Messages

I can't tell from looking at your picture but I had the same problem on my 53 chevy.  My buddy had reinstalled the springs on it & I noticed that the hood didn't fit at the rear & was sticking up just like yours.
 After looking it over I compared the spring position with his 52 chevy & discovered he had installed the springs 180 deg different than his 52. This could happen by installing the right spring to the left side & vice versa also.
 I removed the left spring & spun it 180 & reinstalled it then did the same with the right spring.  Wallaaa. Problem solved as it fit like brand new!
 I made a spring tool from 1/2" rebar by measuring spring length with the hood up then cutting the rebar about 1 1/2" longer.  Then I tapered each end & cut a notch to fit the spring diameter in the center of each taper. Then you just open the hood up & insert the rebar thru the center of the spring making sure the lower notch is centered on the bottom hook of the spring. Lower the hood just enough to center the upper notch in the upper spring hook.  Raise the hood and the rebar is captured by the spring keeping it extended so you can remove the spring safely.  
 Don't know if this is your problem, just sharing my solution.
Good luck,  Bud

Hey, Thanks everyone for the replys & the humor!
My cousin has a 1927 Bugatti replicar which was built on a 1960 VW chassis & it  has developed an oil leak. So when he stops by theres always a puddle left.
I have offered several times to go over to his place & pull the motor to replace the seal but as he just turned 70 yrs old all he says is "oils cheaper than doin that".
So, I'm off to Wally World to purchase a large cookie pan which I will promptly give to him on his next visit.
 Thanks again all,
   Bud

Whats the best way to clean up oil drips from cement driveways?

Thanks, Bud

I don't think it's a venting problem...it's at idle and just off idle where it's the worse. At  w.ot. it's not a problem.

It's easy to determine if the 2 air/fuel idle adjusting circuit is faulty by simply adusting the screws by a coupla turns or so  either in or out while listening for the engine RPM to drop.
If theres no drop in RPM that circuit is clogged. Remove the idle screw & use an air gun (I set mine at 40psi) & give it a quick blast of air. Reinstall the adj screw & run it into where it just seats then back out about 1-1/2 to 2 turns. Start the engine & then fine tune to your liking, either centered between the RPM drop points or a bit rich (out) or a bit lean (in).
I like my Edelbrock just fine.
Just FYI,  Bud

1. Ok, old fogie?.....guilty.

2. Newbie?....guilty. (Feb 2010)

3. Not posting?....guilty.(If I have something to add I do).

4. Want to see nothing but pre 70's posts?....innocent. (My son is an absolute 442 freak! His buddy is a camero nut.)

5. Have I felt not a part of RRT?.....innocent. (Every question I posted was answered, I have posted replys to questions & even a short story. What more from a forum could I expect?)

After analyzing my Pro/Con list above I believe if I start posting a bit more & slipping in a post occasionally for my Son or his buddy we can continue this friendship. We will try to do our part.

Is this a correct assumption?

Thanks be to all who maintain this great forum & if you decide in the end to close it we will be losing a good friend. :!:

Thanks,  Bud

Sweet ride!  What color will you be painting it?
Bud

35 to 40 Ft. Lbs.     From a 1957 Ford shop manual ..." Carrier to housing bolts" .....



Bob.....

Thanks Bob,  
Bud  

For my 57 10 bolt rearend can anyone tell me what the torque should be for the 10 nuts that hold the punkin in the housing? I am using the copper washers on each stud.
Thank You,
Bud

Me too. smallpcnetKGH   Can this be stopped?  
Thanks,
Bud

I had to pull the rear end out of my 53 (w/ 57 rear end) & reset the preload on the pinion. It was making a little noise when I'd ease off from drive to coast.
When I pulled the punkin & inspected it the case that holds the spider gears in place had some curved lines about every inch across it. The pinion gear was just barely touching the carrier case on deceleration causing these marks.
 I originally pulled the punkin & had someone rebuild it & set it up (he did a very good job because I checked backlash & preload before I installed it)
Thinking back, after driving it everything was fine, no noise, but after a couple days I seen the pinon seal was leaking. So I took the whole  car back to him & he had his young helper replace the seal. Well the seal was fixed but after that I started just ocasionally hearing a wierd noise & as it turns out he didn't get the preload set properly.  As time went on the noise began to show up a little more, which led to my "punkin patch" this weekend.
I set the preload & checked the backlash & installed the punkin last night. Today I hope to get a test drive in between rain showers.
I know this is a little long but you asked.
Thanks,
Bud

My son left this on my steps last week.  So, my garage clock is now retired also

He found it at a swap meet & said it had dad written all over it.  Thought you folks might enjoy it too.

Thanks,
Bud

Is this what you're looking for?

http://stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=3089&location_id=3755&go=SearchStantPopular

 I checked on their website. But they don't have one for my ol 53.  I may be able to modify it so next time I go to the parts store I'll check one out.
Thank you much,
Bud

The Hagan cap won't work on your old Chev or any other old car. The cap has a thread on it. You will have to buy the kit as shown and weld/glue the new pipe to your old pipe.

I see.  Will the new pipe slip over the old pipe or is it the same size :?:
Thank you Harry,
Bud

Does anyone know where I can get a gas cap for my 53 chevy that has a small round spring loaded door in the center which accepts the current fuel nozzles   :?:
Thanks,
Bud

Some information here at Hagan  http://www.haganauto.com/category_s/43.htm

John

Bingo!  Thats exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks John,  Bud

Does anyone know where I can get a gas cap for my 53 chevy that has a small round spring loaded door in the center which accepts the current fuel nozzles   :?:
Thanks,
Bud