Topics

Lost my link, but finally found my way back.

I have an ABS question.  Can you change from 225/55R17 to 235/55R17 tires on one axle without screwing up the ABS?  It's a 2013 Impala.

I have 2 decent 235s left over from another vehicle and hate to buy two new 225s if I can avoid it.  Cheap ya know.

thx.

Hi all,

Long time, no posts, busy, busy, busy.

I could use some assistance.  I have a couple of cases of injector cleaner that have lost their pressure.  These are the kind that screw onto the fuel rail with a hose connector with threads on each end.  My question is:  Is there any safe way to re-pressurize the cans without blowing them up?  I have a fair assortment of valves, hoses, adapters, etc. from three different fuel injection service tool kits so I can surely find a way to connect them.  Has anyone else done this?

Thanks for any help.

It's good to be back.

.bjb

I found an original Mustang II manual rack and pinion in a guy's junk pile.  It looks like someone tried to replace something inside.  One of the inner ends is pulled out about a foot.

Is there any way to re-assemble this, or should I put it back in the scrap.  I was hoping to put it back together as a spare since both of my cars have one.

Suggestions?

thx

.bjb

Hi all,

Once upon a time a ran across a link to a great article on Holley carbs and how to jet them leaner and insert wires in the air bleeds to lean out the idle.  Any suggestions.  I've lost the link.

It's for my 34 chevy, 327 with an Offy cross ram, a little Comp cam, and a single 700 Holley double pumper.  I've run the manifold before with a smaller carb and no problems (that was 20 years ago).  But this double pumper is really rich.  New kit and power valves, anti backfire kit, electric choke.

Anyone know of a good carb tuning link?

Thanks
.bjb

Hi friends,  

I'm in a quandry.  My brakes have never been great, so it's time to fix them before all the summer trips.

It's a 33 Chevy sedan w/ mustang independent suspension.  The front and rear brakes are 74 Nova; disc front and drum rear.  The master cylinder is under the floor, not sure what it'd from or bore size.  The booster is about 7" diameter but don't know its origin either.  From the looks of it I'd say salvage yard.  The proportioning valve looks to be  OE from the same Nova donor car.  I'm inclined to trash the master cylinder, prop valve, and booster all together.  The stuff at the wheels all looks to be ok and/or has been replaced.  

I've never been able to lock up any of the brakes.  There have been times (especially going downhill) that I was braking for all I was worth and still wasn't slowing the car down any.  My suspicion is that I'm pretty much using rear brakes only.  I put new rotors on about three years ago and they still look brand new.  

I'm finding lots of choices in the aftermarket, so here are my questions.

What bore size should I use?  OE on the Nova was 1 1/8".  Most of what I have found is 1".  Seems like bigger would push more fluid, yes-no?

Should I be using a residual valve on the discs?  I don't have one now (this may be a big part of my problem), unless it's built into the prop valve.

Do we like the aftermarket adjustable proportioning valves?  or should I go with the OE type?

I appreciate any and all suggestions.  It would be nice to leave real skid marks, not the replica kind.

thanx.

.bjb

I'm needing a few nutserts for a project I'm working on.  

It appears that 3/8" is the largest.  They offer a lot of kits with several sizes included.  It appears that my best route would be to purchase the tool and then packages of 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8".  I can't see me using any of the smaller sizes.

I need to attach some things to the firewall and can't easily access that area (too old and fat, also dizzy when upside down).

Any input??

thx,

.bjb

Can anyone tell me where the knock sensors are located on a 2005 Avalanche 1500 w/ 5.3L? There are apparently two of them.

Mechanic claims he has to remove a manifold to get to it.  Don't know if he means intake or exhaust.  It's my son's vehicle 1500 miles away.

Autozone has an online component locator, but this vehicle isn't one they list.

Thanks if you can help.

.bjb

Does anyone know how the cylinders are numbered on 2009-2011 Infiniti FX50 and M56?  Are they 1357 on the left and 2468 on the right like Chevy, or 1234 on the left and 5678 on the right like Ford, or something else?

thanks for any help.

.bjb

1933 Chevy sedan.  How do I get the pins out of the hood hinges?

thx,

.bjb

I've got some 3/8" aluminum tubing that I'm using for a water bypass.  Is there any trick to flaring this?  Should it be single or double flare?  It will carry antifreeze and water at about 18 psi.  

thx,

.bjb

So I bought some really ROUGH valve covers from a guy on the HAMB and decided to try my hand at making them shiny.  I started with emery paper and sandpapers of various grits.  Then I bought a cheapo polishing kit at Harbor Freight, one with 2 blocks of polish and 2 polishing pads that go in a drill.  What I did so far looks amazingly good I think, but I was wondering if I was doing it right.  First of all speed.  I've seen these pads on bench grinder motors before and it seems they run a lot faster than I've been running the drill.  Which works better, faster or slower?  Next is pressure.  Should I lean on it pretty hard when polishing the covers, or is a lighter touch more desirable?  Finally, how do you clean out the pads when they load up?

Thanks for any input.

.bjb

Does anyone have any experience w/ late GM power wiindows?  My 01 and 05 Lesabres are both going through regulators.  I've replace one on the 05 and 2 on the 01 and now the 01 needs another; and this one I've changed before.  The motors are all OK, it's the cable mechanism that fails.  The cable bunches up and then jams.  Finally some crappy piece of plastic breaks and it all goes to pot.  Of course you can't buy the cable parts, you have to buy the whole regulator assembly with motors.

Any suggestions?

thx,

.bjb

When I bought my 33 Chevy the previous owner had drilled and tapped threads into the intake manifold that led into the water jackets at cylinders 7 and 8.  He ran hose from those holes to a spacer under the thermostat housing.  He said it helped in cooling the rear cylinders.  I had never seen that done before.  Last night at a cruise in I saw a similar mod on a big block Chevelle, except that on it the hose ran from front to rear water jackets; like from cylinder 1 to 7 and 2 to 8.

Does this really help?  Does it cool the engine more, or does it just even out the temp at different locations in the block?

Thanks for your input.

.bjb

Maybe some of you folk in cold country have experienced this.  2005 Lesabre.  When outside temps get below 5 degrees, the speedometer gains speed.  This weekend it was about 1 degree and the needle went all the way around past 140mph and ended up pointing to R on the gear selector.  This happened once before when I was in Colorado, but is self corrected when I got out of the cold country and into Denver.

Any idea of a cause?  Anyone have a schematic?  I don't know if the VSS controls the speedometer directly, or if it feed the computer and the computer feeds the speedo.  Everything else seems OK.  Tach works normally, cruise control works normally.  Didn't experience any engine shutdown issues when it went over 120.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

.bjb

Sorry if this is a dupe of someone elses post.  A friend emailed me this link.  http://www.vaautoracing.org/

A good place to while away the hours waiting for the snow to melt.

.bjb

On a small block Chevy, can I put a radiator fan switch in the block where the drain plug is?  Right now the only place I have for it is in the thermostat housing.  There is only one hole in the manifold and that's where my gauge is.  Would that low on the block be a feasible location for either the switch or the gauge?

thx,


.bjb

Hi,

I'm getting ready to install the windshield in my 34 Chevy coupe.  I have the rubber gasket and I need to know what to seal it with.  A local glass guy told me not to use any silicone product.  He said to use a urethane adhesive to install it.  Since this guy has a tendancy to have a lot in common with a stopped up sewer, I thought I'd check with the experts.  Any informed opinions here?

Where can one obtain this urethane adhesive?

Thanks for your help.

.bjb

Hi,

I changed to an inch shorter tire tonight.

Will my speedometer now read faster than I'm going or slower.

thx,

.bjb

I bought some used aluminum wheels a couple of years ago and am finally installing them.  They have some spots and tarnish on them.  What's the best way to clean and polish these without breaking the bank?  Is there any sealer I should apply after they are clean and shiny.


Steel wool? Scotch brite pads?  Wenol?  I'd appreciate any suggestions.


Oh, there's no coating on them, just aluminum wheels.


thx,

.bjb

I'm looking for some bedliner type stuff that brushes or rolls on; like undercoating but something that will dry and not be tacky.  I'm wanting to coat some inner fender panels and parts of the trunk.  I'm hoping for some sound deadening, insulation, and rust protection.

I'd prefer a dark blue, but dark black would be acceptable.

What do you recommend?

thx,
.bjb

After a many year hiatus, I finally got my coupe running tonight.  I now realize that I have no place to put the fan switch.  There are 2 coolant holes in the manifold, one for the heater hose and one for the temp gauge.  I currently have the fan switch in the thermostat housing.  I don't care for it there.  I'd rather put it in the block or manifold.  There are no holes in the heads.  As I see it I have 2 choices; put an ugly tee in where the gauge hooks in, or put a switch low in the block where the petcock drains are.  Are either of these choices feasible?  I've never seen anyone put a switch in a tee or low on the block.  Would it work??  I'm using old (1963) heads, is there enough wall thickness in them to drill and tap a hole like on later heads?   Oh, small block Chevy by the way.

thx,

.bjb

Hi all,

I'm using rectangular rocker switches on my power windows and some other stuff.  I got the holes cut as tight as I could, but the switches still move about a bit in the dash.  Is there any way to snug them up so they don't move or rattle.  I thought about wrapping a tie strap around them, or maybe a lasso made of string or cord that I could pull tight.  Maybe a bead of RTV around the edge inside the dash would do it.  I don't know.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

thanks.

.bjb

I'm looking for a space saver spare tire for my street rod.  I'd prefer one that is already inflated and not one of those goofy air-up with a can kind.  I need a Ford 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern.  I've got discs on the front if that matters.  Did they ever make such an animal?

thx,

.bjb

I'm putting timing gears and chain on my Buick.  What's the trick to getting the balancer off of a 2001 Buick Lesabre 3800?  I got the big bolt out but the balancer isn't budging.  I don't see any threaded holes for conventional pullers.  I've put timing chains on Buicks before but don't remember having trouble getting the balencer off.  Those were earlier models though.

Any suggestions?

thx,

.bjb

Hi all,  
Many years ago I pirated some combination shoulder/lap seat belts from some kind of car I parted out.  My best recollection is 71 Lemans, but my memory isn't always 100%.  And besides mey memory isn't always 100%.  Anyway, these belts have a push button/cable assembly about 6 inches long that gets pushed in when the doors are closed.  I haven't found any decent looking way to install this thing.  My question is, can the button/cable thing be removed without hurting the function of the belts?  Can I just install them in the pushed-in position and have them still work?

Hope someone knows.

thx,

.bjb

Anyone know what the bolt circle is on a '96 Taurus?

thx,

.bjb

Hey Frank,

Some time back you mentioned putting a sway bar off of an S10 on a Mustang II suspension.

Did it work OK?
What years of S10 would that be?

thx,


.bjb

About 4 years ago I ordered glass for my coupe at the NSRA nats in Springfield.  When it arrived I was in the midst of a move to a house with no shop.  So, after 2 moves and waiting for the shop to be built I finally got around to opening the glass.  I had requested one piece door glass since I was removing the quarter windows.  Well, the glass was about 2 inches too long.  And it was tempered so I couldn't take it anywhere locally and have it trimmed.  I contacted the vendor, Vintage Glass of Lawrenceville GA, to see if they could help.  Long story short, he sent me the correct glass.  This was 4 years later.  He replace it with no questions, and even apologized for the mixup.

I'll use them again.

.bjb

I'm wanting to paint between the fins on my Cal Custom covers.  I'm using regular car paint, not rattle cans.  

Do I need to use primer?

thx,

.bjb

When I bought this car (33 Chev sedan 327) the previous owner had drilled and tapped holes in the intake manifold that open into the water jacket at the rear of the heads.  He had 3/8" hose plumbed forward and hooked into the upper radiator hose.  He said he had done it because "all those small blocks run hot".  I took all that junk off and plugged the holes and have been running it for 3 years without overheating.  On the highway it just touches the red, but I never lose any water or boil over.  I can idle around the fairgrounds at a 180.

Recently I have noticed that the gauge goes to the hot peg after about a 2 mile drive.  By the time I find a place to pull off the road and check things out, the car is back to 180 degrees.  Then it runs correctly the rest of the day.  It just pegs the gauge on the initial warmup.   I've changed the sender and the thermostat with no change.  I'm assuming the gauge is bad.

This weekend at a car show, I saw an original 50s rod that was right out of the barn.  It had a small block with a blower on it.  It had holes drilled and tapped at the same location as mine, and there were petcocks installed there.  Has anyone ever run into this before?  Are the petcocks to let air out when filling the radiator or what?

Any ideas?

thx,

bjb

I got these at a swap meet for 20 bucks.  I was just curious what kind of car they came from.  Stamping numbers are 2006768 and 2006769.

thx,

.bjb

Does anyone know of a website that has leaf spring specs?  I'd like to find something less mushy for my 33 Chevy sedan.  The ones on the car look new, but they sit too low for my tastes and I don't like carrying so much air in the shocks just to hold the car up.  Also, I had to put on some traction bars to keep the pinion from climbing up whenever I accelerate.

They are 1 3/4" wide and about 54" long center to center.

Any suggestions?

thx,

.bjb

I'm looking for trim for a soft top kit like Juliano's sells.  I'd buy their kit, but they only offer black or white, and I want blue.  Anyway, I can buy everything I need locally except for the aluminum track that goes around the perimeter and the snap on vinyl cover that goes over it.  Any suggestions?  I've checked Lebaron Bonney and Hampton Coach web pages, but they are no help-you have to call to get any information.  Surely I'm not the only one in this boat.

thx,

.bjb

Here's an easy way to tighten header bolts and minimize knuckle busting.

Buy a cheap wrench of the appropriate size.
Cut the end off.
Weld it back on the side.
Grind sorta smooth.
Tighten your header bolts.
Much easier to use than it looks.

.bjb

I'm trying to install my Cal Custom valve covers on my 327 and there's some interference.  I'm using an Offenhauser crossram which was pretty tight against my tin covers.  But these aluminum ones won't go on on the passenger side.  No matter how I maneuver it, it won't go on.  I determined that it was interfering with the tips of the rocker arms.  Strangely enough, when I removed the third rocker arm from the front, the cover dropped right on.  Now I'm guessing that one of the studs is mis-aligned (the're the OE press in kind).  

Does anyone know if I can gain any clearance by using roller rockers.  The problem is the inboard end, the end the pushrod goes into.  It looks like I only need maybe .100" at the most, maybe not even that much.  I didn't really want to try to bend the stud.  

BTW, the other side fits fine.

Any ideas?

thx,

.bjb

Does anyone besides Juliano's make a kit for a soft top for coupes and sedans?  I want to put a blue top on my 34 chevy coupe, but Juliano's only has black and white.  I bought a tan kit from them years ago, but I called them and they can't get the plastic trim in any colors but black and white.  Anyone ever tried painting the trim?  

thx,

bjb

I'm finally getting around to re-assembly on my 34 Chevy coupe and I'm having trouble with the cowl vent.  Does anyone have a photo or a line drawing of all the springs and levers that operate the cowl vent?  34 and 35 should be the same... probably sedans too.   :?

thanks for your help.

.bjb

I'm looking for an idle stop solenoid (sometimes called a kicker solenoid) that I can adapt to my Holley.  I need it to bump the idle up when the A/C is on.  Fabricating a bracket is no problem.  Does anyone know of a universal one that is available?

thx,

.bjb

Went to a huge cruise in Belton MO tonight.  Had a good time.

Got in to drive home and the shifter felt "funny".  Got on the highway and found that I had no high gear.  Stopped to check it out and found that I also had no neutral or reverse.  Park worked, but it felt like it was still in gear because it wouldn't rev up like it normally does in park.  It wasn't trying to move the car like you were power braking, but it still seemed to be holding the engine back.  Drove all the way home in second gear(20 miles).  First and second seem to be working fine.

It's my 33 chevy w/ 327 and TH350, no electrics.  It was in the car when I bought it, so don't know anything about it.  I did put a filter and new front and rear seals in a couple of years ago.

I'm hoping it's a piece of linkage fell off the valve body or something.  I'll tear into it tomorrow.  Any suggestions?

.bjb

On the outside chance you have this problem....

Today I had a PC lockup so I hit Ctrl-Alt-Del to stop the program.  Next thing I know, the picture on my monitor was upside down.  I called several geek friends who, of course, never heard of such a thing.  So I turned the monitor upside down and did an online search.  I found that Ctrl-Alt-up arrow would fix it.

I must have hit Ctrl-Alt-down arrow by mistake to turn it upside down.  Wierd huh!

Now you can use this knowledge to amuse your friends.

.bjb

Anyone going to Springfield, Mo at the end of May?  We'll be leaving KC around 8:30 AM Friday after the rush hour clears.  Probably roll in in the early afternoon.

Hope to see some of you there.

.bjb

Hi friends,

I'm trying to keep from having my car stolen again.  I'm getting my new steering column next week, but the car still has to sit outside until I get my shop built.

Does anyone know of a shield or cover that would prevent such an easy theft?  It's a 1985 El Camino.

Thanks,  

.bjb

Hi all,

I've searched the archive and found a recommendation for alignment specs for rods with Must II type suspensions.  What I found was camber 1 degree positive, caster 2 degrees positive, and toe-in 1/32 for radial tires.  Does this seem correct to everyone?  :?

The car is a 33 chevy sedan.  I don't know the origin of the suspension.  I checked Heidt's and they don't make a kit for this car.  All of the components appear to be the same as Mustangs I have disassembled in the past.  The only exception is the outer tie rods, which are a couple of inches longer than the stock Mustang.

Thanks for your help.

Also, thanks Frank for getting the site back up.  I was in withdrawal for a couple of days there.  I'm much better now.

.bjb

Some SOB stole my El Camino a few days ago.  It was recovered the next day, but the cops didn't notify me for about 5 days.  By then I was kind of used to it being gone.  But I had to cough up $158 for towing and storage.  They took my tag, spare tire, tool box, tilt wheel lever, and shift knob.  Plus now I have to fix the column.  

I wish the guy had wrapped himself around a tree.

.bjb

Hi experts,

33 Chevy sedan, 327/350, A/C.  Where is the better location for a radiator fan switch and the temperature gauge sender?  I have outlets in the driver's side head and in the intake manifold.  Which should go where?  I guess the real question is which part of the engine is hotter?

Thanks,


.bjb                      

Hi friends,

This has been discussed before, but I can't find it using the search function.  I'm preparing to build a new shop and would like the skinny on heating systems.  Concerns are initial costs, ease of installation, usage costs, safety (going to be painting in there), and anything else anyone has to offer.  I figure the best time to ask is now, before the first spade of dirt is turned.

Suggestions?  Oh, it's going to be 24x30.  I have access to electricity and natural gas.

thx.


.bjb

Hi all,

I'm not too fond of late model posts either, but this is keeping me from working on the good car.  I've got a '90 Lesabre 3.8 V6.  I've replace the module, coil pack, cam sensor, and plug wires.  Plugs look like new.  I can start this car and it will run like a clock for as long as I let it run.  But if I shut it off, it will not restart unless it cools down for at least an hour.  It has no spark.  I do have battery voltage at the module.  I have actually tried 3 different modules and coil packs.  I had one set I took off of another car that ran, and also a new coil and module.  I've had all the modules tested off the car and all test OK.

Any suggestions?

thx.


.bjb              

Hi friends,

A buddy of mine has a 57 Chevy half ton with worn out front wheel bearings.  They are the old ball bearing style.  He has checked several vendors and they are all nearly the same price for four bearings and two seals....$250.00!  Does anyone know of a supplier that can change these over to the better, cheaper tapered roller style without too much modification?

Thanks in advance for any help.


.bjb

Saw this Stude at a local show in Independence, KS.  It started life as a 4 door sedan.  They added some GM wagon side windows and built a roof to fit.  Runs a 472 Caddy engine.  Very nice.

.bjb

Hi all,

A friend of a friend of a friend has some old vehicles on Ebay.  I have no stake in this, just thought someone might be looking.  Former owner died and widow is liquidating.  

Frank, if you view this as spam, please kill the post.

thx,

.bjb

Ebay#s

2481051509
2481052215
2481053163
2481053810