Topics

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/webb-motorworks-is-building-an-all-electric-small-block-%e2%80%9cchevy%e2%80%9d/ar-BB13K8Zh?li=BBnb4R5

Can anyone tell me the size and pitch of the body threads of a Mopar ball joint?

It is the upper screw-in ball joint, (Moog # K772) and has a 1-15/16" hex.  ....I was told this is the smaller of two sizes of screw-in ball joints which Chrysler used.

I have been able to find the specs of the tapered stud, but I need the size of the body threads.

Thanks for any help.

[to our Canadian participants.]

...to our Canadian participants.

I enjoyed following the progress of your build and tuning.

Thanks!

Inquiring minds want to know!  

"LITTLE ROCK — A New Jersey man was killed after a truck collided with his motorcycle on Interstate 40 eastbound, April 24th.

According to the Arkansas State Police, Charles D. Dziedzic, 59, of Morristown, N.J., died when he and two other riders on different motorcycles, George J. Falzarano, 64, and Robert Falzarano, 58, both of Stirling, N.J., were hit by James T. Hearon, 44, driving a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe near the 173.5 mile-marker.

According to the report, Hearon failed to yield to the slowing traffic in front of him and hit all three motorcycles, all Harley-Davidson bikes. Hearon's vehicle overturned after impact.

Hearon and George Falzarano were transported to University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences for treatment, while Robert Falzarano was sent to Baptist Medical Center.

All three motorcyclists were wearing helmets, according to the police report."

.......................I grew up with the two survivors, and routinely see them around our hometown.  .... They have serious injuries and are not yet stable enough to return to New Jersey.

Ironically, Bob (Robert) was a police officer (and later, police chief) for 27 years.  ....He has taken much ribbing over the years because he would not drive over the speed limit.  ....He always felt it would be hypocritical to issue someone else a summons if he was guilty himself.

Traffic was stopped on I-40 due to a minivan on fire in the left lane.  ....The 3 motorcyles were stopped when they were nailed from behind.

Is there much variance in the mfd (capacitance) of condensers used in ignition systems?

What determines the amount of capacitance required?  

How critical is the rating?

Is the condenser affected by the voltage of the ignition system (6v vs. 12v) ??

I realize there are various mounting configurations, wire lengths, and case dimensions, but I'm only wondering about the internals.

If I knew this info at one time, I have forgotten it.  ....Maybe, I never knew!

[really]

I've been fighting with a stubborn O2 sensor for a few hours with no success in removing it from its bung.

Tried penetrants, shocking with an air chisel, and lots of leverage on a wrench, but no luck.

There's no visible rust on the pipe, bung, or sensor. .....The bung is in a pipe that I really do not want to remove.

Any suggestions on how to remove it?  .....Would heat from a torch help?

Thanks in advance for any helpful tips!

[Any help is greatly appreciated!!]

I recently bought a used wood chipper which was running well for the past few months.  ....Yesterday when I tried to start it, no spark!

I know my way around point-style ignition, but this thing has electronic ignition, and I don't know what to do.  ....Any help is greatly appreciated!!

The engine is a 1990 Ford Industrial 300ci inline six.  

There only appears to be 3 components involved:  an ignition coil, the pick-up coil in the distributor, and an aluminum "box" (ignition amplifier?).

The secondary side (plug wires, cap, rotor) all appear to be in good condition.

Suggestions or guidance on how to locate the faulty component is what I need.

Thanks in advance for any responses!

My brother-in-law has a 1996 F-150 with a solid bench seat.

He's curious to learn if Ford ever made a bench seat with a fold-down armrest in the center of the seatback, that would bolt directly into his truck.

I thought someone here would know.  

Thanks for any insight you can offer!

Here is a link to an interesting video.

It is a 9-1/2 min video so dial-up users may not want to bother trying to download.


http://www.opb.org/programs/ofg/videos/view/56-Electric-Drag-Racing

In another thread, Hotrod47 wrote:

"You could buy the plastic/ fiberglass one and I have a friend that can "paint" it chrome. He sprays anything from wood to metal to import car front bumpers and small dash knobs etc in chrome. It actually looks really nice."


Is anyone familiar with this process?  .....I'd like to learn more about it.

I understand it is a cold process, and requires no dipping or buffing to get a very good chrome appearance.

Supposedly it is durable enough to be used on exterior or interior parts, and is suitable for use on metallic, or non-metallic, items.  ......Pot-metal parts which disolve in acid baths can safely be chromed with this process.

Imperfections can be filled with Bondo and smoothed before the coating is applied.  ....The coating does not need to be rubbed out, so the smoother the prep is done, the better the finished item will be.

The process is not the same as the vacuum metalizing process which model car kits utilized for the chrome pieces.

Is there a name for the process?  ....How is it done? .....How does it hold up?    .....Is it expensive?  


 .... I know, lots of questions!    ....Thanks for any info offered.

I'm trying to learn the wheel bolt pattern for early Fords ('37-'38 ?) with the large bolt circle.   ....I need number of lugs and bolt circle diameter.  ....Were these 16" wheels?


I'm also trying to learn the same info for the VW Beetles of the 60's.  .....These were 15" rims??


Any help and info is greatly appreciated!   ......I tried a Google search but didn't find what I want to know.

Thanks in advance!

Frank,  I'm curious to learn what the cause of your high-beam/dashlight/ignition problem turned out to be.

I assume you must have solved it by now, which is good for you, but I'd like to learn from your troubles, also.   Thanks!


Jack:  Were you able to correct your brake problems on the coupe?  ....If so, would you mind sharing, also?   Thanks!

I don't know if it is a problem on my end, or if the board has changed again.


The day and time of the last posts no longer appear on the board.  ....That makes it more difficult to track which posts have already been viewed.

Do I need to change a setting to make it appear the way it did previously?

[thought]

Slightly off topic, but this practice may spread to your area soon!


I purchased a new Toyota vehicle yesterday.  ..... Well, at leat least I thought I did.

The vehicle was in the showroom and already prepped.  We agreed on the price, signed the sales contract, and shook hands with the salesman.

The vehicle was removed from the showroom and a customer rep explained all the controls and features of the vehicle, and handed my wife the keys.  ......All we had to do was pay for it.

We were handed off to another employee who processed the registration and licensensing forms.   ......I was given a bunch of forms to sign, which is not unusual.

Along with the licensing documents, I had to sign a statement confirming the 14 miles displayed on the odometer, and another statement stating that the dealer owed no additional equipment on the vehicle.  They also required proof of an existing insurance policy.  ....No problem!

The next document handed to me for my signature was an arbitration agreement, wherein I would forfeit any and all future claims against the dealer in a court of law, for any matter or dispute pertaining to the sale of this vehicle.   .....The agreement stipulated that binding arbitration was the only remedy I could pursue if any claims arise in the future regarding this vehicle purchase, and I would waive a trial by judge or jury.

The arbitration agreement further stated that the arbitrator would be selected by the dealer, and conducted on the dealer's premises, and costs would be paid as dictated by the arbitrator.   .......  (Hmmmm!!  Who do you suppose would have their interests best represented?)

Although I am opposed to frivolous lawsuits, and  class-action suits, I could see that signing this arbitration agreement was not in my best interest.  

When I declined to sign the arbitration agreement, the dealer informed me that they would not sell me the vehicle unless I signed the agreement.

I refused again to sign the agreement, and again I was told they would not give me the car unless I signed.    ......As I walked out of his office, my wife responded by leaving the keys on his desk, because she knew I would not sign.

When I told the salesman that the sale was cancelled, he thought I was joking, until he saw the steam coming out of my ears!    He quickly ran for his manager, who assured me that this was the dealer's policy, and that I was the first person who ever objected to the agreement.  ....When I asked if he or the salesman would sign such an agreement, both said they had never read it.

I thanked the salesman for his time with me, and told him that if this matter was resolved to my satisfaction, that I would still purchase the vehicle.  If not, then they wanted the vehicle more than me!  ..... I was told someone would contact me in the next few days, so we left.

When we arrived home, I phoned a respected friend to hear his opinion of the arbitration agreement.   ......Could I be the ONLY azzhole on Earth?

My friend Googled "car dealer arbitration agreement" and found some interesting reading.  ...He passed on this link to me:   http://www.commondreams.org/scriptfiles/views03/1206-09.htm
which may be helpful to some of you.

Has anyone else encountred this issue, and what was the outcome?

I apologize for being long-winded, but I wanted to relay the events accurately.

I know these have been discussed several times in the past, but for some reason the search feature failed to locate the old threads for me.

I know Sumner and several others have purchased and recommended these HVLP spray guns.

Has anyone used them for spraying lacquer with good results?

Which model # should I be considering?

Thanks in advance for your help!

I am trying to locate a clear (non-tinted) driver's-side Quarter glass for a 1965 Olds F-85 coupe (w/post).

The glass I need was used on '64-'65 Olds F-85, '64-65 Pontiac LeMans, and '64-65 Buick Specials.

The local glass suppliers and junkyards are of no help.

Does anyone know of a source for obsolete glass, or have one laying around?

Thanks for any help you can offer!

I'm trying to do some Christmas shopping, so I thought I'd try here!

I'm lookng for:

GM # 384679 CRANK Pulley, 3-groove, 7.175" o.d.

GM # 587260 PUMP Pulley, 3-groove, 6.345" o.d.

These are for a 1965 Olds 442 with 400ci engine.  ....I don't know if there were other applications.  ....(Are pulleys listed in Hollander's?)

Does anyone have either, or both pulleys, available for sale?

Thanks!

~~~~Bruce

...Not auto related, but someone here might know.

How is the flighting (spiral) formed on post-hole and/or ice augers?

Any guesses?

Thanks in advance!

This new-fangled technology has me scratching my head alot!  :oops:


My 1998 Chevy pu with 5.7 Vortec had the "check engine" light activate recently.  .....I used a code reader to retrieve the code for a misfire of #3 cylinder.  ....I cleared the code, and so far it has not re-appeared.

What I am confused about is, HOW does the computer know a cylinder has mis-fired, and WHICH cylinder mis-fired?  ....What sensors provide the info needed by the computer to detect the misfire, and pinpoint the offending cylinder?

I'm embarrassed to admit that I'm not up to date on late model technology, but I know some of you work on this stuff every day.

I tried to think these questions through, but I've failed to come up with a logical scenario.

Thanks in advance to anyone who will attempt to educate this dummy! :oops:  :oops:  :oops:

Some tire dealers, and service stations, are starting to recommend filling passenger car tires with nitrogen.

Ingersoll-Rand, who makes a system to separate nitrogen from compressed air, claims 40% better pressure retention, 30% longer tire life, and up to 6% increase in fuel economy, if tires are filled with nitrogen.  

These sound like claims which would be hard to substantiate!  ....Of course, the "up to 6% increase in fuel economy" could mean .001 mpg!

I know nitrogen has been used for many years to fill tires in aviation and race-car tires.  ....Now there is a move to promote it for street-use tires.

Snake oil?  ....Or, valid claims?

I'd like to hear your opinions.

I'm here to learn!

Crosley's recent alternator thread brings a question to mind.

My wife had a 1974 AMC Javelin, which she purchased new.
....After approx 1 year, the idiot light in the charging circuit came on.  

I tested the charging voltage and it was normal.  The battery never went dead.  ....We drove the car approx 4 years with the idiot light "on."

One day, the idiot light went off, so naturally I began to worry!    

Again, the charging voltage tested normal, and the battery never went dead.  ....We drove the car another year with the idiot light "off."

I have never been able to understand why the light would act the way that it did.

It is possible that the indicator lamp finally burnt out, and that would explain why it went "off," but why would the alternator put out a charge if the bulb was burnt-out?   ....If there was a resistor in parallel with the bulb, then the alternator would be energized, even if the bulb was dead.

So, my question is:

What would allow the idiot light to turn "on," without affecting the output of the alternator?

I have pondered this question many times over the years, and have yet to find an explanation.  ....I guess that's why it is called an IDIOT light!


Can someone please enLIGHTen me?

Thanks for any responses!

Whitey:

It's been a long time since we heard from you!  ....I just gotta' check up on our resident elder.

Hope all is well with you and that you are in good health, and still enjoying life!

Let us know how you're doing!

~~~~Bruce

While doing some reading, I have found two contradictory definitions of ported vacuum.

One defines ported vacuum as being tapped into the venturi.  .....This method will have no vacuum at idle, but the vacuum will increase with load and rpm.

The other school of thought defines ported vacuum as being taken from just above the throttle plate.  ....This method will have no vacuum at idle, but the vacuum will increase as the throttle blades open slightly exposing the port to manifold vacuum, but then diminishes (along with manifold vacuum) as the throttle blades open further.

Is this second method what is referred to as TIMED vacuum?

Do these differing definitions cause the opposing viewpoints in the on-going MANIFOLD vs.PORTED debate?

BTW, I noticed that Edelbrock describes their carbs as being equipped with ports for TIMED and MANIFOLD vacuum.   .....Which port is which on their carbs?

FWIW, Edelbrock states that most engines need 17-25 degrees of advance at IDLE!

I've got a Ford tractor steering wheel which is suffering from exposure to the elements.

The glossy surface of the wheel is long-gone, and now my hands get covered with black residue from the 51-year-old steering wheel.

I prefer NOT to apply the commonly used wrap of electrical tape, nor do I want a lace-on cover.

Will a coating of glossy paint adhere to the degrading surface, or must it be sanded first?  

Is there a more suitable coating that you can recommend?

The surface is not split or cracked, so no repairs need to be made.  .....I just want to stop the black "chalking" and slow degradation for another 20 years.

 
Thanks in advance for any help! :b-d:

....they must be cooking something up!

We haven't heard from Pep, Choco, Brootal, Carps, Ripper, Dolly, etc, in quite some time.  ....Peter R stuck his head up long enough to share a joke.

Either they're too busy having fun, or they're plotting.

What's up, guys?

This Public Service Announcement (aka SPAM) is to make you aware of a new product which some of you may find of interest.

A friend of mine has developed a new product which alters the shifting on some Mopar models.

If you're interested, check out:

http://www.duncan-motor-sports.com/prod01.htm

My apologies to you if you are offended by this shameless plug!

The June '04 issue of "Street Rodder" magazine has an article touting Teflon bushings to replace the brass/bronze kingpin bushings, and also the thrust bearings used between the axle and spindle.

I understand and accept the low-friction qualities of Teflon.

However, my own (non-automotive) experiences have proven that Teflon will "cold-flow" when put under compressive loads, if it is not contained.

When I saw the article, I thought "Uh, oh!"  ....My belief is that there are more-suitable plastics for this use.

However, there are MANY people MUCH smarter than me, and I would like to think this application has been correctly engineered.  

So, a good idea, or today's fad?

What are YOUR thoughts??

Tony, if you want to prevent more people from moving to AZ, quit taunting us with that time/temp of Gilbert!
.....At least, in the winter!

.....Showing it during the summer should discourage more than a few people!

Choco, I remember you asked a question about the threads on GM Manifold Air Temperature Sensors, but it was buried deep in a non-related thread.

I was unable to find your question until Brootal revived that thread this AM.

If you haven't already received the info you sought, here is some info.

GM # 25037334 MATS has 3/8"-18 thread and two terminals. ...It was used on 94-98 Chev & GMC trucks, 90-93 Geo, 94-95 Honda, 93-95 Isuzu.  .......NAPA # TS4031

GM # 96064749 MATS has M12 x 1.5 threads and two terminals.  ...It was used on 91-92 Chev & GMC trucks, 91-96 Geo, 96 Pontiac. ......NAPA #TS4030

GM # 25037225 MATS has 3/8"-18 thread and two terminals.  ..It was used on 88-92 Buick, 88-92 Chev pass, 88-93 Chev & GMC trucks, 88-92 Olds, 88-91 Pontiac.  ......NAPA # TS5102

There are three other MATS which were commonly used on GM products, but they are unthreaded.  They also have the two terminal connection.

This info is from a 1998 NAPA-Echlin catalog.

Edelbrock's Pro-Flo EFI system used a GM # 25036751 MATS, but I do not have any info on that part #.  ....It is threaded, but I am unable to say what size threads it has.

BTW, that 3/8"-18 thread is pipe thread.  .....It does not specify if it is NPT (tapered threads) or NPS (straight threads).

There are no resistance values given for these MATS.  ....Do you require a certain value, or is this compensated for in the programming?