to 1800...

i hope this helps a few...

i got complaints from the guy with the 429SCJ... i described them above.. wayne.. i can't pull away from a stop sign or signal without spinning the tires.  i told him i can dial out some of the power.. he said.. no.. i love it...

once you get an edelbrock idle feed restriction tuned correctly...   you may want to have the engine idling in gear.. somebody on the brake.. loosen the screw on the primary rod piston cover.. just one..  swing the cover away.. is the manifold vacuum at idle in gear pulling the piston all the way down..  with the driver on the brake.. blip the throttle just slightly..  the spring pressure should start to overcome the manifold vacuum at around 1000 rpm against the converter. and start to lift... you should see fuel from the primary booster.  the coming up amount is tiny.. you may need to do this by slowly accelerating looking at your air fuel ratio sensor to make sure the engine does not go lean between the idle transition and the beginning of the primary fuel circuit delivery..

when doing idle feed restriction tuning... i have a dial caliper good for 0.001" or a micrometer also good for that.. so i can use the smooth end of my 61 to 80 drill bit set to see what size the idle feed restriction is.. so i know i can take it 0.001 larger at a time...  or you can get a Lincoln KH534 electric welding tip drill that has a bunch of sizes ...

Does anybody recall seeing the second part of the Matt Lauer interview of George W Bush after Obama was in..

Matt ask 43 what he thought of the $5 gasoline prices..

43 leaned back.. laughed and said the American Public will just have to learn the hard way of how supply and demand pricing really works...

 how many of you have seen the Dan Aykroyd movie Dragnet.. the pornographers house is actually a catholic nun retreat here in Los Angeles... in the mid 1980s. Same property Katy Perry was trying to buy.. . i was sent over to look at a broken car there..  i looked at it.. told them the cost to fix it.. the Rev Mother ask for the keys.. they were still in the car.. rev mother said. lock the car and bring back the keys..  as i returned and knocked on the door.. a novice Nun opened the door.. she was so pretty that i could not talk right.. i think i had the same effect on her.. i spotted the rev mother giggling off to the side.. all i could say were Kkkeeeeyyyysss.  the Rev Mother looked back and forth and realized that her prank had gone sideways.. she ripped the keys from my hand and slammed the door..  i took that as a signal to GTFO Now..  i still have the novices face burned in the back of my brain..  so i guess that would put me in the Perpetual joke club..

in all truth.. if that door had stayed open another 10 or 15 seconds.. i might have said lets go..

my worst nightmare would have been if the Rev mother has said.. ill be ready in 5 minutes..

 Just watching the news..

this popped up..

https://ktla.com/news/local-news/malibu-car-events-make-some-local-officials-want-to-switch-gears/

  if any of you have ever dealt with LA County Sheriff deputies.. they are going to impound every car there..

just thought i would share the heads up..

i let some of my friends who go there regularly already..

in reality its probably NOT safe to drive thru Malibu in a classic or exotic car without getting pulled over  and having your car impounded..

i was on Van Nuys blvd the last night of cruising.. decades ago.. i was at the last Thursday night crenshaw shopping center gathering about the same time.

over the early 80s.. i probably fixed half a dozen cars in the parking lot of Tommy burgers in van nuys across from the busch beer plant at 2 or 3 o clock saturday or sunday mornings..

things just got out of control.. with youngsters with crazy driving.. and booming car stereos..

 

just noticed that Tail light converters are available for trailers with LED tail lights..

but what happens to people installing LED tail lights on their cars and trucks..

perhaps installing one in the car or truck to supply the LED tail lights would solve so many issues needing to use resistors to get the load up..


i have not tried it.. but it was a good enough thought i thought i would put it on a football tee to see it kicked around..

just sitting and surfing the web mostly.. hanging out over on https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/ and searching for interesting content on youtube..

how many of you on your cell phones have noticed youtube shorts.  its a new link on the bottom menu.  and you flip up to the next video.

several projects in process..  helping a friend put a full floater 9" under the back of his 66 Fairlane 500 .   been discussing Holley tuning with the friend with the 427SOHC .. he has a set of proper carbs for it..  but was wondering..... he was told they have no power valves..  his are identical to these.. http://www.mustangtek.com/4160/C5AF-9510-BT-BU.html  the last set i set up for the 428FE dual quad galaxy used 1850-3's  with changing out the primary throttle shafts so they worked with the dual quad progressive linkage.   i was really happy with it.  but he decided to have the C6 rebuilt and the transmission shop swapped out his 1800 to 2200 stall converter for a stock one with much lower stall and they screwed with the progressive throttle linkage.. forcing it to open 1 to 1..  the cars is in storage currently.. so i can't really get to it to redo the carbs..   so now you know what i am up to..

just surfing the internet..

ran across this 32 ford  twin engine roadster that some of you will know or have seen..

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/apple-valley-1932-ford-roadster/7359289006.html

i don't know how long the ad will stay up..

+ me on that.  

Wayne that turned out slicker'n owl snot on a greased glass doorknob, I tell you whut.    Nice shoehorn job.

I've been dipped in that area before on the 70 Mach 1 job, just fitting a brake knob and header clearance on Z bar with headers on a 351 though. Not a happy place to access.

Dennis has been busy wedging stuff in his mustang.  he is still building headers for it..  the aluminum heads have raised exhaust ports so it makes it tighter..  i think he has settled for Tri Y design instead of 4 equal or at equal as he can get primaries.

the clutch is going to be a McLeod concentric hydraulic slave and pedal linkage of so kind.. clutch master set up still in design ..